REPAIR MANUAL - Country Doctor, LTD

REPAIR MANUALFINISH CUT44” & 60” TRAIL MOWERSSwisher Mower CoWarrensburg, MO

LIMITED WARRANTYThe manufacturer’s warranty to the original consumer purchaser is: This productis free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) yearfrom the date of purchase by the original consumer purchaser. We will repair orreplace, at our discretion, parts found to be defective due to materials orworkmanship. This warranty is subject to the following limitations andexclusions:1) Engine WarrantyAll engines utilized on our products have a separatewarranty extended to them by the individual enginemanufacturer. Any engine service difficulty is theresponsibility of the engine manufacturer and in noway is Swisher Mower Co., Inc. or its agentsresponsible for the engine warranty. The Briggs &Stratton Engine Service Hot-Line is 1-800-2333723. The Tecumseh Engine Service Hot-Line is 1800-558-5402.2) Commercial UseThe warranty period for this product used forcommercial or rental is limited to ninety (90) daysfrom the date of original purchase.3) LimitationsThis warranty applies only to products which havebeen properly assembled, adjusted, and operated inaccordance with the instructions contained withinthis manual. This warranty does not apply to anyproduct of Swisher Mower Co., Inc., that has beensubject to alteration, misuse, abuse, improperassembly or installation, shipping damage, or tonormal wear of the product.4) ExclusionsExcluded from this warranty are normal wear,normal adjustments, and normal maintenance.In the event you have a claim under this warranty, you must return the product toan authorized service dealer. All transportation charges, damage, or loss incurredduring transportation of parts submitted for replacement or repair under thiswarranty shall be borne by the purchaser. Should you have any questionsconcerning this warranty, please contact us toll-free at 1-800-222-8183. Themodel number, serial number, date of purchase, and the name of the authorizedSwisher dealer from whom you purchased the mower will be needed before anywarranty claim can be processed.

TABLE OF CONTENTS1.If engine won’t crank – T602.Wiring diagrams – T603.If engine won’t crank – Polaris brand4.Won’t crank – Polaris brand (cont)5.If PTO clutch will not engage – Polaris brand6.Engine cranks but won’t start7.Identification of wiring8.T44 – If engine won’t crank9.T44 – If engine won’t crank (cont)10. Starting problems on the recoil start T4411. Engine electrical components12. Belt replacement – T6013. Belt and associated parts – T4414. Repairing or replacing blade driver15. Replacement parts – quick guide

IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK***T60ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRSTTEST #1TEST #2If engine did crank in test #1,disconnect green wire at spadeconnector and apply positivevoltage from the battery to theyellow wire with the orangestripe. The positive voltage canalso be picked up on thesolenoid terminal where thefuse connects. Make sure thegreen and black wire with theeyelet is well grounded. Ifengine doesn’t crank now,replace the solenoid.Remember, all other tests areuseless unless these two testsmake the engine turn over.Using a remote starterswitch or a suitabledevice, make a connectionbetween the largeterminals on the solenoid.If engine does notcrank!!! Battery may be weak ordead Starter may be bad Battery cables may havebad connections Do not go to Test #2until this test gives results.TEST #3If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnectgreen wire to solenoid. Using a jumper wire attached tothe positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to thered wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try tocrank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, thefuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defectivesomewhere back to the solenoid.TEST #4If engine did not crank in test #3, this time move thejumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the battery,to the green wire on S terminal of the ignition switch.Ignition switch does have to be activated for this test. Ifengine cranks now, ignition switch needs replacing.1

WIRING DIAGRAMS2

IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK***POLARIS BRANDALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRSTTEST #1TEST #2If engine did crank in test #1,disconnect green wire at spadeconnector and apply positivevoltage from the battery to theyellow wire with the orangestripe. The positive voltage canalso be picked up on thesolenoid terminal where thefuse connects. Make sure thegreen and black wire with theeyelet is well grounded. Ifengine doesn’t crank now,replace the solenoid.Remember, all other tests areuseless unless these two testsmake the engine turn over.Using a remote starterswitch or a suitabledevice, make a connectionbetween the largeterminals on the solenoid.If engine does notcrank!!! Battery may be weak ordead Starter may be bad Battery cables may havebad connections Do not go to Test #2until this test gives results.TEST #3If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnectgreen wire to solenoid. Make sure the PTO switch is off.Using a jumper wire attached to the positive terminal ofthe battery, apply 12 volts to the red wire on terminal Bof the ignition switch. Try to crank, using the ignitionswitch. If engine cranks, the fuse or the fuse holder, orrelated wiring is defective somewhere back to thesolenoid.TEST #4If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the PTOswitch is in the off position. This time move the jumperwire, attached to the positive terminal of the battery, to thegreen wire on the S terminal of the ignition switch. If allcomponents in the circuit are working, the engine shouldcrank. If it doesn’t, move on to the next test.3

WON’T CRANK***POLARIS BRAND (CONTINUED)With PTO switch in the offposition, meter should go to zerowhen checking continuity acrossthese two terminals.If the PTO switch tested bad, install a new one and perform Test #4 again. If the switch isgood, a connecting wire must be at fault. Check all connection on the green wire all theway back to the starter solenoid. Don’t move past Test #4 until it assures a good circuit.When you do get good results, hook all wires back to original position and try the ignitionswitch again. If no results, you will need to replace the ignition switch. Again remember,this is only after Test #4 gives positive results.4

IF PTO CLUTCH WILL NOT ENGAGE***POLARIS BRANDApply a negative ground to this terminalApply 12 Volts to this terminal. Clutch shouldactivate, if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.If clutch checks OK, use a voltmeter to measure for12 volts at the brown wire’s terminal. First turnignition switch to the ON position but don’t start theengine. Now engage the PTO switch. For the first testput the negative probe on a good ground, not on thewhite wire’s terminal in the plug. If no voltage ismeasured, move on to next test.The problem may be a poor ground on the white wirein the clutch plug. Check by testing for continuity toground or check for voltage between the twoterminals. If no voltage is measured, move on to nexttest.Some of our clutches have a different receptacle forthe wiring harness, but the testing is the same. Thewhite wire is always the negative terminal and thebrown wire is the positive.With the PTO switch ON there should be continuitybetween these two connectors, if not, replace switch.If switch tested good, check wires and connectorsback to ignition switch and back to clutch plug.5

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T STARTChecks for electrical problems While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on thecarburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor. Try a new spark plug. Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded. Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probablydefective.Checks for mechanical problems Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on. Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor. If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly. If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove andclean the carburetor.ENGINE WIRING SYSTEMUsed on the T60Orange is not used in this applicationBlack wire comes from the ignitionswitch and goes to the ignition moduleto shut engine off.Gray wire goes to the fuel solenoid.Red wire comes from engine’s alternator through adiode to convert the voltage from AC to DC. A simpletest to check its output is to measure the voltage of thebattery before the engine is started. Now start theengine, the voltage should rise about 1 volt when theengine starts. This voltage will slowly drop back tonormal voltage as the battery becomes fully charged.6Alternatorcharge wireon the T12544

IDENTIFICATION OF WIRINGWIRING HARNESS AT STARTER SOLENOIDGrounded white wire goesback to the ignitionswitch.Yellow and orange wirefrom solenoid connects tothe green wire that goes tothe ignition switch.Large red wire goes to thepositive terminal of thebattery.Green and orange wiregoes to chassis ground.In line 5 amp fuse.Large red wire goes to theengine starter.Red wire goes to theengine plug and throughto the alternator on theengine.Red wire goes through thefuse and on to the ignitionswitch.Red wire goes to thesame terminal onsolenoid as thepositive battery cable.Black wire goes to theignition switchWIRING HARNESSPLUG TO ENGINEGray wire goes to theignition switch.NOTEEngine plug is used only on theBriggs engines. On the Hondaand Kohler engines the red wireand black wire go directly to theengine. The gray wire is notused on the engines that have nofuel solenoid on the carburetor.WIRING HARNESS PLUG AT IGNITIONOne black wire goes to theToggle switch and the othergoes to the engine plugGreen wire goes to the startersolenoid.Red wire goes to the fuse andthen on to the battery positive atthe solenoid terminal.Gray wire goes to the fuelsolenoid on the carburetor.Gray wire not used on theengines that have no fuelsolenoid on the carburetor.White wire goes to chassisground.7

T44***IF ENGINE WON’T CRANKALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRSTTEST #2If engine did crank in test #1,disconnect green wire at spadeconnector and apply positivevoltage from the battery to theyellow wire with the orangestripe. The positive voltage canalso be picked up on thesolenoid terminal where thefuse connects. Make sure thegreen and black wire with theeyelet is well grounded. Ifengine doesn’t crank now,replace the solenoid.Remember, all other tests areuseless unless these two testsmake the engine turn over.TEST #1Using a remote starter switch or a suitable device, makea connection between the large terminals on thesolenoid. If engine does not crank!!! Battery may be weak or dead Starter may be bad Battery cables may have bad connections Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results.TEST #3If engine did crank in the firstpart of test #2, reconnect greenwire to solenoid. Make sure theblades are disengaged. Using ajumper wire attached to thepositive terminal of the battery,apply 12 volts to the red wire onterminal B of the ignitionswitch. Try to crank, using theignition switch. If engine cranks,the fuse or the fuse holder, orrelated wiring is defectivesomewhere back to the solenoid.TEST #4If engine did not crank intest #3, make sure theblades are disengaged.This time move thejumper wire, attached tothe positive terminal ofthe battery, to the greenwire on the S terminal ofthe ignition switch. If allcomponents in the circuitare working, the engineshould crank. If it doesn’t,move on to the next test.8