Lake Erie Shiner (Tube Fly)

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Lake Erie Shiner (Tube Fly)By Raymond Tucker (aka – “letumgo”)Date: March 29, 2008Materials UsedHMH Copper Tube (or Plastic Tubing) - 3/4" or 1" long x 1/8" ODClear Junction Tubing (5/8" Long piece)Thread - White UNI-Thread (6/0)Rear Body - Silver or Gold Mylar TinselGills - Red Floss (Danville Rayon Floss – single strand)Wing (listed in the order they are tyed in)1. Flash'N Slinky ("Off White") – small bundle cut 4” long (tyed in folded inhalf)2. Twelve to Fifteen strands of Krystal Flash - 5” long (Blend of colors to suityour tastes)3. Flash'N Slinky ("Natural") – small bundle cut 5 “ long (tyed in folded in half)4. Five Pieces of Peacock HerlEyes - 3D Stick on Eyes (3/16" Diameter / Golden)Body Covering - Feather Craft Flexicord (1/8") Pearl or Black-PearlSharpie Markers (Marigold & Olive)Two thin coats of EpoxyWritten and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 1 or 7

Detailed Tying Instructions:Materials are tyed onto the tube in the order they are listed on page one, above.The synthetic fibers do not hold much water, making this fly fairly easy to cast. Prepare the tube by mounting apiece of junction tubing over theend of the tube. If you are tying withthe plastic tube body, you shouldalso pre-melt the end of the tube(head end). This is done before thetying process because the epoxycould be damaged during themelting process.Mount the tube on a mandrel andthen insert into the tube fly vice.Mount the tying thread and wrapback to the junction tubing. It is notnecessary to wrap the thread ontothe junction tubing since it will beheld in place later by epoxy.Mount a narrow strip of Mylar tinselat the back end of the fly and wrapthe tying thread forward to the frontof the fly. Be careful to wrap thethread in very close wraps (eachwrap touching the last). This willhelp form a smooth underbody towrap the tinsel over.When mounting the tinsel, makesure that the side with the desiredbody color faces towards the bodyof the fly. When you wrap the tinsel,it will fold over and display thedesired color.Wrap the tinsel forward to the tyingthread. Each wrap should betouching the leading edge of theprevious wrap. Tye off the tinseland clip off the excess.Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 2 or 7

Mount a single strand of floss at thetop of the tube. Wrap the floss towards the back ofthe fly and then back to the tyingthread. I like the gills of the flyslightly longer than 1/8”.Secure the floss and clip off theexcess.NOTE - Leave enough room at thefront of the tube to tye in the wingmaterial and nose of the fly. Leaveroughly 3/8” to 1/4” in front of thegills.Cut the material for the wing. In thephoto to the left you see twosections of synthetic wing material.Use about 1/3rd less material for thebottom section. Each section isabout 4 to 5 inches long. I like tomeasure the material as I cut it sothat I can get consistent resultsfrom fly to fly. All of the synthetic materials aretrimmed to length (4" to 5” long).Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 3 or 7

Pull some of the fibers to make theends uneven to give the minnowpattern a more natural profile. Dothis before the material is tyed in.I find this method much easier todo, than trimming the materialsafter they are tyed in. This methodseems to give consistently betterlooking fly when it is done. The flyprofile looks great once the fly getswet (very minnow shaped profile). Here are the two bundles of wingmaterial after they are prepared(ends are now uneven and each pileis slightly longer than it was beforethe ends were pulled) All of the wing materials are tyed in"high style". In other words they areeach tyed in one in front of the otheron top of the tube. I like to tye themin at the middle of the fibers andthen fold them back over themselves. This creates an extremelystrong fly (the wing will never pullloose).Tye in the bottom layer of wingmaterial by the center. The fibersshould all be mounted on the top ofthe tube. It is helpful to wrap fromthe front to the back.Fold the wing fibers in half andsecure with the tying thread.Carefully wrap forward and form anice taper in front of where the wingis tyed in. Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 4 or 7

Repeat these steps with the KrystalFlash (12 to 15 strands of mixedcolors) and with the material for theback of the fly. Each bundle offibers is tyed in by the center andfolded in half to secure them inplace. Each bundle is tyed inslightly in front of the last wing. Allof the bundles are tyed in on top oftube.Select 5 or 6 strands of peacockherl and even the tips. Tye the herlalong the top of the fly to give it anice dark line along the back.Notice that the thread is wrappedfrom the front of the fly towards thegills. Stop the tying thread at theback of the head and then fold thebutt ends of the herl back over thetop of the head.Wrap a couple times with the tyingthread and secure with a whipfinish.Clip off the tying thread and theexcess butt ends of the herl.Here is the finished body of the fly.Notice that there is still a small gapat the front of the head. This gapwill be used later to allow room totye off the body cover material(Flexicord).Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 5 or 7

Cut a piece of Flexicord equal to thelength of the tube assembly(junction tubing plus tube body).Carefully slide the Flexicord overthe body and wing of the fly. Secure the Flexicord at the front ofthe head and then whip finish thenose of the fly. Clip off the thread. Here is a Bullet Head tool modifiedto hold the wing and body in shapewhile applying epoxy. The rubbermembrane of the bullet head toolhas been modified with a simplehole punched to form an ovalopening in the rubber gasketmaterial. Slide the modified bullet head toolover the fly to help hold the shape ofthe body while it is being coatedwith epoxy.Color the top of the nose of the flywith a Sharpie marker (Marigold &Olive).Mount a pair of 3D stick on eyes atthe front of the fly. Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 6 or 7

Give the fly a thin (repeat thin) coatof Devcon 5 minute epoxy. Makesure that the fly is rotated in thevice to prevent sagging of theepoxy. After three of four minutes,the epoxy should be set up enoughto stop rotating the fly. Take it outof the vice and set it aside to let itfully cure (at least 1 hour). Remount the fly in the vice and giveit a second thin (repeat thin) coat ofepoxy. Rotate the fly to preventsagging of the epoxy. After three offour minutes, the epoxy should beset up enough to stop rotating thefly. Take it out of the vice and set itaside to let it cure. Do not fish thefly for at least 24 hours.Version With Gold Colored BodyVersion With Silver Colored BodyHave Fun!Written and Photographed by Raymond “letumgo” Tucker (March 29, 2008) – Page 7 or 7

at the back end of the fly and wrap the tying thread forward to the front of the fly. Be careful to wrap the thread in very close wraps (each wrap touching the last). This will help form a smooth underbody to wrap the tinsel over. When mounting the tinsel, make sure that the side with the desired body color faces towards the body of the fly.

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