INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020
INDIASUSTAINABILITYREPORT 2020S cience and S entimentA white paper byPARTNERED & SUPPORTED BY:
INDIASUSTAINABILITYREPORT 2020Sc ie nc e and S entimentA white paper by
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020INDIA AND THE WORLD’SSUSTAINABILITY MOVEMENTSix months after The Voice of Fashionlaunched in July 2018, the phrases “consumerconfusion” and “industry overstatement”around sustainability began to echo. As thefirst Indian fashion publication to devote aregular section to sustainability, we foundcuriosity laced with ambiguity amongconsumers, creators, designers, fashionhouses. It was a challenge to present crediblyreported articles without numerous factchecks as many fashion labels claimed“sustainability” practices without perhapsadhering to a basic set of scientificparameters. Confusing sustainability asanother word for crafts enterprises or thehandloom industry blurred the space further.chain exploitations and inequalities have beenbrought to the fore through awarenesscampaigns by platforms like FashionRevolution and debates at the annualCopenhagen Fashion Summit. The fashionindustry’s culpability has been unmasked.Exploitation of garment workers in developingnations, the deplorable conditions ofsweatshops, inequitable opportunities andearnings for female workers, child labour,absence of basic safeguards for health andworker safety, the use of toxic dyes and exoticanimal skins—fashion bleeds with theseconcerns.The slip is showing.If what sustainability exactly means, how it isdifferent (even when linked) from organic,natural, environmentally friendly, ethically orresponsibly produced is already confounding,there are other perplexities. India lacks acontemporary vocabulary in different regionallanguages for communication with artisangroups to help reengage with what has beenan inherent part of the Indian way of life. Weare culturally programmed to spendconservatively, reuse clothes and otherlifestyle goods, including school books anduniforms. We make manure from vegetabletrash, quilts from waste fabrics, breakfast fromleftover chappatis and so on.Yet an urgent agenda has been thrown in ourmidst with the West pounding thesustainability debate, triggered by urgencies ofinformation and reflection. Fashion is identifiedas one of the most polluting industries. SupplyWhere does India stand in this context? Isthere an East versus West debate on fastfashion that spreads like a pandemic acrossthe world through trends and collection dropsand creates environmental hazards? Or is ittime to explore a new, bold, “West and Eastfor Responsible Fashion” global charter?Today’s consumers are globally connectedafter all.India is not just another link in the world’sfashion supply chain. Its value and distinctionis critical compared to manufacturing hubs inother developing economies given theuniqueness of our crafts industries that globaland Indian fashion relies on.The Voice of Fashion leads thisfashion-specific exploration to bringsystematically researched information. It is as
3India's Hima Das celebrates winning the silver medal after the final of the women's 400m athletics event during the2018 Asian Games in Jakarta. She wore a Gamoosa, the Assamese woven textile, to commemorate the special momentImage: Jewel Samad, AFPimportant for our readers as it is for fashionhouses and individual designers who sourcefrom or make in India.This white paper compiles and analyses thefindings of a two-pronged exercise. One is aquantitative survey conducted in five Indiancities over three months among fourrespondent groups categorised byenvironmental awareness, fashion exposure,age groups and incomes. Hindi speaking,middle class respondents with limitedenvironmental consciousness were assignificant a group to study as were fashionand design students—millennials now andindustry leaders of the future.The questionnaire was designed tounderstand consumer awareness, willingnessto change or minimise, the current practice ofrecycling, vintage, rented or pre-loved fashionand whether consumers are interested in orportray commitment towards environmentalconservation and socio-economic inequalitiesbehind fashion. Surprisingly or perhaps not,almost half the respondents studied (46 percent to be exact) were not familiar withsustainability as a term associated withfashion. Yet a majority are curious, showwillingness for more information, want to alignwith environmentally conscious brands,authentication tags, even pay a little more forresponsible fashion. Of course, fashion trends,shopping as therapy, changing clothes to suitseasons and trends, impress peers and forstatus continue to be high on agenda. As isthe disposable mindset. But in theconsumerist surge, sustainability is clearlyemerging as a parallel track to jog upon. Onethat deserves its own scoreboard.
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020What might strike you is an apparent conflictbetween consumer concerns aroundsocial-economic disparities of fashion and thereluctance to delve deeper into issues likechild labour and other inequities. Theseconflicts or “consumer confusion” as we call itare perhaps a part of making friends withsustainability in a contemporary milieu.For the other half of this study, we interviewedCEOs and/ or sustainability officers of 17 topfashion and retail brands from India. Nine arerepresentatives of group of retail captains who,in August last year signed SU.RE, a charter ofcommitment towards sustainability with IMGReliance and the Clothing ManufacturersAssociation of India (CMAI).Both the consumer survey findings andindustry interviews are reproduced here. Thereare also edited excerpts, highlights, toptakeaways, photographs and infographics fora quick overview.It is time to stop perceiving India as amanufacturing hub lagging behind in the globalsustainability movement. The struggle betweeninherited complexities of our crafts andhandloom industry and persistent issues ofworker welfare, wage inequality, water andwaste management continue.But, the needle has moved.This is the first survey that maps and decodesthe change.Shefalee VasudevEditor, The Voice of FashionAsked to name sustainable fashion brands,only 17 per cent of those respondents whoclaimed brand recall brought up the following namesin tiny percentages leading to inconclusive analysis.These names only reiterate“consumer confusion”Fabindia, Adidas, Eka, Zara, Co ons, Doodlage, Good Ea h,Eileen, Everlane, Grassroot, Khadi Gram Udyog, H&M, Levi’s,Raymond, Upasana, Woolmark, I was a Sari, Puma, Amrapali,Peter England, Lifestyle, Reebok, Nike, FBB, Lee, GAP, Anokhi,Park Avenue, Pantaloons, Ikea, Anaya, People Tree, R Elan,péro, Shi by Nimish Shah, Buna Studio, Vivienne Westwood,Louis Vui on, Uniqlo, Amrich, Gurjari, Nicobar, Kilol,Ka-Sha by Karishma Shahani, Maku, John Miller,Stella McCa ney, Co-optex, Raw Mango, Bodice
5KEYNOTEUnder the leadership of Honourable Prime Minister Narendra Modi, India is at theforefront in mitigating climate change and has been one of the world leaders inadvocating sustainability. The first India Sustainability Report is a timely reflection ofIndia’s commitment towards environment protection and a pioneering work thatunderlines where Indian fashion, retail and artisanal enterprises stand in thesustainability movement of the world. It reveals consumer mindsets andmanufacturer responsibility through scientifically gathered data. It signals the wayforward for future proofing fashion and retail businesses towards environmentalcorrectness.The report will help formulate manufacturing guidelines for ethical practices, bringparity and fair trade to India’s unique crafts and handloom sector. It helpsunderstand the artisanal workforce as equal and why it is important for Indiandesigners and global brands which source from or make in India to safeguard theircreative rights, health and wages.Smt. Smriti Zubin IraniUnion Minister of Textiles & Union Minister of Women and Child Development
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020Quite honestly, when CMAI and IMG Reliance first thought of a project onsustainable fashion, we did not expect the enthusiastic response we would get fromleading brands. Many were already engaged in some activity or the other whichcould be broadly defined as an effort towards a more sustainable fashion industry. Ibelieve the SU.RE project provides a platform which could be a springboard for acomprehensive, holistic and combined effort on part of the fashion industry.The India Sustainability Report is an important first step in this direction—tounderstand what the consumer thinks and understands about sustainable fashion. Icongratulate The Voice of Fashion for undertaking this extensive research and lookforward to aligning the Industry’s response to the expectations of the consumer.Rahul MehtaChief Mentor, Clothing Manufacturing Association of India (CMAI)A prominent trend in the Indian textile and fashion industry over the past few years isto incorporate sustainable solutions in conjunction with end-consumers throughbrand and designer associations. For Lenzing, India is becoming a huge market fordomestic consumption and it is present across all major apparel categories such asethnic wear, intimate wear, general outerwear, denims and home furnishings. Theinclination to incorporate environment friendly products is strong across allcategories. From niche design labels to value retailers, our fibers are findingacceptability everywhere.S. JayaramanRegional Commercial Director (South Asia & South East Asia), Lenzing AG
7At Reliance, we constantly endeavor to instill sustainability and circularity ineverything we do. Our R&D teams strive to identify new avenues to deploy costeffective and efficient circularity concepts and enable sustainability in ourdownstream industry. Our portfolio of business ventures, based on technologyplatforms & collaborative business models like R Elan Fabric 2.0 is an excellentexample of our commitment and leadership in circular business in India–especiallyfor fashion industry. R Elan Green Gold fabric technology has one of the lowestcarbon footprints globally as it uses renewable energy, adopts a zero waste conceptand enables transparent, traceable manufacturing process. Our collaboration onSU.RE will provide thrust on usage of material in a circular manner, empowervalue-chain participation in sustainable fashion and make them partners incontributing to the quality of life of our future generations.Gunjan SharmaCMO – Polyesters, Reliance Industries Ltd.
INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
01QUANTITATIVESURVEY10Respondent Profile11Sustainability as a Choice: Awareness and Current Practices12Environmental Conciousness: The Indian Mindset13Sustainable Fashion: Perception, Information and Definition15Fashion: Why We Buy17Recycle, Upcycle, Rent, Repair and Swap23Sustainable Brands, Fabrics and Materials: The Big Reveal25Who Made My Clothes: The Indian Outlook29Pay More, Use More vs. Small Cash, Big Trash
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020RespondentProfileMETHODOLOGYTG1TG2Environment Conscious& Affluent TGNon EnvironmentConscious & Affluent TGThe consumer survey wasconducted throughquantitative structuredinterviews, ComputerAided Personal Interviews(CAPI) or online. A linkwas developed for thequestionnaire which wasadministered offline oronline.GEOGRAPHYTG3TG4Non EnvironmentConscious, Middle Class& Hindi Speaking TGStudents from ReputedFashion Design InstitutesNew Delhi, Mumbai,Bengaluru, Kolkata,AhmedabadSAMPLE SIZEThe Four Target Groups:Definition and StrategyThis is the first such consumer survey on sustainability done inIndia. The Target Groups (TG) represented here do not correspondto TG segregations defined and used in most surveymethodologies by surveying agencies or by the Ministry ofStatistics, Government of India.Clarity and affirmation of categories like “affluent andmiddle-class” were arrived through a pre-designed, stage onequestionnaire, which included questions on annual income,number of earning members, spending on fashion and otherlifestyle products, the type of car owned. Another set of basicquestions on environmental responsibility and ecological concernshelped determine “environment-conscious” and not“environment-conscious.” Those who did not fit the intendedscope of research were disqualified. Students of fashion anddesign were consciously included as strategy and choice todetermine understanding of India’s future designers and throughthem the millennial mindset.The Quantitative Survey was conducted byQualisys, a market research and consultancy firm.(ADULTS)228341TG1TG2248120TG3TG4Cumulatively, 937 adultsaged 18-60 wereinterviewed in which genderratio was 50:50. City-wisedistribution was 186 inNew Delhi, 186 in Kolkata,187 in Bengaluru,188 in Ahmedabad and190 in Mumbai.
11KEY FINDINGSSustainability as Choice:Awareness and CurrentPractices40%of the entire respondent pool saidthey only buy from eco-friendlyplatforms25%Purchasing decision of 25 percent respondents was based onthe need for a fashion productrather than what was trending65%respondents in Bengaluru said theyordered online from eco-friendlyplatforms that did not use plasticand other d usedcloth bags forshopping
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020Environmental Consciousness:The Indian Mindset61%of environment conscious, elite target group said theywere aware of their environmental footprint and takeactive steps towards itCities that have taken the mostactive measures for correcting carbon footprintand negative impact on the environmentDELHI42%KOLKATA39%BENGALURU32%Other cities lagged behind especially Mumbai where59 per cent admitted that they are yet to start takingactive measures
13Sustainable Fashion:Perception, Informationand DefinitionHave you heard the term ‘sustainable fashion’?Total93743%57%Not aware of sustainable fashionAware of sustainable fashionDo you believe the fashion industry is a major contributorto pollution?18%Consider fashion industry among top 3contributors to pollutionTotal93782%Do not consider fashion industry amongtop 3 contributors to pollution
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 202046%of the entire respondent groupacross cities, age groups and TGssaid sustainable fashion was a newconcept for them68%While 68 per cent students offashion and design definedsustainable fashion as maximizinglife of a fashion product by repair,reuse, and upcycling, only 38 percent overall used that definition85%Across all respondent groups, theawareness of the term‘sustainable fashion’ was thehighest—at 85 per cent—amongstudents of fashion and design24%82%Only 24 per cent definedSustainable Fashion asconsumption that boosts localeconomies such as handloom andhandicrafts while 26 per cent saidthat buying environmentallyfriendly clothing/footwear (such assustainably grown fiber crops orrecycled materials) meantsustainable fashion82 per cent of the total respondentsknew the difference between theterms - sustainable, organic andethical while 97 per cent studentsclaimed to clearly draw thedistinction
15Fashion: Why We Buy9%22%I cannot repeat the same clothes oraccessories after wearing it a certain numberof times even if they are in a good condition36%I need to buy new clothes, accessories tocreate a good impression amongst mypeers and social circle41%Every season I need to add new variety tomy clothes45%I buy when a new fashion trend sets in47%I do not have enough garments orfootwear or accessories and the earlierones are worn out49%I am browsing a market or mall or lookingonline and I like itTOTAL 93722%I am a shopaholic and need retail therapyfrom time to time* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so thepercentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.of the total respondents said they could not repeata garment or accessory many times even if it wasin a good condition while 36 per cent said theybought new clothes to create a good impressionon their peers and in their social circles
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 202045%77%said they shopped every time a newtrend came in, 41 per cent said theyneeded new seasonal clothesof the respondent group said theyprioritised their fashion buyingdecisions by brand name, while 80per cent said they looked forcomfort. Only 55 per cent said thatpricing was a matter of topconsideration while shopping. Only18 per cent were concerned aboutwho made their clothes when theybought9%confessed to being shopaholics andneeded retail therapy from time totimeConsumers across age groupsshop for similar reasons
17Recycle, Upcycle, Rent,Repair and SwapHow likely are you to adopt these sustainable practices?Choose from options below:22%I would prefer upcycled—garments made fromdiscarded or vintage pieces of clothing as I believethey can be better than the original45%I would like to adopt recyclable fashion—wherematerials like plastic or waste are recycled to makefabric for garment, shoes or bags49%I would like to adopt sustainable practices—wherethe fabric is sourced from natural sources likecoffee beans, bananas, or wood pulp and then madeinto garments26%None of these particularly interest meTOTAL 937* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so thepercentage total does not correspond to 100 per cent.Will you pay a little extra for extensive R&D, small batchproductions and fair wage manufacturing structures?I would not be willing to pay more for a sustainable/responsibly made fashion product as of now and willwait for prices to come down13%I would be willing to pay more sometimes for asustainable/responsibly made fashion product65%I would definitely be willing to pay more atall times if I know that these areresponsibly made fashion products22%TOTAL 937
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 202024%Among those who expressed apprehension for recycled fashion—shoes orclothes—24 per cent attributed the reasons to possible skin allergies, comfortlevel of the garment, and its effect on skin50%students of fashion and design saidthey would be happy to wear recycledgarments88%fashion students claimed to knowof Made in India brands that madegarments from recycled materials
19What do you do with your garments, once you stopwearing them?4%We have a trunk or suitcase orcloset where we park our clothes2%4%We convert theminto bags or mops ordusters for rough useI usually make suits out of mysarees or use the part I like11%40%I give them away to domesticstaff or someone needyMy parents/spouse decides.I just tell them I won’t wearthem anymore26%We usually donate them toa charitable place13%They keep lying in my cupboard for sometimewith the thought that I might wear them someday
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020A majority confessed to a disposable mindset when it came toold garments and fabrics. Recycling or upcycling to makeother usable things out of old clothes only interested6 per cent of total respondents.How often do you discard old clothes?No clear patternEvery 2-3 monthsEvery change of seasonOnce in 12-18 monthsOnce in 2-3 years orless often11%16%32%20%32%21%of the respondent group discards clothes within eighteenmonths of use. 20 per cent disposed clothes after change ofevery season while another 21 per cent said they did so every2-3 years
21Have you ever tried designer clothes on 5%65%No72%YesNoYes
TVOFINDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020How interested would yoube in trying such arental clothing service?15%Very interested34%Somewhatinterested40%11%Not sointerestedNot at all interestedWhat would motivate you touse rental services?28%To not add more clothes inmy closet and behaveresponsibly60%To not spend on expensivegarments which are usuallyone time wear49%To get to wear new clothesevery time without repeatingthem47%To get the style and designnot available easily otherwise43%To afford expensive designerclothes* This was a multiple choice questionnaire so thepercentage total does not
TVOF INDIA SUSTAINABILITY REPORT 2020 Respondent Profile Environment Conscious & Affluent TG Non Environment-Conscious & Affluent TG TG1 TG2 Non Environment-Conscious, Middle Class & Hindi Speaking TG Students from Reputed Fashion Design Institutes TG3 TG4 This is the rst such consumer survey on sustainability done in India.
Council For Scientific And Industrial Research - CSIR, India Government of India, India Indian Council of Medical Research, India Indian Department of Atomic Energy, India Ministry of Electronics and Information Technology of India, India Ministry of Health and Family Welfare of India, India Ministry of Science and Technology of India, India
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