MINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND

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January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgMINIMIZATION OF REWORKS IN QUALITY AND PRODUCTIVITYIMPROVEMENT IN THE APPAREL INDUSTRY1Md. Mazedul IslamAdnan Maroof Khan2Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan1Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Bangladesh 1Department of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering, Bangladesh University of textiles.mazed@daffodilvarsity.edu.bd ; maroof215@gmail.com ; mrktex@yahoo.comAbstractThe fast changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin, customer demand forhigh quality product, product variety and reduced lead–time etc. had a major impact on manufacturing industries.The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improvetheir operations through-Producing right first time quality and waste reduction. This paper discusses the qualityand productivity improvement in a manufacturing enterprise through practical study. The paper deals with anapplication of methodology in an industry which provides a framework to identify quantify and eliminate sources ofvariation in an operational process, to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain process performancewith well-executed control plans. The application of this paper improves the process performance of the criticaloperational process, leading to better utilization of resources, decreases variations & maintains consistent qualityof the process output. The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity andprofitability with improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and improvesinternal throughput time. A general overview over this development is given in this paper.Keywords— Costs, Operation, Productivity, Profitability, product Quality, Reworks.I. IntroductionAs the global economic condition changing in a rapidmotion, generally in an industry more focus is givenon profit margin, customer demand for high qualityproduct and improved productivity. In garmentmanufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments aftershipment. Reason, most of the manufacturers believethat garments are soft goods and non-repairabledefect may occur due to low quality raw materials orfaulty process or employee casual behavior.However, factory must have check points to controlover this issue. There is no ready-made solution thatcan reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each orderis unique. But this paper works suggest how tohandle this issue and bring down rejection rate tominimum. We see a lot of rejected garment aftershipment. Most of the organization termed thesegarments as rejected because those garments can’t berepaired by any means. Reworks in the garmentsindustry is a common works that hampers the smoothproduction rate and focus poor quality productshaving an impact on overall factory economy.Minimization of reworks is a must in quality andproductivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue forpoor quality product and low production rate.Reworks are the non -productive activities focusingon any activity that customer are not willing to payfor. Non-productive activities describe that thecustomer does not consider as adding value to hisproduct. By reacting quicker in minimization ofreworks to make a product as per customer demandwith expected quality, the company can invest lessmoney and more costs savings. Therefore, a studywas carried out in the garment industry named Opex& Sinha Textile Group located at Mirpur, Dhaka,147

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgBangladesh at cutting, sewing and finishing sectionto identify reworks so as to eliminate them for savingtime,2. Problem Definition and Methodology6.In the Apparel Manufacturing Industry, main rawmaterial is fabric; others are different types oftrimming and accessories. Operational wastages inthe Apparel manufacturing process are- top surfacerework, printed label rework, sewing fault rework,pinhole rework, fabric rework Improper fly shape,and other reworks. The general methodologyfollowed to minimize reworks is given below.7.8.9.1.Review of the existing quality system in thecompany2. Identification of defects in the variousdepartments by collecting data from oldrecords3. Analysis of data collected in order toidentify majorly occurring defects4. Categorization of defects5. Development of a model Quality InspectionSystem2.1. Review of factory existing Quality System10.11.12.13.Fig. 1 Review of Existing Quality ion of check sheets to capturedefects in different departmentsTraining on concepts of quality, importanceof maintaining correct data, usage of thecollected data to analyze and solve qualityissues through the tools of qualityIntroduction of Inline Inspection on Sewingfloor through a pilot run in one lineTraining on the Sewing floor to QC’s,supervisors and checkers on filling in theformat and on making Cause & EffectDiagramsAnalysis of defects occurring in the checksheets implemented in various departmentsand devising suggestions to improve uponthemSpreading of Inline inspection to other linesTracking of improvements and comparingthem with previous situation in differentdepartmentsVisual communication of performance.

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org2.1. Identification of DefectsThe reports of quality inspections in various departments were studied for the period of January – April- 2012.2.1.1 Cutting Department:Percentage of lots3%21%PASSFAILHOLD76%Fig. 2 Lots percentages overview of cutting departments2.1.2 Sewing Department6.00Defect categories wise D.H.U.5.065.004.003.003.363.122.70 2.632.002.001.571.30 1.191.13 1.11 1.02 0.940.681.000.49 0.36 0.340.23 0.19 0.10 0.090.00OPEN SEAMSUNEVEN MARGINUNEVEN NECK/PLACKET/W.BANDEXPOSED RAW STITCHFULLNESSUNEVEN GATHERBROKEN STITCHSHADE VARIATIONZIPPER PLACEMENTJOINT OUTBALANCING OUTPUCKERINGROPINGWRONG LABEL ATTACH/LABEL MISSINGFABRIC DEFECTSLOOSE TENSIONWRONG PANEL ATTACHHOOK /LACE/ BUTTON PLACEMENTFig. 3 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department149

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org2.1.3 Categorizations of DefectsSewing Defects: These defects are usually caused byerrors arising from wrong functioning of sewingmachines.Seaming defects: These defects are usually caused byerrors arising from the interaction of the operator andmachine in the handling of garment.Placement Defects: These defects are usually causedby errors arising in marking and cutting as well assewing operations in the sewing room or acombination of theseFabric defects: These defects are usually caused byerrors arising from the fabric processing like knittingand dyeing.Embroidery defects: These defects are usually causedby errors arising from the embroidery processing ofthe garments.2.1.4 Sewing Department Defects categories wiseDefect categories wise D.H.U. (Defects per Hundread Unit)Total pieces inspected- 30030Defects encountered-1177825.0020.73D.H.U.- 39.2220.00D.H.U.14.00Where,15.00Seaming defects- 622410.005.00Sewing defects- 42043.371.02Placement defects-10120.100.00Defect CategoriesFabric defects-307Embroidery defects-31SEAMING DEFECTSSEWING DEFECTSPLACEMENT DEFECTSFABRIC DEFECTSEMBROIDERY DEFECTSFig. 4 Defect categories wise D.H.U in the sewing department150

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org2.2 Stages of Model DevelopmentIdentification ofvarious options at thecheck points to capturedefectsSelection of varioustools to be used themodelDevelopments ofmodel2.3 Development of ModelInlineInspectionthrough DefectFrequencyRating SystemDefectcapturing at theEnd Linethrough checksheetsAnalysis ofdefectsCause & EffectAnalysis d2.4 Formats introduced in various departments.1. Cutting audit format 2. Cutting pattern checkformat. 3. Sewing in-line inspection format4. Sewing end-line inspection format 5. Sewing cause& effect analysis format. 6. Finishing initialinspection format151

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights tal CheckedPiecesOthersMeasurement outLabel AttachmentUneven RawMarginExposed Raw stitch56491013256842117744287866787537015 13959755541167203915111 13912 20712 135387270194134 2000Table.1 Defect categories wise and percentage defectives in the sewing department152PercentageDefective2610131Uneven Top StitchUneven fly shapePuckeringRopingBroken stitch46Total 10-Mar 0-Mar21-Mar24-Mar25-MarTOTAL 1Slip stitchThread TensionDATE3.0 Experimental Sewing 12152423141718201099121410911917

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org4.0 Cause & Effect diagram for major occurring defects and their implemented solutions4.1 Measurement out of toleranceImproper sweep shapeafter panel attachmentNotches not properSolutions ProvidedCauseNotches improper at pleatsImproper sweeppanel attachmentshapeafterSolutionCutting Department was informed about the cause and the reasonidentified was misalignment of plies during cutting. This being amajor defect causing activity was asked to be checked 100% in theaudit before sending the bundles to sewing. A template was providedagainst which the pieces were checked and in case of any deviation,white pencil was used to mark pleat positions.Bottom trimming was done to make the sweep uniform.153

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org4.2 Puckering at waistbandImproper pre-setting ofwaistbandCausesSolutionImproper pre- setting of waistband after thumbpressingPressing was done by steam iron with a spray of starch over it.This made the handling of the waistband easier while stitching andthus reduced puckering at the waistband.154

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org4.3 Roping4.4 Waistband extension unevenCausesImproper folder setting on machineSolutionThe folder guide was adjusted and improper materialshandling avoided155

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgCausesMargin not followed while attaching waistband andwaistband edge not finished properlySolutionThe operator was instructed to be careful while feedingand following the margins strictly4.5 Improper fly shapeCausesTop stitch is being inhibited by zipper lock underneathSolutionA template was provided to the operator and the stitchwas shifted a little below, altering the fly shape withintolerance level156

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org4.6 Fusing shining marksCausesPoor quality fusing usedSolutionFusing was changed and skilled operator required5.0 Trend chart showing reduction in defect levels after implemented solutionsD.H.U. levels in Measurement Out60402001-Mar2-Mar3-MarFig. 5 Defects level Reduction in Measurements Out1574-Mar

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgD.H.U. levels in Puckering2520151050Fig. 6 Defects levels Reduction in PuckeringD.H.U. levels in RopingFig. 7 Defects levels Reduction in RopingD.H.U. levels in Uneven fly ar8-Mar7-Mar6-Mar14121086420

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgFig. 8 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven Fly ShapeDefects levels in Label Attachment1614121086420Fig. 9 Defects levels Reduction in Label AttachmentDefects levels in Uneven Top en top stitchFig. 10 Defects levels Reduction in Uneven top Stitch1599-Mar10-Mar11-Mar12-Mar

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org6.0 Defects analysis in finishing department239250206200150132106100504330SOIL/ DUST/ RUSTSTICKER MARKSSWEAT MARKSVEGETABLE MARKSOIL SPOTINK/CHALK MARKTOBACCO MARKFig. 11 Defects analysis in finishing department6.1 Recommended Suggestions Implemented to Reduce Defects in finishing section1.Oil spots: Application of a scrap paper under thepresser feet of sewing machines after the day’s workso that the machines which are leaking oil can betracked.2. Proper oiling level to be maintained in order toprevent leakage of extra oil3.Operator to take responsibility of cleaning themachine after lubrication4. Immediate reporting of oil leakageInk/ chalk marks: Usage of good quality markers, themarks of which are easily washable 2.Avoid usingpencils for marking. 3. Usage of chalks on white andlight colored fabrics.Soil and dust: 1.Usage of plastic bags for storing andtransportation of pieces. 2. Cleaning of checkingtables and machines before the start of day’s work 3.Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using trolleysfor storage. 4. Creating a polyethene sheet partitionbetween sewing and finishing departments so thatfabric dust doesn’t come over to the finishing unitand settle down on the washed fabric.Suggestions implemented to reduce no. of uncut &loose thread: 1.Thread cutting operation to be carriedout after washing in order to counteract unraveling ofthreads after washing 2. Use of thread suckingmachine to prevent any loose threads to reach thecheckpoint160

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org7.0 Department wise results and discussion (Sewing, Finishing and Cutting department)7.1 Cutting 4035302520151050Fig. 12 Overall reductions in defect levels for cutting department7.2 Sewing DepartmentOverall Percent defective -Mar25-Mar0Percentage defectiveFig. 13 Overall reductions in defect levels for sewing department161

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.org7.4 Finishing DepartmentMarchOthersTouchingMendingCut & HoleWrong/Missing LabelEmbroidery/Beads/PrintingFebruaryHard StainsInsecure stitchUncut/ Loose threadStitchingShade VariationFabric Fault20181614121086420April 1- 15Fig. 14 Overall reductions in defect levels for finishing departmentCutting lot failure rate reduced to zero percentgenerally. Sewing percent defective reduced toapproximately 40%. In finishing, stitching D.H.U.came down to approximately 8% from 16% asearlier, uncut thread D.H.U. came down toapproximately 10% from 22% as earlier. Reworkincreased the cost of the different work categoriesbetween 2% to 30%. However, some best practices tocontrol defect generation within the factory weresuggested as- Make the workplace clean – fromfabric store to cutting to sewing to washing andfinishing. Place quality control system in properplace. Implies that sufficient no. of checkers, trainedcheckers, checkers making report while checking,analysis of reports and take action based on thequality check reports. Conduct training program forthe checkers on how to check piece correctly tocapture defective pieces. Train them to make garmentchecking reports. Run quality awareness program foryour employees. Quality standard must be understoodby each employee and everybody have to work tomeet quality goal. No low standard work should beaccepted by the following department. In sewing linedon’t allow operators to keep bundles open and eachbundle must be completed before forwarding to thenext. It will help you track missing pieces. It is usualexperience that operators throw pieces under tableswhen they make mistake or receive defective(incomplete) garments from previous operator.Nobody keeps track of these missing pieces until youfound shortage of garments in finishing. Set standardoperating procedures (SOP) for each task performedby your employees. SOP for quality control systemfor each department. Set audit team to audit yourquality system in a regular interval. These162

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgrecommendations were suggested to the individualdepartment.8. ConclusionThe suggestive tools developed in this article cover acomprehensive series of aspects in minimizingreworks in the sewing section of apparel industries byensuring quality production. The importance of thetextile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is veryhigh. The explosive growth of the RMG industry inthe country, however, has not been enough supportedby the growth of backward linkage facilities. Somanufacturing the quality product is mandatory tosustain in this global competitive market. Quality isultimately a question of customer satisfaction. GoodQuality increases the value of a product or service,establishes brand name, and builds up goodreputation for the garment exporter, which in turnresults into consumer satisfaction, high sales andforeign exchange for the country. The perceivedquality of a garment is the result of a number ofaspects, which together help achieve the desired levelof satisfaction for the customer. However, we shouldbear in mind that 1% defective product for anorganization is 100% defective for the customer whobuys that defective product. The study clearlyindicates that by eliminating non-productive activitieslike reworks in the apparel industries time as well ascost are saved by ensuring quality production whichhave an important impact on overall factoryeconomy.References[12] Florida, R. “Lean and Green The Move nia Management Review 39, (1996) 80-105[13]Environmental Technology Best PracticeProgrammed. (1996). saving money through wasteminimization raw material use, GG25, CrownCopyright.[14]M.Mahajan, “Statistical Quality Control”,Dhanpat Rai & Co. (P) LTD. pp.186-206,[1] Dr P Khanna: Work study, time and motion study,Dhanpat Rai and Sons, New Delhi, (pp 21-31).[2] F.M. Gryna, J.A. DeFeo, “Quality Planning &Analysis for Enterprise Quality”, Tata McGrawHill, Edition, 2008[3] (Opex Group) (n.d.). Retrieved december 2012,from viyellatex group: http//www.opexgroup.com[4] (viyellatex group)(n.d.). Retrieved texgroup.com[5] http//www.asiantextilejournal.com[6] (Sepal Group)(n.d.). Retrieved december 2012.From sepal group http//www.sepalgroup.com[7] (n.d.). Retrieved nov 2012, from fiber 2 fashion:http//www.fiber2fashion.com[8]Saroj Bala, Factors InfluencingCosting ofWoven Fabrics, The Indian Textile Journal, 2003[9]Dean J W and Bowen D E., 1994, ManagementTheory and Total Quality: Improving Researchand Practice and Theory Development, the Academyof Management Review 19, (3) PP 392-418.[10]O.H. Khan, “A Study of Six SigmaImplementation and Critical Success Factor”,Pakistan’s Ninth International Convention on QualityImprovement, Karachi, Pakistan, pp. 1-12, Nov. 2005[11]Hawken, Paul, Amory Lovins, and L. HunterLovins. Natural Capitalism: Creating theNextIndustrial Revolution (New York Little, Brown andCompany, 1999)Authors Biographies:Md. Mazedul IslamThe author is associated as Lecturer inthe Department of Textile Engineeringat Daffodil International University,Dhaka, Bangladesh. His researchinterest fields are- Apparel productionandMerchandising,ProductionManagement. Industrial Engineering,Apparel and fabric finishing, Textileand Apparel Quality control, ApparelBrand management, Apparel Washingetc.Adnan Maroof KhanThe author is associated as Lecturer inthe Department of Textile Engineeringat Daffodil International University,163

January 2013. Vol. 1, No.4ISSN 2305-8269International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences 2012 EAAS & ARF. All rights reservedwww.eaas-journal.orgDhaka, Bangladesh. His researchinterestfields’areGarmentsTechnology, Production Management,GarmentsQualityControl&Management, Textile Coloration &Fabric Structure and design, etc.Md. Mashiur Rahman KhanAssistant Professor & Head,Department of Apparel ManufacturingEngineering, Bangladesh Universityof textiles.164

1. Cutting audit format 2. Cutting pattern check format. 3. Sewing in-line inspection format 4. Sewing end-line inspection format 5. Sewing cause & effect analysis format. 6. Finishing initial inspection format Identification of various options at the check points to capture defects Selection of various tools to

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