UPDATED APRIL 2019 - SDSU Extension SDSU Extension
gardensS O U T H DA KOTA S TAT E UN I V ER S I T Y AGRONOMY, HORTICULTURE & PLANT SCIENCE DEPARTMENTU P DAT E D A P R I L 2 019Strawberries in South DakotaRhoda Burrows Professor & SDSU Extension Horticulture SpecialistAnne Fennell SDSU ProfessorStrawberries can be grown in most areas of SouthDakota as they are adapted to a wide range of soil andclimatic conditions. The fruit is tasty and nutritious,being particularly high in vitamin C and severalantioxidants. Strawberries are very productive plantsfor the space they occupy. A planting of 25 Junebearing strawberries will fill a 50 foot matted row andshould produce 25-30 quarts of fruit. Everbearingplants grown in a raised bed can produce one-half toone quart of berries per plant.one crop of fruit in the early summer between Juneand mid-July, depending on the variety. They shouldnot be allowed to fruit the year of planting, so thattheir energy is put into building the plant for futureproduction. ‘Honeoye,’ ‘Sparkle,’ and ‘Jewel’ arepopular Junebearing strawberry varieties grown inSouth DakotaEverbearing strawberries are also grown in SouthDakota. They tend to produce most heavily in thespring and less in the fall. Everbearing strawberriesdo not produce as many runners as Junebearingstrawberries. ‘Fort Laramie’ and ‘Ogallala’ are twopopular everbearing strawberry varieties. These are notusually used in commercial production.The alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca) is a smallwhite- or red-fruited form of everbearing strawberry.The plants are low yielding and do not runner heavilybut produce small soft fruit with intense flavor.Alpine strawberries are most frequently used as anornamental or novelty item, often grown in hangingbaskets or gardens since they tolerate light shade.David Hansen, University of MinnesotaTypes of StrawberriesThere are three basic types of strawberries:Junebearing, Everbearing, and Day-neutralstrawberries; all are types of Fragaria x ananassa.Junebearing strawberries are the most commontype of strawberry grown in South Dakota. Thesestrawberries initiate runners to form new plants duringthe long days of midsummer, and initiate flowerbuds only under the short days of fall. The flowerbuds then go dormant until the following year. As thename suggests, Junebearing strawberries produceDay-neutral strawberries are a newer type ofeverbearing strawberry that fruit from June throughthe first frost; they also seldom form runners, andare often grown as annuals as they can be harvestedthe year of planting. The day-neutrals form flowerbuds and fruit continuously, whereas the everbearingstrawberries generally have two peak periods ofproduction. However, day-neutral strawberries do notform flower buds at temperatures above 85 F. Theyare recommended only where mulching, shading,or sprinkler irrigation can be used to provide a coolmidsummer environment to promote continuousflowering. ‘Tribute’ and ‘Tristar’ are two examples ofday-neutral strawberries.Page 1 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Variety SelectionNew varieties are introduced every year, but not all aresuited to this region. Plant new varieties on a small scaleto test their performance before establishing a largeplanting. Consider harvest season, disease resistance,size, color, firmness, flavor and freezing/processingcharacteristics when selecting cultivars (see Table 1).Order plants early (midwinter), from a reputable nurseryto get high-quality, virus-free plants of the desiredquality. Have orders delivered between April 15 andMay 1 for spring planting in South Dakota. The numberof plants needed depends on the planting design (seespacing recommendations in the section on establishingstrawberries).To avoid disease problems, always obtain healthy,virus-free plants from a reliable nursery rather thantransplanting from an established bed.Growing SiteStrawberries require a site that has full sun at least8 to 10 hrs per day. They can be grown on a varietyof soil types, provided the soil is well drained andproperly prepared. Avoid areas where water stands ordrains very slowly; waterlogged soils can kill the rootsthrough oxygen deprivation and root rot diseases. Toavoid problems in heavy soils, use raised beds (at least6- to 8-inches high) or plant on a 2-3% slope. Even onwell-drained soils, avoid low-lying sites because coldair will move to these sites, creating a potential for frostdamage.A well-drained sandy loam with pH 5.0 – 7.0 is optimal.Strawberries are sensitive to high salt content in the soil;it should not exceed 2.5 mmho/cm. Soil salt content andpH can be easily determined through a soil test (contactyour regional extension office for more information onsoil testing).If necessary, soil pH may be lowered by incorporatingelemental sulfur to a depth of 6 to 8 inches prior toplanting. An application of 5-10 lbs elemental sulfur per100 square feet will lower the pH from 7.5 to 6.5. Ifyour soil pH is higher than 7.5, additional sulfur will beneeded to neutralize the “free lime” that is in the soilbefore the pH can be reduced. On some soils with highcarbonate levels, sulfur will not be effective; check withyour soil testing laboratory.Plant strawberries near a source of good quality waterfor irrigation. Do not use water with a high sodium orsalt content. High salinity and high pH are problems inmany parts of South Dakota that can cause failure of astrawberry planting. Do not use artesian water or anyother water source unless you know it is of good qualitywith less than 700-900 ppm salts. Irrigation watercan be tested for salinity; contact your regional SDSUExtension office for water sample collecting and testinginformation.Avoid sites that have had potatoes, tomatoes,eggplants, peppers, raspberries or strawberries growingon them within the last 3 years. These plants canhost Verticillium wilt, which can readily spread to thestrawberries.Before Planting: Site PreparationGood site preparation is the key to developing a longterm, high-yielding strawberry planting. If possible,begin preparing the site a year before planting. Whitegrubs and perennial weeds are frequently a problemon sites that have been in sod or pasture; it is easierto control them before planting. Clean cultivation, orplanting a crop in which weeds can be controlled usingchemical herbicides or by cultivation, can help decreaseweeds before planting strawberries. Be sure to consultherbicide labels before any application to avoid potentialcarry-over problems in the new strawberry planting.Another option is a green manure crop such assudangrass, oats, or rye, which can help increase thesoil organic matter to the higher levels preferred bystrawberries. Incorporation of green-manure crops orof well-rotted manure will also improve soil texture andadd nitrogen. Manure may be used (20 tons/acre, or 4bushels/100 square feet), or fertilizer (Table 2). Test soilpH and fertility levels and incorporate phosphorus andpotassium, if needed, before planting.PlantingEarly spring is the best time to plant strawberries.Plant sets as soon as possible after they arrive. If wetsoil or low temperatures prevent immediate planting,store the plants in a cool, moist place, preferably at,but not below, 33ºF. The crisper compartment ofyour refrigerator can be used for short-term storageof strawberry plants if the roots are kept barely moist,but don’t place them next to apples, which can emitdamaging ethylene. Bare root plants will not toleratetemperatures of 22ºF or below in the field. However,Page 2 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Table 1. Characteristics of some commonly grown strawberries for this region. Diseases: Vert Verticillium,Phytoph Phytophthora crown/root rots, RedStele Red Stele Crown Rot, Foliar includes leaf spot, leaf blotch,leaf scorch. VS Very susceptible. S Susceptible, T Tolerant, R ResistantCultivarHardinessSeasonFruit sizeTextureFlavorDiseaseCommentsEarly edStele-T/R;Foliar-SMaintains fruit size; Light red skinand RRedStele-RFoliar-RFruit size decreases over seasonHoneoyeExcellentEarly toMidMedMediumGoodVert-S;RedStele-S;Phytoph SHigh yield; Not for heavy soilsItascaVery goodEarlyMed-LMod yMedMod firmVery goodVert-SSweet; w/o acidMid-Season JunebearingAllstarFairMidMedFirmVery goodVert-M/R;RedStele-RFoliar-TOrange-red; irregular; delicateskinBrunswickGoodMidMed-largeFirmVery goodRedStele-R;Foliar- R;Phytoph-SHigh yield; Dark red skin, medred fleshCabotFairMid-lateVery LargeVery FirmFair to goodVery suscept.to mitesLower yields; few runners;CavendishVery goodMidLargeFirmVery goodVert-MRedStele-RFoliar-RHigh yield but high temps cancause uneven ripeningGlooscapExcellentMidMedMod FirmGoodVert-M;RedStele-SGood for freezingJewelFairMid-lateLargeVery firmExcellentRedStele-S;Vert-S;Foliar-MHigh yield if no winter damageKentVery goodMidMedMod firmGoodRedStele-SFoliar-VSHigh yield in cooler tempsL’AmourGoodMidMed-largeFirmVery goodFoliar-SConsistent; high qualityMesabiExcellentMidMed-largeMod FirmExcellentRedStele-R;Foliar-RHigh yield; juicy, doesn’t storewellSenecaGoodMidMedVery FirmGoodVert-SHigh yield; TartSurecropGoodMidLargeFirmVery GoodVert-R;RedStele-RVigorousSparkleVery GoodLateMedFairExcellentRedStele-T;Foliar-S; Vert-SBerries lose size over seasonWinonaVery goodLateLargeFairGoodRedStele-R;Foliar-TOrange-red berriesLate Season JunebearingEverbeaing/Day NeutralFt. LaramieExcellentEverMedFairFairVert-ModDark-red soft fruitOgallalaExcellentEverMed to LargeSoftVery goodFoliar-ROlder variety; yields wellQuinaltGoodEverMedSoftFairFoliar-RVery sweetTributeVery GoodNeutralMedFirmGoodVert-R;RedStele-RLow yield; lighter-colored fruitTristarVery GoodNeutralSmall-MedFirmVery goodVert-R;RedStele-RLow yield; Intense colorSeascapeFair?NeutralLargeFirmVery GoodVert-SRedStele-RFoliar-mixedPlant closely- does not runner;dark red berriesPage 3 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Table 2. Fertilizer recommendations for strawberriesApplication Rate for NitrogenTimingAmt for 100 ft. rowAmt per acre½ l b.*20 to 4 0 lbs½ l b.20 to 4 0 lbs.1 l b.40 to 8 0 lbs.2 to .4 l b.15 to 40 lbs.Junebea r ingPr ior t o pla nt i n gAug . of pla nt i n g ye a rS ubs equent ye a rs :I mmedia t ely a fte r re n ova ti o n (Au g )Day- neut r a l or E ve rb e a ri n gE ver y 3 t o 4 w k s (1 s t a n d s u b s e q u e n t years)*equiva lent t o 5 l b s o f 10 -10 -10 o r 2 l b s o f 25-5-10 per 10 0 ft. rowdon’t wait too long to plant, as the earlier the plants areplanted the more quickly they will become establishedand become productive.Proper planting depth is important for quickestablishment. It is critical that plants are put in theground at the right depth (Fig. 1). Setting the plants toohigh will expose roots to drying; too deeply will reducetheir vigor and invite crown rots. The soil level should beat the center of the crown after the soil is firmed aroundthe roots. Be sure that the hole is deep enough so thatthe roots are not bent or placed sideways rather thandown. Remove any flowers or dead leaves. Don’t allowthe roots to dry out while planting (cover them with adamp cloth if needed) and water the plants right afterplanting to settle the soil around the roots. Adding strawmulch around the plants can help keep the roots moistas the plants become established.Establishing Junebearing StrawberriesJunebearing strawberries are most often grown in amatted row. Set plants 1.5 to 2.5 feet apart in rowsspaced 3 to 4 feet apart (Fig. 2). Each plant will produceseveral runner plants. Let the runners develop until a 1to 1.5 foot-wide matted row forms. Keeping the rowsnarrow will minimize fruit rot and allow for easier harvestand weed control. Wider rows are not as productiveas narrow rows because the plants in a wide row areshaded by each other, reducing their productivity.After planting, remove flower blossoms fromJunebearing strawberries during the first year toGood weed control is critical during establishment aswell as successive years. Early weed control will reducefuture problems and improve fruit yields. Few herbicidesare labeled for use in strawberry plantings, so preplantcontrol, mulching and timely weed removal are the bestways to increase planting longevity.Fig. 1. Proper planting depth. Univesity of MinnesotaFig. 2. Spacing for matted row plantingsPage 4 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
promote plant establishment and increase yield infuture years. Remove flower buds only during theestablishment year. Irrigate during dry periods so theplants will receive a minimum of one inch of water/weekin August during runner development.Runner removal may be necessary for some day-neutralcultivars during the first 6 to 8 weeks after planting toencourage establishment and greater productivity. Thisis not necessary on all day-neutrals as many day-neutralcultivars do not runner readily.Establishing Day-neutral and EverbearingStrawberriesDay-neutral strawberries are most productive thefirst year. Although they can be wintered over likeJunebearing types, their major advantage is that theyproduce a crop the first year. Day-neutral cultivarsprovide the option of growing strawberries as an annual.Day-neutral/everbearing cultivars can be planted in rowson a 6 to 8 inch raised bed (Fig 3). The raised bed willprovide better drainage and allow faster establishmentin the spring due to higher soil temperatures. Becausethese strawberries do not produce many runners,place plants 6 to 9 inches apart in single rows threefeet apart. Alternatively, place the plants 8 to 12 inchesapart within double or triple rows that are spaced8 to 12 inches apart within the bed. Leave 1.5 to 2feet between each series of double or triple rows forcultivating and harvesting. After planting, mulch thebeds with 1 to 2 inches of clean straw to conservemoisture, keep the soil cool, control weeds and keepthe fruit clean. Plastic mulch can also be used with dayneutral and everbearing varieties. Black plastic will helpwarm the soils and encourage better growth. However,white plastic may be more suitable for areas with highsummer temperatures, since day-neutral strawberriesstop forming flower buds when temperatures exceed85F. Drip irrigation will be necessary for strawberriesplanted on plastic mulch.Remove flower blossoms from day-neutral/everbearingplants for 4 to 6 weeks after planting to promote plantestablishment. Allow the plants to flower when theyhave 5 to 6 fully expanded leaves (about July 1). It is notnecessary to remove blossoms after the first year.FertilizingFertilization requirements for Junebearing and dayneutral strawberries differ. Preplant applications shouldbe based on soil test recommendations. After theestablishment year, apply nitrogen to Junebearingstrawberries during renovation to promote thedevelopment and establishment of new runners (Table2). Never apply nitrogen fertilizers to Junebearingstrawberries in the spring of bearing years as thiscan promote dense foliage, softer fruit and diseaseproblems.Day-neutral/Everbearing strawberries have a highdemand for nutrients and can be fertilized every 3 to4 weeks to maintain fruit production throughout theseason. This usually results in 4 to 6 applications duringthe season. Fertilizer applications in the second yearshould be similar to that of the first year and shouldinclude a spring application.Soils with medium to high organic matter will requirelower levels of nitrogen. One may use a soil test or foliaranalysis to help find out whether micronutrients need tobe applied.MulchingFig 3The flower buds of Junebearing strawberries are formedin early September. The flower buds are injured bytemperatures below 15ºF. To provide winter protection,apply 3 to 5 inches of a mulch material before the airtemperature drops below 15ºF. Once soil temperaturesremain below 40ºF, the plants are dormant and maybe mulched. This is usually in late October to earlyNovember, after several freezes. Any mulch, such asstraw, Sudan grass or a similar material that is freeof weed seeds can be used for winter protection. Donot use leaves or grass clippings for mulch as thesematerials pack down and smother rather than protectthe plants.Page 5 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents
Day-neutral/Everbearing plants that will be carried overfor a second year of production should be mulched atthe same time as Junebearing strawberries.Remove mulch late in the spring (mid-April to earlyMay) before the developing leaves under the mulchstart to turn yellow. Sometimes it is necessary toreplace the mulch temporarily during a sudden springcold spell. During the growing season, leave somemulch on the ground within the row to keep the fruitclean. Pile the remaining mulch in the picking aislesto help control weeds and provide a clean walkwayfor the pickers. However, if you have observed leafdiseases the previous year, replace the mulch in the fallor early spring with fresh straw to remove any diseasepropagules that may be clinging to the old mulch.Junebearing strawberry renovationImmediately after final harvest, renovate the rows tomaintain plant vigor and production. If the plantingbecomes too dense, berry size and yield are reducedand disease can become a problem. Junebearingstrawberries grown in a matted row can be kept for 3-5seasons if good weed control is maintained. If the bedshave become too weedy, consider removing them andestablishing a new planting with new plants.After harvest and before August 1st, begin renovationby controlling weeds. A broadleaf herbicide such as2,4-D amine may be applied at that time, however, thisherbicide should not be used if strawberry beds arelocated near other plants that are susceptible to thisherbicide. Sethoxydim (Poast is one of the formulations)is a grass herbicide that is currently labelled in SouthDakota for use as a spot treatment in strawberry beds,although not within 7 days of harvest. Never use anherbicide unless it is labeled for strawberries and besure to follow all label instructions carefully.Mow off the leaves one inch above the crown withinone week after last harvest. Delaying mowing mayresult in damage to the new leaves. An old rotary lawnmower may be used to mow the berries if it can beraised to the appropriate height. If beds are weed- anddisease-free, mowing may not be necessary. Cultivatebetween the rows, reducing the row widths to 12 to 18inches. This will provide space for runners to form andbecome established for the next year. Apply nitrogento promote runner development and establishment.Maintain weed control into the fall.Irrigation, Frost Protection and CoolingStrawberries are very shallow rooted and require aconstant supply of moisture to produce good qualityfruit. They require about 1 inch of water per week.In most areas of South Dakota, strawberries requiresupplemental irrigation. High temperatures and windysites will require more water than areas sheltered fromwind. Day-neutral strawberries require more carefulwater management than Junebearing strawberries tokeep production up throughout the summer. Trickleirrigation under the mulch is the most effective irrigationmethod. Overhead irrigation can be used with organicmulches. When watering overhead, apply water earlyenough in the day to allow leaves to dry before evening.Late spring frosts can severely damage flower buds,blossoms, and fruit. Sprinkler irrigation can be used toprevent frost damage: begin sprinkling (0.1 inch/hr) assoon as the temperature has dropped to 32ºF at thelevel of the leaves in the lowest part of the field, andcontinue to sprinkle until the ice has melted from theleaves and temperatures are above freezing.Sprinklers can also be used during hot weather to coolday-neutral plantings, to improve flowering and fruitingwhen temperatures exceed 85ºF. However, allow thefoliage and fruit to dry out before nightfall to avoiddisease problems.Insects and DiseasesSelection of resistant vari
spring and less in the fall. Everbearing strawberries do not produce as many runners as Junebearing strawberries. ‘Fort Laramie’ and ‘Ogallala’ are two popular everbearing strawberry varieties. These are not usually used in commercial production. The alpin
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