On Baking - Pearson

A01 LABE5000 04 SE FM.indd Page 3 10/18/19 7:18 AM f-0039/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDVisual GuideM05 LABE5000 04 SE C05.indd120 10/17/19is2:15dividedPM f-0039/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUND.Easy tonavigate, On PageBakinginto bite-sizedsubsections to optimizethe learning process. We invite you to explore this new edition with the following guided tour through the features included.120CHAPTER FIVE After studying this chapter,you will be able to:BLearningObjectivesaking is a science that relies upon chemistry and the physics of heat transfer, plusEach chapter begins with clearlystated objectives that focus onwhat students can achieve byshop,a good understandingthe everyday science of the kitchen is fundamental tocompletingtheof material.a dash of microbiology. The actions that take place for a mixture of flour, fatdescribe and use various mixingand water to become a finished product are a function of scientific principles.methods, and explain the importanceUnderstanding this allows you to select ingredients and work with formulas more easily.of gluten and moisture in mixingM05 LABE5000 04 SE C05.inddPage or12010/17/19PM f-0039Though a degree in chemistryphysicsis not2:15a prerequisitefor working in the bake-/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING ANDdescribe the three primary forms ofheat transfer and explain how heatsuccess. You will find different aspects of the principles discussed in this chapter demonM07 LABE5000 04 SE C07.indd Page 168 10/17/19 1:27 PM f-0039/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUND .affects batters and doughsstrated and expanded upon throughout this text.M05 LABE5000 04 SE C05.indd Page 120 10/17/19 2:15 PM f-0039/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING ANDdescribe the various baking and cooking methods employed in the bakeshop describe the stages of the baking process explain the science of taste and basicflavor principlesapply the science of taste and basicflavor principlesMIXING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES120CHAPTER FIVEThe firststep in Cthepastries and other bakeshop products is the168H AproductionP T E R S E ofV Ebreads,Nmeasuring of ingredients as discussed in Chapter 4, Mise en Place. Once measured,ingredients must be mixed or combined correctly in order to achieve the desired results.The techniquesmixFthisorI Vcombineingredients affect the baked good’s final volume,After120C H studyingAusedP T toEREchapter,appearance and texture. Mixing assists with the following: read making dates back to ancient times. Over the centuries, bakers have learnedAfter studying this chapter,you bewill ablebe ableto:to:aking is a science that relies upon chemistry and the physics of heat transfer, plusyou willEven distribution of dry and liquid ingredients.to manipulate the basic ingredients—flour, water, salt and leavening—to producea dashofmicrobiology. The actions that take place for a mixture of flour, fat Breakdownemulsify to combine a fat and a liquid into afatsyeastandproperlyliquids, causing them to blendaorvastemulsifydo notThin-crusted baguettes, tender Parker House rolls, crispselect andofusevariety. Fatsof breads.Afterstudyingthischapter,homogeneous mixture by properly blending describereadilycombinewith water.Various mixing methodshelpfatschewyto comea finishedproducta samefunctionof scientific principles.flatbreadsandbagelsareby carefulselection andhandlingareof thekeydescribe and carry out the 10 stagesingredientsliquidsbeinto ablea homogenousmixture (a mixtureingredients.that is consistentthroughout).akingis thisa sciencethatuponchemistryandthephysicsof heat ortanceA renewedinterestinallowsthe traditionalcraftof bakinghas seen manynewartisaninvolvedinexplainyeast orkwith formulasmore easily. BB BChapter Introduction Activation of the proteins in wheat flour, causingthebakeriesformationtherecentelasticyears. Customers are demanding, and more restaurants arebreadopeninaaofdashof microbiology. The actions that take place for a mixture of flour, fatof glutenandcalledin mixing prepareamoisturevarietyof yeastbreads,gluten. Glutendevelopment is affectedby factorsincludingin chemistry or physics is not a prerequisite for working in the rtmentsat every meal. Although few baked goods que,fat,andmoisture,formula type and ingredients.and water to become a finished product are a function of scientific principles. describeandusevariousmixing describethe three primary forms ofshop,the aseverydayofmasterthe kitchen is fundamental tonovicebakers aas goodmuch asunderstandingyeast breads, few areofactuallyforgiving toscienceprepare. Byvarieties seanddevelopalightaerate to incorporate air into a mixturemethods,andandexplainthe howimportanceUnderstandingyouandto pastryselectofingredientsandcustomerswork g basicprocedurestechniques,bakerschefsoffer theirthrough sifting and mixing;to whip air tsthecanprinciplesdiscussedthis chapterdemontexturewhenbaked. graphssummarizeofglutenand moisturein mixinga mixture to lighten it, such as beating eggdelicious,freshly-bakedgoodsinmadewith yeast.or physics is not a prerequisite for working in the readCorrectly employing a variety of different mixing methodscan accomplishmany thingsstratedand expandedupon throughout this text.whites to a foamthe mainthemesinbasiceachchapterwith only athefewthreeingredients.(See Tablemixingmethods describeprimary formsof 5.1.) ForWeexample,shop,goodunderstandingthe everydaythe kitchen is fundamental todivide ayeastbreadsintosuchthree majorofcategories:basic leansciencedoughs, ofnaturally describe the various baking and pics.heattransfer employedand explainheatleavenedand ryeYoubreads,and rich differentdoughs. Basiclean doughs,suchprinciplesas those useddiscussedto makesuccess.willaspectsof thein this chapter demoningmethodsin howthein bakeshopCuttingalso combines ingredients,this case solid fat anddry ingredients,in afindspecificcrusty French and Italian breads, rolls and sandwich loaves, contain little or no sugaraffectsbattersdoughscrumb the interior of bread or cake; may beBeating, creamingupon,way to ensurethatanda doughbakes into a flaky crust stratedor XINGSuchdoughsare METHODSthefocus of this chapter. ANDNaturally-leavenedand rye breads areTECHNIQUES describethe whippingstages ofincorporatethe bakingelastic, aerated, fine or coarse grainedkneading andair processinto a batter,or foamduringmixing. describeand goodscook-theirmadefrom leanrequire special handling to bring out their unique flavor.Pockets theof airvarious(air cells)bakinggives bakedfinal textureafterdoughsbaking.thatA buttery explainthescienceof tasteandcakemethodsbatteror tendersandwichhasbasicmany tiny,Theyevenairdiscussedcells,givea sliceofingemployedinbreadthebakeshoparein Chapter8, PrefermentsandofNaturalStarters.Rich doughs,such as bakeshop products is theThefirstwhichstepin theproductionbreads,pastriesand otherairandcellschallahare createdexclusivelythe cakeprinciplesor bread a uniform fine texture or crumb. Theseflavorbriochedoughs,contain significantlymore sugarandfat than inChapteren Place. Once measured,during the themixingprocess.METHODSAND describestagesof the baking process Rich MIXINGdoughs bake into softerwith a tendercrust andTECHNIQUESinterior crumb. These areingredientsbeproductsmixedor combinedcorrectlyin order to achieve the desired results.Normally,fats do notblending,creaming,mustkneadingand applythe scienceof blendtaste withandwater.basicBeating,discussedin Chapter 9, Enriched Yeast Breads. A specific type of rich, flaky dough is madestirring breakfats intooftinytasteparticles,athehomog explaintheupscienceandallowingbasic them to blendThe withtechniquesto mix or combineingredientsaffectthe inbakedgood’sfinal roductsis theflavorprinciplesincorporatinglayersofand productionflour, referred toofas breads,lamination.pastriesThis doughis coveredenous mixture.Learn the difference in the mixingbytechniquesdescribedin ssists withthe following:measuringof Doughs.ingredientsMixingas discussedin Chapter4, Mise en Place. Once measured,Chapter10, Laminatedthen use the designated method with the appropriate equipment or tool to ensure aM01 LABE5000 04 SE C01.indd Page 15 17/10/19 2:43 PM gangaand texture.Mixing assistswiththe following:typesappearanceof yeast-raisedincludingsourdoughdiscussedin fats to emulsify enedVariousmixingbreadsmethodshelpChapter 8,and Natural Starters. To set yourself up for success, you may want PrefermentsEvenof dry andmixtureliquid ingredients.liquidsdistributionintoa homogenous(a mixture that is consistent throughout).to rereaddiscussionthe functionGluten is the tough, rubbery network of proteins createdwhenthewheatflour isofmixedwith of ingredients in Chapter 3, Bakeshop Ingredients, Activationemulsifycombinefat countryand a liquidinto aandbeforeBreakdownfatsproteinsand liquids,causingto blendor emulsifyFatselasticdo notofofthein wheatflour,themcausingthe formationof .theliquids.toGlutenhelps amakebread pter.homogeneousmixturebyonlyproperlyblendingdoes not containgluten;a doughor batter can contain gluten.Glutenisformedreadily combinewith water.Variousmixing methodshelpto emulsify. Glutendevelopmentis affectedby fatsfactorsincludingwithstructurecalled glutenwhen the proteins glutenin and gliadin in wheat flour are moistenedor ture(a mixturethatingredients.is consistent throughout).mixingtechnique,fat, moisture,formulatype andthe mixing process. IncorporationActivationof theproteinswheat (flour,causingthe formationthe elasticdevelopmentairis intoaffectedby a number ofYEASTfactors, includingmixing techniqueof airinto ainmixtureaeration) to helpit rise andofdevelopa lightaerateGlutento incorporatea mixtureP RintoO FtheE SlongerSION A L I isScalledM AtheN D .FGlutenO O D S A F E T Yis affected by factors includingand thepresencefat and tomoisture.Generally,a substancemixed,throughsiftingandofmixing;whip airglutentexturewhenbaked.Yeast breads structureare made fromdoughprepared with yeast.developmentUnder the right conditions, yeasta mixture to lighten it, such as beating s.in dough,causing fat,it to moisture,rise and becomeless dense.a livingacts as a leaveneremployingvariety leaveningof differentmethodscan accomplish many thingsorganism,Correctlyfungus. It is aabiologicalagent,mixingas opposedto a chemiwhites to a foam a one-celledIncorporationof airintoa mixture(aerationtoit rise anddevelopa lightaerate to incorporate air into a mixturecal leaveningagent.aChemicalleaveningagents are discussedin ChapterBreads.with onlyfew basicingredients.(See Table5.1.)6,) QuickForhelpexample,mixingmethodssuchthrough sifting and mixing; to whip air into Various everywhere.Yeastfeedsoncarbohydratesas blending, folding, sifting and stirring ensure that ingredients are properly combined.a mixture to lighten it, such as beating eggpresent in the starches and sugars in bread dough, converting them to carbon dioxideCuttingcombinesin this casesolidmethodsfat and dryin a specificCorrectlyemployingaknownvarietyof differentcan ingredients,accomplish manythings: mixingand ethanol,an alsoalcohol,in a processingredients,as fermentationwhites tofermentationa foam the process by which yeasthomogeneous mixture by properly blendingThe Importance of Gluteningredients Margin Definitionsgood-qualityfinished product.chapters in thisingredientsbookhowmustusingbe thesemixedor combinedcorrectlyin order to achieve the desired results.applythe scienceof tasteSubsequentand basic exploreEvendistributionof dryand liquidingredients.chapterin detailthe basicproductiontechniquesfor making lean doughs/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDmixing techniques, combinedwith various production Thismethodsandcoversingredients,createsThe yeasttechniquesusedto mixor combineingredientsaffectwiththeallbaked good’s final rinciplesinthischapterapplyto avarietyofdistinctbakeditems.emulsify to combine a fat and a liquid into aBreakdown of fats and liquids, causing themworkingto blendor emulsify. Fats do not The fine crumb in sandwich bread.Important terms aredefined in margin notesto help with retentionof new vocabulary andterminology.Proper cleaning proceduresprevent cross-contamination. The following steps canhelp kitchen staff decrease the risk of an illness being spread by poor personal hygiene: Safety Alertconvertsstarchsugar orintocake;alcoholmayand becrumb theinteriorofandbreadway todoughbakes CarbonintoTablea flaky crust or cookie. Beating, creaming,withonlyensureaYeastfew1thatbasica ingredients.Carbohydrates5 Alcohol 1(SeeDioxide5.1.) For example, mixing methods suchGlovesarenotsubstitutefor propercarbondioxide;ait alsorefers to the timeSingle-UseGloveselastic, aerated,fine or coarsegrained thatkneadingandwhippingincorporateair intoa batter,dough or foamduring mixing.blending, folding, siftingandstirringensurethat ingredientsare properlycombined.asWash hands frequently and thoroughly.yeast dough is left to rise—that is, the timeWhen yeast releases carbon dioxide gas during bread making, the gas becomeshand washing.it takes for carbon dioxide gas cells to formPocketsair (aircells)givesbakedgoodstheirfinaltextureafter , thiscaseofsolidfatpageanddry ingredients,in Aa specifictrappedinthe ,119.)and become trapped in the gluten networkWearingcleansingle-useThe trappedgasensureleavenstheprovidingthe desiredriseand tiny,texture.Thecakebatteror tenderbreadhas disposablemanyevenaircookie.cells, whichgivea slice of,interior computers,of bread or cake;may be pensBeating, creamingwaytothatbread,asandwichdoughbakesintoa flakycrustorsmallWash hands after using cell phones, tabletcrumbandthelaptopsharedorSafety sbaking. These air cells are created eoraerated, fine or coarse grainedglovesis thebestwayairtoduringavoidbare handkneadingandwhippingincorporateintoa batter,dough or foam during mixing.pencils and other objects that can harborelastic,harmfulbacteria and microorganisms.duringthemixingprocess.of air(aircells)baked goodstheirfinalBrief notes highlight to-eatfoodssuchas texture after baking. A butteryandSalt givesKeep fingernails short, clean and neat. Do not biteissuesnails orandwearnail thepolish,Normally,do orfatstendersandwichbreadhas manytiny, evenair cells,which kneadinggive a sliceandofAs withmostbatterliving things,yeastverysensitiveto temperatureandgarnishingmoisture.It breakup fatsinto(24 Ctinyfineparticles,themto34 Fblendwithareliquidsintoexclusivelya homogbetween75 Fand95 Fand35 C).At allowingtemperaturesbelow(2 C),which poses a chemical contamination hazard. tance of incorporatingtemperatures. Theseaircellscreatedthe cakeor breada uniformtextureor crumbfoodorLearnportioningbaked goodsas cookenousthe differencein the suchmixingtechniques described in Table 5.1,during mixture.the mixingprocess.Keep cuts or wounds antiseptically bandaged. An injuredhandalso besafetyandshouldsanitationintothenuse the fatsdesignatedmethodwiththe appropriateequipmentor toolkneadingto ensureies,docakesbrownies.Normally,not orblendwithwater.Beating, blending,creaming,andacovered with a disposable glove.good-qualityproduct.Subsequentchaptersin tothisbookwithexplorehowthesestirring break finishedup fats intotiny particles,allowingthemblendliquidsintousinga homogregular kitchen activities.mixingtechniques,combinedwith variousmethods andingredients,createsenous mixture.Learnthe differencein theproductionmixing techniquesdescribedin Table5.1,Bathe daily, or more often if required.athenvarietybakedmethoditems. with the appropriate equipment or tool to ensure ause ofthedistinctdesignatedKeep hair clean and restrained.good-quality finished product. Subsequent chapters in this book explore howiiiusing thesemixingImportancetechniques, combinedwith various production methods and ingredients, createsWear work clothes that are clean and neat. Avoid wearing jewelry or watches.Theof Glutena varietyis ofitems.Glutenthedistincttough,bakedrubberynetwork of proteins created when wheat flour is mixed withDo not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in food preparation areas. 15The fine crumb in sandwich bread.Procedure for Proper Hand WashingThe fine crumb in sandwich bread.liquids. Gluten helps make country bread chewy and pound cake light and tender. FlourTheof Glutendoes Importancenot contain gluten;only a dough or batter can contain gluten. Gluten is formedwhenproteinsgliadinwheat createdflour arewhenmoistenedhydratedduringGlutentheis thetough,gluteninrubberyandnetworkof inproteinswheat orflouris mixedwiththemixingprocess.liquids.Glutenhelps make country bread chewy and pound cake light and tender. FlourGlutendevelopmentaffectedby a ornumberincludingdoesnot containgluten;isonlya doughbatter ofcanfactors,containgluten. mixingGluten techniqueis formedand the presence of fat and moisture. Generally, the longer a substance is mixed, the

blind. To help crusts retain their shape, bakers may prick small holes in the pie shelldough with a fork or paring knife, a technique known as docking, before baking. TheA01 LABE5000 04 SE FM.inddPage10/18/19AMf-0039unbaked pie shell should be linedwith 4parchmentpaper or7:18greasedaluminumfoil(greased side down) and filled with pie (baking) weights, dry raw rice or dried beans. Anempty pie or tart pan may be used as a baking weight when making blind-baked pie ortart shells. (Weights are needed to keep the sides of the pie or tart shell from collapsing.)Bake the pie shell at 350 F (180 C) until the crust has set so it will not puff up. This typically takes 10–15 minutes or longer, depending on the size of the pan and the thicknessof the dough. After the crust is set, remove the weights, dock the dough again if neededand return the shell to the oven to finish baking for approximately 10–15 minutes more.Note that the rice or beans may be reused several times for future pies or tarts, but shouldnot be cooked and consumed.To help retain crispness once filled, the crust may be coated with a thin layer of eggwash during the final minutes of baking. A baked crust can also be brushed with a thinlayer of caramel or melted chocolate for the same effect. Unfilled baked crusts can bestored at room temperature 2–3 days, or wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen as long as3 months.dough or crust to allow steam to escape andto prevent the dough from rising when bakeda shallow rim on only one side; this makes it easy to/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDmaking cookies, bright, shiny baking sheets promotepans may be used when baking bread and pastriesallow more air to come in direct contact with theAdjustable frames, called pan extenders, made from sthe same dimension as sheet pans, are available. Pathe product during baking and increase the heightfor baking large sheet cakes.Hotel PansPlacing a second tartlet pan on top of thedough to prevent it from puffing as it bakes.Full- and half-size sheet pans Procedure for Blind Baking a Pie or Tart ShellProcedures for Featured procedures for doing a specific techniqueTart PansTart pans come in individual and large sizes and in rouAssortment of bread pans, strap pans,include step-by-step instructionsandphotographsSome have fluted edges or removable bottoms, makintube pans andspecialtycake pansof various stages in preparing ingredients or ex- the pan easier.ecutingThese summaries encourage Cake and Bread PansC H A P T E R TaH R technique.EEProperly designed cake pans heat evenly to allow deproper mise en place and organization.batters to rise properly. Most commercial cake pansM03 LABE5000 04 SE C03.indd Page 74 10/17/19 2:00 PM f-00398899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUND .❶ Line the pie or tart pan or ring mold❷ Press the parchment paper against the❸ Lift off the paper to remove the weights.with dough. Dock the dough with a fork,if desired. Chill for 1 hour to maintain theshape during baking. Cut a piece of parchment paper into a round that is slightlylarger than the pan. Using scissors, cutthe edge of the paper into ½-inch(1.2-centimeter-) wide strips the depth ofthe pan so that it will fit into the shell.walls of the shell, allowing a portion of itto extend above the pan. Fill the pan withpie weights, raw rice or dried beans. Bakethe weighted crust at 350 F (180 C) for10–15 minutes.Dock the crust with a fork and return itto the oven. Bake until golden brown,approximately 10–15 minutes. Cool, thenfill as desired.Kumquatsare made from a heavy 16–20 gauge aluminum andcomebitterin aflesh.varietyof sizes. Angel food, Bundt andKumquats are bite-sized oval fruits with a soft, sweet skin and slightlyTheykugelhopf pans are round pans with hollow conescan be eaten whole, either raw or preservedsyrupor jam.Tart paninwithremovablein their center; they are also known as tube pans.bottomThis design brings heat to the interior of the batterLemonsand is beneficial when baking heavy batters, as well asM02 LABE5000 04 SE C02.inddPage 26 17/10/192:43 PMgangaThe most commonlyused citrusfruitsare the oval, bright /209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBdelicate egg foam cakes.yellow lemons (Fr. citrons). Their strongly acidic flavorMost bread pans are made from heavy-gauge amakes them unpleasant to eat raw but perfect for flaKumquatsminum or coated steel in a variety of rectangularvoring desserts and confections. Lemon zest is canWhenbread pans are joined together in a frame, thedied or used as garnish. The round, smooth-skinned,sign allows the baker to easily move a large numbejuicy Meyer lemon has a sweet, less-acidic flavor andat one Lemonstime.aCstrong26H A P Taroma.ER TWOSpringform pans have a removable bottom and sSpringform panspring mechanism. Cheesecakes and fragile desserts thLimesreinforcedto takepressure.oftenMostbakedkitchenshave a set ofround cutters in graduatein springformpans.Limes (Fr. citrons verts; Sp. limóns verdes)are similarto lemcutterconsistof onemoreroundbladesa rollingFlan rings, whichareoralsocalledringmoldsmount, areons in appearance, but they have thinandskinsrangingfrom. Rolling cuttersareraw;used to portiontrim Theyedgeslookon pastrybefore bakformedpizzas,into rings.like bottomlesscake pansyellow-green to dark green. Limes arehandle.too tartTheyto soknownaspan and are used to mold or contain mousses and icethey are sometimes used interchangeably with lemons. Theirwheels, rollingmultiplebladesseveralof doughcakeand cutfillingmay stripsbe placedin a ring moljuice adds its distinctive flavor to ices, curdsandsorbet.cuttersLime withbakeda 4-inchbe(10-centimeter)roundfromcutterat andoneflavortime. toA doughnutwhichis woulddifficult to unmolda standard cazest can be grated and used to give colora variety cutter/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY Onsomedoughnutof dishes. The key lime is a smaller tart lime variety native to South the mousse or torte maintains the mold’s shape.models,a lever releasesMuffintheLimessmallcenterof dough,whicha number orings orring moldsKey limespansmakepieceit possibleto bakeFloridaRollingused tocuttermake key lime pie.Flan cutterbecomes the doughnut ts of smaller molds,Dougsuchtartlets or madeleine cookies, speed the productioncutofOrangesProduct Identification3 14 cm) each/209/PH03649/9780135238899 LABENSKY/LABENSKY A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUND . OR TE74Hotel pans (also known as steam table pans) are rectanless steel pans designed to hold food for service in stables. Hotel pans are also used for baking, roasting or poaching inside an oven. Perforated hotelpans, which are useful for draining, steaming or cooling foods down with ice, are alsoavailable. The standard full-size hotel pan is12 inches 20 inches (30 centimeters 50centimeters). Hotel pans that are one-half, onethird, one-sixth and other fractions of this size arealso available. Hotel pan depth is standardized at2 inches (referred to as a “200 pan”), 4 inches, 6 inches8 inches (5, 10, 15 and 20 centimeters).Hundreds of original photographs that identifyCHAPTER SIXTEENCR E AM ( CR È ME ) CO MP O N E N T STables Tables and figures offerxtract. Place slightly

Chapters are grouped into four areas essential to a well-rounded baking and pastry professional: Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field with material on culinary and baking history, food safety, tools, ingredients and baking science. Breads Five chapters focus on breadmaking, from basic quickbreads to yeast breads