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Thank you for choosing the Classic system.This guide is designed to make fitting as straightforward as possible.Before you commence installation of the roof, please;Ultraframe is rightly proud of its Classic roof. Over 1½ million1)Take a moment to read these two introductory pages beforeClassic roofs have been successfully installed over a 30 yearreading the rest of this guide.period. We have continued to invest to improve the features thatDo not fix the frames down at this stage – only temporarily ‘pin’the homeowner will appreciate and that should make your lifethe frames to the house wall (one fixing each side) to allow theeasier. Any feedback - positive or negative - is welcomed so weconservatory to ‘float’.can make our systems even better.2)Please contact the Tech Support Teamon 01200 452918 or core of the guide shows how to install a typical Georgian with Jack Rafters and glazed with glass.2section 1Pre-installation checks4section 2Roof vent sash5section 3Main assemblies - overview6-7section 4Georgian roof installation8-18section 5Speedlok removal sequence18-19section 6Tie bars19-20section 7Box gutter installation20-24Box gutter jointing22Box gutter support22-23Box gutter raised back23-24section 8Valleys24-26section 9Half ridge installation26-27section 10Ventilated wallplate installation27-28section 11Gable installation28-29section 12Drop valley installation30section 13Bolstered glazing bars31section 14Muntin bar installation31section 15Tie Bar Replacement Kit (TBRK)32-33section 16WOK34section 17Lantern34-35section 18Pagoda35-36section 19Super duty eaves beam37section 20Inter-rafter38section 21L Shape ridges/half ridges38-41section 22Conservaflash42section 23Roof vent installation43section 24Capping removal43ALL box gutters (especially thosewith tie bars or joints) MUST besupported.We recommend several types ofsupport for box gutters includingbrick piers. See pages 22-23 fordetails of our solutions. Fitting aconservatory box gutter withoutadequate support will lead tostructural failure. Please take thecorrect steps BEFORE installation.

TOOLS REQUIRED8, 10, 13mmSocket SpannerDeadblow Hammeror White RubberMalletNo. 2 Pozi-drive Bit5mm Wide FlatBlade ScrewdriverHack SawDrill/ScrewdriverLong nose pliarsGasket Shears/Snips4.5mm Drill Bit10mm Drill BitSealant Gun2 x 5mm Allen Keys(Vic fixing kit)17mm OpenEnded Spanner Tie BarsSpirit LevelTape MeasureAnglefinderPlumb bobEaves to frame fixings, host wall fixings and ridge top cap flashing trim screw not supplied.General pointsThe majority of aluminium and PVCu components containCare should be taken when handling components that are seenidentification codes, usually by inkjetting or labelling – should youby the homeowner, as surfaces may be scratched if not handledneed to re-order a part this should help. Please ask for a copy of ourwith care. Choose a suitable area for unpacking the componentsClassic product guide to keep in the van, which will give you furtherand always check them before fitting. Any claims for missing orassistance with future identification.damaged parts are only accepted in line with our standard termsand conditions of sale.SealingIt is important to use the correct sealant when sealing the roof.Health & safety1. For roofs glazed with Polycarbonate (or standard sealed units)Site safety is paramount. The Construction (Design & Management)a low modulus neutral cure brand of silicone must be usedRegulations 2015 apply to the whole construction process, on2. For roofs glazed with Conservaglass or other true self cleaning all construction projects from concept through to, then MS Polymer sealant such as Rotabond 2000 must beCompliance is required to ensure construction projects areused.carried out in a way that secures health and safety. The installationcompany shall be responsible for the safety of all of the fittingSealed Unitsteam, the customer and members of the public.All protective handling tape must be removed prior to installation.The Surveyor should have carried out a risk assessment to reduceFor the correct selection of sealant please see aboverisk on site and this should have been discussed with you prior tostarting.The SuperstructurePlease use safe working platforms and ladders that comply withCheck the Dwarf wall or Plinth for being level all round. Ensure thatBS EN 131. Always use equipment in line with manufacturersall frames which abut the host wall are vertically plumb, which willrecommendations. Personal Protective Equipment – such asthen allow perfect alignment with our Classic eavesbeam. Beforegoggles, mask and ear defenders – should be used when, forstarting to install the roof, please check the condition of the hostexample, grinding out for the flashing.wall and whether it’s plumb – depending upon what you find,Careful consideration should be given to the safe disposal of allthese conditions can seriously affect the final integrity of the roof,packaging – our packaging is predominantly made from recycledparticularly when a Tie Bar Replacement Kit (TBRK) is fitted.materials and can be readily recycled.ProductThe roof kit is supplied with a location plan, a quality control checklist for the box and this installation guide. The location plan is usedNumberingconventionstarts here, eg1, 2, 3, A, B, Cto match individual components to their respective position onthe roof. Our numbering convention always starts at the top left,against the house wall as you look from outside the conservatoryback at the host wall.Comprehensive paperworkaccompanies each roof3

SECTION 1PRE INSTALLATION CHECKSUnpack the roof vent sash and assemble, see section 2. Ifpossible, do this in the factory the day before.At this stage do not fix the frames down - pin only to the housewall (one fix per side) to allow the conservatory to ‘float’.Take the glazing bars from the roof pack and check the anchorclips are fitted (the clips are always at the top of the slope). On theeaves beam check that there are the correct amount of twin andsingle bolts and that the glazing support trim is fitted.Attach the glazing bar end cap fixing blocks - as access restrictions(box gutter situations) may prevent easy attachment later. NOTE:These are attached to the end caps when despatched from thefactory.Check the condition of the host wall as this may affect the quality of the final installation. Check the host wall is plumb - any running in/or out should have been accounted for by the surveyor. If not, the ridge and starter bars may require packing out with aluminium shims.Correct alignment in this area is critical to a successful installation - Plumb frames/level ridge.Only use the specified fixings - never be tempted to substitute alternative sizes/gauges.MS Polymer- Conservaglass- Self cleaning glassUse the correct sealant4Low modulusneutral cure- Polycarbonate glazing- Standard sealed units

SECTION 2ROOF VENT SASHIMPORTANT: The roof vent opening sash must be glazedprior to fitting the vent to the conservatory roof, leaving therecommended time (dependent on outside air temperature) forthe sealant to cure.1Sealant curing time will vary depending upon the time of year andoutside temperature prevailing, This could take up to 8 hours incold conditions. This is critical when the sash is to be glazed witha sealed unit.1. Remove the opening vent sash from the vent mainframe andlay the opening sash upside down on a flat surface. (Protect thesurface to prevent damage to the sash). Run a continuous beadof appropriate sealant immediately behind the black co-extrudedgasket, taking care to ensure a continuous run around theperimeter of the opening sash.2Remove all handling tape around the perimeter of the unit. Wheninserting the glazing ensure it is the correct way round and theexternal face is face down onto the continuous bead of sealant.4Re-fit the ‘L’ shaped serrated glazing beads to the opening sash.A small block of timber is useful to carefully knock in the beads.3Seal the area around the perimeter of the glazing. Onpolycarbonate, seal all sides other than the bottom breather tapededge. On sealed units seal around the full perimeter of the unit.5Centrally screw fix the sash bracket into the position shown aboveusing the fixings provided. Leave the sash to cure before fitting.5

SECTION 3MAIN ASSEMBLIESRidge AssemblyGlazing bar typesOptional soaker sits instarter barStarter - Chambered Capping6Georgian - ChamberedCappingVic/Transom - ChamberedCapping - main picture featuresDome, bevelled version alsoavailable see inset.Since Feb 2016, thestandard/default undercladding is DSBC

SECTION 3MAIN ASSEMBLIESEaves Assembly OptionsInternalFrame/SetoutEaves beam packer to suit roofpitches 5 , 10 , 35 and 40 5 packer10 packer35 packer40 packerStandard Eaves BeamSuper Duty Eaves BeamValley Section7

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATIONFITTER TIP - VIC FIXING KIT60mm frames70mm framesIn lineNOT SUITABLE FOR ‘SUPERDUTY’ EAVES BEAMWhen using the Victorian Fixing Kit drill a 10mm hole through the base of the eaves beam and completely through the head of the windowframe. Ensure that both sides of the 10mm hole are accessible for Allen key fixing. Use a 5mm Allen Key to tighten the fixings. The eavesbeam should be fixed at 450mm centres and within 200mm of each corner. THIS IS THE RECOMMENDED FIXING METHOD123UnderguttertrimApply a continuous bead of silicone tothe front and rear inner legs of the windowframes. Fit the initial piece of eaves beamensuring that the inside face of the eavesbeam is flush with the inside face of thewindow frame. Please note: Ensure thatthe under gutter trim is fitted to theeaves beam and all bolts are in situ priorto fixing to the frames.4Place the next sectionof eaves beam intoposition, by slottingthe corner cleat onthe adjacent piece ofeaves beam into thefirst piece.Using the pre-drilled pilot holes, drill two4.5mm holes through the corner cleats.OptionalSuper Duty Eaves(SEE p37)56200mmSecurely fit the two M5 x 12mm taptitescrews.8Securely fit the eaves beam to the framesusing for example, 38mm x 4.8mm screwsin the position shown. Fix down at 450centres and within 200mm of each corner.For 60mm frames use the inner eavesextrusion line and outer line for 70mmframes. Always screw down. (Not supplied)Once the eaves beam is secure, run a beadof silicone down the joint where the eavesbeam sections meet and where the eavesabuts the host wall. YOU MAY AT THISSTAGE INSTALL THE GUTTERING PRIORTO FITTING THE GLAZING BARS

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION7Fit the pre-formed soaker trim to eachstarter bar (if pre-ordered). Temporarilysupport the ridge and offer up the starterbars, loosely attaching using the roofingnuts and bolts supplied. THE SOAKERALLOWS CONSERVAFLASH OR CODE4 LEAD TO BE DRESSED BEHIND THESTARTER BAR TOP CAPPING.10Continue to support the ridge and offer upthe transom glazing bars (above), looselyattaching using the roofing nuts and boltssupplied. Ensure the rain baffle upper leg islifted prior to placing the glazing bars.13Attach bar at eaves position. Using yourthumb push down the upper dead lock soit’s flush. YOU MUST NOT PUSH UP THELOWER WEDGE LOCK UNTIL STEP 31.To remove the bar, lever up the dead lockusing a flat blade screwdriver, then insertthe screwdriver to release the socket latch.See p18-19.8Ensure the rain baffle upper leg is liftedprior to placing the glazing bars that fitto the ridge body sides. For 24mm glassunits/25mm poly, always set rain baffle intoits highest position.11Offer up the hip bars.14Next, attach the speedlok hood over eachbar, sliding it under the co-extruded gasketof the glazing bar undercladding.9Tighten the glazing bars first at the ridgeand then at the bottom (i.e. eaves beam).12Using Speedlok on the glazing bar end,offer the ‘ball’ into the matching socket.15Push down to locate, with the final positionabutting the front edge of the die cast end.9

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION16Continue to attach all the glazing bars usingthe location plan provided to check eachbars final position with its correspondinglabel.19Slide back the glazing bar undercladding toensure it lines through as shown above.22Fit all the gutter brackets supplied withthe kit at maximum 750mm centres andmaximum 200mm from each corner.1017Now start on the jack rafters. The two partjack rafter kit will already be fitted to thehip and jack rafter bars. Again refer to thelocation plan and corresponding labels attached to the parts.20Next, build on the ground the gutter runs,by rolling items like a stopend under theback edge of a gutter jointer. Push up tothe insertion line. DO NOT silicone seal,this would prevent natural expansioncontraction.23Gutter brackets shown fully engaged.18Ease back the jack rafter undercladding.Each jack rafter kit is supplied with a numberof washers. Trial fit the jack rafter and checkthat the glazing platforms are level. Adjust ifnecessary by adding or removing washersbetween the two part connecting kit, thentighten the nut.21Snap the integral clips on the adaptorsover the gutter. IMPORTANT: ensure alllengths of gutter fit to the market insertion line seen in all unions and box gutteradaptors.24Locate the back edge of each section ofgutter into the slot in the gutter bracket.

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION25Clip the front of the bracket into the lip onthe gutter. PVCu components like the gutterare easier to manipulate when warm. In coldconditions more ‘force’ may be required.28Check that the pitch of the roof is correct.Your Surveyor should have provided adrawing/a copy of the roof confirmationwhich displays the pitch.3126Ensure the window frames are plumb.29Check that the starter bar and firsttransom bars are parallel.3227Ensure the ridge is level.30Drill the starter bars/masonry within200mm of the ridge and eaves beam plusat least one more equidistant between thetwo. Pack out to support the starter barbehind each fixing before fitting the correctmasonry anchor. If necessary pack behindthe ridge too with aluminium shims.33FIT CONSERVAFLASHFinally when all is level and plumb, use yourthumb to push up all the lower wedge locks.The roof is now set. Now return to fasten the frames to the host wall and thedwarf wall.It is at this stage that pre-foamed soakerand stepped flashing are fitted SEE PAGE42Take the ‘soft touch’ hub weathering shield.It fits by lifting the flaps on the ridge rainbaffle to insert. NOTE: The weathering shieldwill need to be trimmed to suit to fit snugly.See p12/13 for trimming information.11

GEORGIAN INSTALLATIONWEATHERING SHIELD CUTTING DETAILSECTION 4READ ME FIRSTUP TO 3 STEPS MAY BE REQUIREDIn certain situations it may be necessary to make modificationsto the HUB Weathering Shield on site.Please refer to the table shown to see which steps need to betakenROOF PITCHGLAZINGTHICKNESSBARS TO FINIALBARS NOT TOFINIAL25mmFIG. 1FIG. 1 FIG. 435mmFIG. 1 FIG. 3FIG. 1 FIG. 3 FIG. 425mmNO CUTTINGREQUIREDFIG. 435mmFIG. 3FIG. 3 FIG. 425 mmFIG. 2FIG. 2 FIG. 435mmFIG. 2 FIG. 3FIG. 2 FIG. 3 FIG. 415 - 2425 - 3031 - 40FIGURE 1APPLIES TO ALL ROOFS BELOW 25 PITCH10mmFIGURE 2APPLIES TO ALL ROOFS BELOW 30 PITCH2530mm12mm

FIGURE 3SECTION 4APPLIES TO ALL ROOFS WITH 35MM GLAZINGFOLLOW DASHEDGUIDE ON PARTFIGURE 4APPLIES TO ALL ROOFS WITHOUT A GLAZING BAR AT THE FINIAL POINTThis step allows glazing to run through when there is nota bar at the finial point.With all other necessary preps complete, offer up theWeathering Shield into position. Using a straight edge(as shown), project and mark a line (‘A’) using the glazing‘V’ groove (indicated inset) parallel with the centre of thebar closest to the finial point.Mark line ‘B’ – this should intersect line ‘A’ and line throughwith the ‘upper edge of block (25mm glazing) or ’35mmdashed line’ (35mm glazing) – see below.Mark line ‘C’ – this should intersect line ‘A’ and the virtual‘MIDPOINT’ – see below.Remove segment and repeat on opposite side.25mm GLAZING35mm GLAZINGCUT PARALLELWITH BLOCK PITCHMIDPOINTCUT PARALLELWITH BLOCK PITCHALONG DASHED LINEMIDPOINT35mm DASHEDGUIDEUPPER EDGEOF BLOCKCCABAB13

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION343536Now glaze the sideframes before glazingthe roof - this providesadditional rigidity whilstworking above. INSTALLTIE BARS(S) BEFOREGLAZING.The rain baffle should nestle neatly to forma continuous weather tight joint.37For each glazing bar, ‘snip’ two small cuts inthe weathering shield and then a horizontalcut to remove ‘flap’ which facilitates the topcap sliding under.38a38bNOT ON POLYNow take the glazing end profile and runcontinuous bead of sealant (appropriatefor glazing) immediately behind the coextruded gasket (along the full length).Now seal the space between the glazingend profile and the sealed unit (see inset)at each end (DO NOT DO THIS ON POLYROOFS).39Slide the complete assembly down theglazing bar, using the endcap fixing blockas the ‘stop’.14Snap off appropriate handed clip (left hand illustrated). Handing marked on base of clip.Line up the rounded edge on base plate next to central web of glazing bar then tuck neatlyunder gasket side of bar. Rotate clip into position. Push the grommet over the post asshown.40Tease the ‘tail’ of the glazing support trimtape free (ready to be pulled away when thesealed unit is finally in position).41Centralise the glazing between the glazingbars. If necessary pack it out on each side press it down onto the support trim.

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION42Ensure the glazing end profile sits snuglybehind the grommet. Now, using the fixingprovided screw down into the bar as shown.Ensure clip offers maximum support toglazing at all times.43Ensure the rain baffle upper leg is lifted prior to fitting the top cappings.Knock the glazing bar top cappings onwith a Deadblow hammer. Greater careis needed in cold weather. Keep all trimswrapped until they are needed. Once againeach capping is numbered according to itsposition in the roof.If you are installing a roof vent pleaserefer to page 4344Work your way around the roof. The top capmust be lifted into its final resting place (atthe ridge) prior to being knocked down overthe Anchor clip.47Ensure the jack rafter top capping is linedup correctly (as above) before knocking thetop cappings into position. It is not possibleto ‘tap up’ the jack rafter top caps into finalposition when fitted with anchor clips.45If you haven’t fitted already, attach end capfixing blocks - These arrive attached to theend caps.Fit the glazing bar end caps bysliding onto the fixing blocks. Push fit theinsert into the end cap.48The jack rafter top capping should sit tightlyup to the hip bar top capping as shown.46Seal around the notched Georgian top capready to receive the jack rafter capping.49Seal around the joint on the jack raftercapping when complete.15

SECTION 4GEORGIAN INSTALLATION50Carefully point the corners on each side ofthe capping where the gaskets abut eachother535152Seal around the top of each glazing bar topcapping where it meets the rain baffle. Next,run a bead of sealant along the edge wherethe glazing meets the rain baffle.54Seal around each glazing bar top cappingwhere it meets the inner wall of the ‘softtouch’ moulded weathering shield.Also apply a bead of sealant to the topedge of the weathering shield so that theridge capping will seal against it when fitted.5540mmRun a bead of sealant in the position shownwhere the ‘soft touch’ moulded weatheringtray meets the ridge body.56Slide the cresting into the ridge channel.The last section of cresting (by the housewall) may require cutting to length. Somecresting options clip over the ridge body.16Now for the ridge top cap - Cut back thecresting channel on the top and the Tbolt slot on the underside of the ridge topcapping by 40mm.57Cut back the underside of the last sectionof cresting by 40mm.Now down on the ground take the ridge topcap assembly and screw the finial into thera

Classic product guide to keep in the van, which will give you further assistance with future identifi cation. Sealing It is important to use the correct sealant when sealing the roof. 1. For roofs glazed with Polycarbonate (or standard sealed units) a low modulus neutral cure brand of silicone must be used 2. For roofs glazed with Conservaglass or other true self cleaning glass, then MS .

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