HO-103 Indoor Plants

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University of KentuckyCollege of Agriculture,Food and EnvironmentHO-103Cooperative Extension ServiceIndoor PlantsKentucky Master Gardener Manual Chapter 14By George Pinyuh, extension agent emeritus, King and Pierce counties; E. Blair Adams, extension horticulturist (deceased); Arthur L.Antonelli, extension entomologist; and S.J. Collman, extension agent emeritus; all of Washington State University. Adapted for use inKentucky by Sharon Bale, extension horticulture specialist.In this chapter:Management.191Potting and Repotting.194Houseplant Problems.198Cultivating plants inside the home is both a popular hobbyand an interior decorating technique. More than 75 percentof all American families use living plants as part of theirhome decor or cultural expression.To keep plants healthy and attractive, you must control a number of environmental factors such as light, temperature, humidity,water, and plant nutrients. The right combination results in healthyplants. Too much or too little of any factor results in poor planthealth or death.A houseplant is simply an outdoor plant that is grown indoors.Not all plants are suitable for indoor culture. Some require environmental conditions that are impossible to duplicate indoors. Othersadapt to indoor culture if their minimum growth requirementsare provided. The key to successful indoor plant culture is to selectplants that are adaptable to the conditions in your home.The normal home provides a number of different environments. Light varies from sunny windows to dim corners. Plants inliving areas receive long hours of light (either natural or artificial)year-round, but those in bedrooms normally receive only minimalsupplemental light. Humidity usually is much higher in kitchensand bathrooms than in living rooms. Temperatures vary widely. Theoverall climate may range from humid subtropical to arid desert invarious locations.ManagementThe environmental factors of light, temperature, and humidityare to a large extent determined by how you manage your homeenvironment for family comfort. Other environmental factors, suchas water and nutrient availability, can be managed solely for yourplants’ sake. By selecting the best site for each plant and managingthe supply of water and nutrients, it is possible to grow most common houseplants in any home.Each plant has its own set of desired environmental conditions.There are many sources of information for specific cultural requirements. Check with the store that supplied the plant or with localcounty extension agents. Houseplant books (there are hundreds,many available at libraries), and garden encyclopedias (also available at libraries) are also a source of information.Cooperative Extension Service Agriculture and Natural Resources Family and Consumer Sciences 4-H Youth Development Community and Economic Development

192 Indoor PlantsChapter 14LightPerhaps the major environmental factorlimiting plant growth indoors is lack of adequate light. As natural light enters homes, itdecreases very quickly. For example, a plant1 foot away from a window may receive100 foot-candles of light. If it is moved 2feet away from the window, it will receiveonly 25 foot-candles of light. At 3 feet itreceives only 11 foot-candles, and very few,if any, houseplants do well at such low lightintensities.The most expedient method of adjustinglight intensity is to move the plant closerto or farther from a light source such as awindow. Unfortunately, this may place theplant in an inconvenient spot.In general, a plant needs an environment as similar as possible to that in whichit grows naturally. Understory plants (thosethat live on the forest floor) can grow in diffuse light. Plants from deserts or other openenvironments require strong light. Tropicaland subtropical species generally do bestin humid conditions, and desert speciesrequire arid conditions. Cool-climate species prefer cool nights and warm days, whiletropical species prefer warm temperaturesat all times. Learn about the specific plantsyou are growing (or plan to acquire) andplace them in a location that provides thebest combination of environmental factorsfor their needs.Cultivating houseplants is enjoyable andrewarding. The basic culture is not difficult,and most plants require only a few minutesof attention each week once their basicenvironmental requirements are satisfied.They do, however, require this minimal careon a regular basis. Plants are living thingsand must be managed so that their life-support systems function properly at all times.The following sections discuss severalimportant aspects of plant care.To increase light intensity you can: Moving the plant to a lighter room(southern versus northern exposure) Placing the plant near an electric light Providing separate artificial light for theplant Providing reflected light with a lightcolored wall or mirror Keeping leaves free of dust and grimeTo reduce light intensity you can: Place a lace curtain between the plantand window Use venetian blinds to intercept anddivert direct sunlight Reduce reflected light with a darkbackdrop Shade the plant with another plant Move the plant back from a strong lightsource (for example, a south-facingwindow)TemperatureHome temperatures are adjusted for thecomfort of people, but temperatures varyconsiderably in most homes. Bedroomsusually are cooler than bathrooms or livingareas. Southern-exposure rooms usuallyare warmer during the day than northernexposure rooms. Fortunately, most plantstolerate a fairly broad range of temperaturesand thrive at normal home temperatures ifother environmental factors are satisfactory.

Indoor Plants 193Chapter 14HumidityMany plants require a more humidclimate than the average home. Ferns, ivies,and other humid-climate plants may growbest in bathrooms or kitchens, where theair usually is more humid. You can increaserelative humidity around a plant by placing its pot on a shallow tray of moist gravel(Figure 1a). The gravel will evaporate waterinto the air around the plants.Damp sphagnum moss packed betweenpots in planters also evaporates water intothe air (Figure 1b). Moss has the addedadvantage of acting like a wick to draw upand dispose of excess water in the bottom ofthe planter box.Figure 1. Two ways toincrease humidity arounda plant: (a) A layer ofmoist gravel or pebblesin a tray beneath the potand (b) a pot inside alarge planter filled withmoistened sphagnumpeat moss.a) Gravelb) Sphagnum mossGrouping plants together in the sameroom raises the relative humidity for all.Plants transpire (emit moisture) water continuously. The more plants you grow, themore water they transpire into the air.A humidifier is another way to raisehumidity. The higher relative humidity thatplants prefer also is healthier for people.Misting plants does not significantlyincrease humidity. It may, however, helpkeep leaves clean, which also is desirable.WaterWatering is the most important (andmost often abused) cultural practice. Plantsmust have a continuous and adequate supply of water, but they can absorb water fromthe soil only under certain conditions.First, there must be available water inthe soil. Soil particles hold some watertoo firmly for plants to take up. The wateravailable to plants is water in excess of thatrequired to satisfy the soil itself. The quantity and type of soil mix will determine howmuch water the pot retains for plant use.Second, some air must be in the soil forplant roots to function and absorb water.Therefore, the soil must not contain somuch water that no room is left for air. Agood potting soil will not hold too muchwater if a hole in the bottom of the container allows excess water to drain away.The difference between these twoextremes (no available water versus saturated soil) is called the available water supply. Proper water management avoids bothextremes and maintains a supply of available water at all times.The following guidelines may help youestablish a satisfactory watering schedule: Use a well-prepared potting soil to assuregood water-retention capacity as well asspace for air. Make sure containers have at least onedrainage hole so excess water can drainaway. When watering, apply enough water torun out the drainage hole. This usuallyassures that you have replenished theavailable water supply and also reducessalt buildup. Do not let pots sit in excess water. Pourit away or raise pots so they always areabove the level of drained-out water inthe saucer. Do not water on a time schedule. Allowthe soil to become dry on the surfacebefore you water again. This methodmaintains a good balance of air andwater in the soil. If some plants require frequent watering,move them into slightly larger pots (withgreater water-holding capacity). Some plants, such as desert cacti andsucculents, should be watered only alittle, if at all, during the short days ofwinter. With the exception of seedlingsand very young plants, these plants needno water from about mid-November tomid-March. Most cacti and many succulents are best kept bone-dry and quitecool during the winter.

194 Indoor PlantsChapter 14 Highly organic soils are difficult to rewetonce they dry out. They also tend toshrink away from container sides. Thiscan allow water to run between the soiland the inside of the pot without evermoistening the soil. If this happens, submerge the entire pot in water until themedium is fully moistened. Flush soluble salts from pots on a regularbasis, about every six months. Waterthree times at 30-minute intervals towash salts out the drainage hole.Keep these additional factors in mindwhen watering: Chlorine in tap water will not harmplants. Fluoride in tap water can damage sensitive plants. (See Table 1.) Room-temperature water is best. Plantssuch as African violets and their relativesmay require even warmer water.NutrientsPlants growing in containers have alimited volume of soil from which to extractmineral nutrients (fertilizer). The supply ofnutrients rapidly becomes exhausted whenthe plant is actively growing. Replenishnutrients regularly. The easiest way is towater them in with a solution of solublefertilizer.Many soluble fertilizers are available ingarden stores. Since they vary in strength(percent of fertilizer nutrients), dilute ordissolve them in your watering can according to the label directions. Mix only enoughsolution to water your plants once eachtime you fertilize.During the long days of the year (Easterto Thanksgiving), when plants are activelygrowing, fertilize about every otherweek. During the short days of the year(Thanksgiving to Easter), fertilize only every4 to 6 weeks. If plants are totally dormant,do not fertilize until new growth starts.Here are some fertilizing hints: Slow or time-release fertilizers are a goodway to fertilize houseplants. Follow labeldirections. Plants grow best with small amounts ofnutrients constantly available. Do not apply fertilizers to dry soil. Do not overfertilize. More is not better.Plants can die from too much fertilizer.It’s better to underdo than overdo. Both organic and synthetic fertilizers areacceptable sources of plant nutrients.Potting and RepottingCultivating plants in containers requiresoccasional replanting from one containerto another. Small, rapidly growing plantsmay require repotting into larger containersevery three to four months. You can repotmature houseplants on an annual basis orallow them to remain in containers untilthey have outgrown them or become potbound (Figure 2). If a plant is not doing well,and no obvious reason can be found, it maybenefit from repotting.Handle plants carefully when pottingor repotting to avoid injury and to provideoptimum growth in the new container.When transplanting, consider such factorsas size and condition of the plant, size andtype of container, type and amount of soilmixture, and prevention of damage to theplant.Figure 2. If roots are growing out of the drainage hole,it’s time to repot.

Indoor Plants 195Chapter 14Table 1.—Houseplant problem symptoms, possible causes, and treatments.Symptoms (what you see)Plants are spindly, stems grow abnormallylong. Leaves lack color, are undersized, andmay fall off.Old leaves curl under. New leaves are smallerthan old leaves. Leaves may brown aroundmargins.Yellow, brown, or white (bleached) spots onleaves (particularly on upper leaves).Leaves turn yellow, curl downward, or wilt.Possible causesToo little lightTreatment (corrective action)Move plant closer to a window or other light source.Don’t fertilize when plants are dormant (winter).Too much lightMove plant farther from window or light source, orfilter light through a curtain.Sun scorch caused bysudden increase in lightintensityToo much heatShade plant. Move plants from shade to sun graduallyso they can adapt. Some always require shade.Plants wilt even if soil is moist. Margins andSalt buildup in soiltips of leaves burn. White crust may appear onleaf edges and on the soil surface when dry.White crust on rim and sides of porous pots. Salt accumulation on potLeaves touching rim wilt and die.Move plant to a cooler spot. Avoid placing plants nearheat registers or hot-air outlets.Water three times at 30-minute intervals to wash thesalts out the drainage hole. Do not use soft water.Leach soil as above. Wash excess salts off pot withclear water. Wax the rim of the pot to prevent futuresalt deposits that might touch leaves.White or yellow spots on leaves of African vio- Cold water on leaves or in Use room-temperature to luke-warm water for waterlets, gloxinias, and other hairy-leafed plants. soiling plants.Dark brown spots around leaf margins of trop- Raw natural gas or incom- Check gas lines and fittings for gas leaks. Adjust gasical foliage plants (especially philodendrons). pletely burned gas in home burners for blue flame. Have furnace checked for leaksor adjustments.Plants wilt between waterings, roots fill potPlant is too big for its potRepot in a larger container with a good potting soiland may grow out drainage hole. Growthmixture.slow.Sudden wilting or shedding of foliage during ChillingMove plant away from chilling drafts.cold weather.Wilting and loss of foliage after repotting orTransplant shockGive optimum care until plant adjusts to its newinitial potting.situation.Tips of leaves turn brown, and leaves wilt.Not enough waterWater until some water runs out the drainage hole, orLower leaves turn yellow and fall off.submerge the pot in a pail of water for five minutes.Drain off excess water. Repeat when soil is dry totouch.Lower leaves curl and wilt. Stems becomeToo much waterWater less frequently. Use pots with drainage holes inmushy and rot. Soil in pot usually is wet.the bottom. Do not allow pot to stand in water morethan 30 minutes.Leaf edges are crinkly and brown. Tips of new Lack of humidityIncrease humidity around plants by standing pots onleaves often dry up.a bed of moist gravel or placing them in planters withmoist sphagnum moss packed around the pots. Use ahumidifier or move plants to a more humid area (suchas a bathroom or over the kitchen sink).Plants grow rapidly with lots of foliage butToo much fertilizerFertilize less often or at half the suggested rate. Usefew, if any, flowers.low-nitrogen fertilizer during blooming season. Donot fertilize when plants are dormant.Lower leaves lose color and may drop off. New Too little fertilizerFertilize regularly when plants are growing. Use aleaves are progressively smaller than previoussoluble fertilizer and apply per package directions.leaves. Stems are stunted.Brown or black spots on leaves. Tip and mar- Fluoride in water supplyUse rain or distilled water. Keep pH up to 6.5.ginal burning. Spider plants (Chlorophytum),corn plants (Dracaena), and palms are especially sensitive.

196 Indoor PlantsChapter 14Plant SizeContainer SizeSmall plants transplant more easilythan larger ones; however, any plant thatalready is established in a container canbe repotted. When first planting into pots,select small plants so you do not have toremove many roots to fit the plant into thecontainer. Pot rooted cuttings when theroots are about 1 2 inch long. Seedling plantstransplant most readily as soon as the firsttrue leaves have formed.Normally it is best to keep a plant in thesmallest container needed for its currentstage of development. This practice conserves growing space, reduces the likelihood of overwatering, allows for gradualincreases in pot size (and new soil) as theplant develops, generally looks better (smallplants in large pots look lost), and allowsmore versatility in moving plants or arranging them in groups.Adjust container size to manage irrigation schedules. Move plants that need morefrequent watering to larger pots with morewater storage capacity.Plant ConditionMost plants transplant best when theyare actively growing. Dormant plants orthose in flower may not produce rootgrowth and establish themselves in the newpot as readily. Plants should not be wiltedwhen transplanted. Be sure your plantsare well watered and free of insects beforerepotting.Container TypePlants can be grown in almost anycontainer, but it is best to use containerswith drainage holes. To establish plants indecorative containers without drainageholes, pot the plants in draining pots that fitinside the other containers. You can combine several small pots in a larger planter bypacking sphagnum moss around the sides ofthe pots for support and to help evaporateexcess water. Clay pots are no better thanplastic ones, but porous and nonporouspots require different management. For onething, soil in clay pots dries more rapidlyand requires more frequent watering thanthat in plastic pots.Potting Soil MixturesPlants growing in containers requirespecially prepared soils or growth media.A container-grown plant cannot extend itsroot system to gather water and nutrients,but is limited to the small volume of soil inthe container. Potted plants use the soil intheir pots much more intensively than theywould if growing unrestrained outdoors.Even the most fertile garden soil will notsustain this intensive use for more than ashort time.Ready-to-use potting soil mixes are available in garden stores. Some of these commercially prepared potting soils are excellent but expensive. If you have only a fewhouseplants, prepared mixes are convenientand probably the most practical. However,if you grow numerous houseplants, it maybe more economical to prepare your ownpotting soil.Good potting soil differs from gardensoil. It should contain a much higherproportion of coarse mineral particles tomaintain sufficient pore spaces in the soilfor air, water, and root growth. It must haveenough organic matter to hold water andcondition the soil (keep it from compacting). It also must contain sufficient mineralnutrients to supply a large part of the plants’needs. (All houseplants need supplementalfertilizer on a regular basis.)

Indoor Plants 197Chapter 14Good potting soils can be prepared bymixing garden soil, coarse sand, pumice orperlite, and peat moss. Most potted plantsgrow quite well in a mix containing equalparts of these ingredients if you adjust management techniques (watering and fertilizing) to suit their different needs. You canmodify this general potting mixture withadditional coarse mineral material or peatmoss to satisfy specific plant requirements.Instructions are given below.Desert plant mix 1 part general potting mixture 1 part sand or coarse perliteCacti and other succulents grow bestin a soil mixture with a lower proportionof organic matter that dries rapidly and,therefore, does not retain large quantitiesof water. Mix the general soil mix with anequal volume of sand or perlite to createan appropriate potting mixture for theseplants.General mixture 1 part garden soil (not clay) 1 part washed builder’s sand, perl

Houseplant books (there are hundreds, many available at libraries), and garden encyclopedias (also avail-able at libraries) are also a source of information. Indoor Plants Kentucky Master Gardener Manual Chapter 14 By George Pinyuh, extension agent emeritus, King and Pierce counties; E. Blair Adams, extension horticulturist (deceased); Arthur L .

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