Coffee By Design

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Coffee byDesign

2 Java Juice4 The Deconstructed Cup12 Lait Men13 Craftsmanship fromCrop to Cup14 Coffee Talk16 Bean Brainiacs19 I Heart Latte20 Homemade Coffee &Dark Chocolate IceCream Recipe

JavaJuiceDespite the similarities in ingredients, there are a variety of differentstyles of coffee drinks to try. Experiment to see which you prefer.MacchiatoMochaItalian word for ‘Marked’2-3oz (60-90ml) cup or glass1 single espresso2 teaspoons textured milk6-7.5oz (180-220ml) glass1 single espresso5oz (150ml) cold milkDrinking chocolateTexture the minimum amount of milkyou can (enough to cover the end ofthe steam wand) and set aside.Extract a single espresso into asuitable espresso glass or cup.Swirl textured milk in the jug to reintegrate the texture.Spoon 2 teaspoons of milk into thecenter of the espresso.Begin texturing milk to desiredtemperature.At the same time extract singleespresso.Stir 1 teaspoon of drinking chocolateinto espresso shot.Swirl textured milk in the jug to reintegrate the texture.Pour milk directly into the center of theespresso with the milk jug tip close tothe espresso surface.Steady consistent pour is the secret.Garnish with drinking chocolate.2

PiccoloAmericano/Long Black3oz (90ml) glass1 single espresso5oz (150ml) cold milkBegin texturing milk to desiredtemperature.At the same time extract singleespresso.Swirl textured milk in the jug to reintegrate the texture.Pour off some milk from the jug intothe sink (Piccolo only).Pour milk directly into the center of theespresso with the milk jug tip close tothe espresso surface.7-8.5oz (200-250ml) glass1 double espressoExtract a double espresso.Pour in hot water to fill cup.Flat White6-7.5oz (180-220ml) cup1 single espresso5oz (150ml) cold milkSame method as Piccolo.Steady consistent pour is the secret.Iced LattéTall glass1 double espressoCold milkFlavored syrup (optional)IceCombine espresso, milk and syrup(optional) in a glass. Stir well thentop with ice.Affogato7-8.5oz (200-250ml) low profile glass1 double espresso1 scoop vanilla ice-creamChopped pistachios or grated chocolate (optional)Extract espresso, set aside.Scoop ice-cream into glass.Pour espresso directly over ice-cream.Garnish with chopped pistachios or grated chocolate.3

The Deconstructed Cupby Harold McGeeCulinary Science Writerauthor of On Food and CookingA well-made cup of coffee is one of life’s good things, ahappily affordable, everyday pleasure. And as foods anddrinks go, it’s pretty simple to make. All it takes is roastedcoffee beans, water to extract their deliciousness, a pot, andsome heat. Yet coffee lovers over the centuries have comeup with dozens of different brewing devices. Home coffeemachines have been evolving especially rapidly in recentyears, some of them costing as much as a thousand visits toa café.Why? Well, as simple as coffee making may be, the qualityof the result is exquisitely sensitive to details of the process:such things as how the beans are ground, the relativeproportions of coffee and water, the temperature of thewater, and the duration of the extraction. The appeal of thenew generations of coffee makers is the control they offerover these critical aspects of brewing, the consistency inquality that results, and the convenience of leaving it to themachine to get it right without our vigilance.Whether you’re making campfire coffee, dripping a cup byhand or in a machine, or pulling espresso shots, a generalunderstanding of what you’re doing can help you do itbetter, and enjoy the process as well as the results.4

COFFEE BEANS:CreatingFlavorCoffee starts with the cherry-like fruits of two tree speciesnative to northern Africa and now grown in many tropical andsubtropical countries. When the coffee cherries are harvested,the seeds are removed from the surrounding pulp and thendried and exported to coffee makers all over the globe.These raw coffee ‘beans’ are similar to dried pinto or soybeans: they’re hard, aroma-less packages of basic nutrientsfor the sprouting seedling, proteins and carbohydratesand oils. They also contain protective bitter and astringentcompounds, including caffeine, that deter animals fromeating the seeds along with the tasty pulp.Ripe cherrieswaiting to be pickedWe make these uninteresting pale-green beans coffeecolored and delicious and grindably brittle by roasting them.High heat breaks down a portion of the bean nutrients anddefenses and causes the fragments to react with each other,a crazily complex process that generates many hundredsof new kinds of molecules. Among them are sweet andsour and bitter and savory tastes, a host of aromas, andcharacteristic brown pigments.Coffee flavor is determined by the composition of theoriginal beans, and the degree to which they’re roasted.Typical roasting temperatures can run between 375 and425 F (190-220 C), and roasting times between 90 secondsand 15 minutes. Beans mildly roasted to a matte browncolor produce a light-bodied drink with a distinct acidity,and often delicate fruity and flowery notes. More extensiveroasting produces deeper-colored beans and a cup with lessacidity, a fuller body, and a rounder, more generic roastedflavor. Dark roasting produces brown-black beans that aredistinctly oily in appearance and have a grilled aroma, more5bitterness, and a thin body.

Roasted coffeebeing cooled on theroaster’s cooling trayCOFFEE BEANS:FreshnessTo make a good cup of coffee, it’s important that the beansbe recently roasted, ideally within a few days of the brewing.Unlike raw beans, roasted beans are not chemically stable,and they start changing the moment the roasting stops.Some coffee connoisseurs think that flavor can actuallyimprove over the first few days. But roasted coffee soondevelops stale, rancid flavors as its unsaturated oils areattacked by oxygen in the air.Whole coffee beans keep reasonably well for a week or twoat room temperature, or a couple of months in the freezer,before becoming noticeably stale. Whole beans keep as longas they do in part because they’re filled with carbon dioxidegenerated during the roasting, which helps exclude oxygenfrom the porous interior. Grinding the beans releases thecarbon dioxide as well as some desirable aromas. It alsohugely increases the surface area of bean material that’sexposed to the air. So it’s best to grind whole beans justbefore brewing, or if you use pre-ground coffee, to brewwithin a few days of the grinding. Vacuum-packed beans andgrounds are protected from oxygen and last longer, but besure to check the date on the package. Even with vacuumpacked coffee, fresher is better.Before using frozen coffee, warm the unopened packageup to room temperature first, so that no flavor-damagingmoisture will condense on the beans when you expose themto the air.6

GRINDING:EvenParticleSizeWhen we brew coffee, we expose particles of the coffee beanto water to extract the components that contribute flavor,body, and color, while trying to minimize the extraction ofunpleasantly bitter and astringent substances. The extractionprocess is influenced by a number of different factors. Firstamong them is the size of the coffee grounds. The smallerthe particle, the faster it will give up its contents to the water.No matter what the brewing method and its optimal grind,it’s important that the grind be reasonably even. In a mixtureof fine and coarse particles, the fine ones will give up theirdesirable components quickly and start to cause bitternesswhile the coarse ones still have good flavor trapped inside.There are two standard types of coffee grinder. The rotatingblade of inexpensive electric propeller grinders smashes allthe bean pieces indiscriminately until it’s stopped, so coarseand medium grinds end up containing some fine powder.More expensive burr grinders, which may be electric ormanual, crush the beans between adjustable grooved plates,and allow bean fragments to fall free of the mechanism assoon as they’re small enough. Burr grinders give a moreeven particle size.7

BREWING:WaterTemp andExtractionTimeWhile the coffee grind determines how easily water canget into the particles and extract their contents, the actualprocess of extraction is controlled by the water temperatureand the brewing time. The hotter the water and the longerthe brew, the more completely solubles are extracted fromthe coffee particles. A balanced flavor results when between20 and 25% of the bean materials are extracted into thewater. With a lower extraction the brew is bland and sour; ahigher extraction tends toward harshness.Coffee can be and is brewed in room-temperature water, butsuch cold-brewing takes hours. The best standard coffee isbrewed with water between 180 and 205 F, or 80 and 96 C.At the upper end of that range, water extracts both morearomatics and more bitterness. At the lower end, the coffeecomes out smoother but less fully flavored.The extraction time is the easiest variable to adjust duringthe brewing, and it depends mainly on the fineness of thegrind. The coarse grounds used in plunger pots are usuallyextracted for 4 to 6 minutes, drip and stovetop devicesextract medium grounds for 2 to 4 minutes, and espressomachines extract fine grounds for about 30 seconds.8

BREWING:CoffeeStrengthCoffee strength—the concentration of coffee solubles in thebrew, and the intensity of flavor—is determined primarilyby the proportions of ground coffee and water. Differentbrewing methods call for different proportions, and thecoffee strength we aim for in any one of them is a matter oftaste. At the extremes, typical American drip coffee is madewith a ratio of one part coffee to 15 parts water by weight,while the ratio for espresso is 1 to 5 or even higher.It can be fun to experiment in order to find the proportionof coffee to water that you prefer. You’ll find that it’s betterto start with a brew that’s too strong rather than too weak,because strong but balanced coffee can be diluted with hotwater and remain balanced. Weak coffee tastes watery andacidic and can’t be improved.To brew consistently, it’s best to measure the coffee byweight rather than volume. Coffee scoops may be moreconvenient than using a scale, but they’re not as reliable.A standard scoop can contain anywhere between 8 and 12grams of coffee depending on the grind and how compactedit is. And an additional gram or two can make a noticeabledifference in flavor. A typical amount of coffee for an 8-ouncecup of drip coffee is 16 grams.ESPRESSO:SuperExtractionEspresso coffee stands apart from all the other coffee brews.It contains three to four times more coffee-bean extract,including a fine emulsion of the bean oils that other methodslargely leave behind in the grounds. The result is an intense,rich, full-bodied brew whose flavor persists in the mouthlong after it’s been swallowed. A distinctive mark of a wellmade espresso is the crema, a creamy foam created by thecarbon dioxide gas from fresh and freshly ground beans anda variety of bubble-stabilizing coffee components.True espresso coffee is made with a machine that heatswater to around 200 F, 93 C, and then pushes it through veryfine grounds with the force of nine atmospheres of pressure,or well over 100 pounds per square inch, by mechanical orhydraulic means. The pressure emulsifies the coffee oils intothe brew. Inexpensive approximations of espresso machinesextract with boiling water and relatively weak steampressure, and don’t produce as balanced and delicious aresult.9

Milk inCoffeeDrinksCoffee is frequently partnered with milk, which moderatescoffee’s strong flavor by diluting it and binding some of theastringent and bitter components. And milk provides itsown flavor, notably sweetness from the milk sugar lactose.A quarter-cup or 60 ml contains the equivalent of almosta teaspoon of sugar—which is why you don’t need to addsugar to a café au lait. Milk proteins and fat both contributebody, so milk drinks also feel more substantial and lingeringin the mouth.Milk is also good at forming a persistent foam that can lendan appealing body, both full and light, to cappuccinos andlattes. Milk bubbles get their staying power from heat, whichunwinds some of the milk proteins and encourages themto form a delicate but solid network around the bubbles,a kind of structural reinforcement. The most common andwell-honed method of foaming milk is with the steam wandon an espresso machine, but there are other and simplerways. Steam itself doesn’t form bubbles; it’s water vapor andsimply condenses into liquid again when it hits the coolermilk. Instead, the steam wand is designed to inject air intothe milk to form bubbles, and the steam does the heatingto stabilize them. You can improvise a milk foam simply byshaking a little cold milk in a jar until it foams, and thenheating the jar briefly in the microwave to set the proteins inthe bubble walls.10

ServingCoffeeFreshly brewed coffee is best enjoyed immediately. Its flavoris evanescent, evolves as it cools, and suffers from furtherheating, which drives off aroma, increases acidity, anddevelops harshness. Preheat cups so that they don’t coolthe coffee too quickly. If you want to serve a pot of coffeeover an extended time, brew or transfer it into a preheatedinsulated container. Don’t keep it hot by continuing to heat it.The gentlest way to reheat cold coffee is to warm it slowly inthe microwave on low power, taking a few minutes per cup.11

Lait Menby Corby KummerSenior editor of The Atlanticauthor of The Joy of CoffeeI wish I was a sufficiently sophisticated coffee drinkerto wave away milk when it’s offered, with a curt, I-takeit-straight wave, the way I saw the real coffee men (andwomen) I interviewed do while researching my book TheJoy of Coffee. But after doing my best to imitate them, Iadmitted the truth: I like milk in my espresso, and usuallyin my brewed coffee too.Coffee men like Jerry Baldwin, one of the three foundersof Starbucks and later the owner of Peet’s, want customersto appreciate the full range of flavors in the coffee they’vetrekked to Kenya or up a Guatemalan mountain to procure.Listening to customers order latte after cappuccino afterlatte one day, he said in exasperation, “Sometimes I wantto tell everyone once a week that it’s the cow’s day off.”But milk can deeply and broadly enhance the flavor ofcoffee, acting as olive oil in vegetables and in cream saucecan: as a flavor amplifier that attenuates the subtlest notesin a blend. And there’s no way around the comforting,stomach-settling effect warm milk has. Milk softens andelongates a short shot, and provides a pillowy cushion toset off what can be the angular, intensive flavors of a wellpulled espresso.So there’s your rationale.Read Corby Kummer’s fullarticle on FoodThinkers.comand learn how other culturescombine milk and coffee.12

Craftsmanshipfrom Crop to CupWATCH ONMeet Toby SmithThe founder of Toby’s Estate talks about the world of coffee.Wake up and smell the coffee. And if you do, you may noticethat it has a different quality from the Folgers and MaxwellHouse of yesteryear.There is an evolution brewing in the North Americanspecialty coffee scene.Great boutique roasters are redefining the coffee experience.And Australian roaster Toby’s Estate is among the truemasters in the art of specialty coffee. Led by founder TobySmith — whose extreme dedication to coffee craftsmanshipextends from crop to cup and reflects a real respect for thecoffee-growing community — Toby’s Estate roasts and servescoffee in cafes all over the world.Today, Smith likens what’s happening in the North Americanespresso scene to paddling onto a huge wave, and he’s justabout to paddle onto it.13

Coffee TalkIn 2013, the Australian Breville coffee product design team came to the USto conduct in-market research and attend the Specialty Coffee Association ofAmerica event. While they were visiting, we had a chance to meet with themand discuss the global coffee movement and trends they see in the market.Phil McKnightRob GrassiaGerard WhiteGlobal Business ManagerSenior DesignerDesign Manager“My favorite coffee is aclassic single espresso.It’s the best for tastingall the coffee nuancesand major flavorcomponents.”“I prefer milk-based coffee,which I know for a lotof espresso enthusiastsis not the purist form.Cappuccino, latte, flat white— all those I quite enjoy.”“I drink three cups of coffeea day. They’re mainlyespresso coffees. I tryto keep it to three cupsbecause otherwise I’mbouncing off the walls.”According to the design team,consumer expectations on taste andservice have evolved greatly over thepast decade. Today consumers wantmore than just a hot cup of coffee;they place more emphasis on beingable to taste the coffee’s origins.“They want to know where theircoffee is from, and understand itsprovenance, the country, the estate onwhich it was grown, the altitudes, andall the nuances,” says Phil McKnight.“This sophistication is a great shiftin the consumer mind over the last10 years.”People care about the quality of theircoffee because they’re more engagedwith food in general. Consumers arenot just interested in the caffeine buzza cup of coffee can deliver. They reallywant to experience a taste.14

“We’re at the very beginning ofthe third wave of coffee, wheremainstream roasters don’t controlthe coffee scene,” explains McKnight.There are boutique roasters whoare sourcing direct from the farmand often buying green beans fromcooperatives. These roasters havedirect trade relations with the farmersthemselves so they have more controlover the quality of the beans and theirend product.With this new interest in beansand sourcing, consumers have adesire to try new brewing methods.For example, single cup pour overand cold brew beverages haveemerged in the past three to fiveyears. Consumers are making a returnto more simple methods of brewingcoffee. And technological advancesand new products coming to marketare spurring others to try new brewingtechniques.“Every country has a different wayof making coffee. These differentflavor profiles and brewing methodsshowcase how varied the coffee trendsare globally,” says Gerard White.For example, in the United Statesand North America, people are veryengaged with the drip filter market.Most people have a drip filter coffeemachine in their house and enjoy adarker roast. Whereas in the SouthernHemisphere, in places like Australia,New Zealand, and South Africa,consumers favor the espresso marketand prefer a lighter roast.“Keeping up with trends in the globalcoffee market helps us design betterproducts and ultimately helps us brewa better tasting cup of coffeeor espresso,” says Rob Grassia.The Buzz Around CoffeeThe Breville design team talks about what’s trendingin the coffee and espresso market.WATCH ON15

Bean Brainiacs“One of the core tenets of theBreville brand is simplicity. Wealways make sure that when aconsumer has an experience with aBreville product, that the experienceis simple. The product can be complicated, but the experience of usingthat product cannot be.”Phil McKnightOver the past six years, Brevilledesigners have tackled an extremelycomplicated challenge: making aperfect espresso at home.“Breville thinks about coffeedifferently in that we really want tounderstand the consumer. We tryand get inside the consumer’s mindand understand how they operate.We like to have insight on their realexperiences in their kitchen beforedesigning products for them, so wereally understand their habits andtheir environment. What they love,what they don’t like.”When designing first the Dual Boiler and then the Oracle , the design teamkept one common scenario in mind:A couple is having a dinnerparty, and at the end of the meal,they want to make six coffees fortheir guests.The designers set out to develop asystem that would allow the consumerto make coffee quickly and easilyand without any diminishment in theperformance.WATCH ONGerard WhiteBreville conducts market andcompetitor research, of course, butmore important are the in-home visitsthat they conduct globally. The productdevelopment process includes seeinghow consumers use products todiscover learnings that can be turnedinto products or enhanced features.People want simplicity, they wantconvenience, and they don’t wantmess.Espresso Machines for HomeTake a closer look at two espresso machinesgeared toward the coffee connoisseur.the Dual Boiler Shop Now16

“I get most of my inspiration fromthe commercial space. It’s the commercial space that drives quality fornew technology as they understandwhat consumers want, becausethey’ve got consumers comingthrough their doors every day. Wetranslate that experience into aneasy, seamless, simple, applianceto use in your home. The consumerdoes not have to be a barista, butthey can act like one if they want to.”Phil McKnightThere was a real difficulty in bringingcommercial temperature and pressurecontrol to a domestic appliance.The Breville designers and theengineers on the project researchedand reverse engineered a lot ofcommercial equipment to find out howthat process worked. With a greaterunderstanding of the complexities,they came up with a machine thatwould fit on a countertop and deliverthe same precision control overtemperature and pressure found inmuch larger, commercial units.In 2011, Breville launched the DualBoiler, a machine with a twin boilersystem -- an espresso boiler and asteam boiler -- so the coffee and themilk can be prepared simultaneously.During the development of the DualBoiler, the designers recognized thatalthough many people enjoy goodespresso and will venture to cafes forthem, they avoid making espressoat home because the process seemsintimidating.17

WATCH ONThe OracleAutomated or manual controls— it’s the espresso machineexpertly designed to simplify.With the Oracle, Breville set out toachieve a level of automation thatwould eliminate some of the technicalchallenges other machines commonlyhave when brewing an espresso. At thesame time, the design team wantedto make sure the user could have asmuch control over the machine as theywanted, and they would be able to getthe same results cup after cup.“We understand that consumerslove the taste of manual espresso,but they don’t necessarily love thecomplexity. So we automated themost difficult parts of that process:automating grinding, dosing, andtamping, and automating milktexturing.”Often, it’s the challenge of solvingthe problem that is inspiring. Andfor these product designers, it doesnot matter what the problem is, butrather knowing that they can solve itby breaking down the elements oneby-one.“That whole process of breaking itdown and achieving the end result iswhat excites me.”Rob GrassiaIt is this combination of criticalthinking coupled with artistic drive thatleads to the creation of some of theworld’s best home espresso machines.Phil McKnightthe Oracle Shop Now18

I Heart LatteEspressoSteamed Milk1Use only freshroasted coffee.12Grind, distribute evenly,tamp with 30 poundsof pressure.23Adjust temperature for coffeetype 200 F /-.Look for a steady, straightflow of coffee.43Use your favorite milk and filla chilled jug nearly halfway.Tip: Purge steam wand rightbefore using.Place steam wand 1/2 inchinto milk and aerate (hear ithissing) until milk is warm.Submerge wand andcontinue to steam milk untiljug is hot to the touch 140150 F.Tip: Clean wand immediatelywith damp cloth.Swirl milk in the jug tosmooth out bubbles.Shot should be dark auburnbrown, 1.5 to 2 ounces. Swirlslightly to prep for milk.Latte Art1Tilt the cup of espressotoward the milk jug and poura dot slowly in the centerof the mug to integrate thecrema and milk.2When you see the milk cloudcome through the espresso,start to ease the flow to finishthe pour.34Draw the pour through the dotto the cup’s rim while settlingthe cup back to level and stop.Enjoy!19

Homemade Coffee & Dark Chocolate Ice Creamby Chef Seamus MullenIngredientsInstructions3 cups unpasteurized, nonhomogenized whole milk with creamBring milk and half of sugar to a boil.1/2 cup sugarMeanwhile, whisk yolks with other halfof sugar, salt, ground espresso, andbrewed espresso and gently warm in abowl over a pot of simmering water.1 dash salt2 egg yolks, lightly beaten2 tablespoons finely ground espressobeans, I like Stumptown Hairbender1 double shot espresso1 tablet of bittersweet organicchocolate, I like to use Mast Brothers,broken into smallish piecesOnce milk comes to a boil, removefrom heat and allow to cool a fewminutes, then temper with egg yolks,and cook over a bain marie, stirringconstantly with a rubber spatula, untilcustard coats the back of a spoon.Remove custard from heat, strainthrough a fine mesh sieve, and setaside in the fridge to cool down.Once the custard has cooledcompletely, fold in chocolate piecesand spin in ice cream machineaccording to manufacturer’sinstructions.Once the ice cream is finished, setaside in the freezer for 20 minutes tofinish setting up.20Photos by Colin Clark.

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coffee beans, water to extract their deliciousness, a pot, and some heat. Yet coffee lovers over the centuries have come up with dozens of different brewing devices. Home coffee machines have been evolving espe

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