Turkey’s Culinary Heritage - Oldways

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Turkey’s Culinary Heritagewith Oldways and Ana Sortun of OleanaGaziantep and Istanbul, TurkeyMarch 18–25, 2012

GaziantepGaziantep dates back to Hittite times andit has a Roman citadel to explore. Thecity is located between Mesopotamiaand the Mediterranean, at the intersectionpoints of roads connecting the east to thesouth, north, and west—and it was a key spoton the old Silk Road.Turkey’sCulinary HeritageandWe’d heard that Antep food is a wonderful blend of Arabic, Armenian, Kurdish andAnatolian influences, and we were keen tostart exploring the nearby markets. First,though, we had an appointment next door, atImam Cagdas.Ana SortunAntep baklava is made almost exclusivelyfrom pistachios, yet another thing the city isfamous for, and it even lends its name to thenut—Antep fistigi. Burhan Cagdas broughtover a small wooden bucket of pistachios forus to inspect. They were a vivid emerald greenand much larger than any we’d seen before.“These pistachios are of exceptional quality,”said Burhan, doling out handfuls of the nutsfor us to taste. “With ordinary pistachios, youget maybe 500–600 to a kilogram. The pistachios from Antep, there can be 130–200 to akilogram.”Gaziantep and Istanbul, TurkeyMarch 18–25, 2012Greg and Lucy MaloufTurquoise: A Chef’s Travels in Turkeyof

A Love Affair with TurkeyOldways’ love affair with Turkey and its food began in October 1993,when we brought more than 100 culinary experts from the US, UK,Japan, Australia and Canada to Istanbul for an Oldways Symposium. AfterOldways introduced the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid in January 1993, weinaugurated a series of culinary and scientific symposiums for journalists,cookbook authors chefs, and food retailers in Mediterranean countries. Ourpurpose was to provide a context for the Mediterranean Diet and olive oil—to “put the Mediterranean Diet on the plate” by introducing the foods, wines,preparations, and cultural attractions that are the foundation of the cuisinesof the Mediterranean. Turkey was our first stop on the Magical Mystery Tourof the Mediterranean—and it has lured us back, time and time again.As Dun Gifford, Oldways’ founder, wrote in 1993:“All of the world’s nations and cities are of course unique, each from the other.But Turkey can lay a clear claim to a special kind of uniqueness, a kind of‘terroir d’histoire.’ For all of recorded human history, and for a large part ofpre-history, the tides of human history have ebbed and flowed through the vast,mountainous peninsula that is today’s Republic of Turkey. There is abundantarchaeological evidence throughout Anatolia (as the Asian land mass of Turkeyhas long been known) of Ice Age hunters and gatherers, of Stone Age agricultural settlers, of Copper Age potters and metal tool makers, and of the originalBronze Age settlements at what—centuries later—became the “topless towers ofIlium” in Homer’s Troy.”“Crusades, hordes, Vandals, legions, and armies have all stormed throughAnatolia, since whoever controlled the Anatolian peninsula—aimed like achunky Asian arrow at the Greek and Italian underbelly of Europe—controlledthe Eastern Mediterranean and the riches of the east-west trade routes. Howmany millions of humans crossed and recrossed through this intersection of theOrient and the Occident in hot pursuit of the riches of empire or religious salvation, or both?”“Turkey’s culinary history is really one of migratory cuisines, because thewaves of people who washed over the Anatolian peninsula, rocked in its cradlesof civilization, and crossed back and forth through its intersection of Europeand Asia brought with them to Anatolia foods and traditions from the landsthey left behind, and took away with them when they moved on the foods andtraditions that they found there. Ottoman scholar Tom Brosnahan wrote, ‘It isworth traveling to Turkey just to eat. Turkish cuisine is the very heart of easternMediterranean cooking, which demands excellent, fresh ingredients and careful,even laborious preparation. The ingredients are often very simple, but are of thehighest quality, and in recipes they are harmonised with great care.”It is for all these reasons we are here in Gaziantep and Istanbul. We are hereto eat, to learn, and to bring home the pleasures and riches of Turkey andits cuisine that we will experience together. We are grateful to share thistime with you, grateful to Ana and Ayfer and our other friends—new andold—for sharing their love and knowledge of the foods of Turkey. We hopeyou will fall in love, as we have, and continue to spread the word about theglorious treasures of Turkey.A Message from Ana SortunIn1997, I was working at Harvard Square’s Casablanca restaurant, cooking Mediterranean food mostly inspired by my travels to Italy, Spainand the south of France. While at Casablanca, I was invited by Ayfer Unsal(whom you all will meet and who came to me via Oldways, by the way!) tovisit Turkey for the first time and to study the cuisine from her home town,Gaziantep. When I thought about going to Turkey, I imagined genies andflying carpets. I had no idea.I woke up to my first morning in Gaziantep. It was hot and I was off to themarket bright and early with Ayfer. I had put on shorts and a tee shirt andshe sent me back to my room to change into long sleeves and long pants.I thought it was interesting that I had to be covered and that women don’tusually go to the market. Where was I? I soon got over the mystery (understanding much later) but it’s the memory of a potluck she threw for me thatis tattooed inside my head forever. It was a turning point and a revelation inmy career as a chef.Her friends graciously threw me a welcome lunch (pot luck) in the park.Everyone prepared a favorite recipe (Ayfer made me make one too!) andthere were 30 amazing dishes spread out from one end of the table to theother. I tasted every single one and it was all so unfamiliar yet very rich andcomplex. I realized that I had tasted 30 dishes, essentially making my waythrough a 30 course tasting menu and I didn’t feel terrible. Even though theflavors were complex, the dishes were light. This idea of food being rich butnot heavy was something new for me. I’ve been hooked since that day andit has changed the way I cook forever. It became a study from there on andI explored ingredients, spices, recipes and techniques, eventually comingup with my own style of Mediterranean cooking that is modern, interpretivebut inspired by what I learned and continue to learn from travels to turkeyand other parts of the Mediterranean.Turkey’s cuisine is recognized as being one of the most sophisticated in theworld and it wasn’t well represented in the Boston area at the time I decidedto open Oleana (in 2001!!). I am so grateful to have had the eye-openingintroduction to Turkish food and I am so excited to share my enthusiasm(and Ayfer) with all of you as we re-trace some of my first experiences inthis delicious country!Thank you to Sara for being such an amazing influence in my life and fororganizing and leading this trip to Turkey so that we can taste and learnmore.Ana SortunChef/Owner, OleanaSara Baer-SinnottPresident, Oldways45

Culinaria ProgramSunday, March 18AfternoonCheck in at Hotels in GaziantepWe’re very fortunate to be staying in Anatolian houses, restored as boutique hotels. Our four hotels are Anadolu Evleri,Asude Konak, Tudyali Konak and Zeynep Hanim Konagi. Taketime to unpack, rest and/or explore your new Gaziantep neighborhood.6:3 0Welcome with Wine and CheeseWe’ll meet in the Courtyard at Anadolu Evleri, one of our fourhotels. This will give you time to meet and talk with your fellowtravelers, and as the group gathers, we’ll enjoy a glass of winewhile we have a brief introductory session with Ana Sortun,Sara Baer-Sinnott and Ayfer Unsal.7:30Dinner at Imam CagdasWe’ll leave Anadolu Evleri for a short walk to our WelcomeDinner at nearby Imam Cagdas, one of Gaziantep’s best kebabrestaurants.AfternoonFree time for shopping or restingYour time is your own after lunch. We’ll have a guide or twoavailable for those of you interested in going back to the Foodor Copper Market. If a nap is more your calling, we’ll be sureto get you back to your hotel for rest and relaxation.7:30Dinner at IshmailWe’ll go by bus to Restaurant Ishmail for a light dinner alltogether.Tuesday, March 208:30Mosaics at the MuseumWe’ll breakfast early in order to get a start on our day. We’llstart at the breathtaking Mosaics Museum in Gaziantep.10:30Day-long Excursion to MaraşKnown for peppers and dondurma (Turkish ice cream), Maraşor Kahramanmaraş, is a city and province about an hour fromGaziantep. We’ll visit the city and market, and learn moreabout peppers, one of the most essential ingredients in Turkishcooking.Monday, March 199:30Introduction to the Foods of TurkeyAfter breakfast at your hotel, we’ll meet again at AnadoluEvleri for an overview of Turkish foods and cuisines with Anaand Ayfer, giving you a good foundation for our week of foodexploration and good eating.10:30Visit to Gaziantep’s Food Bazaar and Copper MarketWith a deeper appreciation of Turkish cuisines, we’ll ventureinto Gaziantep’s food market, to see the food and ingredientsthat define this incredible cuisine. We’ll also make a stop atGaziantep’s very special Copper Market.12:30Pot Luck in Gaziantep (see page 28 for list of dishes & cooks)This exciting lunch is a recreation of the lunch that made sucha difference in Ana’s food life—a pot luck lunch Ayfer organized for Ana on her first visit to Turkey. We’ll meet in KavaklikPark in Gaziantep for a once-in-a-lifetime experience—a potluck lunch with 29 different dishes, plus 7 kinds of sweets,made by home cooks in Gaziantep (Ayfer’s friends!).6Our lunch today is at a “Floating Restaurant” on a river outsideMaraş, where we’ll enjoy what Ayfer promises is a wonderfultrout dish. After lunch we’ll go back into Maraş for dondurma,the famously delicious and elastic Turkish ice cream.Late Afternoon and EveningWe’ll return to Gaziantep after our ice cream treat for you tohave free time and enjoy dinner on your own. You’ll find suggested restaurants on page 26.7

Wednesday, March 21Thursday, March 228:30Visit to a Baklava HouseOnce again, you’ll want to have breakfast early, so we canleave by 8:30 to experience one of the best Baklava Housesin Gaziantep.Morning10:30Cooking Demonstration and Lunch (see page 30 for recipes)Back in the courtyard of Anadolu Evleri, Ana will demonstratea number of dishes—her more modern take on traditionaldishes. At Ana’s special request, Ayfer will also demonstratesarma, or classic grape leaves. Following the class, we’ll be treated to alunch of the same spectacular dishes.Istanbul, Kadikoy and CiyaUp early, early, early (we’ll specify the time the day before) toeat breakfast and take a bus to the airport. Our 7:45 am flightfrom Gaziantep arrives at 9:20 am at Istanbul’s Sabiha GokcenAirport on the Asian side of Istanbul. We’ll meet our guideOguz and go to the market district of Kadikoy, an un-touristysection of Istanbul on the Asian side.12:30LunchAfter a market exploration we’ll have lunch at Ciya, Ana’sfavorite restaurant. (See page 12 for information on Ciya andChef Musa.)AfternoonCruising the BosphorusKadikoy is also home to the ferries that cross the Bosphorusto the European side of Istanbul. We’ll take a cruise and thenbe picked up by our bus (with our luggage) and check in atthe Ottoman Hotel Imperial in Sultanahmet (Old Istanbul orStamboul). You’ll have some free time to unpack and explorebefore dinner.8:00Dinner at Nar GourmetWe’ll meet to walk to dinner at Nar Gourmet, a new restaurantwith a modern interpretation of Ottoman cuisine. It’s managedby Vedat Basaran, a chef and Ottoman culinary scholar, andan old friend of Oldways’ and Ana’s.3:00Visit to Archeological MuseumFollowing our lunch and someTurkish Coffee (perhaps you’lllearn your fortune!), we’ll walk tothe world-famous ArchaeologicalMuseum for a tour.AfternoonFree timeEnjoy a last walk in Gaziantep and make sure you are packedbefore we meet for an early dinner.6:30Dancing and Music with a Light SupperWe’ll be treated to a Sufi Show with a Whirling DervishCeremony and music before we leave Gaziantep. The showwill be accompanied by a light supper that Ayfer tells us oftengoes with the show. Our departure on Thursday is in the earlyhours of the morning, so we’ll aim to have you back at yourhotel by 8:30 or 9:00 in time to get some sleep and rest.89

Friday, March 23Saturday, March 248:30Spices and Street FoodFollowing breakfast at our hoteloverlooking the old city, we’llleave for Taksim and a streetfood-and-spice immersionwith Ana and Ayşe Gurdal, thedaughter of Istanbul native andFormaggio Kitchen owner, IhsanGurdal. Ana and Ayşe will takeus in and out of small shops and stores, guiding us with tastings and opportunities to buy Turkish spices. (Not to worry,you can bring dried spices through US customs.)8:30Tour of TopkapiWe’ll make the short walk to the gates of Topkapi, after a treetop breakfast at the hotel, for a guided tour of the palace thatwas the primary residence of Ottoman sultans for many years.12:30LunchAfter the spice and street food tour, we’ll stop at FerdaErdinc’s wonderful, low-key vegetarian restaurant, Zencefil(means ginger) for a light lunch. Ferda is a friend of Ana’s(who she met through Oldways) and was another special person, instrumental in Ana’s Turkish culinary journey.11:00Ana’s Cooking Class and Lunch at Istanbul Culinary(see page 34 for recipes)We’ll arrive at the wonderful Istanbul Culinary Institute, justacross the Golden Horn and near the Pera Pelas Hotel, forAna’s special cooking demonstration and lunch. Follow Ana’srecipes during the cooking demonstration and then we’ll go toa private dining room at the Institute for a lunch of the disheswe watched Ana make.3:005:30EveningTour of the Hagia SophiaOur tourguide Oguz will give a guided tour of the HagiaSophia, just across the street from our hotel. We’ll also visitthe Blue Mosque, if time and allowance for prayer time permit.Turkish Carpets 101 (optional) orFree time for exploring, shopping, restingAna has arranged for a special primer on Turkish carpets byher favorite rug merchant in Istanbul. This optional session willbe held at his shop, close to the hotel. Or, you may prefer toexplore or shop on your own, or take a pre-dinner siesta.After Lunch Free timeStay near Taksim, visit another part of Istanbul, or return withthe bus to Sultanahmet for time on your own before we meetfor our last evening and a Gala Dinner.7:00Gala DinnerWe’ll leave the hotel at 7:00 for dinner at Ulus 29, a trendyand stylish restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus and thetwinkling lights of Istanbul. We promise—you won’t forget theview or the food!Sunday, March 25Departures or touring on your own.Free evening - Dinner on your ownPlease see our suggestions on page 26 for restaurants to enjoyon your own.1011

Ana SortunWith a degree from La Varenne Ecole deCuisine in Paris, the Seattle-born Ana Sortunopened Moncef Medeb’s Aigo Bistro in Concord,Massachusetts, in the early 1990s. Stints at 8Holyoke and Casablanca in Harvard Square,Cambridge soon followed.This was all in the beginning of her career, whenSortun was still cooking what most people think ofas typical Mediterranean food from Spain, southern France and Italy. People loved it. While atCasablanca, a friend of the owner invited Sortun tostudy in Turkey. Not knowing anything about Turkish food or culture buteager to learn, she accepted. (“I imagined flying carpets and genies,” shesays wryly.) But when she arrived in southeastern Turkey, Sortun’s hostand her friends presented a potluck of sorts. “I tasted 30 amazing dishesfrom these women’s family repertoires,” Sortun remembers. “I was stunnedat how rich and interesting yet light everything was.”That trip was when she learned that in the Mediterranean, spice is used tocreate richness, depth and flavor without heaviness. She also experiencedthe mezze style of eating, which is to have many tastes of mostly vegetable-based dishes before reaching a protein course. “Chefs always focus onflavor and appearance,” says Sortun, “but few think about how one feelsafter eating a long meal.”Upon her return to Boston, she wanted to fuse her newfound love ofEastern Mediterranean spices with her passion for using only the best ingredients. The result of this union was Oleana, which opened in Cambridgein 2001. A mere four years later, Sortun won a coveted and prestigiousJames Beard Award.Sortun’s commitment to locally grown foodtook a turn for the personal when a farmerselling spinach turned up at the back door ofOleana one day. “I knew then that I would marryhim,” Sortun says. Since 2006, Siena Farmshas been providing the restaurant with mostof its fresh, organic produce. It is owned andfarmed by the chef’s husband, Chris Kurth, andnamed after the couple’s daughter.“If you’ve ever wondered how some of the world’s healthiest and best-tasting foods seem to wind up in your favorite home recipes and restaurantsthese days, you’ll be glad to know it’s not by accident. You have friends inthe business.”Cooking Light Magazine, about OldwaysLet the old ways be your guide to good health and well-being.Oldways is a nonprofit food and nutrition education organization, with amission to guide people to good health through heritage, using practical and positive programs grounded in science and tradition. Simply, weadvocate for the healthful pleasures of real food.At Oldways, we are more determined than ever to help everyone, everywhere, live longer and healthier lives. We will do this by continuing toencourage people to seek out the joys of good foods and drinks, well prepared and consumed with pleasure, in the company of family and friends.That is the profound and worthy mission that drives us and our partnersevery day.Healthy eating and healthy foods have the power to improve the healthand well-being of all of us. Science and common sense tell us that goodhealth and good food go hand in hand. The healthy old ways have a specialimportance and impact because they bring together: (1) good nutritionwith delicious foods, (2) culture and heritage, and (3) eating, shoppingand cooking. As Michael Pollan wrote in The New York Times on Sunday,October 2, 2011, “I have yet to hear of a traditional diet—from any culture,anywhere in the world—that is not substantially healthier than the “standard American diet.” The more we honor cultural differences in eating, thehealthier we will be.”The healthy old ways also have the power to bring people and communitiestogether. As Michelle Obama said about the importance of food, cultureand heritage, “Food can be a symbol of cultural identity,” it knits familiestogether. What I’ve come to appreciate is whether you’re African-American,Puerto Rican, Dominican or Cuban, food is love.”Oldways was founded in 1990 to address health issues (increasing rates ofobesity, heart disease, cancer, diabetes and other diseases of excess) andto preserve culinary traditions, helping people make healthy connections totheir food (cooking and eating real foods) and their heritage.Not content to rest on their laurels, Sortun, business partner Gary Griffinand pastry chef Kilpatrick decided they wanted to launch a more casualvenue. Three years of brainstorming later, in August of 2008, Sofra wasborn in Cambridge, Mass. This Middle Eastern bakery, café and retail shopoffers flatbread sandwiches, mezzes, prepared foods and baked goods.It has received both local and national press; Food & Wine, MetropolitanHome and Gourmet have all featured it as a place not to miss.We learned early on that change happens by motivating individuals and influencers to move in a common direction. Working throughout the world—from Australia to Brazil and from Italy to the U.S.—Oldways has collaborated with hundreds of international experts including scientists, health careprofessionals, chefs, historians, food producers and food write

cookbook authors chefs, and food retailers in Mediterranean countries. . But Turkey can lay a clear claim to a special kind of uniqueness, a kind of ‘terroir d’histoire.’ For all of recorded human history, and for a large part of pre-history, the tides of human history have ebbed and flowed through the vast,

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