The Fashion Book - Phaidon

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The Fashion Book

The new edition of The Fashion Book takes a fresh look at thePhaidon Press LimitedRegent’s WharfAll Saints StreetLondon N1 9PAfashion world and the people who created and inspired it. SpanningPhaidon Press Inc.180 Varick StreetNew York, NY 10014nearly two centuries, the whole industry is represented; pioneeringwww.phaidon.comdesigners Coco Chanel and Issey Miyake are joined by new figuresFirst published 1998Second edition (revised,expanded and updated)published in 2013 2013 Phaidon Press Limitedsuch as Alexander Wang and Phoebe Philo at the vanguard of theindustry today, alongside influential photographers from RichardISBN 978 0 7148 6557 7Avedon, Helmut Newton, Mert & Marcus and Terry Richardson.A CIP catalogue record for thisbook is available from the BritishLibrary.Filled with iconic and inspirational images, it is an A–Z guide of overAll rights reserved. No partof this publication may bereproduced, stored in a retrievalsystem or transmitted, in anyform or by any means, electronic,mechanical, photocopying,recording or otherwise, withoutthe prior permission of PhaidonPress Limited.570 clothing and accessory designers, photographers, stylists, models,editors and those key figures who instigated or symbolize a wholefashion movement. It cuts through the usual classifications by creatingDesigned by Julia HastingJacket by Mats Gustafsonjuxtapositions that make fascinating and unlikely partnerships: thePrinted in Singaporeexotic Lady Gaga sits opposite Christian Lacroix while Tom Fordand wunderkind Nicola Formichetti rub shoulders. Each entry isaccompanied by an image which illustrates a key aspect of their work,AbbreviationsALG AlgeriaARG ArgentinaASL AustraliaAUS AustriaBEL BelgiumBR BrazilCAN CanadaCHN ChinaCI Canary IslandsCOL ColumbiaCRO CroatiaCU CubaCYP CyprusCZ Czech RepublicDOM Dominican RepublicDK DenmarkEG EgyptFR FranceGER GermanyGHA GhanaGR GreeceHK Hong KongHUN HungaryIRE IrelandIT ItalyJAM JamaicaJAP JapanKEN KenyaKOR KoreaLIB LibyaLUX LuxembourgMAL MalaysiaMEX MexicoMON MonacoMOR MoroccoNL NetherlandsNZ New ZealandPER PeruPOL PolandPR Puerto RicoROM RomaniaRUS RussiaSA South AfricaSER SerbiaSING SingaporeSP SpainSW SwitzerlandSWE SwedenSYR SyriaTUN TunisiaTUR TurkeyUK United KingdomUSA United States of Americaalongside a short text that includes essential information about thecreator and their influence. In addition, THE FASHION BOOK usesa comprehensive cross-referencing system and index that highlightthe many collaborations and connections across the fashion industry,that singular business that lies between the history and tradition of thepast, is constantly being pushed into the future by the avant-garde.

Abbe JamesJames Abbe’s choice of a simple, uncluttered backdrop andsoft use of lighting accentuates the seductiveness of GildaGray, a dancer in Ziegfeld Follies and other Broadway revues.Like many fashion photographs of its time, it promotes afeeling that we are privy to something intimate – as if Grayhas been captured unawares, dreamily caught up in her ownPhotographerthoughts with her eyes turned away from the lens. Taken inParis in 1924, the photograph seizes the essence of mid-1920seveningwear – a plumb line dress, possibly by Lanvin or Patou,in filmy, sensuous fabric trimmed with fringed tiers. In theearly twentieth century, American photographer James Abbefavoured taking portraits of stage and screen actresses. Hiswell-mannered work for American Vogue represented whatAlexander Liberman called ‘ an underlying dream of a worldwhere people act and behave in a civilized manner’. Lanvin, Liberman, PatouAbboud JosephA Mao jacket cut from rough linen is worn over a hand-knittedwaistcoat and collarless shirt. The buttons on each garmenthave a natural, artisanal quality that defies the urban slantused by most American designers. Of Lebanese descent,Joseph Abboud makes clothes for men and women that arean unusual combination of American sportswear and NorthDesignerAfrican colours and textures. In the 1960s Abboud collectedTurkish kilims and these have inspired his natural paletteand the stylized symbols that recur in his work. He began hiscareer as a buyer and in 1981 joined Ralph Lauren, later tobecome associate director of menswear design. He emergedfour years later with a similar philosophy to Lauren: that4clothing is as much about lifestyle as it is about design. In1986 Abboud launched his own label and found a niche forhis understated clothes with their rich colours and unusuallycrafted textures. Alfaro, Armani, Lauren, Ozbek5James Abbe. b Alfred, ME (USA), 1883. d San Francisco, CA (USA), 1973. Gilda Gray, Paris. 1924.Joseph Abboud. b Boston, MA (USA), 1950. Linen menswear, spring/summer 1995. Photograph by Randall Mesdon.

Ackermann HaiderReclining like a languorous odalisque in a Lord Leightontableau, the model in this photograph exudes a dissolute air ofexotic luxury, very much in keeping with mood of HaiderAckermann’s spring/summer 2011 collection presented at thePalazzo Pitti in Florence. A Silk-Road fantasy seen through apipe-smoke haze, male and female silhouettes alike featuredDesignerin rich silks and satins, dhoti pants and kimono collars. Bornin Colombia, Ackermann had a peripatetic childhood, growingup in cities across Europe and Africa. Now based in Antwerp,his collections are often informed by a strong sense of placeand what the designer describes as ‘errance’ – a kind ofwandering sensibility. His garments for women are prized fortheir expert draping in soft leather and suede, heavy satins,jersey and silk, and for the sensual androgyny of hissilhouettes, beautifully typified by the actress Tilda Swintonwith whom the designer’s style is strongly associated. Demeulemeester, Margiela, Owens, SwintonAdolfoThis impromptu snap of society figures Mr and Mrs WyattCooper is one of Adolfo’s favourite pictures, and not justbecause both are wearing his refined clothes. He says, ‘Gettingdressed and going out is fun only because we don’t do it often– it’s good to feel glamorous once in a while.’ But his glamournever strays into the realms of vulgarity. Adolfo worked firstDesigneras a milliner, then trained at Chanel and Balenciaga, beforesetting up his New York salon. There, Adolfo provided hisfamous knitted suits, one of which is worn here by GloriaCooper (aka Gloria Vanderbilt). Inspired by Coco Chanel’sjersey sportswear and iconic suits, they were bought by NewYork’s old society. When his salon closed in 1993 his clientele6were distraught, not least Nancy Reagan, who had wornAdolfo’s clothes for two decades. She, perhaps more thananyone, embodied his assertion that, ‘An Adolfo lady shouldlook simple, classic and comfortable.’ Balenciaga, Chanel, Galanos, Vanderbilt7Haider Ackermann. b Santa Fé de Bogotá (COL), 1971. Haider Ackermann Pitti Uomo Portfolio, 2011. Photograph by Erik Madigan Heck.Adolfo (Adolfo Sardina). b Havana (CU), 1933. Mr and Mrs Wyatt Cooper. Photograph by Bill Cunningham, American Vogue, 1972.

Adrian GilbertJoan Crawford wears Adrian’s famed ‘coat hanger look’: asuit with padded shoulders and slim skirt that produces an‘inverted triangle’ silhouette that has since intermittentlyreturned to fashion – not least in the 1980s. Here, that shapeis exaggerated further by triangular lapels that reach overthe shoulders and taper, pointing at the waist. As Adrian toldDesignerLife magazine in 1947, ‘American women’s clothes shouldbe streamlined in the daytime.’ He is also known for long,elegantly draped dinner gowns, like those he designed for JoanCrawford in Grand Hotel (1932), and for his silver satin biascut dresses for starlet Jean Harlow. As a costume designer atMetro-Goldwyn-Mayer in the 1930s and 1940s, Adrian – bornAdolphus Greenburg – found a vast audience for his work andbecame an influential fashion designer. In 1942 he retired as acostume designer to open his own fashion house, continuingto create his trademark suits and gowns. Garbo, Irene, Orry-Kelly, Platt LynesAghion Gaby (Chloé)Chloé, a name synonymous with feminine modernity,was conceived by Egyptian-born designer Gaby Aghion,establishing the label in 1952 with her business partnerJacques Lenoir. With a free spirited and independent heroinein mind, Aghion rejected the structured silhouette of thetime, approaching ready-to-wear with the finesse and detailDesignerof haute couture. Despite a succession of notable designers –Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo – Chloéretains an ethereal, youthful femininity. With Lagerfeld atthe helm from 1965 to 1983, Chloé came into commercialrecognition, whilst keeping with the flower-child mood of theera. Stella McCartney, as head designer from 1997, offered aplayful femininity in her design approach. Chloé is now aninternational brand owned by Richemont with a diffusion lineand perfume ranges. With Clare Waight Keller joining in 2011as creative director, the brand continues to grow. Bailly, Lagerfeld, McCartney, Paulin, Sitbon, Steiger89Gilbert Adrian (Adolphus Greenburg). b Naugatuck, CT (USA), 1903. d Los Angeles, CA (USA), 1959. Joan Crawford. c.1940.Gaby Aghion. b Alexandria (EG), 1921. (Chloé.) ‘Rachmaninoff ’ dress, Chloé spring/summer 1973 sketch by Karl Lagerfeld, on show at Restaurant Laurent, Paris. Photograph by Jean-Luce Huré.

cut dresses for starlet Jean Harlow. As a costume designer at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer in the 1930s and 1940s, Adrian – born Adolphus Greenburg – found a vast audience for his work and became an influential fashion designer. In 1942 he retired as a costume designer to open his own fashion house, continuing to create his trademark suits and gowns.

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