98 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019 APRIL
HOWOTO Ds and big, fattojioM.sedaccrumbling fa nd sandy beaches —hitwsniosnColonial ma onary billboards, salsa a s. Now let expertluti.el fantasievatrcigars. Revoruoyinam a reality.llreadmeeththenkeaeyou’ve syou how to mwohsreybbClaire BooString fellow:walking past amural of the Cubanflag in Santiago98SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019APRIL 2019 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL99
Cubaith its cigar-smokingrebels, sparkling seas,vintage vehicles, potentmusic, and locals whosurvive on their witsand humour, Cuba willalmost certainly stealyour heart. But like somany seducers, this tropical island, shaded a Socialistred on the map, is complicated. It’s at once gorgeous andfalling apart; ridiculously rich in culture, but short onbasic goods and common conveniences. (Cuba’s not foryou if you need Instagram connection 24/7; or if you don’thandle train cancellations well; or if you come over shakywhen you can’t find a breakfast latte with soya milk.)The island’s a little longer than the UK and packs ina lot of encounters and experiences, so you’ll need twoweeks to do it justice. For us, that means seeing thehighlights and a bit more: the capital Havana; lushViñales Valley; Trinidad and Santiago cities; and thedistant east — jungly Oriente is Cuba’s best-kept secretand you won’t regret stretching your time. Anxious aboutbypassing urbane Santa Clara and coastal Cienfuegostowns? You’ll get more colonial grandeur and sexierbeaches on the route mapped out here.Delays and safety concerns make domestic flightsa bad idea and car hire is expensive and convoluted.Instead, do as most travellers do and take cross-countrycoaches or hire a car and driver. Pack patience, flexibility,your sense of humour and your glad rags. Cuba’sinfectious magic will knock you sideways before youeven sip a Mojito. From cutting-edge art and hipswivelling music to wild beaches, colonial hotspotsand brilliant B&Bs, here’s how to pack it all in.100SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019Precious metal:above, sculptureof Che Guevara onHavana’s RevolutionSquare; right, classiccar on the historicPaseo de MartíEASY BO O K IN GWhen it comes toaccommodation,you can bespontaneous —just book yourfirst few nights toget started. B&Bs,indicated by anupside-downblue anchor imageon front doors,abound on theisland. Go aheadand knock. CubaJunky’s offlineapp assists(cuba-junky.com).Days 1-3Hot-right-now HavanaHavana is utterly beautiful. Not quite the starlet she oncewas, perhaps, but her 500-year-old bone structure is stillthere, in primped-up plazas and swanky mansions. Thecity is Cuba’s political and cultural capital and, moreprosaically, has the biggest airport for arrivals. Mostflights touch down in time for dinner and cocktails, andin the land of rum and sugar, you’d be nuts not to takeadvantage. From the airport, Havana is 40 minutes bytaxi ( 20) via a flipbook of socialist billboards. Few placeson Earth offer stays in such splendour for such great value— think Spanish colonial romance meets Art Deco (forhotels, see page 109). Havana is a city on the up, and you’llfind its coolest creative types on the rooftop at El delFrente (O’Reilly 303). Come and dine alfresco, then slipinto speakeasy-feel Cero Habana (Aguiar 209). Prefer Favourite fiveFood spotsLong gone are the days whenration-book food fuelledCuba. New business ruleshave revolutionised dining,with smart tables, farm foodand stylish cafes. You’llfind Cuba’s tastiest foodin private restaurants,known as paladares Otra Manera, Havana: Thisglam converted ’50s home isthe capital’s best restaurant,serving fresh seafood plattersaccompanied by an expert winelist (00 53 7203 8315, otramaneralahabana.com; mains about 10). Restaurant Cuajaní, Viñales:Outstanding fresh tomatoes,goat’s cheese salads, andpumpkin and ginger risotto— the finest food south ofHavana, in a pretty setting(Carretera El Moncada km 2.2,Dos Hermanas; 00 53 58828925; mains about 9). La Cocina de Ortíz, Baracoa:Ineldis Ortíz cooks exquisitelyfresh Baracoa food: red tuna withmango sauce; tender wreckfishin coconut sauce; and Baracoachocolate and raisin brownies(Rafael Trejo 15; mains about 8). Baracoando, Baracoa: There’sno better vegan and vegetarianjoint on the island than AristidesSmith’s hurricane-wrecked home(Flor Crombet 9; 00 53 2164 4008;set vegetarian platters 6). Grados, Havana: Chef RaulitoBazuka has revived forgottenisland recipes, such as lambmarinated in Pru, an easternCuban herbal brew (Calle E 562,between 23 & 25; 00 53 78337882; mains about 11; pictured).APRIL 2019 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL101
CubaValley high: Trinidadand the Valle de losIngenios. Opposite,clockwise from topleft, musician inSantiago; Havana’sFábrica de ArteCubano club; Trinidadstreet scene; Viñalestobacco fields;Mojitos at El delFrente bar; fishingoff Havana’s MalecónWA R NINGExpect to meetjineteros: hustlerstrying to make anextra buck oncars, hotels andcigars. They’reharmless, and ‘No,gracias’ should bedeterrent enough.Cubans don’tmess with touristsbecause thepunishmentsare severe.102somewhere more established? Anyone with a guidebookwill know about Ernest Hemingway’s favourite bars.By all means take a stool at his Daiquiri spot, El Floridita(Obispo 557), and drink in the long, classy bar andlive music along with your 4.50 cocktail. But avoidLa Bodeguita del Medio (Empedrado 207), which doesthe city’s worst Mojito.The plundered loot of Spain’s Latin American empirewas funnelled through Havana for more than 200 years,via the so-called treasure fleets. And the silver cascadingthrough the Atlantic-facing city needed protection — withforts mostly built by African slaves — to defy those piratesof the Caribbean. Havana’s wealth was later bolsteredby sugar exports, and profits were invested in handsomebricks and mortar. Now those Old Havana streets aremade for walking, between Unesco-protected Baroquechurches, bougainvillea-draped portals, lofty mansions,muscular fortresses and kerbside cafes. The four mainplazas — Catedral, Armas, Vieja and San Francisco — arehighlights. Devote time to the plush presidential-palaceturned-Museum of the Revolution (Refugio 1; 6), whichcharts Cuba’s history of rebellion. In the Museum of FineArts, opposite (www.bellasartes.co.cu; 4), take a guidedtour ( 2.50) of the Cuban collection (make for theavant-garde and contemporary art floors). Artsy typesSUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019can go further with a curator-guide (Sussette Martínez;sussem@gmail.com; from 30pp per half day), visitingartists’ home-studios: maybe see a Cadillac convertedinto a submarine, or a Che Guevara ‘Turin’ shroud.Wherever you’re going, grab a rickshaw-style bicycletaxi for speed (from 3). Havana’s almendrón taxi system— classic cars running fixed routes — has disintegratedsomewhat. Now, you’ll pay 4.50- 7.50 for taxis forjourneys of up to 4km. The hop-on-hop-off circulatingred tourist bus ( 7.50) is for people with plenty of time.Shimmy along for matinee rumba at tight, sweaty anduntouristy El Jelengue de Areito (San Miguel 410; 3)in Centro Habana, a dilapidated residential zone. Afterdinner, look out for the green light bulb on Calle 11marking under-the-radar La Casa de la Bombilla Verde, tohear live nueva trova music (en-gb.facebook.com/lacasadelabombillaverde). Your next address is the city’s Fábricade Arte Cubano (www.fac.cu; 1.50) for challengingphotography, singer-songwriters, avant-garde dance andthe chance to mingle with Cuban entrepreneurs amidthree bars, a restaurant and cigar lounge. Do this lot andyou’ll have captured Cuba’s political, social and culturalzeitgeist. You can sleep when you get home.Take the strain off your feet on your last day inHavana and make your way through Centro by bicycle-taxi for a window onto street life — having first boughta cigar factory ticket, available from any hotel ( 7.50). TheH Upmann Factory tour reveals one of the world’s mostaromatic and elaborate crafts (San Carlos & Peñalver;mornings only, Mon-Fri). Buy cigars from official‘Habanos’ stores only (on the street, you might get fakesmade of dried banana). There is a Habanos branch sellingsmokes and rum around the corner, so pick up a RonSantiago, aged 11 or 12 years, while you’re there.If cigars aren’t your bag, try a farm-to-table cookingclass at organic paradise Finca Tungasuk (tungasuk.com; 30pp) in buried-in-the-bushes Caimito, 40 minutesfrom Havana. Or make like Rihanna in Havana and hirea Cadillac with driver (malecon663.com; from 23/hr).Explore the two castles defending the Bay of Havana,then motor to the leafy, artsy El Vedado district, hometo wedding-cake mansions, top paladares (privaterestaurants), bars and music venues. After snapping themonumental Plaza de la Revolución, step into ChristopherColumbus Cemetery ( 4) for the largest communion ofmarble angels in Latin America (see a husband’s devotionembodied in bronze, stone and Lalique glass at CatalinaLasa’s tomb). In the golden hour before sunset, cruise upand down Havana’s seaside boulevard, the Malecón, withits hymn to fabulous, colourful architectural eclecticism. Favourite fiveMusic venuesThe bedrock of the island is itsseductive sounds: from jazz, timba(pimped up salsa), rumba andpoliticised nueva trova, to bodyshaking reggaeton, with its vulgarlyrics, and Afro-Cuban son music. Thebest places are in Havana, but there’stop talent in Santiago, too. Matinees runfrom about 5pm; late-night acts startat 11pm. Prices range from 1 to 7.50. Diablo Tun Tun, Havana: Nueva trovasinger-songwriter Ray Fernándezbrings down the house during hisThursday matinee (Casa de la Músicade Miramar, Calle 20, corner of 35). La Zorra y el Cuervo, Havana:A Brit-style red phone-box door leadsto this intimate basement jazz club(Calles 23 & O, Vedado; pictured). Casa de la Trova, Santiago de Cuba:Pitch up for old-time son musiciansplaying matinees; bands get livelierin the evenings (Heredia 208). Club 1830, Havana: For hot salsabands, dance to the door of thisalfresco seaside club (Malecón & 22). Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht, Havana:A smokin’ hot basement haunt.Dedicate Wednesday nights toRobertico Carcassés and fusionband Interactivo (Calles 13 & I).APRIL 2019 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL103
CubaClear winner: idyllicMaguana Beach,north of BaracoaToast your time in Havana with a Daiquiri at the roofbar of the Kempinski hotel (kempinski.com); you’ll have agreat view of curlicued motifs on theatres and museums.Partygoers should end the night dancing salsa in front ofa live band at alfresco Club 1830 (see page 103). In the OldTown, music-crawl the bars of Calle Obispo: La Lluviade Oro is a winner for its old-time looks and live bands.Lured by the late-night billings at the city’s two Casa dela Música clubs? Be warned, they can get a bit raunchy.Days 4-5Verdant ViñalesRise early for Víazul’s 9am coach to Viñales, 180kmwest of Havana. You’ll want as much time as transportallows in the town and its lush valley (for coach andaccommodation details, see page 108). Unesco-protectedViñales Valley is a vision of velvet-green mountains —mogotes — rising from palms, tobacco plants and ruddyred soil tilled by oxen and plough. Besides the country air,its greatest draws are the organic food, Mojitos at sunset,horse-riding and rock-climbing. And you’ll see much104SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019better valley sights than those tipped in the guidebookson a walk with a guide from the Visitors’ Centre (close toHotel Los Jazmines; 8.30am-5pm; 8pp). Otherwise, strollaround a private mogote with farmer Omar from CasaOmar y Mayra (casaomarymayra@gmail.com; 8pp), orask your B&B to help you hire horses for a guided ride tothe unspoilt Valley of Silence (from 4/hr). In town, Patiodel Decimista, on the main street, regularly hosts theband Sol del Valle — its leader plays the recorder throughhis nose. Swap valley sunsets the next day for tangerinecoloured starfish at Cayo Jutías, a sparkling white beachthat’s an easy day-trip with one of the travel agencies onthe small main strip ( 16). Or hire a taxi to take you to thetobacco farm of Hector Luis Prieto. He does a superb tourand creole lunch for a bargain 8pp (hectorfinca.com).The insatiable could squeeze in both by private taxi.Days 6-7Trinidad: colonial splendourThere’s no quick fix to reach Trinidad, but it’s a must-visitfor its pistachio- and cinnamon-coloured homes, dreamypalaces, sexy salsa, and coppery horses ridden by mangón(very good-looking) cowboys trotting through town.Víazul’s daily bus from Viñales takes nine-and-a-halfhours (or rent a car; see page 108). But if you’re preparedfor a little organised chaos, you can keep it to six or sevenhours by taking collective taxis. Vintage vehicles pick uppassengers from Viñales B&Bs and drive them to ahighway restaurant; you could then be shifted to anothervehicle and redirected to Trinidad. It sounds like a jumbledplan, but go with it — you’ll never be stranded in Cuba.Trinidad was central to Cuba’s 19th-century sugarboom, and its wealthy sugar barons enshrined egos instone: palaces embellished with all the finest furniture,frescoes and chandeliers money could buy. You can sleepamid the grandeur at some of the small city’s finest homes(see page 109). The next day, gain full immersion by justwandering. A cluster of music venues, all within a cocktailstick’s throw of each other, makes flirting with each onea cinch. Top dazzler is Casa de la Trova (Echerri 29; 1),a traditional colonial home with live bands and a patio fordancing. If you know the moves, wait at the edge for apartner to approach. If you’re a learner, standby, too. It’sthe only way to improve and Cubans are accommodating.Morning light spills over Trinidad in a golden sheen.Photographer Julio Muñoz has been capturing lifethere for years. His easy manner and contacts make hisstreet-photography tour a nuanced introduction beyondthe city’s Unesco-protected chocolate-box facade (photo.trinidadphoto.com; 20). Later, climb the observationtower at the Cantero Palace history museum (Desengaño423; 1.50), where a central fountain once sprinkled eaude cologne for the ladies and gin for society gents. Lookout for the faces of Trinidad’s elderly folk exquisitelycarved into abandoned door pieces at the gallery ofLázaro Niebla Castro (Real 11).Days 8-10Sights and salsa in SantiagoSantiago is steeped in history, humidity and a rockingmusic scene. With African, Haitian and Jamaican roots,its vibe is more Caribbean than Havana’s. To get therefrom Trinidad, don’t spend a day on Víazul’s direct route SAFE T YCuba is very safe.True, femalesof all ages(even thoseaccompanied bymen) will receivea deluge ofattention viapiropos (chat-uplines). But it’s allbenign, mostlycalled outin passingand neverthreatening. Todeflect attention,don’t counter ormake eye contact.APRIL 2019 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL105
Cuba(12hr 50min); instead take a 30- 35 taxi to SanctiSpíritus (about one hour north) and catch the 3.10pm busor an overnighter (9.10pm and 1.50am; 10hr 20min).Don’t pack all the sights into your first day — plan asiesta, breaks on the Casa Granda hotel terrace (iberostar.com) or coffee at museum cafe Casa Dranguet (facebook.com/pg/CasaDranguet). Explore highlights of the500-year-old historic core on foot: the first governor’smansion ( 1.50) and the Bacardí museum ( 1.50),then walk to the Moncada Museum charting FidelCastro’s rise to power ( 1.50).Start the night at funky alfresco chess cafe, CaféAjedrez (Felix Peña & Enramada), with its nightly livebands, followed by evening ensembles at Casa de la Trova(Heredia 208), and a storming end-of-night salsa shiver atBar Claqueta (Félix Peña, between San Basilio & Heredia),close to the cathedral. Next day, swap city for country andhire a car and driver through Out of the Box (outofthebox.zone; from 36pp) or your B&B. Plan to take in gloriousAvenida Manduley mansions in the Vista Alegre district,Fidel Castro’s tomb at magnificent marble Santa IfigeniaCemetery ( 2.50), and impressive Unesco-protected ElMorro Castle ( 4) at the mouth of Santiago Bay. Timeyour visit for the sunset cannon-firing ceremony. Fancycarnival? Come in July, prepared for stifling temperatures.Pep up the packageSo you’ve booked a resort holiday?We know the best day-trips youcan take, and how to line them up From Varadero: There’s reallynada to see in Varadero’s waters,which is why you should take a diveor snorkel trip to the south coast’sBay of Pigs (below, top), where easyimmersions reveal a huge coral walland wrecks of US craft from the 1961invasion. It’s easiest to sort via yourhotel; all offer these excursions. From Cayo Santa María: Head topretty, colonial Remedios (whichhosts a Christmas Eve fireworkfestival) and Santa Clara, hometo Che Guevara’s tomb and otherChe sites; transport is complicated,so book the hotel tour. From Gardens of the King: Stayput, and learn to kitesurf at CayoGuillermo (below, bottom). The mostexperienced instructors work forhavanakiteboarding.com, notbookable through hotels. Lessonsstart at 60/hr; kit rental from 45. From Guardalavaca, north ofHolguín: Chirpy Gibara, a weatheredseaside town 50km west, hides cavesfor walking and diving. Experienceddiver Arturo Rojas offers two divesfrom 85pp, including equipment;transport extra (facebook.com/pg/AquaCuba; acave61@nauta.cu).Days 11-14Baracoa: beautiful beachesSHORTCUTIt’s not easy to findcultural listings,but thesewill help:suenacubano.com s.com/13599/havana-vipnightlife-app.Sitting pretty:clockwise from topleft, Havana localson Plaza de laCatedral; muralon Santiago deCuba’s RevolutionSquare; roof terraceof the Kempinskihotel, Havana;Viñales Valley106SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL APRIL 2019Baracoa is spellbinding. Some of the world’s smallestspecies of bird, frog and bat live here, as does the rainbowcoloured hyper-local natural beauty the polymita snail.These small wonders inhabit the coconut palms, cocoatrees, coffee bushes and pine forests of this Atlanticregion. When Christopher Columbus first glimpsed thewild beaches and green slopes in 1492, he wrote there was‘so much beauty that I can find no words to describe it’.A Víazul bus from Santiago at 7.40am can get you tothis tropical enclave in time for lunch. Climb the hill toHotel El Castillo for lush views of anvil-flat mountain ElYunque, and map out the following days’ plans. For wildbeach exploration, head south, going off-piste on hiredbikes (baracoabikerental.com; 8) or in a cab ( 20 return).At Manglito Beach, sink into an Adirondack chair witha beer, and order fresh seafood from Tato’s food shack(mains about 6). If you’ve swerved the Mojito hangoverfrom dancing salsa at Baracoa’s small Casa de la Trova(Maceo 149), hike up through palms the next day to ElYunque’s summit ( 13 with Ecotur at Hostal 1511, CiroFrías 26). The views of the nibbled Atlantic coastline — ajade-green forest hemline against a peacock-blue sea — areawesome. After that you’ll want relaxation. You can find itat Maguana, the cutest beach corner in Cuba, a rugged22km north of Baracoa. Book your last night or two atCasa Carlos (see page 109), to share a secluded cove withone other house, and splash about in aquamarine sea. Donothing more than order a seafood feast from fishermanowner Carlos and plot your next holiday in Cuba.Then grit your teeth, book a cab to Baracoa’s bus station( 20), and catch the 1pm coach all the way back to Havana(17hr 30min). (That’s unless you book an open-jaw flighthome with Thomas Cook; it departs from Holguín —maybe seven hours’ drive from here; see overleaf.) If yousqueezed in a dip in the area’s glassy River of Honey,legend says you’ll return to Baracoa. You know you will. APRIL 2019 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL107
CubaGet me thereGo independentVirgin Atlantic flies to Havana fromGatwick from 677. Thomas CookAirlines flies from Manchester toVaradero from 550 return; and fromGatwick and Manchester to Holguín(near Gibara) from 430, and to CayoCoco (near Cayo Guillermo) from 400. It often work
somewhere more established? Anyone with a guidebook will know about Ernest Hemingway’s favourite bars. By all means take a stool at his Daiquiri spot, El Floridita (Obispo 557), and drink in the long, classy bar and live music along with your 4.50 cocktail. But avoid La Bodeguita del Medio (Empedrado 2
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Guidance - Travel Plan Contents 1. Executive Summary 2. Introduction of Travel Plan 3. Travel Plan Administration 4. Existing Travel Patterns 5. Proposed Travel Patterns 6. Measures 7. Targets 8. Monitoring and Review 9. Action Plan (example) Appendix - Travel Plan Appendices (examples) A Location of Site(s) B Site Plan C Travel Policy
ROSS User Guide Travel Plan ‐ creating and editing travel plans 2version 2.16.4 January 13, 2016. Creating a travel plan. This section explains how to create a travel plan and how to add travel plan legs to it. You do not need an incident to create a travel plan. Seeravel "T ‐ setting up resource travel."
Worship Schedule Sunday June 6th 10:30 am Pastor Tom Skrenes Sunday June 13th 10:30 am Lisa Bouche, LLM Sunday June 20th 10:30 am Lisa Bouche, LLM Sunday June 27th 10:30 am Pastor Dave VanKley Sunday July 4th 10:30 am TBA Sunday July 11th 10:30 am TBA Sunday July 18th 10:30 am TBA Sunday July 25th 10:30 am TBA Worship is open to those who feel safe attending.
Sunday School for Youth 9:15 am Rotation for teachers each month: 1st Sunday Debbie Wood 2nd Sunday Sharon Townsend 3rd Sunday Ruth Akins 4th Sunday Heather Carter Also, the nursery will be open for infants through elementary school age during worship. Join Adult Sunday School in the Conference Room each Sunday morning at 9:15 am.
