Inkle WeavIng - Schacht Spindle Company

Inkle Weavingby Naomi Binsfeld1067 49 36 042 5 92 440 76 81 3190 7 0 36Find out more at schachtspindle.comSchacht Spindle Company 6101 Ben Place Boulder, CO 80301p. 303.442.3212 800.228.2553 f. 303.447.927349 24 0 700 42 Schacht59 49 2011Spindle Company, Inc.02.11

Inkle WeavingbyNaomi BinsfeldLoom AssemblyInsert the bolt end of the tension peg (A) through the slot in the side of theinkle loom. Place a washer on the threaded shaft and screw on the black knob.tension pegFigure 1 - Inkle LoomWeaving TermsHeading: a heavy weft, not part of the main weaving, worked at eachend of the band and removed when the weaving is complete.Heddles: string loops that are used to control the warp threads.Pattern Draft: a graphic description of the placement of the differentcolors of warp yarns used for the warp pattern.Pick-up Stick: a smooth stick with a pointed end, also called a “shed”stick.Shed: the space through which the shuttle passes.Stick Shuttle: a flat stick that carries the weft, notched at both ends.A “belt” shuttle has one beveled edge which helps pack the wefttightly together.Warp: (noun) the lengthwise threads that are stretched on the loomand lifted or lowered for weaving; (verb) the process of puttingwarp thread on the loom for weaving.Weft: the crosswise threads that are woven through the warp yarns.Weaving YarnsThe best yarns for weaving are smooth, strong and relatively inelastic. Perlecotton (also known as mercerized cotton) in size 3/2 or size 5/2, embroideryfloss, cotton rug warp, linen or firmly twisted wools are all suitable.–2–

with heddle: d d x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x d d (20 ends)no heddle:d d x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x d d(19 ends)heddles required 20total ends 39total dark ends (d) 8total light ends (x) 31figure 2 - Sample DraftInkle Weaving Pattern DraftBefore you begin to warp yourloom, choose a weaving draft to follow. In these instuctions we have usedthe draft shown in figure 2. There areadditional drafts on the last page ofthese instructions.The top row of the draft showsthe warp threads that will be strungthrough heddles. The bottom rowshows the warp threads which willnot pass through heddles. Read thepattern starting with the top rowat the left, as follows: warp the firstthread in the top row, then the firstthread in the bottom row. Next warpthe second thread in the top row andthe second thread in the bottom row.Follow the draft, alternating from thetop to the bottom until the pattern iscomplete.The single heddle is made by tyingthe heddle string around pegs 1 and5 (figure 1). When using this heddleyou must place the heddles on thewarp threads as you warp the loom(figure 3).The double heddle is made bytying the string around pegs B, 1,and 5. This heddle can be attachedduring the warping process, or afterpart or all of the warp is on the loom(figure 4).figure 3 - Single HeddleMaking the HeddlesYou must make a heddle for eachof the warp ends listed on the top rowof the weaving draft. You will need 20heddles for the sample pattern draft.Heddles are reusable and should bemade of a sturdy cotton string such ascotton rug warp or seine twine. Thereare two types of heddles, “single” and“double,” either of which can be usedon this loom.–3–figure 4 - Double Heddle

Warping the LoomPlace the loom on a table with thepegs facing you. Move the tensionpeg A to the middle of the slot (figure6).Warp using the double heddles:1. Tie the end of the dark yarnaround peg A with a slip knot (figure5).figure 5 - Slip Knot2. To wind the first warp thread, passthe warp thread over pegs B and C,and then down to 4 and back to peg A(figure 6).3. Fold the double heddle over thefirst warp thread (working just infront of peg B), and loop both ends ofthe heddle onto peg 5 (figure 4).4. The 2nd warp thread is woundwithout a heddle, and goes under pegB, over peg C and then around peg 4and back to A (figure 6).ORCut the dark warp thread approximately 2" beyond peg A and tie thisend to the free end of the next colorrequired by the draft (light, for thesample draft).Check that the knotted ends goaround the outside of peg A, and becareful not to wind either end all theway around peg A. Keep the tensioneven and continue to warp accordingto steps 1-4, above, tying each newcolor to the previous color.Warp using the single heddles:1. Thread all of the heddles you willneed for your pattern onto each ofthe two warp yarns (4 heddles forthe dark yarn, and 16 heddles for thelight) before beginning to warp. Justslip the free end of the warp yarnthrough the heddles.2. Tie the free end of the dark yarnto peg A with a slip knot (figure 5).3. To wind the first warp thread, slipthe first heddle onto peg 5 (figure 3)and then pass the warp thread overpegs B and C, and then down to peg 4and back to peg A (figure 6).4. The 2nd warp thread is woundRepeat these four steps until youhave finished with the dark color.(Wind a total of 4 dark warp threads,if you are following the sample pattern.)without a heddle, and goes under pegB, over peg C, around peg 4 and backto A (figure 6).When all of the warp strings havebeen wound onto the loom, untie thebeginning slip knot and tie the first(dark) thread to the end of the last(dark) thread. Be sure the knottedthreads pass around the outside ofpeg A. Tighten the tension of theentire warp by loosening peg A andmoving it toward the front of theloom. Tighten peg A firmly in place.Preparing the WeftInkle weaving is a “warp-faced”weave, which means you will see the–4–

first warpheddlesecond warpfigure 6 - Warping the Loomweft only at the edges of the wovenband. If you use the same color forthe weft that you used for the outerwarp ends, the weft will run invisibly along the outside. If you use acontrasting color weft, it will show assmall loops on the edge of the band.Use a yarn of the same size and typeas the warp, or use a thicker yarn ifyou prefer a heavier woven band. Youcan double your warp yarn to create athicker weft.Wind a ShuttleWind your weft yarn in a figure 8onto a stick shuttle or a belt shuttle.A belt shuttle has one tapered edgewhich makes it easier to beat yourweft into place. If you are using a beltshuttle, wind your weft yarn onto thefatter side of the belt shuttle, leavingthe tapered edge free.In addition to your weft yarn, youwill need a 6" length of thick stringor yarn, or a few small sticks (suchas craft sticks, broomstraws, etc.) toweave a heading. You can wind thisheading weft onto your shuttle on topof the regular weft.You are now ready to weave!Beginning to WeaveThe inkle loom is capable of creating two sheds, or openings, betweenthe warp ends. To weave you will passthe weft yarn through first one andthen the other of these two sheds.You will first make a heading to practice making the sheds and to prepareyour warp for weaving the actual inkleband.Making a HeadingMake the first shed by placing yourhand behind the heddles and pushingdown firmly on the warp ends whichare not through the heddles (theseare the “moving threads”) until anopening is created below the warpends which are in the heddles (the“stationary threads”) and in front ofthe heddles. Insert one end of thethick thread or one stick. Tighten theweaving by forcing the weft yarn orstick as far forward as possible. Thenform the second shed by pushing upon the moving warp threads until aspace is created above the stationarywarp ends and in front of the heddles.Insert the thick thread or a secondstick. Work two more rows of headingin this manner. Cut the heading yarn,leaving a short tail.–5–

Weaving the Inkle BandTo weave the first row, push downthe moving threads to create yourfirst shed, and pass the shuttle withyour main weft yarn halfway throughso that it extends on both sides ofthe warp. (You can let go of the shedbecause the shuttle is keeping theshed open.) Use both hands to pullthe shuttle firmly toward you. Now,pull the shuttle the rest of the waythrough the warp, leaving a short (2")tail of weft on the starting side.To weave the second row, pull upthe moving threads. Tuck the tailof weft from the first row into theshed, then insert the shuttle halfwaythrough the warp and use both handsto pull firmly toward you. This will“beat” in the previous row and the tailof weft and create a neat opening forthe current row. Bring your shuttlethrough and pull the weft firmly tothe edge of the inkle band. The warpends should be pulled closely together so as to cover the weft. The weftshould turn from one row to the nextwithout loops.Continue to weave in this manner,alternating the two sheds, beatingwith the shuttle, and passing the weftthrough the shed.Advancing the WarpAfter a few inches of weaving youwill run out of space to weave. Nowyou are ready to advance the warp.Loosen the tension peg and firmlygrasp the warp in two places. Pull thewoven band toward you. Be carefulto move all the threads the same distance in order to avoid a shift in thewarp. Re-adjust the tension peg andresume weaving.Joining a New WeftTo make a seamless join when yourun out of weft on the shuttle, use the“clasped weft” technique. Make aloop with the end of the new weft. Layin the next shed with the loop sticking out the same side as the shortweft from the previous shed. Makesure that both ends of the loop extendbeyond the band on the other side.Thread the old weft through the loopso that you have formed interlockingloops. Pull on both ends until the joinis hidden inside the band. Resumeweaving with the new weft. Trim offthe excess ends when the band isfinished.Finishing the Inkle BandWhen the band is as long as youwant or when there is no more roomto advance the warp, use a small pieceof warp thread to create an invisiblefinish, as follows: weave a loop of theextra warp thread into the next to lastshed, so that the two ends of the loopare on the same side as the shuttle,and the loop is on the opposite sidefrom the shuttle. Weave the last shed,and cut the end leaving a 6" tail. Thenweave a few extra rows of heading tohold the last few rows of your bandin place. Remove the band from theloom by cutting through the warp inthe center of the unwoven section.Tuck the 6" tail of weft yarn into theloop you created in the next-to-lastshed, pull the tail into the belt andtrim the loose ends. To secure the tailends of your warp, you can sew firmlyacross the last row of weft, by handor by machine, and then remove theheading. Another finishing methodis to remove the heading yarns at–6–

either end and then tie, braid, or twistgroups of warp together.Weaving VariationsLonger bands can be made bywinding your warp back and forthon the pegs between 1 and 4. Forexample the longest warp would windaround C, 1, 2, 3, and 4. The chartbelow lists the possible warp pathsand their lengths. Note: all threads ina warp must follow the same path upto and around peg C, and return frompeg 4 to peg A.The width of a band is determined by the number and size ofthe warp threads used. A 1" bandwould require approximately 50 warpthreads in the yarns recommended inthese instructions. A finished width of4 inches is the maximum which canbe woven on this loom.Warp LengthYou can choose the length of yourwarp by selecting one of the warppaths described in the table below.Start at Peg A and proceed to Peg C,then from peg C go to the next pegon the list for the warp length youwant. For example, the warp shown infigure 6 follows the path for a 5-yardwarp (A-C-4-5). PegA-C-1-2-3-4-5A-C-1-4-5A-C-4-5Warp Length8½ feet6½ feet5 feet–7–