S EWINGF OCUS - SCHMETZ

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SEWING FOCUSTECHNICAL SEWING INFORMATIONSafety andCargo BeltsChecklist for Sewing Safety and Cargo BeltsSewing Parameters:SCHMETZ Tip:Needle sizeNMSIZE110 – 28018 – 28Depending on the thickness of the thread and the materialto be sewn also in SERV 7 version.Needle pointOnly round points are used in belt manufacturing.Sewing threadAlmost exclusive use is made of 100 % polyester continuous multi filament thread.Seldom 100 % polyamide thread is used.MachineHeavy duty industrial sewing machines, bar tack- and short seam automaticmachinery as well as programmable large sewing field machines (multi directional)are used.Other factors:Thread tensionThe necessary thread tension depends on the fabric, the sewing thread and thesewing machine. The thread tension should be as low as possible to allow anoptimal stitch formation.Stitch typeDouble lockstitch (stitch type 301) according to DIN 61400.Stitch densityThe higher the stitch density, the greater the seam strength.About 2 – 4 stitches/cm.

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONQuick Reference for Typical Sewing Problemsin Safety and Cargo Belt ManufacturingSymptomsEffectCauseThread breakage after skip stitch“Tipping over” of the needle thread loopSub-standard, defective seam appearanceArching up of the material due to insufficientpresser foot pressureSkip stitches/Thread breakageNo interlacing/interlooping of needle threadand bobbin/looper threadNeedle thread breaksReduced seam strengthIncorrect thread tensionRavelling of the needle threadIncorrect needle systemNeedle incorrectly fittedJamming of the sewing thread betweenneedle and fabricAdhesion of melted residues, clogging ofthe needle eye and needle grooveNeedle breakageBroken needle parts remain in fabricUse of an undersized needleMaterial is damagedNeedle deflection too heavyNeedle size and material thickness arenot adjusted to each otherDamaged point, resulting in excessivepenetration force2

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONSolutionNM SIZEPoint styleThreadMachineUse the SCHMETZ SERV 7 needleCheck point for damageUse a bonded sewing threadOptimize the hook/looper settingAdjust needle size to the materialand amount of layersSelect a well finished sewingthreadUse the right presser foot and theright adjustment of the presserfoot pressureCheck needle eye and groove fordamage, if in doubt: change needleAdjust sewing thread size tothe needle sizeOptimize thread tensionCheck throat plate for damageAdjust the sewing accessories,such as throat plate, feed etc.depending on material thicknessand sewing thread/needleExamine the thread guidingelementsUse the SCHMETZ SERV 7 needleAdjust needle size to the materialand amount of layersCAUTION: After every change ofshifts or in short intervals according to the needle stress we recommend to change the needleCheck and adjust the materialtransportCAUTION: After a needle breakageit is necessary to check the throatplate for damage3

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONQuick Reference for Typical Sewing Problemsin Safety and Cargo Belt ManufacturingSymptomsEffectCausePulled out weft and warp threadsReduced tensile strength of the materialNeedle size too big and/or wrong point styleMaterial damageSub-standard, defective seam appearanceWrong sized aperture of the throat plateReduced seam strengthDefective/worn out needlesMaterial damageDamaged sewing accessories, such as throatplate, feed etc.Thermal damageIndividual layers of material are stickingtogetherExcessive needle temperature due to frictionespecially when sewing densely wovenfabricsMelted particles cling to the fabricExcessive sewing speedNeedle thread breaksNeedle eye is cloggedNeedle groove is clogged4Needle smeared or needle eye clogged withmelted residueMelting of the thread surface and as a resultmechanical breakage of the weakenedthread

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONSolutionNM SIZEPoint styleUse the SCHMETZ SERV 7 needleRNormal round pointCheck and adjust the materialtransportSESLight ball pointAdjust the sewing accessories,such as throat plate, feed etc.depending on material thicknessand sewing thread/needleAdjust needle size to the materialand amount of layersThreadCAUTION: After every change ofshifts or in short intervals according to the needle stress we recommend to change the needleBLUKOLD needle with Tefloncoating. This needle coatingprevents or greatly reduces theadhesion of melted residuesCAUTION: The use of theBLUKOLD needle does not reducethe needle temperature which iscaused by excessive sewingspeedsRNormal round pointSelect a well finished sewingthreadSESLight ball pointAlternatively use an extra threadlubricant (exp. silicone oil)MachineReduce sewing speedUse needle cooling through compressed airare available in BLUKOLD5

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONSelection of Point Style and Needle SizeMaterialNumberof layersSeat belts2Needle sizeNM / SIZE120 – 250 / 19 – 27Point styleR normal round pointSafety beltsSES light ball pointSeat belts for children2110 – 180 / 18 – 24R normal round pointSES light ball pointLight belt webbing2, 3130 – 200 / 21 – 25R normal round pointMedium weight belt webbing2, 3180 – 230 / 24 – 26R normal round pointfor cargo belts4230 – 250 / 26 – 27Heavy belt webbingfor cargo belts and web slings2, 34230 – 250 / 26 – 27250 –280 / 27 – 28Light tie-downsR Normale RundspitzeSES light ball pointGeneral recommendation for sizes up to NM/SIZE 140/22:Use of the SERV 7 needle version with the appropriate point style6

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWING1.INFORMATIONSafety and cargo belt manufactureContentsDuring the production of safety and cargo belts safetyaspects like tensile strength, shear and abrasion resistance,colour-fastness and reduced elongation of the textile webbing are the main objectives.1.Textile safety and cargo belts have to be produced according to DIN standards in Germany:Safety and cargo belt manufacture1.1 Typical sewing problemsDIN EN 12195-21.2 Quality seams with the right sewing parametersDIN EN 1492-12.DIN EN 1492-2Selection of the right needleCargo belts consisting ofman made fibresFlatly woven cargo beltsconsisting of man made fibresWeb slings consisting of man madefibres for general purposes2.1 Needle size2.2 Point style2.3 SERV 7 needle construction2.4 Changing of the needle3.Selection of sewing threads and stitch parameters3.1 Composition and size of the sewing thread3.2 Stitch typeCargo belts enable careful lifting especially of cargo with asensitive surface. The flexible textile belts are able to adjustthemselves optimal to the contours of the load. Their broadcontact surfaces distribute the pressure over a larger areaof the cargo surface. Additionally textile cargo belts have alower weight in comparison to chains and steel ropes withsimilar carrying loads. Textile belts are produced in different belt widths (standardized 25 to 450 mm) and carryingloads (up to 10,000 kg and more). They are colour codedaccording to Euro standard for easier identification of themaximum carrying load. For example: red coloured beltscan take a direct load of up to 5,000 kg.3.3 Stitch density3.4 Thread tension4.Sewing machines for safety andcargo belt manufacturing4.1 Feed4.2 Throat plate/Throat plate aperture size4.3 Sewing speed5.Our advice6.SERVICEHOUSE –An overview of our servicesoColour codeaccording to Euro-NormCarrying load (kg)“direct” range5001 0002 0003 0004 0005 0006 0008 00010 000over 10 0007

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONWeb sling acc. to DIN EN 1492-2Cargo belt acc. to DIN EN 1492-1Tie-down acc. to DIN EN 12195-2Also in manufacturing of personal safety equipment theemphasis is set on safety technical aspects.Source: SpanSet GmbH & Co. KG1.1 Typical sewing problemsSource: SpanSet GmbH & Co. KGThe textile webbings for safety and cargo belts are made ofhigh strength multifilament yarns. Due to its physical andchemical characteristics polyester (PES) is mainly used.Polyamide (PA) und Polypropylene (PP) only play a minorrole as relevant textile materials. The materials used for theproduction of belts have different resistances towards chemicals. Polyamide for example is resistant against alkalinebut sensitive to mineral acids. Polyester is resistant againstmineral acids but destroyed by bases. Polypropylene is only slightly sensitive to acids or bases. For this reason it ishighly suited for usages where the resistance to chemicals(with the exception of some organic solvents) is of great importance.Seat belts just like personal safety equipment are safetytechnical elements with the emphasis on their functionaland ergonomical aspects.8Automated sewing machines for multi directional sewingare often used in safety and cargo belt manufacturing.Additionally normal, heavy duty sewing machines are alsoused. Here the seam pattern is achieved by sewing forwards and backwards. A correct seam appearance is onlypossible when sewing forwards: The sewing thread isslightly twisted and closed (or: twisted together) by thehook during the stitch formation which has a positive effecton the seam strength and seam appearance.The Z-twist construction of the thread is self-adjusting tothe rotating direction of the hook of the double lockstitchsewing machine during the forward sewing operation. As aresult the thread is turned around its own axis into thetwisting direction during its passage through the needleand its path around the hook.When sewing backwards the thread is slightly openedagainst its twisting direction influencing the seam strengthand seam appearance in a negative way. For this reasonbonded threads should be used for this kind of sewing operation.Depending on the stitching direction during multi directional sewing the needle thread loop can “tip over” causingthread breakage or thread ravelling.

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONPic. 1: Safety and cargo belts for minor loads are sewn on short seamautomates.Pic. 2: The seam pattern in this picture is called “house” or “box-x”.One of the problems occurring most often is the heavybuilding-up of needle heat caused by the friction duringneedle penetration through the webbing, especially whenworking with big needle sizes and densely woven fabrics.Thread breakage by melting may occur as a result. Well finished sewing threads can help to minimize this problem.Belts used for heavy loads are mostly sewn by a seam pattern which uses the whole width of the belt. The seamruns across the whole belt from one edge to theother and backwards in a slight angle (see illustration). Through this construction the forcesare spread evenly and the highest possibleseam strength is reached. According toDIN EN 1492-1 the following is to beobserved during the manufacturingof cargo belts: The stitches mustnot reach the edges of the belt oraffect them in any way; exceptionsare the stitches which are needed for the sling reinforcement.Slings have to be reinforced for protection of their insideagainst damage during lifting as well as in the tie up point forthe tying process. Reinforcing materials are for example atube or a piece of belt webbing, leather or other similarlasting materials.Typical sewing problems occurring during safety and cargobelt manufacturing are: Thermal damage Skip stitches / Thread breakage Needle breakage1.2 Quality seams with the rightsewing parametersDuring the production of safety and cargo belts higheststandards are set for the properties of the seams with regard to safety and strength. This demands an exact adaptation of all sewing parameters like machine, sewing speed,needle and sewing thread. The elastic properties of the beltwebbing and the sewing thread have to be adjusted to eachother in the best possible way.Safety and cargo belts for minor loads are sewn by a shortseam automate. Here different seam patterns can beachieved on a sewing field with a size up to 100 x 80 mm2(see pic. 1). In picture 2 a rectangle is sewn with two diagonal seams. This seam pattern which is made on automatesfrom the company Dürkopp-Adler is called “house” sewingor “box-X”.Source: Dürkopp-Adler AGDuring the straining of a belt the fabric yarns situated in themiddle of the belt take the highest strains. For this reason thebeginning and the end of the seam must be at the edge of thebelt to prevent the seam from opening.Modern sewing automates are equipped with a thread burning device. The thread is welded at the end of the seam toprevent the seam from opening. This makes bar tacking atthe beginning and the end of a seam unnecessary.The amount of stitches/cm is dependant on the load capacity of the belt. Remember: The higher the load capacity thehigher the amount of stitches/cm.9

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGNeedle2. Selection of the right needleThe determination of the right needle size and point style forthe material to be sewn is among the most important decisions and responsibilities a quality assurance is faced with.The selection of the right needle depends on the strength ofthe sewing thread, the type of fabric, the number of layersand the material combinations. The selection of the rightneedle point depends on the material to be sewn.2.1 Needle sizeThe selection of the right needle size is dependant on the sewing thread in order to reach the seam strength for the load capacity of the belt.INFORMATIONcome is dependant on the textile fabric, the number of layers,the thickness and the finishing of the fabric.Round points are mainly used in the manufacturing of safetyand cargo belts. As an exception other point styles may beused depending on the properties and characteristics of thematerial to be sewn and the manufacturing technique.The normal round point “R” is the standard point style andhas a pointed conical form. The point supplement “R” is notalways used. The normal round point “R” pierces the weaveyarns. By this a very straight seam is achieved.In comparison to the normal round point “R” the light ballpoint “SES” has a small hemisphere at its point preventingfrom piercing of the weave yarns. By this a damage free displacement of the weave yarns is possible.RThe size of the needle eye is usually about 40% of the needlesize. The size of the needle eye and the size of the sewingthread have to be adjusted to each other exactly so that it ispossible for the thread to pass the needle eye with the lowestpossible friction. This becomes logical when you take into account that one single part of a top thread passes 25 – 60 timesthrough a needle eye when using a double lockstitch before astitch is formed together with the bobbin thread. During thisprocess the thread experiences a lot of strain and can lose upto 10 % of its strength.The needle expands the fabric threads during penetration. Ifthe physical tolerance limits are exceeded in respect to theelongation of the fabric threads, material damage will be theresult. The threads of the fabric will “burst”, i.e. be damaged.The threads of the fabric can also be shifted strongly. This results in a decrease of the tensile strength of the belt.An overview of the suggested needle sizes can be found in thetable on page 6.2.2 Point styleThe textile structure of belts call for needles which can passthrough material layers easily with little exertion of force andwithout deflection of the needle, regardless of their density,thickness and firmness.The penetration resistance which the needle has to over-10normal round pointSES light ball pointFor the sewing of leather/textile combinations a normalround point (with or without point supplement “R”) is used inorder to prevent fabric damage. The use of a needle with acutting edge – typical for sewing leather – would damage thefabric with its cutting properties. This is inadmissible in thebelt production.Generally the intactness of the needle point is of high importance. Needles with minor damage to their tip can cause moredamage than choosing the wrong needle size or the wrongpoint style.

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATION2.3 SERV 7 needle construction2.4 Changing of the needleSERV 7 is a special needle to prevent skip stitches and needlebreakages. This needle type comes in various point stylesfor the particular requirements of different materials. Thedistinctive features of SERV 7 needles are their speciallyshaped hump scarf and their extra blade reinforcement. Thehump scarf extends the loop so that the hook or looper cancatch it easily. This greatly reduces skip stitches.The SERV 7 blade reinforcement makes the needle especially stable and far less likely to “bend”. Needle breakages arethus minimized and the centric penetration produces a better seam appearance. The low deflection of the needle alsoprevents skip stitches.The regular changing of the needle should be a stated requirement in the performance specification of every qualitycontrol system. The different sewing processes dependingon the number of fabric layers, material thickness and combinations require a change of the needle at the beginning ofevery shift or – under particularly high needle stress – everytwo hours.When sewing fabrics made out of synthetic fibres the needleis worn out faster than when sewing fabrics made out ofnatural fibres. A worn out needle can pull fabric threads orfilaments. As a consequence the seam is influenced negatively.SCHMETZ Tip:SCHMETZ SERV 7SCHMETZ 100/16SCHMETZ 100/16Benefit 2: SERV 7 needle has higher stabilityincreasing needle life.SERV 71.0StandardN1.0NSCHMETZ Tip:Benefit 1: SERV 7 hump scarf produces optimumloop formation and prevents skip stitches.The special stability of the SERV 7 needle is particularly valuable for sewing thick and dense fabrics, multiple layers offabric and when using synthetic sewing threads with strongelongation.11

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONSewing threadduction and later during inspections while in use it is possible that the sewing threads have a different colour than thebelt.3. Selection of sewing threads andstitch parametersThe definition of multiple sewing threads is specified as:Nm 10/3. That means: The thread consists of 3 singlestrands of Nm 10.To the quality assurance the requirement for the resistanceto stress and the safety of the seams are of equal importance as the requirement for straight and damage-freeseam results.Information on sewing thread innovations specifically forthis area of application can be obtained from your sewingthread manufacturer.The material and the quality of the sewing thread determine the final seam quality substantially.In the belt manufacturing continuous multifilament sewingthread made out of 100 % polyester, seldom 100 % polyamide is used exclusively. Additionally sewing threads madeout of polyester and polyamide in this special field of application have to have a high tensile strength, high abrasionresistance (against abrasion coming from outside and forlasting seam quality), high thermal resistance, optimal slippage properties and complete evenness. It is only possibleto create a permanent and safety relevant seam under theseconditions.In order to achieve a sufficient seam strength the samethread sizes have to be used for the top and bottom thread.This ensures that the strain on the seam is distributed evenly.3.2 Stitch typeThe use of the double lockstitch is determined by standardization for the manufacturing of safety and cargo belts.When using the double chain stitch there is an increaseddanger that the seam will open at its beginning or end dueto damaged stitches. As the surface of a belt has to have ahigh abrasion resistance the use of the double chain stitchis not advisable as the stitch formation of needle and looper thread takes place on the surface of the fabric.Stitch type 301 – double lockstitch13.1. Composition and size of thesewing threadIn the belt manufacturing all seams have to be made out ofa sewing thread consisting of the same material as the belt.In order to make the control of the seams easier during pro-aContinuous filamentThread Type PolyesterThread 928476685650Needle SizePolyamideThread SizeNeedle 23-2411tex** No label number130-16021-23120-14019-2213152030* tex Definition of size 1 g / 1,000 m (e. g. 200 tex 1,000 m140-160120-14022-2319-22of thread weigh 200 g)Nm (for thread) Numbering of length 1 m / 100 g(e. g. Nm 8 8 m of thread weigh 100 g)12

Sewing FocusTECHNICALIn the stitch type double lockstitch the intersection of theneedle and bobbin thread is in the centre of the fabric to besewn. This creates an even seam appearance and gives thehint that a proportionate amount of thread is used for theneedle and bobbin thread.In an optimal stitch formation the strain on the seam is distributed evenly on the top and bottom thread. This resultsin maximal seam elasticity and tensile strength.SEWINGINFORMATIONMachine4. Sewing machines for safety and cargobelt manufacturingHeavy 1-needle-double lockstitch machines with special feedsand additional accessories for the specific sewing operationsare most often used in belt manufacturing.3.3 Stitch densityA cargo or safety belt has to stand the highest strains in itslength direction. For this reason the seams have to have ahigh length elongation and stability which also depends onthe stitch density and machine adjustment.As a general rule: The higher the stitch density (stitches/cm)the higher the seam strength. One needs to consider: Dueto the use of big needle sizes and heavy yarn sizes the stitchdensity should not remain under 2 – 4 stitches/cm. A toohigh stitch density can cause perforation or pulled fabricthreads. Highly deflected warp threads of the belt result inthe loss of strength of the belt.The amount of stitches/cm is dependant on the strength ofthe belt. As a rule: The higher the strength of the belt, thehigher the amount of stitches/cm.3.4 Thread tensionThe necessary thread tension depends on the material, thesewing thread and the sewing machine. Sufficient threadreserve in the seam dealing with high and extreme stressesis an important criteria for the desired seam elasticity andseam tensile strength.A sewing thread is expected to exhibit a certain amount ofelongation or inherent elasticity. The amount of retractionfollowing elongation must not be too high or it will influencethe seam quality in a negative way. Hence the thread tension should be set as low as possible, but with consideration so that the seam does not drift apart.Flatbed Sewing MachineClosing and attaching seamson heavy cargo beltsClosing seams on cargo beltsLong-Arm Sewing Machine Closing and attaching seamsHeavy and three dimensionalcargo beltsFree-Arm Sewing Machine Closing and attaching seamsHeavy and three dimensionalcargo beltsAttaching of belt partsShort Seam Automate(without illustration)Closing seams on seat beltsand cargo belts for lowstressesProgrammable LargeSewing Field AutomateAttaching seams on beltsystems(without illustration)13

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWING4.1 FeedTo ensure uniform material feed there are various forms ofmachine accessories and feeds.For example:Bottom feed and differential alternatingpresser foot top feedFor smooth sewing of heavy materialswith uniformly long stitchesCompound feed with alternating presserfoot top feedFor sewing heavy or feed-critical materials with uniformly long stitchesAutomatic clamp feedFor smooth sewing without displacementaccording to the predetermined sewingpatternINFORMATIONDue to the strong needle sizes and the extreme density ofthe material to be sewn a high amount of friction occurs between the needle and the material. If the sewing speeds areexceeded thermal damage like needle smearing and/orthread breakage through melting occurs. In such cases it isnecessary to reduce the sewing speed due to the physicalproperties of the material. Even the cooling of the needle byair or the use of silicon oil as a thread lubricant will not result in the reduction of the needle temperature in such asituation.5. Our adviceYou can achieve damage-free quality seams if all the sewing parameters are precisely coordinated with one another.Material, needle, thread and machine are the key variables.The SCHMETZ SERVICEHOUSE offers various service packages:From recommending the ideal needle for your fabrics tosending out sample needles and providing assistance withspecial sewing requirements. In addition the SCHMETZSERVICEHOUSE offers competent on-site advice on yourproduction line and training courses for your employees.4.2 Throat plate/Throat plate aperture sizeIt should be taken care that the size of the throat plate aperture is adjusted to the chosen needle size. If thicker needlesare changed for thinner ones (also from thin needles tothick ones) the size of the throat plate aperture should alsobe changed.The diameter of the throat plate aperture should not belarger than the factor 1.2 to 1.4 than the needle size.4.3 Sewing speedAs a rule, high sewing speeds are not used in the safety andcargo belt production. Usually up to 2,500 stitches/minwith needle cooling and up to 1,000 stitches/min withoutneedle cooling are reached. In general the sewing speeddepends on the thickness and the structure of the fabric tobe sewn. At most sewing machines or automates it is possible to adjust the sewing speed according to the demands.High sewing speeds with a low number of stitches in theseam do not usually give any economical advantage.14Challenge us –let us show you our competence!

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATION15

Sewing FocusTECHNICALSEWINGINFORMATIONForm to copy and fax: 49 (0) 24 06 / 85 -186Company nameAttentionPositionDo you have further questions about sewing belts?Would you like support in solving your individual sewingproblem?Would you like recommendations on needle selection andsewability of your fabrics in advance of production?Challenge the SERVICEHOUSE experts and take advantageof our offer.We will be pleased to send you information on:Our range of ONSULTINGINFORMATIONSAMPLE NEEDLESSample needles, tips and informationSEWING FOCUSSewing information for special industries andapplicationsDOCUMENTED SEWING REPORTSSewing reports tailored to match your sewing goodsas well as solutions for your complex sewing demandsEXPRESS CONSULTINGExpress consulting by phone, fax or e-mailPRODUCT FOCUSProduct information for special industries andapplicationsGUIDE TO SEWING TECHNIQUESManual for sewing industryTRAINING-ON-SITEIndustry specific training including the latest informationon needles, threads, machines and applicationsSYMPOSIUMInterdisciplinary knowledge sharing and exchange ofexpertise for skilled sewing industry staffFERD. SCHMETZ GmbH SERVICEHOUSEBicherouxstraße 53-59, 52134 Herzogenrath, GermanyPhone 49 (0)2406 / 85-185, Fax 49 (0)2406 / 85-186Internet http://www.schmetz.com, E-Mail: servicehouse@schmetz.com Schmetz · Subject to technical modification · DW 3075-34, 12/05 – GBTRAINING/SYMPOSIUM

the rotating direction of the hook of the double lockstitch sewing machine during the forward sewing operation. As a result the thread is turned around its own axis into the twisting direction during its passage through the

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