Traditional Fermented Food And Beverages For Improved .

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Diversification booklet number 21al fermentednoitidarTfood and beveragesfor improvedlivelihoodsElaine Marshall and Danilo MejiaRural Infrastructure and Agro-Industries DivisionFood and Agriculture Organization of the United NationsRome 2011

The designations employed and the presentation of material in thisinformation product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoeveron the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations(FAO) concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory,city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of itsfrontiers or boundaries. The mention of specific companies or products ofmanufacturers, whether or not these have been patented, does not implythat these have been endorsed or recommended by FAO in preference toothers of a similar nature that are not mentioned.The views expressed in this information product are those of the author(s)and do not necessarily reflect the views of FAO.ISBN 978-92-5-107074-1All rights reserved. FAO encourages reproduction and dissemination ofmaterial in this information product. Non-commercial uses will be authorizedfree of charge, upon request. Reproduction for resale or other commercialpurposes, including educational purposes, may incur fees. Applications forpermission to reproduce or disseminate FAO copyright materials, and allqueries concerning rights and licences, should be addressed by e-mail tocopyright@fao.org or to the Chief, Publishing Policy and Support Branch,Office of Knowledge Exchange, Research and Extension, FAO,Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00153 Rome, Italy. FAO 2012

vvii1 The origin and rationale of fermentation:Traditions and culture Diversity of fermented products Fermented foods Traditional beers and wines Market potential Purpose of the booklet Fermentation and sustainable livelihoods Food security and cultural importance Nutritional value Benefits to small-scale farming systems Adding value Employment benefits Financial rewards Gender development Traditional medicinal value Essentials of fermentation1346121315151922232325262729 What’s involved: Key steps in fermentedfoods and beverages29 Fermentation skills and techniques30 Overview of fermented fruits and vegetablesfrom around the world32 Overview of fermented grains and cerealsfrom around the world42Table of contents Preface Acknowledgements Introduction

Strategies for successful income generation Market appraisal Marketing strategies Organization for the enterprise Summary5353556061 Support services to promote fermented foodsand beverages Public policy Technical training Business skills development Financial services Technology transfer Advisory roles Opportunities and challenges Public policy: Regulations and laws Safety and quality Gender issues People with disabilities Enterprise sustainability Selected further reading Sources of further information and support636364656566697172727273737579Table of contents

The purpose of the FAO Diversification booklets is to raise awareness andprovide decision support information about opportunities at farm and localcommunity level to increase the incomes of small-scale farmers.Each booklet focuses on a farm or non-farm enterprise that can beintegrated into small farms to increase incomes and enhance livelihoods. Theenterprises profiled in the FAO Diversification booklets selected are suitablefor smallholder farmers in terms of resource requirements, additional costs,exposure to risk and complexity. The products or services generated by theenterprises are suitable for meeting demand on a growing, or already strong,local market and are not dependent on an export market. However, in thisbooklet export markets will be considered, because enterprise development,local markets and prices will be influenced by imports.The main target audience for these booklets are people and organizationsthat provide advisory, business and technical support services to resourcepoor small-scale farmers and local communities in low- and middle-incomecountries. It is hoped that enough information is given to help these supportservice providers to consider new income-generating opportunities and howthese might enable small-scale farmers to take action. What are the potentialbenefits? What are farmer requirements and constraints? What are critical‘success factors’?The Diversification booklets are also targeted to policy-makers andprogramme managers in government and non-governmental organizations.What actions might policy-makers take to create enabling environments forsmall-scale farmers to diversify into new income-generating activities?The Diversification booklets are not intended to be technical ‘how todo it’ guidelines. Readers will need to seek more information or technicalsupport, so as to provide farmer advisory and support activities relating tothe introduction of new income-generating activities. To assist in this respect,vTraditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsPreface

each booklet identifies additional sources of information, technical supportand website addresses.A CD has been prepared with a full series of Diversification booklets,relevant FAO technical guidelines, together with complementary guidelineson market research, financing, business planning, etc. Copies of the CD areavailable on request from FAO. FAO Diversification Booklets also can bedownloaded from the FAO Internet site.If you find this booklet of value, we would like to hear from you. Tellyour colleagues and friends about it. FAO would welcome suggestions aboutpossible changes for enhancing our next edition or regarding relevant topicsfor other booklets. By sharing your views and ideas with us we can providebetter services to you.vi

Gratitude is owed to Doyle Baker, Senior Technical Officer, Rural Infrastructureand Agro-Industries Division, (AGS), FAO, who provided for a detailedtechnical review on a previous draft version of this booklet. Special thanksalso go to Alexandra Röttger, Agribusiness Economist, (AGS), StepankaGallatova, Agro-Industry Officer, (AGS), Divine Njie, Senior Officer, (AGS),and Martin Hilmi, Small Enterprise Management and Marketing Consultant,(AGS), for their reviews, inputs and advice on previous drafts of this booklet.Acknowledgements for the seriesGratitude is owed to Doyle Baker, Senior Technical Officer, Rural Infrastructureand Agro-Industries Division (AGS), FAO, for his vision, encouragement andconstant support in the development of the FAO Diversification booklet series.Martin Hilmi managed the development, production and post-productionof the series and provided technical support and inputs. Michael Breeceundertook the design and layout of the booklets and desktop publishing.viiTraditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsAcknowledgements

Fermented products can play animportant role contributing tothe livelihoods of rural and periurban dwellers alike, throughenhanced food security, and incomegeneration via a valuable smallscale enterprise option. There issuch a diversity of fermentablesubstrate available year round, thatthe activity can provide a regularincome.Althoughharvestingor substrate may be seasonal,fermentation itself is largelyindependent of weather, and byproducts can be recycled intolivestock fodder.Fermentationactivitiesarehighly combinable with a varietyof other traditional and domesticactivities, and can make aparticularly important contributionto the livelihoods of women, thedisabled and landless poor who,with appropriate training andaccess to inputs, can increase theirindependence and self-esteemthrough income generation.In the world there are a largevariety of fermented foods andbeverages with traditional andcultural value. The diversity ofsuch fermented products derivesfrom the heterogeneity of traditionsfound in the world, culturalpreference, different geographicalareas where they are produced andthe staple and/or by-products usedfor fermentation. In many instancesit is highly likely that the methodsof production were unknown andcame about by chance, and passeddown by cultural and traditionalvalues to subsequent generations.Some of the most popular fermentedproducts derive from grain, fruitand vegetables and are alcoholicbased – most notably and popularlya variety of traditional beers andwines. There are also many fermentedfood products which are extremelyimportant in meeting the nutritionalrequirements of a large proportion ofthe global population. Such productshave a long history of production via“kitchen” fermentation, contributingto household nutrition and to importantsocio-cultural practices. The origin and rationale offermentation: Traditions andcultureTogether with drying and salting,fermentation is one of the oldestmethods of food preservation, and1Traditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsIntroduction

CASE STUDY 1Fermented beverages: A 9 000 year historyIn 2004 a study confirmed that over 9 000 years ago people of the globe were alreadyfermenting beverages. Ancient organic material preserved in pottery jars from theNeolithic village of Jiahu, in Henan province, Northern China, have revealed, viachemical analyses, that a beverage composed of rice, honey, and fruit was beingproduced at approximately the same time that barley beer and grape wine werebeginning made in the Middle East. Additional liquids, dated at over 3 000 years oldwere also remarkably preserved inside tightly lidded bronze vessels. These vesselsfrom the capital city of Anyang and an elite burial in the Yellow River Basin, dating tothe Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties (ca. 1 250-1 000 B.C.), contained specializedrice and millet “wines.” The beverages had been flavoured with herbs, flowers, and/or tree resins, and are similar to herbal wines described in the Shang dynasty oracleinscriptions.Source: Adapted form Science Daily. 2004. 9 000-Year History of Chinese Fermented BeveragesConfirmed (Available at 6205817.htm)embedded in traditional cultures andvillage life. Fermentation processesare believed to have been developedover the years by women, in order topreserve food for times of scarcity,to impart desirable flavour to foods,and to reduce toxicity (Rolle andSatin, 2002). Today, fermentation isstill widely practised as a householdor village-level technology in manycountries, but comparatively veryfew operations are carried out at anindustrial level (Holzapfel, 2002). Asa technology, food fermentation datesback at least 6 000 years, and probablyoriginated from microbial interactionsof an acceptable nature (see CaseStudy 1). Fermentation has enabledour ancestors in temperate and coolerregions to survive winter season andthose in the tropics to survive drought2periods, by improving the shelf-lifeand safety of foods and beverages.The importance of fermentationin modern-day life is underlined bythe wide spectrum of foods marketedboth in developing and industrializedcountries, not only for the benefit ofpreservation and safety, but also for theirhighly appreciated sensory attributes.Fermented foods are treasured asmajor dietary constituents in numerousdeveloping countries because oftheir keeping quality under ambientconditions - thereby contributing tofood security - and because they addvalue, enhance nutritional quality anddigestibility, improve food safety,and are traditionally acceptable andaccessible (Holzapfel, 2002, Rolleand Satin, 2002). Fermentation is alow-input enterprise and provides

Diversity of fermented productsA diversity of fermented products,includingporridges,beverages(alcoholic and non-alcoholic), breadsand pancakes, fermented meat,fish, vegetables, dairy products andcondiments (Campbell-Platt, 1987;Steinkraus, 1996) are producedfrom both edible and inedible rawmaterials in many countries. Theseare well documented in an FAOpublication series on fermentedfoods (see FAO, 1998, 1999, 2000),and summarised in Box 1, and manyare presented as case studies in thesection on Essentials of fermentation.Fermented cereals and fermentedroots and tubers are consumed asdietary staples throughout Africa,Asia, and Latin America, in variousforms including breads, porridges,gruels, and pickles.A wide range of grains, fruitand vegetables are also used tomanufacture beverages, both thirstquenching products (mostly nonalcoholic), and those which aregenerally alcoholic and consumed onspecial occasions, including festivals.The former include tea, coffee, juices,nectars, syrups, and carbonatedsoft drinks. In some countries theseare also used on special occasions,whereas in others alcoholic beverages,which may or may not be distilled,are preferred (Fellows and Hampton,1992). In most countries, the marketfor alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinksis specific with regard to religious andcultural taboos.3Traditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsindividuals with limited purchasingpower, access to safe, inexpensive andnutritious foods.Preservation and safeguardingof foods and beverages remain theprincipal objectives of fermentation,with wholesomeness, acceptabilityand overall quality, having becomeincreasingly valued features toconsumers, especially in rural areaswhere old traditions and culturalparticularities in food fermentationsare generally well maintained. Thetradition of fermented beverages islong embedded in many cultures,and despite traditional productiontechnologies remaining, there ispotential for extension services tointroduce some improved methods,particularly those for hygiene andsafety. However, it must be notedin this context, despite modern foodbiotechnology making significanttechnological advances, limitationsin infrastructure and existing lowtechnologies in rural areas of mostcountries create challenges to keepingabreast of global developments towardindustrialization (Holzapfel, 2002) andalso importantly in terms of quality andsafety of products.

BOX 1 Examples of foods and additives manufactured usingindustrial fermentation processes in developing countries. Alcoholic beverages, including some spirits, but largely wines and beerMilk and milk products, including cultured milks, yogurts, and cheesesFlavours, namely monosodium glutamate, and nucleotidesOrganic acids such as lactic, citric, and acetic acidsAmino acids of lysine and glutamic acidVitamins A, C, B12, and riboflavinEnzymes Amylases such as proteases and invertases.Source: FAO.2000. Fermented grain legumes, seeds and nuts: A global perspective, by S.S.Deshpnade, D.K. Salunkhe, O.B. Oyewole, S.Azam-Ali, M. Battcock & R. Bressani, FAOAgricultural Services Bulletin No.142, Rome Fermented FoodsTable 1 provides an overview offermented foods from around theworld. The fermentation processof some of these is detailedin the case studies presentedin the section on Essentials offermentation.TABLE 1 Fermented foods from around the worldRegion and name of fermented productsType of productIndian sub-continentAcar, Achar, Tandal achar, Garam nimbooacharPickled fruit and vegetablesGundrukFermented dried vegetableLemon pickle, Lime pickle, Mango pickleSouth East AsiaAsinan, Burong mangga, Dalok, Jeruk,Kiam-chai, Kiam-cheyi, Kong-chai, Naw-maidong, Pak-siam-dong, Paw-tsay, Phak-dong,Phonlami-dong, Sajur asin, Sambal tempojak, Santol, Si-sek-chai, Sunki, Tang-chai,Tempoyak, Vanilla,4Pickled fruit and vegetables

TABLE 1 Fermented foods from around the world (Cont.)Region and name of fermented productsType of productBai-ming, Leppet-so, MiangFermented tea leavesNata de coco, Nata de pinaFermented fruit juiceTraditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsSouth East AsiaEast AsiaBossam-kimchi, Chonggak-kimchi, Danmoogi, Dongchimi, Kachdoo kigactuki,Kakduggi, Kimchi, Mootsanji, Muchungkimchi, Oigee, Oiji, Oiso baegi, Tongbaechukimchi, Tongkimchi, Totkal kimchi,Fermented in brineCha-ts’ai, Hiroshimana, Jangagee, Narasenkei, Narazuke, Nozawana, Nukamisozuke, Omizuke, Pow tsai, Red in snow,Seokbakji, Shiozuke, Szechwan cabbage,Tai-tan tsoi, Takana, Takuan, Tsa Tzai, Tsu,Umeboshi, Wasabi-zuke, Yen tsaiPickled fruit and vegetablesHot pepper sauceAfricaFruit vinegarVinegarHot pepper sauceLamoun makbouss, Mauoloh, Msir, Mslalla,OlivePickled fruit and vegetablesOilseeds, Ogili, Ogiri, Hibiscus seedFermented fruit, vegetableseedsWinesFermented fruits5

TABLE 1 Fermented foods from around the world (Cont.)Region and name of fermented productsType of productAmericasCucumber pickles, Dill pickles, Olives,SauerkrautPickled fruit and vegetablesLupin seed, OilseedsPickled oilseedVanilla, WinesFermented fruit and vegetableMiddle EastKushukFermented fruit and vegetablesLamoun makbouss, Mekhalel, Olives, Torshi,TursuPickled fruit and vegetablesWinesFermented fruitsEurope and WorldMushrooms, YeastMouldsOlives, Sauerkohl, SauerrubenPickled fruit and vegetablesGrape vinegar, Wine vinegarVinegarWines, CitronFermented fruitsSource: Adapted from Cambell Platt,G.1987. Fermented foods of the world-A dictionary and guide,Butterworths, London Traditional beers and wineWhile there are many different typesof fermented drinks (see Case Study62) the most commonly available andbest known are beer and wine (seeTable 2).

TABLE 2 Fermented beverages from around the worldName of fermentedbeverageName of distilledbeverageBarleybeer, aleScotch whiskyRyerye beerrye whiskyCorncorn beerbourbon whiskeyWheatwheat beerwheat whisky, Korn (Germany)Ricesake sontishochu (Japan), soja (Korea)Juice of fruits,other than applesor pearswine (mostcommonly thought offrom grapes)brandy, cognac (France),Branntwein (Germany), pisco(Peru/Chile)Juice of apples(“hard”) cider,apfelweinapplejack (or apple brandy),CalvadosJuice of pearsperry, or pear ciderpear brandyJuice of sugarcane, or molassesbasi, betsa-betsa(regional)rum, cachaça, aguardiente,guaroJuice of agavepulquetequila, mezcalJuice of plumsplum wineslivovitz, tzuica, palincaPomacepomace winegrappa (Italy), Trester(Germany), marc (France)Honeymeaddistilled mead (“mead brandy” or“honey brandy”)Potato and/or grainpotato beervodka: potato mostly used inUkraine, otherwise grainMilkKumisArakaTraditional fermented food and beverages for improved livelihoodsSourceSource: FAO.2011. Manufacturing fruit wines-a practical guide, by J. De La Cruz Medina & H.S.Garcia, Rome (Unpublished)7

CASE STUDY 2Mezcal making in MexicoMezcals are spirits prepared by distilling cooked and fermented agave plants: atradition which has been passed down from one generation to another for hundredsof years, and takes place in small rustic distilleries or fábricas, located close to watersources. Mezcal dates back 10 000 years when baked agaves were the main foodstufffor hunters and gatherers, and the fermented beverage a basic alcohol enslavedFilipinos introduced it in the 16th century. After some escaped and blended with thelocal population, mezcal became the distinctive indigenous liquor. Some 15 agavespecies are used in different regions of Mexico and each mezcal is different, bothbecause of the species and because of the tools and processes used in its preparationTraditionally only men are involved in the production and trading of mezcal, and localdistilleries are owned by individuals who have managed to accumulate sufficientcapital. Such enterprises can offer local men, who choose to be paid in cash ratherthan mezcal, sufficient employment and income to prevent seasonal migration insearch of paid work. From a case study in Guerrero, Mexico, a group of distillers from30 communities formed a bottling and commercialization enterprise, and a grower anddistiller association, which certifies the mezcal as being of high quality, limited supply,and deriving from a sustainable harvest. The vast majority of community producedmez

the Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties (ca. 1 250-1 000 B.C.), contained specialized rice and millet “wines.” The beverages had been flavoured with herbs, flowers, and/ or tree resins, and are similar to herbal wines described in the Shang dynasty oracle inscriptions.

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