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Machinery Compendium IIIw w w. f i b r e 2 f a s h i o n . c o m

From the Editor’s DeskMachinery Compendium III4-ging AheadThe compendiums that we at Fibre2Fashion publish from time to time do two thingssimultaneously–take stock of the situation, and look ahead. This particular compendium, onIndustry 4.0, too does both, but more of the latter.The canvas is huge, and like the universe itself, it is forever expanding. The term Industry4.0 means different things to different people and so the predictions from industryexperts as well as academics and researchers differ as well. But what all agree on is thatthe convergence of information technology (IT) and operational technology (OT) will drivemanufacturing. The next phase of industrialisation, being referred to popularly as the FourthIndustrial Revolution, will be different from the earlier ones in that it will also be about lifecycles. In short, it goes beyond manufacturing.The concept itself is still new and evolving at a frenetic pace. This also makes it difficult forthose in industry to go the Industry 4.0 way. Formulating strategies and implementingthem needs to start with knowledge. That’s where this compendium comes in.This hard-bound volume includes among other things vision statements from industryleaders, some best practices and case studies, and the F2F Ready Reckoner.I hope this Industry 4.0 edition of our Machinery Compendium will go a long way in helpingyou arrive at some thoughts on how to keep pace with the ongoing Fourth IndustrialRevolution.Richa Bansal

OVERVIEW INDIAIS INDIA READY?The textiles industry is growing in terms of technologicalinnovations and upgradation. A wide-range of possibilities haveopened up in Textiles 4.0 through use of these technologies,says B PRAKASH, Associate Director, Wazir Advisors.History chronicled the first industrial revolution inthe 18th century with the invention of water power,steam power, steam engine, machine tools and factorysystem. New manufacturing processes transformedthe entire manufacturing sector. Among them, thetextiles industry was the most dominant in terms of modern productionmethods as well as final output. Mass production of yarn and clothbecame a mainstream industry.Then came the second and third revolutions which further broughtabout technological advancements in manufacturing. The secondindustrial revolution starting from the late 19th century became widelyknown as the technological revolution with mass production lines andinvention of electrical energy as its main features. The second revolutionwas a rough draft of today’s industry. By the time, the third revolutioncame into focus, globalisation was already on its way catalysed by theinvention of the first computer and subsequent discovery of the WorldWide Web. Other major shifts were rapid digitalisation and automationin the manufacturing industry with the convergence of new technologiessuch as intelligent software, novel materials, and a wide range of webbased services.Organisations Exploring Industry 4.0 TechnologiesAll over the world textile research is primarily focused ontechnological innovations, fibre production and application, andsustainability. Here are some examples of research and adoption inthis area.42INDUSTRY 4.0

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OVERVIEW INDIAAdvanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA)It is a non-profit organisation working towards a progressive textilesindustry. With a vision to enable a manufacturing-based revolutionby transforming traditional fibres, yarns and textiles into highlysophisticated integrated and networked devices and systems, it aims tofacilitate economic growth through fibre and fabric manufacturing. Ithas launched two product prototypes till now: A programmable and scannable backpack: A coding systemis woven into the plaid stripes on the backpacks and whenscanned by a smartphone, the owner’s information is displayedby an app called “Looks”. The wearer can “program” their packto include information like favourite song, cause, etc, whichanyone can scan and get to know. Fabric Lifi: The world’s first fabric-based communicationsystem that converts LED light into sound. AFFOA developeda cap with earphones which if it gets under a designated area,starts receiving audio signals.Fast forward to today, industry is going through another paradigmshift, popularly referred to as the “Fourth Industrial Revolution” or“Industry 4.0”. The ultimate goal of the fourth revolution is to builda parallel virtual world that will control and run the physical world.Everything that can be digitalised will be digitalised throughout thecourse of Industry 4.0.The future of manufacturing lies with big data analytics, robots,automation and the Internet of Things. Manual labour will bereplaced with digital factories containing advanced materialsand artificially intelligent machines that run entire factorieson their own. Not only that, cognitive manufacturing willenable manufacturers to forecast demand, carry out predictivemaintenance, estimate problems that might occur and triggersolutions to those problems without any human interference.The manufacturing industry is set to witness another globalrenaissance using principles of Industry 4.0.Industry 4.0 is characterised by digitisation of the manufacturing sector. It introduces a concept called “smartfactories” in which technology monitors physical systems/processes, and makes decentralised decisions.44INDUSTRY 4.0

The ultimate goal of the fourth revolution is to build a parallel virtual world that will control and run thephysical world. Everything that can be digitalised will be digitalised throughout the course of Industry 4.0.Factors Driving Technological ShiftAll the industrial revolutions started with the introduction of a disruptivetechnology which acted as a change agent across industries. Numerous factorsalso contributed to new needs generation within the manufacturing industry.Similar forces are acting to bring about the Industry 4.0 paradigm shift: Ever-evolving technology: Technology has been the major driver ofany industrial revolution. Automation and efficiency in production aswell as gaining scale in advanced material, robotics, nanotechnology,artificial intelligence and the Internet of Things. Changing demand and supply dynamics: Shorter product cycles,faster launches and shift from high volume, low mix to low volume,high mix. Rising limitations in factors of production: Scarcity of skilled labourand rising wage costs. Strong emphasis on sustainability: Growing population and changesin lifestyle require development of new technologies that will be ableto reduce the resources used (water, material, energy).Key Industry 4.0 LeversIndustry 4.0 is characterised by digitisation of the manufacturing sector. Itintroduces a concept called “smart factories” in which technology monitorsphysical systems/processes, and makes decentralised decisions. The futureof the manufacturing industry lies with five technologies—the Internet ofThings, artificial intelligence, advanced robotics, wearables and 3-D printingwhich will revolutionise global production systems and set new precedentsfor competition among producers and countries alike.Following the footprints of the global manufacturing industry, thetextiles sector is also growing leaps and bounds in terms of technologicalinnovations and upgradation. A wide-range of possibilities have openedup in Textiles 4.0 through use of these technologies: Big data analytics: Collection and analysis of large sets of data isthe layman’s explanation of big data analytics. It is forecast that anyTHEN GermanyTHEN Germany is working towards artificial intelligenceapplication in textiles and apparel. THEN is working on thefollowing: recipe prediction for fluorescent dyes using artificial neuralnetworks and artificially intelligent machines which can measureown performance and inform supervisors to carry out predictivemaintenance.FIBRE2FASHION45

OVERVIEW INDIAcompany missing out on big data analytics will miss out on the new ageof innovation, competition and productivity. Big data applications arewide and varied: discovery and analysis trends, patterns, associationsand interactions among various entities, supply chain managementand analytics, merchandising and market-based analytics, market andconsumer segmentation, accurate and faster trade surveillance, real-timedecision-making, multi-channel analytics, predictive analytics, customerchurn prevention, price optimisation and many more. Smart textiles/wearables: Smart textiles are intelligent textiles thatcan sense and react to environmental conditions. Smart textiles findtheir application in health, military/defence, fashion and entertainment,sportswear, etc. Recently, the Google and Levi’s connected jacket thatlets you answer calls, use maps, topping or starting their music, gettingdirections, or reading incoming text messages just by swiping or tappingon the jacket’s sleeve—is an example of this. This works because thegesture-sensing sensors (“Jacquard Threads”) are woven into the jacket’scuff, and are then wirelessly connected to the wearer’s mobile phone usingtiny electronics embedded inside the sleeve in a flexible snap tag. Advanced robotics: Advanced robotics can help in automation inbusiness operation. Companies are coming up with concepts whereinrobots will handle the entire production system including materialhandling in cut and sew industry. Application of robotic automationin the textiles industry provides many benefits such as labour savings,reduced cycle and lead times, improved quality and safety, increasedproductivity and efficiency. 3-D printing/additive manufacturing: 3-D printing is expected tobring about a huge shift by bringing flexibility in the manufacturingprocess by catering to customised demands. It is used in high-endfashion products. The benefits of manufacturing using 3-D printingare: less raw material requirement, less wastage, creation of identicalcomplex objects repeatedly, reduction in lead times and costs. Useof 3-D printing will cover industries from education to fashion toaerospace. Although 3-D printing has been utilised in the fashionindustry, it is yet to make substantial progress. Iris van Herpen,considered the forerunner of 3-D printed haute couture, printsdresses in collaboration with i.Materialise. Danit Peleg is a fashionCognitive manufacturing will enable manufacturers to forecast demand, carry out predictive maintenance,estimate problems that might occur and trigger solutions to those problems without any human interference.46INDUSTRY 4.0

Application of IoT in textiles are in e-textiles and automated monitoring of factory operations. Other applications include predictivemaintenance of equipment, increasing efficiency of weaving and embroidery machines, digital printing, virtual reality, etc.Hugo Boss’s Digital Twin StrategyGlobally companies are already gearing up for Textiles 4.0. One of theforerunners in this is well-known brand Hugo Boss. It has investedheavily in robotics and automation of processes. Their main goal is tocreate a digital twin of their facility which will run their physical factory.The strategy being followed is data collection, digitisation, automation,robotics and finally artificial intelligence. Hugo Boss is aiming to run anentire factory as one “Suit Machine” with focus areas as:Robotics100 data-collecting robots collect data from man, machine and materialon the factory floorArtificial IntelligenceArtificially intelligent machine that can predict maintenancerequirement, schedule lines, etc.Focus on IT and R&DEstablishment of dedicated IT department and TecknoLab forimplementing Industry 4.0Layout of Digital Factory3-D space planning (robots and drones working from above)designer who is implementing 3-D printing into fashion on herwebsite. On the website, users can design their own jacket and have itprinted, fitted and delivered. Adidas has already ventured into masscustomisation of their 3-D printed sneakers in collaboration withcompanies like Carbon to make use of their Speedcell solution. Artificial intelligence (AI): Artificial Intelligence involves recognitionof patterns and machine learning by analysing large chunks of data.It can be used for consumer trend predictions, self-diagnosingmachines. Applications of AI are wide and varied – from videogames to intelligent robots. Such machines/robots will be able todetect physical data from the real world such as light, heat, pressure,temperature, movement, sound etc. AI is increasingly becoming a toolfor enhancement of product quality, increase production, reduce costsand improve overall processes in the textile industry. It is also makingits mark in wet processing industry. Applications of artificial intelligencein textile and apparel industry are in fluorescent dyes, self-diagnosingsystem, defect identification, apparel retail, reinforcement learning etc.Other applications include automation of conversations with buyers,suppliers and other stakeholders via natural language processing andmachine learning capabilities for zero error processes.FIBRE2FASHION47

OVERVIEW INDIA Internet of Things (IoT): The Internet of Things allows machineto-machine interaction and exchanges of data through the Internet.This helps in making decentralised decisions by technology itselfthereby making the decision-making process efficient. Application ofIoT in textiles are in e-textiles and automated monitoring of factoryoperations. Other applications include predictive maintenance ofequipment, increasing efficiency of weaving and embroidery machines,product development, digital printing to reduce time and costs, virtualreality—garment fit, prevention of textile production losses, guidedsales processes, improved post-sales experience, etc.All these technologies could wholly transform the way we think about,produce, wear, and even buy clothes and other textile items.3-D printing is expected to bring about a huge shift by bringing flexibilityin the manufacturing process by catering to customised demands.48INDUSTRY 4.0Indian Textiles and Apparel Towards Textiles 4.0There exists an IT gap in the Indian textiles and apparel (T&A)sector, and also a lack of integration along the value chain. IndianT&A manufacturers need to bridge this gap immediately through ITimplementation in their respective organisations and connecting thesupply chain from end-to end if they hope to successfully move towardsTextiles 4.0. The supply chain must be able to process real-time data andimmediately service the customers accordingly. The Indian T&A sectoris in need of a technological revamp which can be brought about byadopting the following: Initiating experiments with technology through pilots: Companiescan start implementing small-scale preliminary studies or pilots toinvestigate whether a particular technology is feasible for a full-scalesystem. Pilots are easier to conduct and involve less investment. Upgrading information technologies and systems: Timelyupgradation of IT systems and processes will be crucial to stay aheadof the competition. Building a talented workforce through proper training: Highperformance training is the need of the hour. People need tounlearn the traditional/outdated methods and relearn the skillsrequired by the industry today. It is important for our workforceto upgrade their skills to be able to operate the advancedtechnological systems. Pursue new forms of partnership to develop technology andmarkets: It is difficult to continuously evolve company systems andprocesses as and when technology evolves, and many may not knowhow. Hence, a company should keep the option open to work inpartnership with technology providers, consultants and other expertsto remain competitive in the global landscape.Technological advancement is the most effective instrument for growthand change. Currently, the Indian economy is going through a pivotalphase with high economic growth and large investments coupled withgovernment’s bold initiatives. The textiles industry lies at the core of thisdevelopment owing to its contribution to the economy as well as highemployment generation potential.Adoption of Industry 4.0 tools and technologies in the T&Asector would result in increased efficiency, reduced lead time as wellas reduced production time, improved product quality and deliveringfinest service to the buyers, thereby impacting the global landscape.Hence, it is becoming increasingly important for Indian T&Amanufacturers to gear up and be alert and flexible enough to adoptthese cutting-edge technologies to remain competitive in the globalmarketplace.

Machinery Compendium IIIFIBRE2FASHION49

Fabric Lifi: The world’s first fabric-based communication system that converts LED light into sound. AFFOA developed a cap with earphones which if it gets under a designated area, starts receiving audio signals. Fast forward to today, industry is going through another paradigm

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