Greene & Greene: A Mystery Table
Greene & Greene:A Mystery Tableb y Da r r e l l P e a r tWhile conductingresearch for a book,the author encountersa previously unknowntable from the workshopof Peter & John Hall.1 Popular Woodworking November 2007Editor’s Note: The following material is supplemental to the information published in the November 2007 iss ue of Popular Woodworking, byDarrell Peart. The printed issue is available at popularwoodworking.com/Nov07. Additional pictures of the original table are also available on the web site.Photos by the author; illustrations by Mary jane favorite
Templates for floating tenonsYou will need to produce two routing templates for the legs and three routing templatesfor the rails and stretchers, as seen in the photoat right. Because these are for a one-time use,they can easily be made using MDF or scrapmaterial from around the shop. Detailed drawings and information for building two of thetemplates is given below right. Draw fromthat information and the project drawingsto construct the remaining templates. Whenmaking the other templates keep in mindthat you will be using a 3 8"-diameter bit anda 3 4"-diameter template guide.The “platform” of the templates will bemade from three rippings of 3 4" MDF– two outside rippings 25 8" wide anda center ripping 3 4" wide. The center3 4"ripping establishes a space betweenthe two outside pieces for the 3 4" templateguide to run in.Cut enough MDF rippings to produce thefive templates needed. Be careful when sizingthe 3 4" center piece – ideally it should justenough oversize (.005") to allow the templateguide to move freely without slop. Dry-fit theplatform pieces first and test a 3 4" templateguide for ease of movement.Assemble the template platforms byarranging lengths of the 3 4" MDF betweenthe 25 8" pieces to produce the needed template guide openings. Attach the undersidereference pieces with glue and a nail gun. (I amloath to use a nail gun on furniture itself butwhen making disposable jigs and templatesthey are great time savers).Referring again to the drawing, and usinga sharp pencil, layout all the mortises on thelegs, rails and aprons. It is wise to add about1 32"-1 16" (depending upon your level of confidence) length to the leg mortises. This willgive you some maneuverability later on duringthe assembly process.Milling Spline StockMachine all the (working) spline materialfor the project at one time. Both the shelf andtop splines are 1 4" thick. The shelf spline is27 32" wide and the spline for the top is 31 32"wide. The long grain goes with the widthof the spline. Using your planer, run downenough material to the needed thickness– checking the actual spline groove for finaldimension.Be sure to check the spline thickness withan end that does not have planer snipe. Also,unless your planer is precisely set, the finalTemplates for Tenons. MDF is used to make the templates for the loose tenons and splines. Therouter is fitted with a 3 4" guide collar and a 3 8"-diameter straight bit. Dry fit the template piecesbefore gluing to ensure that the collar will move easily in the opening.25 825 83 433 1613 163 4151 451 2313 1675 821 163366Jig for mortises inends of shelf & panelsPlan view –Jig for mortises in Legs25/83/425/83/415/1611/29/16elevation –Jig for mortises in LegsRouting results. Each leg has short mortises forrails and long mortises for panels. Mark the legs ontop with their orientation in the table.popularwoodworking.com 2
In position and in line. After locating the plug holes and drilling with an undersized brad point bit, asmall square is used to position the hollow mortiser chisel. The points of the chisel will mark the spot.One of the best and least complicated methods to produce the holes is by hand with thechisel from a hollow-chisel mortiser. To startthe process, first mark all the locations of theholes (all four legs and the two shelf rails) withcross hairs. Drill each hole to a depth of 3 8"with a brad-point bit 1 32" less than the finished size of the plug. In other words, if youare working a 1 4" plug hole, drill the centerout with a 7 32" bit.Use a square to aid in positioning the hollow chisel squarely over the round hole asseen in the picture at left. Once it’s positionedcorrectly, push the four points of the hollowchisel into the wood just enough so as to leave“re-positioning points.” Now with hammer inhand, re-position the chisel in the points andchop out the square corners. Clean out anyremaining debris with a normal chisel.For the shelf-rail rectangles you will needto lay out the full rectangle in place and wasteaway as much of the hole as possible withthe drill bit. Carefully line up the mortisingchisel and “chop “to establish the corners ateither end.Making and Inserting Ebony PlugsProud ebony plugs are an intrinsic part ofGreene & Greene furniture. They are simpleto produce but good results can be somewhatelusive at first. There is a tendency to makethe face of the plugs too “pillowed.” The wayI will explain here is not the most efficientmethod – but it will yield good results witha little practice.Mill out ebony stock in the form of longrods equal in thickness and width to the sizeDriving home the point. The square chisel is placed back in position and hit with a hammer. Afteryou reach the proper depth, use a small chisel to clean up the remaining waste.thickness from side to side of the spline material will not be the same. To compensate forthis: As you send the board through the planer,mark a point on the in-feed side of the planer.Note this spot in reference to the board on thefinal pass. Run the board one more time butturn the board so that the reference lines lineup but the edges have switched sides.This should produce a spline that is very3 Popular Woodworking November 2007consistent in thickness. Crosscut the boardto the width to produce the needed quantityof spines.Ebony Plug HolesThe ebony plug holes must be square, crispand within close tolerance of size. Any tearout or crushed wood around the perimeter ofthe hole will stand out in the finished piece.Tenon for the dust panel. A small piece of theplywood used for the dust panel is used as aloose tenon to hold the frame together.
of the plug holes. But instead of milling therods to exact size, make them about .010".015" oversize (about 1 64") (the idea being thatthe harder and larger ebony plug will force itsshape on the softer mahogany hole and leavea very crisp and well defined inlay).With the rods milled, square up the ends.Find a soft, spongy surface such as foambacked sandpaper. Place #120 grit sandpaper on top of the spongy surface and using acircular motion, swirl the end of rod on thesandpaper until you have a slightly pillowedface with even shoulders. Again do not “overpillow” – less is more in this instance.Hold the rod up to the light at differentangles to check for inconsistencies in the face.Continue sanding up the grits to #400. On abuffing wheel, use white rouge to polish theface to a warm glow. Cut the polished endoff the rod leaving about 1 4" of length on theplug. Be sure the plugs are at least 1 16" less inlength than the plug holes are deep.Next, using a sharp chisel slightly backbevel the plug to aid its entry into the hole.To insert the plug use a plastic-headed malletto gently tap it in place. Do not tap the plugpast the shoulder of the pillowed face or it willlose definition. It is better to err on the sideof leaving the plug slightly high. Resist thaturge for one last tap!The Dust PanelAfter milling the dust-panel rails to size(refer to the cut list), make two passes on thetable saw to make the groove for the 1 4"-plywood panel. Commercial plywood is usuallya bit under thickness. The second pass on thesaw should be adjusted to match the thickness of your ply.Run the groove all the way through and usescrap from the 1 4"-panel material for the dustpanel’s floating tenons. The two short rails willget a groove along their ends as well – to serveas mortises for the floating tenons.This is a case where the exact position ofthe 1 4" groove does not relate to or affect anyother parts – so it is not necessary to fuss overit. Save your fussing for where it’s needed. Alsonote that since the panel is plywood, it canand should be glued in the groove all the wayaround. When the machining is complete onthe dust panel parts, glue it up.Positive Stop. The kerf made by the dado cuttersin the sled will position the workpiece and thestop accurately. After making the first cut, theboard is flipped for the second.Perfect Match. To make the matching cuts, thefinger is lined up with the kerf in the sled, and thestop is slid into position.does not have a back, but instead has two frontsand opens from either face of the table.Before milling the drawer parts, verifytheir size by measuring the openings for thedrawer fronts. There is a 1 16" reveal aroundthe drawer front so the overall size will be 1 8"smaller than the opening. I find it helpful tofirst cut a scrap piece of MDF to properly fitthe opening. Once the corrected size for thedrawer is determined, mill out the 13 16"-thickdrawer fronts and 1 2"-thick drawer sides alongwith plenty of scrap material.To machine the finger joints we will bereferencing off the middle, which means allthe parts have to be precisely the same width.If they are off the given dimension just a hair,that’s OK – as long as they are all off preciselythat same amount. The point is that all drawerparts must be consistently the same width!The fronts are called out at 7 8" over in netlength. The reason for this is it allows the same(finger) depth of the cut as used on the drawersides, but most importantly it provides extrasupport material when machining the plugholes – which are very near the edge with thegrain in the weak position.To get started on the finger joints, firstlay out out the actual (remember the extralength of the drawer fronts) location of thefinger joints.Test the fit. Scrap material identical in size to thedrawer parts is used to test the fit of the fingerjoints before milling the actual drawer parts.Delicate Operation. The fingers in the drawerfronts are left long to avoid breakage whenchopping mortises for the smallest plugs.The DrawerDrawers can be intimidating for a beginner,but they are really not that difficult if a littlecare is taken. This drawer is unusual in that itpopularwoodworking.com 4
Now, set up a table-saw sled with a dadohead and a clamped stop block to cut the 11 16"wide by 13 16" deep finger in one pass. Practice using scrap material, make the cut andcheck for accuracy. Next turn the scrap overGetting the edge. To sand and pillow the proudfingers, first mark the limits of the pillowing withsharp pencil using the scrap drawer frontResults from careful work. After beveling, test the fit before assembling the finger joined drawer.Down to the line. With #120 grit and a sandingblock, bevel the edges to the line at a 45 angle.Soft Finish. With a piece of folded #120-gritsandpaper, shape the pillow effect on the endof the fingers removing the previous bevel butnot going beyond it. Finish off the short edgeswith your thumb backing up the sandpaper. Runthrough the grits refining the pillow shape alongthe way and ending at #320 grit.5 Popular Woodworking November 2007and make the same cut only referenced fromthe opposite edge. Once the setup is correct,run the actual drawer sides.Setting up for the drawer front fingers willinvolve more trial and error and most likelyuse much more scrap material. Reset the dadohead to about 13 16" wide (or so). Use the completed drawer side to move the stop over forthe first cut in the drawer front. Referencingthe cut from both sides and using scrap material, make the cut. With the band saw, wasteout the material in between and test-fit to thedrawer side.Repeat this process until there is a successful test fit. Run three or four extra scrap pieceson this setting. They will be needed for settingup the subsequent step. Again using the completed drawer side as a guide reset the stop tocut the material in the middle away. Make thecut on scrap. This cut is like the previous cutsin that it is run twice and referenced off bothedges, although this time there will be a smallamount of material left in the middle.On the test pieces, remove the material inthe middle using the band saw – then test thecut by fitting it to the drawer front. After a successful test is made, run the drawer sides butremove the material in the middle by movingthe stop over after all the parts have been run.Lay out all the plug holes at this time.The sides can be machined as before, butbecause the fronts are smaller than any available hollow chisels, they must be drilled, thensquared up with a regular chisel. When done,trim the drawer fronts down to their final sizeso the fingers are flush with the outside faceof the drawer sides.Next, route a 1 4" x 1 4" groove on the insideof the sides and fronts referenced 1 4" from thebottom. On the fronts this can go all the waythrough but on the sides it must be stopped orelse it will pass through the front of a finger.With the joinery completed, cut out thedrawer bottom and test-fit it. If all fits well,sand all the parts to #220 grit and glue onedrawer side to a drawer front. Instead of relying completely on clamps, the top two pegholes of the drawer side fingers can be usedto screw the sides to the front (the bottom peghole is too close to the drawer groove)Clean up any excess glue with water anda series of toothbrushes ending with a cleanbrush and water that does not leave any glueresidue. Use clamps to bring the glue-up backto square if necessary. Glue the opposing sideto the front then slide the drawer bottom in
Fence matches handle. A curved piece of MDF is employed as a fence on the router table to guidethe bowed handle over the core box bit, relieving the back of the pull.place and attach the other drawer front withglue and screws.Use pieces of veneer as shims (on the bottom side) to tighten the 1 4" bottom in thegroove. Check the assembly for square andflat and adjust if necessary.Drawer Pull FabricationOne of the thrills of seeing a piece of Greene& Greene furniture in real time is discoveringthe many small details that aren’t apparent ata casual glance or in a photo.Most of these details are very subtle. If oneis missing you may sense something is notright, but probably can’t put your finger onit. A good design should present the viewerwith pleasing proportions and a strong focalpoint. An exceptional design will hold backsome of its finer details for a closer look. Thispiece whether it was designed by the Halls orthe Greenes has these subtle details. Its bowfront drawer pull is one such detail.At a casual head-on glance, the drawerpull appears to be flat, just like any other pull.But as you can see in the photo of the originalpiece, the pull is bow shaped. A pull needsenough depth so fingers can reach behind andgrip. A pull that is lower in profile may be morepleasing to the eye but not to the hand.Notch for the shelf. The router jig picturedbelow and at right is used to produce the notch.One clever solution is to make a pull that islow in profile at the ends but gradually gainsdepth towards the center. This is not merelythe answer to a form-versus-function problem. The exceptional detail also solves somecritical functional criteria as well, giving itthe best of both worlds; a form that truly follows function. And in this case the form ismore pleasing.As usual, details such as these involve morework and often a bit of head scratching. In thiscase my shop assistant, Graham Jackson, didthe head scratching for me. After machiningthe pull to its blank overall size, layout andmachine the ebony plug holes. In the center ofthe holes pre-drill for #8 wood screws.On a piece of MDF, use a bending stick tolayout the curve in the bow front. The concave side will become a router table fence andthe convex side will become the routing template for the pull itself. These parts must matetogether well. After band sawing to the line,attach sticky back #60-grit sandpaper to oneof the parts.Run the parts together to even out the mating surfaces. Change the sandpaper to theother part and again the run the mating surfaces together. This process should producetwo well mated surfaces. After routing the bowshape in the pull, set the router table up witha 3 4" diameter core box bit and the concaveportion of the MDF as a fence. Set the fenceback 3 8" from the bit. Lower the bit to takea very small cut and commence running thepulls. Raise the bit over several passes untilthe needed depth is achieved. Move the fenceback until enough material is wasted to clearthe back of the pull at its center point.Once the bow is formed run a 3 16" radiusaround the face. With #80 grit knock downthe square edge on the back side. Continuewith the sandpaper until a full radius is formedsimilar to the radius on the face side. Use aspindle sander to form the finger relief on theback sides of the ends. Before attaching thepull with four #8 X 1" wood screws make surethe pull and drawer front are fully sanded to#220 grit, giving it the best of both worlds: aform that truly follows function. PWDarrell Peart specializes in furniture in the style of Charlesand Henry Greene, and is author of “Greene & Greene:Design Elements for the Workshop” (Linden). A photogallery of his work and the book are available on his website: furnituremaker.com.From below. The slot made in the jig is used tovisually line up the jig with the router bit.One way only. The router base is trapped by thefences so that it will only move in to the leg.popularwoodworking.com 6
Greene & Greene furniture. They are simple to produce but good results can be somewhat elusive at first. There is a tendency to make the face of the plugs too “pillowed.” The way I will explain here is not the most e
Greene 2 Craig Hege AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 Cynthia Tobin AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 David Green AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 Deez Nuts AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 Derek Thomson AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 Dr. Andrea Malmont AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Greene 2 Lapinski AUDITOR (6 Yr.) 1 Gree
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Chinese furniture and the boldness of Japanese temple design, and then with a final flourish threw in a taste of the sinuous lines of Art Nouveau. The result is a style that has been revered, copied, and rediscovered, but remains uniquely Greene and Greene. If you are attempting a faithful re-production
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