Traditional “Kick“Kick- ---Out”Out”Out”
Traditional “Kick“Kick-Out”Build Instructions
Thank you for purchasing one of our new Kick-Out Manx’s. After beingout of production for nearly 30 years, we have reintroduced the world famousClassic Manx – signature series, introduced the new Manxter 2 2 and ManxterDualSport, and now the newest Kick-Out – traditional and Kick-Out S.S. Although oftencopied, the fact remains that the Meyers Manx became the benchmark for allothers.The Manx’ tremendous universal appeal both on and off the street haspropelled it into an astronomical orbit. Well known around the world, our carshave reached as far as Europe, Australia, Asia and South America. When mostpeople talk about their fiberglass dune buggies, they commonly (and oftentimes) misrepresent them as a Meyers Manx. Why is that? As misguided assome are, they immediately recall the most famous of buggies ever built anddesire to claim some of the history, nostalgia and quality that has been thecore of the Meyers Manx heritage.As the best Meyers Manx ever, this Kick-Out kit reflects a 45 year legacy ofconstant design improvement, with vastly increased accessibility to bothmechanicals and storage; it still embodies the original look that oncepopularized the dune buggy worldwide. The following build instructions borrow,in part, from the earlier Signature Series Manx kit, as the body mounting hasnever changed (the pictures with the photos). The newer Kick-Out sequence ofsteps # 1 - # 6 (the pages with of line drawings) must be followed exactly, as theplacement of the hood dictates the fit of the cowl to hood for the whole worldto see.The Kick-Out Manx that you have purchased will potentially become acollectible in that this will possibly be my last buggy design, hence the name Kick Out: A surfing maneuver one makes at the end of the ride where he goes up and over thewave to finish with a bit of style and grace.As in all of the Meyers Manx collection of cars the Kick-Out has theunmistakable lineage of being hand-crafted and is the manifestation ofintegrity, ingenuity and heritage. Remember: “If it doesn’t say Meyers, it’s notreally a Manx!” Thank you for your patronage!Bruce Meyers
Pan ShorteningBy David Helland - Club Member #50The VW Bug combines a body shell and chassis to implement a very rigid "monocoque" body. The VW isnot a true "monocoque" because the body can be removed by simply un-bolting it. The remaining chassisis called the "pan.” The pan consists of a central steel tunnel with front and rear assemblies for attachingsuspension components and a thin sheet metal floor plate to form the bottom of the car. When the body isremoved, the central tunnel of the pan is the only remaining structural component between the front andrear of the chassis. The tunnel is not a completely rigid structural component in that it will allow sometorsion to occur between the front and rear of the frame.When shortening the pan it is extremely important to correctly weld the tunnel back together to restorethe structural integrity of the frame. When a fiberglass body is bolted to the frame it regains some of the"monocoque" characteristics but it is not nearly as rigid as the original VW Bug. If the tunnel is notcorrectly welded and strengthened, the car is very likely to break in half. A MIG wire-feed welder isrecommended for the welding; however, I have done the job by steel brazing with oxygen-acetylene gas.An arc welder is not recommended because the material is so thin that an arc welder will just melt holes inthe metal. It is also very important to keep the alignment of the frame intact. I always spend more timemeasuring for accurate alignment than I spend welding.The location on the frame where the 14-1/2 inches is to be removed isthe straight section of the tunnel directly behind the emergency brakehandle on a line even with the rear of the seat support rails. Whenexamining the pan it is obvious that because the sides of the VW pan arenot parallel, the two halves are not going to exactly match when they areput back together. There are several ways to accomplish this feat. Themethod that I am going to describe entails cutting out 14-1/2 inchesstraight across the frame and then cutting darts out of the rear half tomake the two sides match.The body is removed from the frame by first removing all the bolts from the channel under the outer edgeof the frame (an air powered impact wrench does this quickly). There are also four bolts that must beremoved the middle of the underside of the car that are just in front of the rear torsion bar housing. Thenremove the two bolts under the rear wheel wells that attach the body to the rear cast suspensionmembers. There are also two bolts under the rear seat of the car that attach to the rear cast suspensionmembers. The last two bolts are located in front of the gas tank and connect to the top of the frontsuspension beams. Before you can lift the body off, you must disconnect the steering shaft at the steeringbox, remove the speedometer cable, disconnect the heater box control wires, and all remove the wiringthat connects to the engine and the master brake cylinder.The next task is to lift the body off the chassis. There are several ways to do this. The method I chose in1966 was to hook a winch to the rafters of my dad's garage. I succeeded in breaking the rafter andcollapsing the roof of the garage onto the VW! It is better to get four helpers, two 12 foot 2x6's, and foursaw horses. First, lift the front of the body off the frame and slip a 2x6 under the wheel wells and supportit on each side with saw horses. Then do the same thing at the rear of the car. When the body is highenough in the air, the frame can be rolled out from under it. I recently removed a body by myself bybuilding a large wood frame and using a "come-along" to winch the body into the air.
Pan Shortening - ContinuedPage 2 of 5The frame now needs to be cleaned and prepared before shortening begins. The engine must be removedbecause it is heavy and the pan must be turned over to weld the bottom. Open the access hole at thefront of the frame between the front torsion bar tubes and remove the shift rod after detaching it from thefront of the transmission. Leave the front suspension on the pan to provide necessary points formeasuring and aligning the chassis. Clean the thick tar based sound deadening material from the entirepan so that the metal can be cleaned of rust and eventually painted. The tar can be removed by using achisel and hammer, but an air chisel does this quickly. The tar can also be removed by heating the metalnear the tar to cause it to melt away from the metal (this is a stinky process). You must then remove therear brake drums and take out the emergency brake cables. Disconnect the hydraulic brake line at the teeconnector on the rear suspension fork. Pull the brake line toward the front of the chassis by bending openthe tabs that hold the line to the pan. You will also have to remove the foot pedal assembly to remove theclutch cable and accelerator cable.Once the pan is clean, the next step is to support it about 2 feet off theground so that it is perfectly level and convenient for cutting andwelding. To level the pan, place a bubble level on the straight part ontop of the tunnel in front of the shift lever and adjust the supports frontand rear to center the bubble. The flat part of the tunnel just in front ofthe rear access hole should also be level. The pan must also be leveledfrom side to side. This is accomplished by first placing a straight edgeacross the shock towers of the front suspension and then adjusting forside to side level. Then place a straight edge across the rear castsuspension mounts to level the rear of the pan.Now make crisscross measurements to verify that the frame is straight. Measure the distance from the topof one front shock tower to one of the body attachment bolt holes in the opposite rear cast suspensionmounts. Repeat the measurement using the other front shock tower and opposite rear mounting bolt hole.The measurements should be the same within an 1/8 inch or so. We will repeat this process to guaranteealignment after the 14-1/2 inches have been removed and the two halves are pushed together.To make a template for marking the pan section to be removed, cut a pieceof construction paper exactly 14-1/2 inches wide and about 30 inches long.Lay the template on the floor pan with one of the long edges just touchingthe rear of the seat support rails. Use a silver drawing pencil to draw twoparallel lines from the side of the pan over to the bottom edge of the tunnel.Repeat the procedure on the other side of the pan. Now lay the paper overthe tunnel about two inches behind the emergency brake bracket. Line up thetemplate so that the edges of the paper match the lines just drawn on the floor pan. Use the silverdrawing pencil to trace the edge of the paper over the tunnel at the front and rear of the paper template.
Pan Shortening - ContinuedPage 3 of 5It is now time to cut using a reciprocating "sawsall" (an air powered cutting tool can also be used). It isimportant to not cut through the tubes that are located inside the tunnelso special care will have to be taken to locate and avoid them. Use the sawto just barely cut through the front top corners of the tunnel just behindthe emergency brake. Stick a hacksaw blade through the cut to feel whereit is safe to cut. You can also shove a "snake light" into the rear accesscover to illuminate the interior of the tunnel. When you know where it issafe to cut, go ahead and cut down the sides of the tunnel. The rear cut istrickier because the tubes for the emergency brake are flush with thesides of the tunnel. Be extremely careful to cut through only the tunnel and not through the tubes. Duringthe cutting process a helper should apply oil to the saw blade so that the job uses a couple of bladesrather than a dozen. To remove the tunnel section you must saw along the bottom just flush with thefloor.Don't cut up this piece because we will use it later to strengthen the tunnel. Use a disk grinder to cut aslot in the tunnel so that the saw blade can be inserted.Once the top of the tunnel has been removed, put supports under the middle of the car and cut thesections out of the sheet metal floor.It is best to cut the floor just inside the lines so that there will be a slight overlap when the halves are putback together. Then use a straight edge to draw two lines on the remaining bottom section of the tunneland cut it out.Before the two halves can be pushed together, the control tubes must be modified. At the rear accesscover, measure how far the clutch and accelerator tubes extend out behind the chassis and then cut themaway (not off) from the bracket that holds them to the tunnel. Remove the rubber grommet where thefuel line sticks out of the rear transmission fork. When the halves get pushed together, these lines will bepushed back and extended further out the holes from which they currently protrude. Cut off the tubes thatare used to control the heater vents (unless you live in Canada). Use the sawsall with a long blade (12")to reach into the rear section of the tunnel and cut the bracket that holds the gas line.The emergency brake tubes require some special consideration. What you do next depends on whetheryou can obtain or make shortened emergency brake cables. To make shortened cables you must obtainnew cable ends and have them swaged onto the shortened cables with a special tool (this might beaccomplished at a yachting supply company).If you can get shortened cables, you want to keep the tubes intact all the way up to the rear of the handbrake cable opening. Measure the distance from the forward tunnel cut to the front of the emergencybrake tubes. Mark this distance on the emergency brake tubes from the rear tunnel cut and sever thetubes at this point. Use the sawsall to cut the bracket inside the tunnel just behind the emergency brake
Pan Shortening - ContinuedPage 4 of 5brake lever hole and then remove the short sections of the tubes. Then put a hose clamp around the frontof the remaining emergency brake tubes so they will come together just behind the brake handle whenthe pan halves are shoved together.If you cannot get shortened cables, the full length cables will be used and coiled up inside the tunnel. Inthis case cut the emergency brake tubes just behind the front tunnel cut leaving the short sectionattached under the rear of the brake handle. Next cut the emergency brake tubes about eight to teninches inside the rear pan section and remove the loose pieces of tubing. Use the sawsall to enlarge therear tunnel access hole (not larger than the size of the cover plate) so that it is possible to get your handin there later to coil the cable and put on cable clamps.It is now possible to push the two pan halves together. Keep the halves wellsupported so that they do not fall and bend the tubing. While pushing thehalves together, carefully pull the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines out oftheir respective openings. When the halves are together, check for anymismatches that may need to be ground off with a welding grinder. It isnow time check for alignment again. Use the bubble level to adjust the topof the tunnel at the front and rear as was done earlier.Level the front of the chassis by using the straight edge across the top of the front shock towers. Level therear of the car using a straight edge across the rear cast suspension mounts. Make the crisscrossmeasurements to verify that the chassis is straight.There should be no more than 1/16 inch separation at the tunnel joint. Ifthere is more than that, slide the halves apart and use the weldinggrinder to remove excess metal. At the corners there will be up to 1/2"mismatch due to the difference in the shape between the front and rearhalves. We will heat the corners with a torch and bend them into placeduring the welding. Put the halves back together and re- measure. Thehalves can be put together under tension by using pipe clamps betweenthe hand brake hole tension by attaching a "come-along" under the panfrom the front suspension to a chain attached to the rear forks.Once the halves are tightly together and aligned, the welding process can begin. Tack weld the top centerof the tunnel and then the straight sections of the tunnel sides where they are evenly matched. Now usean oxygen-acetylene torch to heat the mismatched sections and beat them into place with a hammer.Alternate between welding and heating with the torch until the tunnel is completely welded on the topside. There may be up to 1/2" gap where the two floors meet at the bottom edge of the tunnel. This willrequire some extra heat and a 5 pound hammer to get the edges close enough to weld. Now turn thechassis over and weld the bottom edge of the tunnel together.The thin sheet metal floor can now be welded; however, a dart must be cut out of the rear corner beforethe outside edges of the pan will come together. Draw a line from the rear outside corners of the rear pansections down along the inside radius of the corner to the bottom of the floor pan. Then extend the linestraight and parallel to the outside edge forward to the cut between the halves. Use the sawsall to cutalong this line so that the rear corner is loose but not cut all the way off. Now fold the loose corner in until
Pan Shortening - ContinuedPage 5 of 5the outside edges of the pan match. Use the silver pencil to draw a line on the overlapped portion of therear section. Pull out the loose corner and cut off the excess material at the marked line with tin shears.Now fold the loose corner back in place; clamp it; and weld it.To strengthen the tunnel weld, cut one 1-1/2 inch wide strip from theremoved tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld. If thepan has slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls,these slots must be welded shut and strengthened. Cut the remainingpiece of the tunnel lengthwise into 1-1/2 inch wide strips. Weld one stripon each side of the tunnel on the vertical surface just below the handbrake opening. The cut narrow strips and weld them over the heater slotsand to the upper edge of the straps that were just welded into place.The last detail is to shorten the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines that aresticking out the rear of the chassis. Use the measurements for correctlength that were made before the chassis was cut in half. Re-install thefuel line grommet to keep it from rattling and braze the clutch andaccelerator cables tubes to the edge of the pan just under the rear accesscover. Don't forget that the shift rod must also be shortened 14-1/2inches. When you shorten the rod, scribe a horizontal line on the rodbefore you cut it to be sure that the two halves go back together withoutany twist. Install a new nylon shift rod bushing inside the tunnel justbehind the shifter opening before putting the shift rod back in place.I find cleaning the pan before painting is best accomplished with a heavy duty wire cup brush on a weldinggrinder (sand blasting is optimum). Painting the whole pan with POR-15, a rust inhibiting primer andfinishing it with Rustoleum or other enamel paint is recommended. Finish the whole process withRubberized undercoating on the bottom.
From manufacturing, the Manx body will have some sharp edges.Using 80 grit sandpaper on a rubber block or similar, sand the innerand outer fender edges of the Manx body. Do not hand sand thebody edges.Hold the block at approximately a 30 degree angle. By sanding theglass in this manner, the gelcoat will not chip or crack along the edge.Front Body MountsNeeded: Front Body Mounting Hardware # 251Place the galvanized washers over the original VW mounting post onthe front suspension. Place the z-bent front body support over the VWmount as shown. Note that the slotted hole is at the top of the mount.On some suspensions, this threaded mount will be taller than thebracket and washer. It may be necessary to use multiple galvanized5/8” diameter washers as spacers in order for the bolt to hold thebracket in place.Position the brackets and finger tighten the bolts for now.Roll Bar and Rear Body MountsNeeded: Roll Bar Assembly Hardware # 154This bracket doubles as a body mount and roll bar mount. Mount theangel brackets using a washer and 3/8x5/8 bolt in to the cast torsionbody mount. If there is a broken off bolt in this mount, drill and tap toaccept the new bolt.Repeat this procedure for both sides.Finger tighten the bolts for now.Side Body MountsNeeded: Rear Body Mounting Assembly Hardware # 250The following steps need to be repeated on the LEFT and RIGHT sides.Remove the rear shock bolts. In order to make removal of the shockbolt easier once the Manx is built, install the bolt from the outside to theinside of the shock mount.Sandwich the rear body mount bracket between the shock and theshock mount and tighten the nut. With an adjustable wrench, twist theplate about 30 degrees CCW for the right side and CW for the left side.As a reference, the twisted bracket should line up with the spring hole.Once the brackets are finished, tighten the shock bolts to keep thebrackets from rotating.
Floor Pan Gasket PlacementNeeded:Stock VW floor pan gasket or truck cap foaminsulation, contact cement, scissors.The floor pan gasket is fitted to the perimeter of the pan wherethe pan meets the body. In the corners, dart the gasket asshown.Apply contact cement to the perimeter of the pan and on thebottom of the gasket. Once the glue has tacked up, press thegasket in place.As an option, pickup truck camper foam for use between therails of the bed and the camper topper can be used. Variousthicknesses and widths are available at home improvementstores.Body MountingNeeded: 2 persons, one Manx body, one pan.With one person on each end of the body, lift and carry thebody over the pan.Lower the body down and assure that the inner lip ca
popularized the dune buggy worldwide. The following build instructions borrow, in part, from the earlier Signature Series Manx kit, as the body mounting has never changed (the pictures with the photos). The newer Kick-Out sequence of steps #1 - #6 (the pages with of line drawings) must be followed exactly, as the
FREAK THE MIGHTY . little critters his own age, maybe it will improve his temper. Yeah, right! Instead, what happened, I invented games like kick-boxing and kick-knees and kick-faces and kick-teachers, and kick-the-other-little-day-care-critters, because I knew what a rotten lie that hug stuff was. Oh, I . knew.
Hammer Fist Elbow Strike (Cradled) Front Snap Kick Side Snap Kick Back Snap Kick Stepping Back Kick Low Roundhouse/Wheel Kick Knee Strike Intermediate . MING'S SWORD CHINESE FAN LOCKING THE GATE WATER FALL PRANCE OF THE TIGER THE RAKE 3 TONGU
formed in a number of machines. In RHIC, for the first time, a transverse beam echo was observed after applying a dipole kick followed by a quadrupole .kick. After applica- tion of the dipole kick, the dipole moment decohered com- pletely due to lattice nonlinearities. When a quadrupole kick is applied at time r after the dipole kick, the beam
At a glance Product type Growth Kick-out Potential return 11.50% per annum Index FTSE 100 Index S&P 500 Index Investment Term The full Investment Term is six years, however, the Plan has the potential to mature early (kick-out) from the first anniversary and annually thereafter. Kick-out feature If both the FTSE 100 Index and the S&P 500 Index are at or above their Initial
At a glance Product type Growth Kick-out Potential return 11.50% per annum Index FTSE 100 Index S&P 500 Index Investment Term The full Investment Term is six years, however, the Plan has the potential to mature early (kick-out) from the first anniversary and annually thereafter. Kick-out feature If both the FTSE 100 Index and the S&P 500 Index are at or above their required
1.0.19 Mud gas separator a device that removes gas from the returned drilling fluid, when a kick is being circulated out. It is also known as gas buster or poor boy degasser. 1.0.20 Kick tolerance: Kick tolerance is the volume of the kick at a given pressure which can be safely shut in and circulated out of the well without fracturing the .
KICK IN – For main kick/bass drum tracks. KICK OUT– If your kick was recorded using two microphones, use for the mic positioned further away from the drum. . Turn the Sensitivity Control until the LED lights up. For best results, use the section of your track with the highest peaks.
ANSI A300 (Part 1)-2001 Pruning Glossary of Terms . I. Executive Summary Trees within Macon State College grounds were inventoried to assist in managing tree health and safety. 500 trees or tree groupings were identified of 40 different species. Trees inventoried were 6 inches at DBH or greater. The attributes that were collected include tree Latitude and Longitude, and a visual assessment of .
