FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF VARIOUS COSMETIC AND DENTAL .

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FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OFVARIOUS COSMETIC AND DENTALPRODUCT1) DEFINITION:The term cosmetics have been derived from the term “COSMETIKOS” which means theskill to decorate. Thus cosmetics is the art of decorating yourself to lookbeautiful.According to D & C Act:Cosmetics mean any articles meant to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on orintroduced into or otherwise applied to any part of the human body for cleansing,beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance and include any articleintended for use as a component of cosmetic. Soap is not covered under cosmeticproduct.2) CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS:-3) INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS:1. Water2. Oils, Fats, Waxes3. HumectantsPHARMAQUEST

4.5.6.7.8.SurfactantsPreservativesPerfumes And ColorsHerbal Or Plant MaterialFunctional Raw Materials1. WATER:It is the main ingredient of cosmetics formulation. Thus stability and quality of final product isdependent on the purity of water used so pure water should be used in manufacturing ofcosmetics. Pure water on large scale can be manufactured by any of the methods mentionedbelow. Ion exchange system Distillation Reverse osmosis2. OIL, FATS and WAXES:These are used in preparation of creams, lotions, brilliantine, hair oil, lipsticks etc. The sourceof oil, fat & wax can be mineral source & animal source. The source and example is givenbelow.Source:-1) Mineral source-mineral oil-paraffin and petroleum jelly2) Animal source-wool fat-bees wax, SpermacetiOILS:Name of oil(Vegetable)AlmondUse in cosmeticsCreams (emollient)ArachisCastorOliveHair oil, BrilliantinesLip stick, hair oil cream ,lotionBath oils ,creams lotionsType of mineral oilUse in cosmetics productLight liquid paraffinIn bath oil, hair oil,lotions,creams,brilliantineHeavy liquid paraffinIn bath oil, hair oil,lotions,creams,brilliantine(emollient) waxes:- The commonly used waxes in preparation of cosmetics Include bees wax,spermaceti,ceresin,ozokerite wax3. HUMECTANTS:This is added to prevent drying out of cosmeticsPHARMAQUEST

(e.g. o/w creams)Type of Humectant1.Inorganic2.Metal organic3.OrganicExamplesCalcium chloride (not used now due to compatibility problems)Sodium lactate (used in sunscreen lotions)Polyethylene glycol, Propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, mannitol,glucose4. SURFACTANTS:Surfactants lower one or more boundary tensions at interface in the system. one commonfeature of surfactant is that they all are amphipathic molecules containing a hydrophobic part& a hydrophilic part. Used in cosmetics to impart following functions:.DETERGENCY, WETTING, FOAMING, EMULSIFICATION, SOLUBILIZATIONSurfactants on basis of their ionic behavior can be divided into following 4 types:Type of surfactant1.Anionic2.CationicExamplesFatty acid soaps, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, polyethylene glycolester,alkyl ether sulphates taurines,sarcosinates etc.Alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, Dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts alkylpyridinium salts, quaternised diamine salts.3. Non ionicAlkanolamides,alkyl polyglycol ether, thioethers,alkyl polyethyleneimine amides.4.AmpholyticBetains, alkylimidazolines, acyl peptides,etc.5. PRESERVATIVES:Used to prevent spoilage which occurs due to1) Oxidation of oils2) Microbial growth Unused cosmetics are usually contaminated wit PSEUDOMONAS but used cosmeticsare contaminated with STAPHYLOCOCCI,FUNGI,YEAST Types of preservatives :1) Anti microbial agents:- e.g. .Benzoic acid, formaldehyde, cresol, phenol,thiomersol,phenyl mercuric salts. Etc.2) Antioxidants :- Gallic acid, methyl gallate,BHA,BHT,Tocopherol, citricacid,Ethanolamine,lecithin,ascorbic acid, sodium sulphite,Sodium metabisulphite3) Antioxidant synergists: - Enhance the efficacy of antioxidants. examplesinclude:-ascorbic acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid4) UV absorbers:-These are mainly used in products which are vulnerable tovisible or UV light. By incorporating UV absorbers colorless containers can beused if deterioration is due to UV light only.PHARMAQUEST

6. PERFUMES:The word perfume has been derived from “per” means through and “fumum” means smoke.It suggests that early perfumes were pleasant smells obtained by burning woodand grass etc.Source of perfumeNatural(Animal source)Natural(Plant source)Aroma chemicalFloral baseWoody baseExampleMusk ,civet, Ambergris, Castroreum etc.Rose ,jasmine, lemon, lavender etc.Eugenol, Farnesal, Rose oxide, Citral ,LimoneneRose base, Jasmine baseCitrus base(in colognes),spice base, oriental base,fruity base ,etc7. COLORS:It defined as visual sensation caused by a definite wavelength by an object by one/morephenomenon of emission, reflection, refraction, transmission.Colors can be classified into three classes:a) Natural colors:- Plant source :- e.g. Saffron, turmericAnimal source:-e.g. Cochineal (red)b) Inorganic colors:- e.g. Iron oxides, chromium oxides, carbon black, titanium dioxide,zinc oxide etc.c) Coal tar colors:-Tartrazine, amaranth, Erythrosine, Indigocarmine. etc.8.HERBAL OR PLANT MATERIAL:These herbal or plant materials are used in different cosmetics preparations.NAMEUSE IN COSMETICSAlmondFacial and body scrubsAzadiractaTooth paste and skin careComfreyCreams and lotionsTulsiSkin cream and lotionsCucumberMasks, toner, cleanserHennaDyeing of hairAmlaShampooJasmineHair oilLemonSkin tonic, cleansersPHARMAQUEST

ApricotFacial and body scrubs9. FUNCTIONAL RAW MATERIALS:These agents contribute towards some functional property .TYPEEXAMPLE & USEVITAMINSVit C (antioxidant in emulsion),vit A,Vit E (skin beautification)AMINO ACIDSAV HILL MP TT(all essential amino acids)ANTI INFLAMMATORYAGENTSAllantoin (hand cream & lotion) Cade oil(eczema&psoriasis),CalamineSUNSCREENAGENTSPABA, Vitamin C, Quinine saltsCoumarin derivativesANTIDANDRUFFSelenium, cadmium sulphide, ZPTO(4) FORMULATION COSMETICS FOR SKINFunction:1) To provide decoration2) To supplement natural functions of skinType of cosmetics used for skin:1. Skin cream2. Lotion3. Face powder & Compacts4. Skin colorants5. Body powder6. Face pack & Masks7. Bath Preparations (bath salt,oil,powder,foam)8. Astringents &Skin tonics (antiperspirants, astringent lotion, preshave & after shavelotion, colognes)1. CREAMS: - These are the solid or semisolid preparation which is either a o/w or w/otype emulsion.TYPES OF CREAMS:A. Cleansing creamB. Massage creamsC. Night creamsD. Moisturizing creamsPHARMAQUEST

E. Foundation creamsF. Vanishing creamsG. All purpose creamsA) CLEANSING CREAM:- Cleansing cream is required for removal of facial make up, surfacegrime, oil, water and oil soluble soil efficiently mainly from the face & throat.Characteristic of a good cleansing cream:1) Be able to effectively remove oil soluble & water soluble soil, surface oil from skin.2) Should be stable &have good appearance.3) Should melt or soften on application to the skin4) Should spread easily without too much of drag.5) Its physical action on skin & pore openings should be that of flushing rather thanabsorptionType of cleansing cream:I.) Anhydrous type:- It contains mixture of hydrocarbon, oils and waxes. It alsocontains cetyl alcohol, spermaceti, cocoa butter, fatty acid esters etc. Notpopular.Mineral oil-80 gm,Petroleum jelly– 15gmOzokerite wax -5 gmPreservative and perfumes –q.sNote :- Formation crusty surface is avoided by adding Ozokerite & petrolatum(prevent bleeding of mineral oils.)Opaque character obtained by adding Zno, mg.stearate, Tio2II.) Emulsified type:- They can be either o/w or w/o type.Common Ingredients:Oil phase .Spread easilyWaxes .Give appropriate thixotropyEmollient material likes cetyl alcohol, spermaceti, lanolinWater phase with preservativeDifferent types:(1) Cold Cream:- Cooling effect is produced due to slow evaporation of the watercontained in the formulation. These are w/o type.(2) Beeswax Borax type:- These contain high percentage of mineral oil. These are o/wtype. This cream contains high amount of mineral oil for cleansing action. Basicallythese are o/w type emulsion. After the cream is being rubbed into the skin sufficientquantity of water evaporates to impart a phase inversion to the w/o type. Thesolvent action of the oil as external phase imparts cleansing property. In this type ofcream borax reacts with free fatty acids present in the bees wax and produces softsoap which acts as the emulsifying agent and emulsifies the oil phase .A typical formulation:Bees wax -2 gmBorax-2 gmAlmond oil -50 gm Rose water 35.5 gmLanolin– 0.5gmpreservative and perfume –q.sPHARMAQUEST

B) NIGHT & MASSAGE CREAM:These are generally applied on the skin and left for several hours say overnight and assistin the repair of skin which has been damaged by exposure to various elements or exposure todetergent solution or soap. The mostly have a moisturizing & a nourishing effect of affectedskin. These also contain vitamins and hormones basing on the application. This cream givebetter look to the skin and prevent dryness.A typical formulation Mineral oil-38gmBorax 1gmPetroleum jelly-8gmWater 35gmWhite bees wax-15gmPerfume & preservative q.sParaffin wax – 1.0gmLanolin 2gmC) VANISHING CREAM:These are named so as they seem to vanish when applied to the skin. High quantity of stearicacid as oil phase used.This provides an oil phase which melts above body temp, andcrystsllises in a suitable form, so as to invisible in use and give a non greasy film. Main component is emollient esters ,stearic acids Part of stearic acid is saponified with an alkali & rest of stearic acid is emulsified thissoap in large quantity of water. The quality of cream depends on the amount of acid saponified & nature of alkaliused. NaoH makes harder cream than koH. Borax makes cream very white but product has tendency to grain. Pearliness can be attained using liq.paraffin, cocoa butter, starch, castor oil, almondoil. Ammonia solution has a tendency to discolor creams made with it after some time. Cetyl alcohol improves texture and stability at low temperature without affectingsheen.A typical formulationStearic acid 15gmGlycerin 5gmKOH 0.5 gmwater 75.82 gmNaOH 0.18 gmpreservative &perfume q.sCetyl alcohol 0.50 gmPropylene glycol 3.0gmStearic acid has whiteness like snow so some times the preparation is called asSNOW.D) FOUNDATION CREAM: Applied to skin to provide a smooth emollient base or foundation for the application offace powder & other make up preparations. They help the powder to adhere to skin.They are almost o/w type.Types:1) Pigmented2) UnpigmentedA typical formulation Lanolin 2 gmPropylene glycol 8gmPHARMAQUEST

Cetyl alcohol 0.50 gmStearic acid 10gmKoH 0.40 gmwater 79.10 gmPerfume &preservative q.sE) HAND & BODY CREAM: The repeated or constant contact with soap and detergent damages & removes film ofsebum thus this cream is used to impart following functions to the skin. The function of these creams are- Replace/reduce water loss.- Provide oily film to protect the skin.- Keep the skin soft, smooth but not greasy.Type:a) Liquid cream:-consistency is of liquid natureb) Solid creams:- Consistency is higherc) Nonaqueous type:-Not containing any aqueous medium.A typical formulationa.) Isopropyl myristate - 4 gmMineral oil -- 2 gmStearic acid – 3.gmEmulsifying wax - .275 gmLanolin - 2.5 gmb.) Glycerin -3.0 gmTriethanolamine – 1 gmWater -84.225 gmPerfume and Preservative -q.s(F) ALL PURPOSE CREAMS:All purpose means it is suitable for hands, face and body. They are w/o types.Formula:- Oil phaseWater phaseMineral oil 18%Water 61.3%Lanolin2%Glycerol 5%Petroleum jelly 2%Magnesium sulphate 0.2%Ozokerite 7 %Perfume, preservative q.sParaffin wax 3%2) LOTIONS:(I) Cleansing lotionA typical formulationMineral oil 38%,Bees wax 2%,Triethanolamine stearate 8%,Water to make 100%Preservative & Perfumes –q.sPHARMAQUEST

Note: - Triethanolamine discolors on standing so it should be made in situ using calculatedamount of stearic acid and Triethanolamine. O/W lotion have tendency to increase in viscositywith ageing (this is prevented by using ethoxylated cholesterol)(II) Sunscreen lotions:These lotions have property of protecting the skin from sun burning.An ideal sunscreen agent should have following properties. Absorb light over the range of 200-400 nm. Be stable to heat, light & perspiration Be nontoxic & nonirritant Not be rapidly absorbed Be neutral Be readily soluble in suitable vehicles.US dept of health has recommended following ingredients to be used as sunscreenagents. They absorb U.V radiation. CYCLOFORM MONOGLYCERYL PARA AMINO BENZOATE DIGALLOYL TRIOLEATE BENZYL SALICYLATE BENZYL CINNAMATEAnd few others are PABA, cinnamic acid derivatives, coumarin derivatives, Quinine salts,uric acid derivatives.A typical formulationGlyceryl p-amino benzoate 3.0 %Glycerin5.0 %Alcohol10 %Methyl cellulose0.5 %Perfumeq.sWater to make 100 %3. POWDERS:These are categorized as face powder, body powder, and Compacts.The powders should have following properties: Must have good covering power so can hide skin blemishes. Should adhere perfectly to the skin & not blow off easily. Must have absorbent property. Must have sufficient slip to enable the powder to spread on the skin by the puff . The finish given to the skin must be preferably of a matt or peach like character.The raw materials used to manufacture of various powders are classified with example asfollows:RAW MATERIAL FOR POWDEREXAMPLEIMPARTINGCovering propTitanium dioxide,zno,kaolin,zn stearateAdhesion propMg.stearate,talc,mg & ca salt of myristic acidPHARMAQUEST

Slip & SoftnessZn/mg undecanate,aluminium hydrosilicateAbsorbency propStarch, colloidal kaolin,bentonite,pptd chalkPeach like finishRice starch,silica,powdered silkFrosted lookGuanine, bismuth oxychloride,mica,Zn,AlColor & perfumesIron oxidesFACE POWDER:Types of Face Powders:A.B.C.D.Loose face powderCompact face powderTalcum powderBaby powderA) LOOSE FACE POWDER :The essential feature of a good face powder includes Covering power, slip, Adhesiveness,Absorbency, Bloom, Coloring, Perfuming.Type:b) Light typec) Medium typed) Heavy typeType of face powderpurpose & compositionLIGHTDry skin, contains large amount of talcMEDIUMNormal or moderately oily skins, lesser talc & zinc oxideHEAVYExtremely oily skins ,low talc but higher amount of Zinc oxideTYPICAL FORMULATION OF FACE POWDERS:-LIGHT POWDERMEDIUM POWDERHEAVY POWDERTalc mKaolin --------20 gmKaolin-------39.5 gmKaolin(light)-20 0gmCal. carbonate(l) 5 gmCal. carbonate(l) 5 gm. Cal. carbonate(l) 39 gZinc oxide ---5.0gmZinc oxide ---7.0gmZinc oxide ---15.0gmZinc stearate-5.0gmZinc 0gmMg.carbonate—1.0gmPHARMAQUESTColor------0.5gm

Perfume------0.5gmPerfume------0.6gmB) COMPACT FACE POWDER:It is a dry powder which has been compressed into a cake. The pressure for compaction isvery important. The powder must come off easily when rubbed with puff.Type of binderExamples1) Dry binderZn/Mg.stearate2) Oil binder (water repellant )Mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, Lanolin derivative3) Water soluble binderPVP, CMC, Cellulose, Acacia, Tragacanth5) Emulsion binderTriethanolamine stearate, Glycerol monostearate(C) TALCUM POWDER:- It is used as an adsorbent for making the skin from the excessmoisture. Light magnesium carbonate added to mix perfume.Formula:- Zinc oxide . . 50Zinc stearate 50Chlorhexidine diacetate 3Light magnesium carbonate.100Talc .797Perfume .0.2D) BODY POWDER:It consists of mainly talc, with small portion of a metallic stearate, precipitated chalk,magnesium carbonate(light). Talcum/body powders containing antiseptic substances are alsoused for prickly heat, and fungus infections. Boric acid act as antiseptic.A typical formulationTalc - 75 gmAluminum stearate – 4 gmColloidal Kaolin –10 gmBoric acid – 0.3 gmColloidal silica--- 5 gmPerfume --- 0.7 gmMagnesium Carbonate- 5 gm3. SKIN COLORANTS:It includes a) Lipsticksb) Rougea) LIPSTICK:-These are basically dispersions of coloring matter in a base consisting of asuitable blend of oils, fats, and waxes suitably perfumed and flavored molded in the form of astick.Ideal character of lipstick includes: Should cover the lips adequately with some gloss and last for long time. It should make the lips soft. The film must adhere firmly to the lips without being brittle.& tachy.PHARMAQUEST

Should have high retention of color intensity without any change in shade.Should be completely free from grittiness & free from drying.Nonirritating to the lips.Desirable degree of plasticity & have a pleasant odor and flavor. Classification of raw materials:1) Wax mixtures (bees, candeilla, carnauba, ceresin, Ozokerite wax)2) Oil mixtures (castor, paraffin, THFA, isopropyl myristate)3) Bromo mixture4) Colors5) PreservativesTypes of lipsticks1) Transparent lipstick2) Liquid lipstick3) Lip rouge4) Lip jelly5) Lip salve6) Lip glossesA typical formulation of lipstick.Castor oilLanolin (anhydrous)54 gm11 gmCandeilla waxIsopropyl myristateWhite beeswaxCarnauba wax9 gm8 gm5 gm3 gmOzokerite waxEosinLakesRose flavor3 gm2 gm5 gmq.sAntioxidantPreservativeq.sq.sb) SKIN ROUGE: - These are the cosmetics preparations used to apply a color to the cheeks.The color may vary from the palest of pinks to the deep blue reds .The tint or color may beachieved using water insoluble colors such as iron oxides and certain organic pigments or byusing water soluble organic colors which actually stain the skin.Types : Powder rouges Wax based rouges (Stick rouge) Emulsion cream rouges Liquid rouges Powder RougesTalc .40Zinc oxide .10Stick rougeCarnauba wax 3Candelilla 6PHARMAQUEST

Magnesium carbonate .20Pigment .14Lanolin .30Perfume .2Ozokerite 1.5Bees wax 1.5Hexadecyl stearate 10Isopropyl myristate .8Castor oil .65BHA .0.02Color 5Emulsion cream rouge (vanishing type)Stearic acid .15Potassium hydroxide .0.5Sod. Hydroxide .0.18Glycerin .8Water .76Pigment, Perfume &Preserative q.sLiquid rouge(A) Iso stearic acid .0.02Mineral oil .30Iso propyl myristate .5Colloidal silica .1Color .3(B) Water .48.3Triethanolamine 4Perfume .0.2(4) ANTIPERSPIRANTS & DEODORANTS:Anti perspirants:- Aluminium chlorhydrate used which has antibacterial and astringentaction. Aluminium chloride and Zirconium compounds are also used as antiperspirants.Deodorants:--11 ( Hexachlorophene)- TMTD (Tetra methyl triuram disulphide)- Bithionol- Bromosalicylanilide- Diaphene- Neomycin ( Antibiotic)- Ion-exchange resin used like Amberlite- Metal chelates like 1,3 Diketones used which chelate copper,aluminium, Mg compounds. COSMETICS FOR HAIR:Includes following type of preparations:1. Shampoo2. Hair tonics & Conditioners3. Hair colorants and hair color remover4. Hair grooming preparations5. Depilatory & Epilatory6. Shaving soaps & creams7. Hair wave sets & lacquers ,rinses1. SHAMPOOIdeal characters of a shampoo: Should effectively and completely remove the dust, excessive sebum. Should effectively wash hair.PHARMAQUEST

Should produce a good amount of foamThe shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.Should leave the hair non dry ,soft, lustrous with good, manageability.Should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair,.Should not make the hand rough and chapped.Should not have any side effects or cause irritation to skin or eye.Composition of shampoo:1) Principal surfactant (anionic type)Non ionic surfactant has sufficient cleansing property but have lowfoaming power. Cationic are toxic. So anionic are preferred.2) Secondary surfactant (anionic or ampholytic detergent)They modify detergent and surfactant properties of principal surfactant.3) Antidandruff agents (selenium, cadmium sulfide, ZPTO)4) Conditioning agent (lanolin, oil, herbal

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF VARIOUS COSMETIC AND DENTAL PRODUCT 1) DEFINITION:- . It is the main ingredient of cosmetics formulation. Thus stability and quality of final product is dependent on the purity of water used so pure water should be used in manufacturing of cosmetics. Pure water on large scale can be manufactured by any of the methods mentioned below. Ion exchange system .

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