BERNINA Bernette Sewing Machine

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BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Mastering YourBERNINA /bernette Sewing MachineOwner’s WorkbookMASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers1

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Table of ContentsClass 1 - General Information .3Introduction . 4Meet Your Feet . 5Sewing Machine Needles . 6Thread . 8Stabilizers & Interfacings . 10Samples . 12Product Reference List . 30Class 2 - Practical Stitching . 31Seam Samples . 32Hem and Edging Samples . 40Product Reference List . 52Class 3 - More Practical Stitching . 53Elastic Samples . 54Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses . 58Buttonhole Feet . 59Button & Buttonhole Samples . 60Zipper Samples . 70Darning Sample . 74Product Reference List . 76Class 4 - Decorative Techniques. 77Gathering Samples . 78Specialty Needle Samples . 86Product Reference List . 94Class 5 - More Decorative Techniques . 95Decorative Technique Samples . 96Patchwork/Quilting/BSR/Applique Samplers . 108Surface Embellishment Sampler . 124Product Reference List . 128Class 6 - Stitch Manipulations.129Memory - Basic Information . 130Function Sampler . 132Memory Samples . 144Setup Program . 164Tutorial . 166Creative Consultant . 167Product Reference List . 168Class 7 - Directional Stitching .169Directional Stitching Samples . 170Product Reference List . 190Appendices . 191MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers2

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Class 1General InformationClass OverviewMachine OverviewParts of the machineSetting up the machineGetting ready to sewWinding a bobbinThreading the upper threadUsing the needle threaderPresser Feet & AccessoriesBERNINA’s philosophy - use correct toolsSpecific feet for each machineAttaching the presser feetOverview of additional feetStitch PlatesFeed DogStitch AccessHow to find the stitches on your machineMaking the settings for each stitchTensionAdjusting tensionStitch formationStabilizers & InterfacingDifference between the twoDifferent types and applicationsSewing spraysSamples1 Straight Stitch/Seaming2 Needle Positions3 Securing Stitches4 Stitching Corners5 Zigzag/Oversewing Edges6 Satin Stitch7 Topstitch/Edgestitch8 Basting9 Temporary Altered Stitch MemoryCare and Cleaning of the MachineCleaning the feed dog and needle areasCleaning and lubricating the hookCleaning the outside of the machineSewing Machine NeedlesTypes of needlesSizes of needlesParts of needleMatching needle and threadThis class is formatted for owners of thefollowing BERNINA sewing machine models: classic 1008 activa 220 activa 230PE activa 240 aurora 430 aurora 440QE artista 630 artista 640 artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installedSewing ThreadGood quality vs. poor qualityFibers and weightThread storage ideasThis class is also formatted for owners of thefollowing bernette sewing machine models: 55 65 80e 90eNeedle Stop AdjustmentFoot controlNeedle Stop Up/Down functionCorrect use of handwheelMASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers3

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA IntroductionCongratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA or bernette for BERNINA sewing machine!This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take atyour BERNINA dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you withthe features of your new BERNINA or bernette sewing machine. In addition, you will learn aboutneedles, threads, stabilizers, interfacing, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increaseyour knowledge of sewing and assist you in achieving success in all of your sewing endeavors.Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA or bernette machine,attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectorsand store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future as youuse your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.BERNINA of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing machines,but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing Owners Classes, your localBERNINA dealer stocks BERNINA books and magazines, such as Feetures and Through theNeedle. Plus, BERNINA of America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering freeprojects, basic sewing information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviewswith creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers,no matter which machines are their favorites.Learn to use your BERNINA or bernette machineto its full extent and enjoy being creative with fabricand thread!My BERNINA or bernette sewingmachine model is:Serial Number:I purchased it on:atMASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers4

MasteringYourBERNINA BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines Meet Your FeetBERNINA Presser Feet:BERNINA are precision engineered for specific functions are Swiss-made for the highest quality are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of theneedle, resulting in easier threading are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet usedin factories to increase speed and production withprofessional looking results do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing(ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.) are supported by the best and most complete educationalmaterials in the industry, such as Feetures volumes 1, 2, & 3,and the BERNINA website at www.berninausa.combernette Presser Feet: have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of theneedle, resulting in easier threading are available for some of the most common sewing taskssuch as piping, quilting, couching, etc.BERNINA BERNINA2005 Top Ten Accessory Feet1 Patchwork Foot with Guide #572 Walking Foot #503 Edgestitch Foot #10/10C4 Patchwork Foot #375 Bulky Overlock Foot #12/12C6 Clear Foot #34/34C7 Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C8 Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C9 Invisible Zipper Foot #3510 Freemotion Couching Foot #43Walking FootQuilting FootBlindhem FootSatin Stitch FootDarning/Embroidery FootGathering FootCording FootOvercasting FootHemmer FootMASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers5

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Sewing Machine NeedlesAlong with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many“mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent,damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of allneedles are discarded at some stage of production. When selectingthe correct needle for any sewing project, consider the following:NotesNeedle system – 130/705HNeedle point – to assure proper stitch formation and avoid fabric damageNeedle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier fabricsIf the needle is:Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to bepicked up by the hook pointBent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enterthe loop to form stitchBlunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to makea stitchNeed To Know Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needleis the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of themost crucial for getting good results and keeping your machinerunning well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what isbest for your sewing projects and your machine. European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabriceasily. The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of theneedle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a largergroove should be used.Needle “Secret” Code DRI Triple E Embroidery J Jeans L, LL, R Leather M Microtex MET Metallica N Topstitching/Cordonnet Q Quilting S Stretch SUK Fine Ball Point SES Medium Ball Point WING Wing ZWI Double ZWIHO Double Wing Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible,with the flat side to the back.Needle Size ConversionEuropean vs. Domestic90 1460 870 10 100 16110 1875 1180 12 120 19Regardless of the system,the greater the number,the larger the diameterof the needle.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/056 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines Sewing Machine NeedlesBall Point 60-100 Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie,nylon, jersey; 80 forT-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.StretchStretchDouble70-902.5/753.0/75A stretch needle has a more roundedpoint than a Ball Point, and a blueanti-cling coating which helps toprevent skipped stitches in knits andelastic. Sometimes used onUltrasuede , vinyl, and plastic.Two ballpoint needles on one shank;each needle has a large scarf. Usedfor hemming and for stitching on knitfabric.Universal 60-120 A compromise between a sharp anda ballpoint needle; can be used onboth wovens and knits.60 – very fine batiste70 – broadcloth80 – trigger and gabardine90 – denim and twill100/110/120 – canvasDouble1.6/70- Two needles attached to one shank.Universal 8.0/100 Used for pintucks, hems, anddecorative work.Three needles attached to one shank.Used to create mock smocking andother decorative effects.Triple(Drilling)2.5/903.0/90Jeans70-110 Has a sharp point and a shaft that isless prone to flex. The sharpness ofthe needles makes it better for use ondenim and woven fabrics where aclean stitch is desired.JeansDouble4.0/80LeatherTwo Jeans needles attached to oneshank. For topstitching on denim withheavy thread; can also be used fordecorative stitching with metallicthread.80-100 Point is a sharp cutting wedge.Used for leather only. Not for vinylor simulated leathers.MasteringYourBERNINA Microtex/ Sharp60-90Quilting75 & 90 The thin, tapered point of this needlecauses less damage to fabric whenseaming and cross seaming.A sharp point with a thin shaft.Specially designed for microfiberfabrics.Topstitch 70-100 A sharp point with a large eye anddeep groove. For use with heavierfabrics – the large groove cradlesheavier threads.Embroidery 75 & 90 Sharp needle with a large eye andgroove; also has a coating and alarger scarf. For use with embroiderythread – prevents shredding of rayonor metallic threads. Two threadsmay be used through the eye.Embroidery 2.0/753.0/75DoubleTwo Embroidery needles attachedto one shaft; for double needlework with embroidery threads.Metafil80Similar to Embroidery needle, withlarge eye and deep groove, butmade of a special heat-resistant alloyand with a friction-reducing coating.Especially suitable for manufacturedfibers such as polyester, acrylic, nylon.Wing100 &110Sharp pointed needle with a noncutting wedge of metal on each side.Makes a hole in the fabric withoutcutting the threads of the fabric. Usedfor decorative and heirloom work,such as hemstitching. Works best onnatural fibers or on the bias.DoubleWing100One regular needle and one wingneedle attached to a single shaft.Makes one large and one regular hole.Metallica70-90Designed for use with metallic threads;has a large eye and deep groove.MetallicaDouble2.0/802.0/80Two Metallica points on one shaft.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/057 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA ThreadPoor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on anymachine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately37 times in a “seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor qualitythread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayedthread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewingmachine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, andproperly adjusted thread tensions.NotesSeveral factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of threadmust be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form asingle ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” longwhile European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching,causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads aremore likely to roll.Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly intoa single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will causeskipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots inseams.Right twist – most Americanthreads are twisted to the right,causing some rolling. This givesaverage stitch quality.Left twist – Most commercial andimported threads are twisted tothe left, giving better than averagestitch quality. Left twist resistsrolling and makes a larger loop forthe hook point to enter, reducingskipped stitches.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/058 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA ThreadWearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation andmarketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler andIsacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: whileholding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towardsyou with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.NotesFiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.Some commonly used threads: Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothingconstruction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Willtolerate heat up to 450 Fahrenheit. Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist –such as Mettler 30/3. Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for FrenchMachine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing anddarning. Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft,shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes. Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothingconstruction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroiderycotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cottonthread stretches less than polyester. Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton,it is used for decorative work only. Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread – Isacord and Polysheenembroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasionresistant.Thread StorageThread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with careto keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may causethread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittleas it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid,cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree.Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewingbox. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into aseam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not holdtogether and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/059 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Stabilizers & InterfacingsTear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer,designed to provide temporary support of stitching. Placed on thewrong side of the project and carefully pulled away once stitchingis complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and light.Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer,as they are easier to remove. Many adhesive versions have appearedon the market lately, including Stabil-Stick, which has a peel-awaybacking which exposes the sticky adhesive, and Hydro-Stick, hasa water-activated adhesive on one side which provides a securebond and a high degree of stabilization for very dense and/or intricatedesigns. Available in white and black.NotesCut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does not break down under dense stitching, due to thehigh fiber – rather than paper – content. Excess stabilizer is trimmedaway after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer around theedges). Remaining stabilizer continues to support stitches throughoutlife of garment/project. Stabil-Stick and Hydro-Stick are available ascut-away stabilizers; in addition, PolyMesh, described below, is available in a fusible version. Available in white and black.Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-awaystabilizer developed for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics.Available in fusible and non-fusible versions. Available in white, black,and beige.Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in singleor multiple layers. Available in two weights. Excellent for decorativestitching and cutwork as there are no remnants of stabilizer left afterremoval (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches from being lostin heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy. Examples:Aqua Film and Badge Master. Aqua Mesh Plus is an adhesivewater-soluble stabilizer.Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfectfor knits, this tear-away stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric,inhibiting the tendency of the material to stretch.Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that areburned away at a low temperature, heat removable stabilizers areperfect for heirloom stitchery.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/0510 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Stabilizers & InterfacingsLiquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which allstabilizer must be removed after stitching, these products are painted orsprayed onto the fabric. Several light applications of spray stabilizer arepreferable to one heavy application.NotesKnit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining)to a fabric. Perfect for plackets, garment edges, under buttonholes, andanywhere extra body and stability are needed. Can also be used tostabilize decorative stitch work. Available in white, cream, black, andgray; sometimes available in additional colors.Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as astabilizer and is generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Givesa firmer hand or finish than knit or non-woven inter-facings. Used forlapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra body and stabilityare needed.Sewing and Craft SpraysHRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray: It’s water-soluble, so it washesout completely. Great for basting or holding two layers of fabric and/orbatting together. Can be used as a repositionable spray, allowing itemsto stay sticky but be repositioned on other surfaces. This water-solubleadhesive washes out completely. Works well for securing “hard-to-hoop”items such as collars and cuffs to hooped stabilizer for embroidering.Also works on paper, and be used as a no-show adhesive on vellum.606 Fusible Spray: 606 is used to make any fabric or stabilizer fusible.Apply to the wrong side of the fabric to be fused, using several lightcoats rather than one heavy coating. The more coats used, the strongerthe bond will be. Fuse as directed on product label.Fabric Shield: Used to protect fabrics from dust, dirt, grease, and oil,this spray is water repellent and can be laundered and dry-cleaned.HRZero Adhesive Remover Spray: For removing adhesives, such asquilt sprays and other spray adhesives, as well as labels and tapes, fromvarious surfaces. Use on work surface areas, hoops, needles, frames,quilting frames, stencils, table tops, etc. For use on plastic, metal, wood,glass, stone, and ceramic surfaces. Not intended for fabric surfaces.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/0511 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Straight Stitch/SeamingFabric . two pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”Needle . 90/14 UniversalThread . 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting colorPresser Foot . BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C. BERNINA Quilting/Seam Guide. bernette Zigzag/Universal Foot. bernette seam guide barStitch . straightNeedle Position . centerNotesFind the 5/8” engraved guide line on the stitch plate. [Not availableon bernette 55.]Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with theengraved guide line.Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.Attach and adjust the seam guide and sew a 2” seam on theopposite edge of the fabric.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers12

MasteringYourBERNINA BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines Straight Stitch/Seaming Samplebernette 64073011111111BERNINA 1008StraightStitch1MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers13

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Needle PositionsFabric . firm, woven fabric 4” x 6”Stabilizer . lightweight tear-away, 4” x 6”Needle . 90/14 UniversalThread . 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting colorPresser Foot . BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C. bernette Zigzag/Universal FootStitch . straightNeedle Position . as notedNotesFold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.Select Straight Stitch.Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side ofthe stitch plate. [Not available on bernette 55.]Sew ½” (approximately five stitches). Stop with the needle up,out of the fabric.Move the needle one position to the left.bernettes : Move ½ number to the left using the Stitch Width dial.Stitch ½”. Stop with needle out of the fabric. Repeat until all leftneedle positions have been stitched.Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position backto center.BERNINA models only:Move needle one position to the right. Stitch ½”. Note: On the1008, avoid bending the needle by moving it up out of the fabricbefore changing the needle position; this is not necessary oncomputerized models, as the machine will automatically wait untilthe needle is in the highest position before moving the needle.Repeat this until all right needle positions have been stitched.Note: If your machine has a Pattern Repeat function, activatePattern Repeat 1x, stitch until the machine automatically stops,then adjust the needle position; repeat until all positions are sewn.MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05. 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers14

MasteringYourBERNINA BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines Needle Positions Samplebernette -5mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mmBERNINA esyesyesyesyesyesyesyesMASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05 2005 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers15

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MasteringYourBERNINA Securing StitchesFabric .4 pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4” x 6”Needle . 90/14 UniversalThread . 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting colorPresser Foot . BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C. bernette Zigzag/Universal FootAdditional Accessories . Quilting/Seam Guide. Seam Guide with Rulers. bernette Seam Guide BarStitches . straight. securing stitch and/or quilters securing stitch. feather StitchNeedle Position . centerNotesRow 1 - Straight Stitch:Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette 55.] Fold one piece of fabric in half lengthwise. Place it under thepresser foot; align one 6” edge with the 5/8” guide line.Select straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press theQuick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches backward; machinewill sew in reverse until the Quick Reverse Button/Lever is released.Continue stitching the seam; secure the end in the same way.BERNINA models only:Row 2 - Securing Stitch or Quilter’s Securing Stitch:Attach the Quilting/Seam

BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06 4 Mastering Your BERNINA 2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA or bernette for BERNINA sewing machine! This

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