Rope Rescue And The NPS - International Mountain Guides

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Rope Rescue and the NPS

IMG Rope Rescue Overview NPS Rescue Risk Management Plans andResponsibility Anchor Systems: What we can learn from SAR Simple Skills for Rescue Systems Single Rope Lowering Techniques Rescue Traverses Efficiency in Hauling Systems

NPS Rescue Risk Managementand Responsibilities

Rope Rescue and the NPS Training Overview Common Principles of Rescue Differences Between Guiding and Rescue Working with the NPS in a Rescue On Scene: Rope Rescue Start to Finish

Overview of Guide/NPS Training Nine Participants: 3 Rangers, 2 Guides perCompany Objectives: Common Understanding of Roles and Responsibilities “Sync” Techniques Training for Other Guides Develop Ideas for a Cleaver Rescue

Common Principles of Rescue

Guide Service Principles Right Tool, Right Place,Right Time Improvised Whistle Test AMGA Standards

NPS/SAR Principles Formal Personal, Partner,Public, Patient Critical Analysis Static System SafetyFactor (SSSF) Critical Point Test

Comparing the TwoClimbing (Improvised)Rescue (Organized) Dynamic Ropes Single Rope Techniques Multi-Use Equipment Less People Lighter Loads Inc Risk Acceptance Shared Responsibility Low Stretch Ropes Double Rope Techniques Specialized Equipment Lots of People Heavier Loads Dec Risk Acceptance Hierarchical Command

What Are SomeLowering TechniquesWe Use?

Common Lowering SystemLowering TechniqueGuide Services NPS/SARMunterXSuper MunterXATC w/ RedirectXXATCs in SeriesXXParallel PlaquetXBrake RackXScarabX

Common Belay TechniquesBelay TechniquesGuide ServicesMunterXLocking MunterXPlaquetXNPSXParallel PlaquetXTandom PrussikX

What Are SomeHauling Systems WeUse?

Working With The NPSIn A Rescue

Three Main Scenarios Injured Client Encounter an Injured Party NPS Request Assistance

NPS Process Communicate On-Scene, Rangers, Longmire, Guide Services Available Resources Develop a Plan Assess the Plan Execute the Plan

NPS Risk Management Plan

GAR Model Each Category Ranked 1-10 1 Minimum Risk 10 Maximum Risk Add Values Green 1-33 Amber 34-65 Red 65-80

GAR Model Plan Leadership Equipment Team Training Communication Conditions Complexity Supervision Planning Crew Selection Crew Fitness Environment Complexity

There’s an App for That

It’s Our Job to Paint the Picture

What if NPS is On-Scene?

System Analysis:White Board Test

White Board Test: Static System Safety Factor Critical Point Test Whistle Test Other Important Factor Comparative Analysis Failure Analysis

Static System Safety Factor Desired Breaking Strength VS Static Force Applied Ration kN:kN SAR: 10:1 SAR (Vertical Environment) UIAA 1 Pereon 100kg approx. 1kN

Critical Point Test

Whistle Test

Other Items: Anchor Inspection EARNESTStatic System Safety FactorWell Focused?Security? Independent and Hands-On Inspection

One Rope or Two?What Causes the Failure of a SingleRope?

What Causes Rope Failure People Methods Materials Environment

How Steep Is Too Steep?Welcome Back to High School Trigonometry Load (kN) x SIN θ Force on Anchor 30 0.5 or 50% 45 0.75 or 75% 90 1.0 or 100%

Rope Rescue Start toFinish

Rope Rescue Start to Finish Scene Size-Up Make a Plan Team Briefing Stations Communication/Action

Scene Size-Up Hazards Mitigation Patients Number Location Condition Environment Resources

Make a Plan: Work Backward Edge Transition (Where am I going?) Rope Alignment Focal Point Anchors

Team Briefing Here’s what I think we face Here’s what I think we should do Here’s why Here’s what we should keep our eye on Now talk to me

Stations Team Leader Command Belay Mainline Edge Attendent

Communication/Action Roll Call Position the Load Pre-Tension Phase Move Phase

Conclusions NPS is in command Take off the Guide hat Paint a clear picture Be flexible and understanding

QUESTIONS?

Rope Rescue and the NPS Training Overview Common Principles of Rescue Differences Between Guiding and Rescue Working with the NPS in a Rescue On Scene: Rope Rescue Start to Finish. Overview of Guide/NPS Training .

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