EPOXYWORKS
FREEEPOXYWORKS BUILDING, RESTORATION & REPAIR with EPOXYFall 2014Number 39
EPOXYWORKS In this issueIn This IssueDrumming in Circles1Smiles All Around5Building drums can be just as therapeutic as playing them.Tom explains how he built a beautiful wood strip drum.Catalina sailboats are prone to developing cracking onthe keel know as the "Catalina Smile". This is easily fixedwith a little bit of G/flex.Flying Dutchman RestorationA 1950's International Flying Dutchman Class sailboatis restored to award winning shape by readerDouglas Heckrotte.Simple, effective home repairs and projectsBruce shares some ideas of what to do with yourleftover epoxy.Controlling ExothermLarge pours of epoxy can generate a lot of heat, butthese tips can help you control exotherm.671012When the Cat's Away16Strings Centerboard Adjustment18A piece of wall artwork crashes to the ground andbreaks. Some creative thinking leads to a seamlessrepair job.Leveling the heads of self jibing centerboards is not aneasy task, but Greg comes up with a great solution.588 Miles Per Gallon20Vacuum Bagging a Skim Board at MITESCompetition22The students of Goshen High School compete in theShell Eco Marathon. Their gasoline powered vehicleachieved an impressive 588.12 mpg.Don and Ben use the opportunity to do a simplevacuum bagging demonstration to create a skim board.Boat Building in Bay CityThe Saginaw Bay Community Sailing Association's popularwinter boat building classes make a variety of beautifulboats as the students learn boat building techniques.Epoxy Basics By Russell BrownAs a lifetime WEST SYSTEM Epoxy user, Russell Brownknows epoxy. His book is a great resource on the basics ofusing epoxy.Epoxyworks is published twice a year by Gougeon Brothers Inc.,Bay City, MI, USA.Product Number 000-605Light as a featherLearn how Tom made a 1.75 ounce custom bike fenderfor his brand new bike.Editor/Designer Jenessa HilgerManaging Editor/Copy Editor Grace OmbryContact/Subscriptions Darlene AumanContributors Ben Gougeon, Bill Bauer, BruceNiederer, Don Gutzmer, Douglas Heckrotte,Goshen High School Students, Greg Bull, Julie VanMullekom, Mike Barnard, Tom Pawlak24 2014 by Gougeon Brothers Inc. Reproduction in any form,in whole or in part, is expressly forbidden without the writtenconsent of the publisher.Epoxyworks is a registered trademark of Gougeon Brothers, Inc.West System, 105 Epoxy Resin, 205 Fast Hardener, 206 Slow Hardener,410 Microlight, G/5, G/flex and Six10 are registered trademarks ofGougeon Brothers, Inc. 207 Special Clear Hardener, 209 Extra SlowHardener, 422 Barrier Coat Additive, Episize and Scarffer aretrademarks of Gougeon Brothers, Inc.Subscriptions, US and CanadaEpoxyworks subscriptions are FREE to US and Canadianaddresses. Subscriptions do not expire. To start or stopa subscription, change address or subscribe for a friend,complete and return the tear-out mailer or call 866937-8797 toll free. You may also subscribe via e-mail toepoxyworks@gougeon.com (be sure to include yourmailing address) or by filling out the subscription format epoxyworks.com or westsystem.com. Our mailing listis strictly confidential and will not be sold or used forany other purpose.Contribute to EpoxyworksIf you have completed an interesting project, ordeveloped a useful technique or a practical or unusualuse for epoxy, tell us and your fellow epoxy users aboutit. Send a photograph or two, or e-mail digital photos(about 300 dpi). Include a note describing the projectand how we may contact you. By sending photographsyou are granting permission to publish your photosin Epoxyworks and other Gougeon Brothers print andonline publications or promotional presentations.Mailing address EpoxyworksP.O. Box 908Bay City, MI 48707-0908Email epoxyworks@gougeon.com26Epoxyworks Online epoxyworks.comBrowse back issues or look for specific topics.Epoxyworks is printed onpaper certified by the ForestStewardship Council.
Drumming in CirclesBy Tom PawlakIn 1991, during testimony before the UnitedStates Senate Special Committee on Aging,Grateful Dead drummer Mickey Hart stated:”Typically, people gather to drum in drum 'circles'with others from the surrounding community. Thedrum circle offers equality because there is no head ortail. It includes people of all ages. The main objectiveis to share rhythm and get in tune with each otherand themselves. To form a group consciousness. Toentrain and resonate. By entrainment, I mean that anew voice, a collective voice, emerges from the groupas they drum together.”I recently joined a group of mostly old guys whomeet a couple of weekends a year to experiencenature and the great outdoors. We all comefrom a diverse cut in society yet we all get alongvery well. One reason is we all love naturebut another reason, I believe, is when we firstgather and just before we leave a couple dayslater, we sit in a circle and we drum togetherfor 10-15 minutes. It is a simple but effectiveprimal group ritual that allows us to releasehard wired anxieties and help clear our minds.I can’t explain why it works—it just does.Apparently others feel the same way becausedrumming circles are gaining popularity inmany communities around the world.New members, participating for the first time, oftenarrive without drums because they don’t own drumsor because they haven’t found anyone willing to loanthem one. More likely they are like me and don’twant to ask friends for a drum because they wouldhave to admit what they need it for.Many of the guys I drum with have their owndrums. Some built theirs at home from kitspurchased on line while others attended weekendworkshops to build their drums from scratchwith expert guidance. Some of the guys alsopurchased drums made by someone else. Thedrum shells are mostly made from wood butsome are made of metal and a few are firedceramic. Nearly all of them are covered withanimal skins that have been stretched by lashingcords and other means. Each drum is a statementin itself about the person who built it.Number 39, Fall 2014I’m a composites guy who loves to build things.I thought if I made my own drum it could beunique. Over a period of months I kept thinkingabout what a drum would sound like if itwere made with a carbon fiber skin, a Kevlar composite skin or even a fiberglass composite skin.A variety of drumsmade by TechnicalAdvisor Tom Pawlak.One of the benefits of working on GougeonBrothers’ tech staff is we have a number of oldcored composite panels left over from panelstiffness testing. Some of the 2'x2'x1" panelsare undamaged and have been on the shelf for15-20 years. I began experimenting with howdifferent composite skins sound by cutting awaythe middle of the composite skin on the back sideof the panel and removing the core in the centerof the panel. That way the smooth molded sideskin was left unsupported by core in the middleof the panel. This allowed me to hear what theskin sounded like when struck by my hand. Idiscovered if the composite skin was more than.040" to .050" thick it did not sound anythinglike a normal drum. It did not resonate well—atleast not for my taste. But I discovered if thecomposite skin was thinner, it actually soundedgreat and looked pretty interesting at the sametime. Success achieved from these experimentsgave me the confidence to build the strip plankedcomposite drum that is featured in this article.If you are intrigued by the idea of building yourown composite drum, here’s one way of buildinga unique and unconventional drum:Locate a smooth shiny solid surface like plateglass or shiny Formica laminate to act as a moldthat is slightly larger than the top of the drumshell that you have in mind.Apply several coats of mold release wax to the mold(PARTALL Paste #2 works well for this) so thecomposite drum skin can be removed after cure.Apply a thick coat of WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin/207Special Clear Epoxy and lay a light layer of 2 to 4-oz.fiberglass cloth into it. Allow the epoxy to soak intothe fiberglass for a minute or so then wet out anyremaining dry fiberglass areas with more epoxy.1
Cut form to sizeRip wood strips to cover the formMark vertical lines for alignmentand attach accent piecesLay a piece of dry carbon fiber, Kevlar , woven orbiaxial fiberglass fabric into the epoxy while allowingthe epoxy to soak through the fabric. Apply more105/207 as needed to finish wetting out the fabric.Apply another layer of the same 2-4-oz. fiberglass asused initially over the carbon fiber, draw off excessepoxy with a plastic spreader or squeegee then coverit with release fabric to compress the fibers. If youdon’t have release fabric, just allow the epoxy to cure.Allow the laminate to cure and leave it attachedto glass mold until after you are able to glue thedrum shell to the composite skin.Building the Drum ShellLocate a mold or former for the drum.An 8" diameter cardboard shipping tube caughtmy eye as a simple form onto which I could gluewood strip planks. I could cover it with shinyCellophane tape and edge glue the wood stripstogether, pull it off and apply fiberglass insideand out or I could take the easy way out and gluethe wood strips to the rigid cardboard tube sofiberglass would not be needed at all. I took theeasy way out given that keeping the drum shelllight was not important.Fabricate wood stripsI found a nice variety of ½", ¾" and 1" thickwood scraps with varying color that I took to thetable saw and ripped into ¼" thick strips.An 8" diameter tube has a circumference ofabout 25" so I would need enough wood strips tocover the shipping tube.2Dry fit then coat the strips andtube with unthickened epoxyDry fit the piecesI stood the cardboard tube on end and verifiedthat the tube was cut square with a framingsquare. I sanded the end slightly a couple timesto make it perfectly square.I marked the circumference of the tube intoeight equally spaced segments. From eachsegment mark, I used a combination squareto draw the equal spaced lines that wereperpendicular to the length of the tube.These lines were used to locate the first accent woodstrips that were glued on with G-5 Five minute Epoxy.I used a few heavy rubber bands around the tube tohold my wood strips in place while the epoxy cured.The rest of the wood strips were dry fitted inbetween the glued in divider strips. I adjustedthe width of the strips slightly with a sandingblock and a low angle block plane so they allfit nicely against the tube with rubber bandpressure. The strips were numbered so they couldbe removed and glued into place later. Workingwith the separate segments would allow me toturn this into eight separate gluing sessions, ifneeded, which took some of the stress out ofattempting to glue them all at once.Unthickened 105 Resin/206 Slow Hardener wasinitially applied to the cardboard tube and to thewood strips with a disposable glue brush.Create accent stripsI decided to rip the darkest wood strips down to¼"x¼" for use as accent strips.Epoxy thickened with 406 Colloidal Silica andcolored with 502 Black Pigment was applied tothe cardboard tube with a fine notched troweljust prior to pressing the wood strips in place.The glue squeeze out was more than enough tofill the slight gap between strips.Once my strips were ripped, I tried severaldifferent patterns for orienting the strips. TheJatoba wood strips were a bit wider and a bitmore colorful than the other woods so I usedthem in the center of my repeating pattern.It took about 35 minutes to apply the epoxyand press all of the strips in place. Initially I justworked with one rubber band to hold the stripsin place then after the last strips were applied Iadded more rubber bands.EPOXYWORKS
Tint a batch of thickenedepoxy with 502 Black PigmentUsing a notched spreader,apply thickened epoxyI allowed the epoxy to cure for about four hoursso it was cured enough to remove the rubberbands and yet soft enough to remove the excessepoxy with chisels and scrapers. This step savedconsiderable time that otherwise would havebeen needed to sand the epoxy away.One of the challenges in making round tubes withstrip planking is it takes some skill to turn the flatwood strips into fluid curves. When different woodspecies are used, the challenge increases because ofdiffering densities and hardnesses. In other words, thesofter woods sand more easily than the hard woodstrips, making it difficult to make the tube round.Creating a curved sanding blockI decided that having a specialty sanding blockwould be worth the time spent making it. I’veused G-5 Five Minute Adhesive to make curvedsanding blocks before so I just needed to find acylindrical object with the correct diameter.I got lucky and found a roll of fiberglass fabric inthe shop that matched the diameter of the wooddrum shell. I covered it with plastic stretch wrapto protect the roll of fiberglass and to act as amold release for the epoxy. I brushed a coat ofG-5 onto the stretch wrap then quickly applieda layer of paper towel into it. I applied anothercoat of G-5 and laid another piece of paper towelinto it. I repeated this process four times beforeallowing the G/5 to cure. (1)I found some pink foam insulation board that Icut to match the curve and glued it to the G-5/paper towel laminate with G-5 thickened with403 Microfiber. Fifteen minutes later I had mysanding block. (2&3)When making curved sanding blocks for use onthe outside of a cylinder, be sure to get the curveright or make it slightly oversized (to account forsandpaper thickness). If the sanding block is madeon too tight a curve, only the ends of the sandingblock will touch which makes it rather useless.Number 39, Fall 2014Press strips onto the formSecure with rubber bandsforcing epoxy between gaps and allow to cure.After sanding, fill any voids withunthickened pigmented epoxyAdhesive backed sandpaper worksespecially well when using simplecurved sanding blocks. (4)Eventually I took the drum shell homeand mounted it in my lathe to cut thegrooves for the decorative banding.This step could have been done on thetable saw or on a router table as wellwith a little set up and fixturing.I modified a cabinet scraper on abench grinder to match the 8-1/2"diameter drum shell curve for truingup some of the stubborn high spots.Scrapers are amazing for this typeof cleanup—if they are sharp. Formore information on scrapers, seeScrapers—Versatile Tools for Workingwith Epoxy in Epoxyworks #19.Creating a CurvedSanding Block12Once the wood was sanded smoothand round, I applied a single coat of105 Resin cured with 207 SpecialClear Hardener. I allowed this to cure24 hours then I sanded it smooth anddull and applied one additional coatof epoxy. Alternatively, the woodendrum shell could have been finishedwith a few coats of clear polyurethaneor varnish. The inside of the drum wassealed in black pigmented 105/207epoxy that was created by adding 502Black Pigment.3Gluing the composite skin to thedrum shellProtect the outside of the drum shellwith masking tape on the end thatwill be glued to the composite skin.4Be sure to pull the release fabriccovering the composite skin thatis still attached to your flat shinymold. Sand the laminate lightly inpreparation for gluing. If you did not3
Sand smooth againScrape down any stubborn high spotsTurn a groove for the decorative bandcover the composite skin with release fabric,be sure to sand gluing areas with 80- or 100grit sandpaper.Apply unthickened epoxy to the top lip of thedrum shell and to the gluing surface on thecomposite drum skin.Apply a bead of epoxy thickened with 406Colloidal Silica (to a mayonnaise consistency)to the top of the drum shell and set it ontothe composite skin. This step could instead beaccomplished by using Six10 Thickened EpoxyAdhesive (the clear epoxy wet out step is notneeded with Six10). If you like, you can colorthe epoxy with 501, 502 or 503 White, Blackor Gray Pigment. Form a small fillet from theexcess epoxy that squeezes from the joint on theinside of the drum shell. Wipe off excess epoxyon the outside of the joint.Put a weight on the bottom of the drum shell(the end that is up for this operation) so it willremain undisturbed while the epoxy cures.Pull the protective tape from the outside of thedrum shell before the epoxy cures.Allow epoxy adhesive to cure overnight.Work a wood wedge under the composite skin tofree it from the flat mold.Use a saber saw, band saw or metal cutting hacksaw to carefully remove the excess composite skinthat projects beyond the sides of the drum shell.Trim rough edges away with sandpaper wrappedaround a hard wood block. Break the cornerwith a small 45 bevel.Wipe a thin coat of unthickened epoxy over the sandededge to bring out the shine and allow it to cure.The completed drumdifferent accent banding materials. I found acouple old leather belts that I cut into ½" widestrips. I found some salvaged stainless steel cablethat I wrapped multiple times around the drumto fill the groove that I also liked. Unfortunately,that presented some aesthetic challenges wherethe cables started and ended. I finally filled theaccent grooves with the better looking ½" wideblack leather belting that I glued on with DAPcontact cement. I think you’ll agree that theblack leather offers a nice contrast to the multicolored wood strips and complements the carbonfiber drum skin as well.With your new drum built and ready to use, it istime to man or woman up and find someone todrum with. I’m thinking the local nursing homeis a good place to start. All kidding aside, youmight want to think about forming your owndrumming circle. If you do, part of the fun withthe group could be building your own drumstogether. The method shown here is just one wayto do it. From the drum group photo, you can seethere are many ways to build a composite drum.Building a composite drum would make aninteresting project for Boy Scouts interested inworking toward a composites merit badge. SeeMike Barnard’s article Composites Merit Badge inEpoxyworks #38 for more on this merit badge.Also included are a couple other drums that werebuilt with composite skins and epoxy. They allsound a bit different depending on the compositefibers used, the thickness of the skin andwhether or not they are attached to a drum body.If you decide to build your own drum with acomposite drum skin, a good source for smallamounts of composite fabric and WEST SYSTEM Epoxy is at The Composites Store in Tehachapi,CA at cstsales.com.To finish out the drum shell, I considered several4EPOXYWORKS
New forJanuary 2015502 BlackPigmentStarting January 1, 2015 we will begin selling anew WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Pigment. In addition toour 501 White Pigment and 503 Gray Pigment,we will now be offering 502 Black Pigment. Justlike the 501 and the 503, it alters the color ofthe epoxy mixture without affecting the curedphysical properties. Similarly, the maximumacceptable loading is 3%. This is great for hidinga surface with a single coat of black epoxy.Adding more pigment will increase the opacity,but can skew the mix ratio because there isepoxy resin in the pigment. For more information,contact our technical staff at 866-937-8797.Smiles AllAroundBy Mike BarnardFor some sailors, there is a common maintenanceritual that occurs every spring—repairing crackswhere the leading edge of the ballast keel meets thehull. This annually reoccurring crack is sometimesreferred to as a “Catalina Smile” because it oftenoccurs on Catalina sailboats.The crack can form due to a number of causesbut probably the most common reason is the hullisn’t as stiff as when it was new. The thousandsof fatigue cycles induced while sailing can leavethe hull too flexible. This allows slightly moremovement at the hull to keel joint, eventuallyexceeding the limitations of normal caulks andfairing putties causing the crack to return.Many people try to fix this crack by fiberglassingover it, and it seems to work well for about ayear. After a fairly short amount of time, the crackcomes back because there is so much flexing thatthe repair laminate cracks and breaks. Instead, thisrepair should be done with a structural, yet flexible,epoxy: G/flex 655 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive.Hairline crackingtypically begins atthe front of the keel.Number 39, Fall 2014Rough Rider, one of many boats successfully repairedIn the years since G/flex was introduced, wehave had many customers (and employees)inquire about using it in this application.Year after year we recommend it, and yearafter year more sailboats are repaired like this.Several customers have used our method andbeen happy with the results. None of theserepairs have had to be been redone.Here is how we recommend fixing theCatalina Smile:Open up the joint a bit with a Dremel toolor metal cutting saw blade to expose brightmetal and fiberglass laminate. Once the crackis cleaned and widened, bevel the openinggenerously into the surrounding fairing puttyto provide a gentle transition. Dispense G/flex655 Resin and Hardener in equal amountson a plastic sheet (or 1.2:1 by weight) and mixby folding it over itself. Begin applying it intothe crack then follow up by filling the troughformed by the shallow bevel on both sides ofthe crack. The pot life of G/flex is 45 minutes,so unless a huge batch is mixed, there shouldbe enough time to dispense it, althoughmixing multiple batches would give even moretime. G/flex 655 has 32% elongation beforebreaking, which helps to prevent cracks fromreappearing in the joint. It can then be wetsanded, dried and painted for a lasting repair.The front of a keel repair inprogress. The crack has beencleaned, widened and filledwith G/flex 655.Repair Cross SectionHairline crack to be repairedKeel JointArea to be removed, beveledand filled with epoxy5
Flying DutchmanRestorationBy Douglas HeckrotteSurcease restored toits former glory.Close up interiorphoto of SurceaseRollover cradleDouglas built forrestoring SurceaseSurcease is a late ’50s International FlyingDutchman Class sailboat. The Mahogany hull wascold-molded in Holland and imported by PaulRimoldi of Miami, Florida. Mr. Rimoldi madeeverything else, including many pieces of hardware.He raced the boat on Biscayne Bay into the ’60sand sailed it for many years. He rebuilt the boat inthe late ’80s but died before he finished. We boughtthe boat in August 1992 from his widow and sailedit for almost a season before wediscovered that the hull was in verypoor condition; the Urea-resin gluebetween the veneers had begun toturn to dust. We stored the boat andbought another Flying Dutchman.I began restoring the boat in 2001,working summer evenings whenit was not too beastly hot. I built arollover cradle which would carry thehull at any angle for ease of working.I stripped off the outer layer of veneer.I removed all of the screws, most ofwhich had corroded to dust, andreplaced them with mahogany dowelsset in WEST SYSTEM Epoxy. I cutout all delaminated areas in as many as three of theremaining four thicknesses of veneer and epoxied innew mahogany veneer. I steam-bent and installeda new White Oak stem. I re-veneered the hull with1/16" flat-cut mahogany and coated it in epoxy.Next, I rolled the boat right-side up and strippedthe deck. I added new mahogany stringersmatching the originals. I laminated new framesin place. I laminated and installed a new thwartand any small pieces of plywood required for theboat. I also replaced the centerboard trunk cap,all the deck supports, and repaired the originaldeck frame.After varnishing the entire interior I installed a newdeck of 1/4" Khaya marine plywood. I reinstalled theoriginal spray shield and coamings, and made newrubrails of wood from a 1963 Hinckley B40 mast.After varnishing the topsides, I reinstalled most ofthe original hardware and made new stainless steelhardware in ’50s style where I felt it appropriate. Irolled the boat upside down and made new rubbingstrips from fiberglass rod; the Flying Dutchmanclass requires the shape of the old-style bronze stripson the hull but I did not want screw holes. The newstrips are painted gold and were varnished alongwith the rest of the hull. I made three new kick-uprudders and centerboards using some old parts,but laminated new mahogany plywood cheeks andmade new stainless steel hardware. I replaced therunning rigging and we sailed Surcease for the firsttime in 19 years in August 2012.We showed and sailed the boat at the ChesapeakeBay Maritime Museum’s annual Mid-Atlantic SmallBoat Festival in October of 2013. They awarded her aFirst Place ribbon in her class for the race. Of about 70boats, only a wooden Thistle was really in her class; wewere first by a very large margin. They also awardedSurcease a First Place ribbon for her restoration.There are several of us Flying Dutchman sailors in themid-Atlantic area who refer to ourselves as “GougeBrothers” (as contrasted with the Blues Brothers)I have coated several wooden countertops and oneantique heart pine bathroom floor in WEST SYSTEMEpoxy and urethane. The shower door and frame aremade of cedar coated in epoxy and painted.We also own a 1970 LeComte North East 38 andmuch of the work I have done to her over the lastdecade involves WEST SYSTEM Epoxy as well.6EPOXYWORKS
Simple, effectivehome repairsand projectsBy Bruce NiedererI often get calls from customers asking if leftover epoxy canbe used for some small project around the house. The answeris yes, of course! Here are three projects that are perfectexamples of what you can do with those partial cans of WESTSYSTEM resin and hardener.Interior DoorI live in a house built in the ’40s located in the historicdistrict of Bay City, Michigan. The inside is filled with greatcustom woodwork – trim, floorboards and doors. One of mydoors got damaged (don’t ask how—kids!) and it had to berepaired since there is no way to replace it.It has a floating center panel and custom trim. As you can seein the photos, much of the trim holding the center panel wasdestroyed beyond saving.Attempting to reassemble the shards of wood like a puzzlejust couldn’t be done and still look good. I’ve tried that(again—kids!), so I had to come up with another scheme.Completed door rehung in place.The problem was that only about half the trim that holds thefloating panel was intact, which meant getting the panel to fitback in flat wouldn’t work as it was.I decided to cut enough of the intact trim with a razor knife to allowthe panel to fit in place properly and flat. Then I purchased sometrim molding I found at a home store, which I used to hide all thedamage. After cutting the trim pieces to fit and staining them withMinwax English Chestnut stain, I ran a bead of WEST SYSTEMSix10 around the panel with enough excess to glue the trim piecesin place. Using the Six10 cartridge really made this easy.I used small finish nails to hold the freshly glued pieces inplace while the Six10 cured.I had to use a little finesse to arrange the four pieces of trim so thatall the damaged area was hidden and still maintained the squareshape and parallel lines. As you can see in the photo, this threwthe fit of my corner joints off a bit. I used a little 105 Resin/205Fast Hardener filled with our brown 405 Filleting Blend filler tofill the gap and the nail holes after they were removed.I am very pleased with the results and satisfied with myself forsaving the door and not losing a piece of the history of my house.Number 39, Fall 2014Top left: Damaged door Bottom Left: Close up of damaged sectionTop Right: New molding cut to size and laying in placeBottom Right: New trim held in place with Six10 and finish nails, thegap being filled with 105/205 with 405 Filleting Blend for color.7
Exterior DoorMy side door, which is off the drivewayand is the door used daily to go in andout, had become water damaged. Thehouse did not have eaves troughs butneeded a new roof which had to happenbefore installing eaves. As a result, a fewyears of water dripping and soaking intothe pressboard core had ruined the coreand corroded the aluminum facing.I peeled one side of the aluminum facingto use as a template and then cut off thebottom at a strategic point above the damage.Utilizing some plywood cabinet doors salvagedfrom our move into the new Gougeon Technicalcenter, I fashioned a new bottom piece.I made a witness mark on both sides and gluedthe replacement piece to the door.I then coated all the sides and edges liberallywith left over WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin/207Special Clear Hardener and laminated a shortlength of 4" 732 Glass Tape over the buttjoint on both sides of the door. Next I sandedeverything and began fairing with a mixture of105/207 and 410 Microlight fairing filler.Once the fairing process was completed and thepanels were smooth and flat I primed the freshlysanded surfaces on both sides of the door.Finally, I found an appropriately colored paint(Saddle Brown) from my local hardware storeand painted the entire door with the exception ofthe window insert. The result is a two-tone lookthat I’ll decide whether or not to keep once Ireinstall it at home.Completed door back where it belongs.Top: The damaged bottomof the door.Above: The aluminum facingbeing peeled backCanoe BracketsMy last project is a new build of some hangingbrackets for the company Sassafras canoe—aCLC kit boat—and Tom Pawlak’s beautifulstripper canoe. The goal of the design was tomake something we could easily rig to lift andhang the canoe so it would be out of our waywhen not in use. We also wanted something thatwould look kind of cool, in keeping with otherstuff built here at GBI.I found some Douglas fir veneer left over from ourwind blade building era with the grain runninglengthwise. The wheels in my head startedturning and the seed of an idea formed. As oftenas not, that can be a dangerous situation, but thistime I think I came up with a good plan. I wouldbuild a jig, laminate the brackets, install them onthe wall, figure out how to rig it with a single lineand stand back and collect all my attaboys!Above: New wood core section being dry fit to theoriginal door section.Right
Vacuum Bagging a Skim Board at MITES Competition 22 Don and Ben use the opportunity to do a simple vacuum bagging demonstration to create a skim board. Boat Building in Bay City 24 The Saginaw Bay Community Sailing Association's popular winter boat building classes make a variety of beautiful boats as the
Group Piano Course Late Beginner (ages 8 10) Alfred’s Basic Late Beginner (ages 10 11) Chord Approach Adult Piano Course OR All-In-One Adult Piano Course Young Beginner (ages 5 7) Prep Course Beginner (ages 7 9) Alfred’s Basic For the youngest beginner, ages 4–6 Music for Little Mozarts, Books 1–4 lead into Prep Level C. 2
Institute (ANSI) A300 Part 7-2006 Vegetation Management standards and the International Society of Arboriculture best management practices. IVM has continued to evolve over the last decade, with examples of expanded emphasis of work on: 1) broad assessment of environmental impact, 2) building social awareness and responsibility; and 3) elevated focus on safety and reliability of service. The .
ASTM F963-11 Flammability Requirements PASS 16 CFR 1500.3 (c)(6) (vi) / 16 CFR 1500.44 Flammability Requirements PASS Canada Toys Regulations SOR/2011-17 Flammability Requirements (Cellulose Nitrate and Celluloid) PASS EN 71-2:2011 A1:2014 Flammability PASS ASTM F963-11 Clause 4.3.5.1 (2) Elements Migration in surface coating PASS
ASTM E 989-06 (2012), Classification for Determination of Impact Insulation Class (IIC) ASTM E 2235-04 (2012) Standard Test Method for Determination of Decay Rates for Use in Sound Insulation Test Methods: Test Procedure. All testing was conducted in the VT test chambers at Intertek-ATI located in York, Pennsylvania. The microphones were calibrated before conducting the tests. The airborne .
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original collection of writing and calligraphy books formed over the course of several decades by Peter A. Wick (1920-2004). The balance of the collection was acquired from Ars Libri by the Library of Congress in September 2010. In addition to writing manuals and calligraphy books per se, the collec-tion includes varia of related interest, such as pictorial alphabet books, and early studies .
about careers/world of work and what they need to know or to find out. Display these around the room to refer to through the lesson (the aim of this is to ensure that the lesson addresses what the students themselves what to know about, and that they are able to share concerns and prior knowledge) Year 9 Careers Education Scheme of work 2 Activity 1 Talking Jobs – this is a locally produced .
