Wonalancet Out Door Club Newsletter - WODC

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Wonalancet Out Door Club NewsletterDecember2020Caring for the Sandwich Range since 1892 - or soTHE PASSACONAWAY MOUNTAINCLUBinteresting is a copy of a brochure from the SwiftRiver Inn listing the trails maintained by the club.Of all the groups that have built and maintained trailsin the White Mountains over the years, few are aslittle-known as the short-lived PassaconawayMountain Club (PMC).As early as the 1860s the Albany Intervale – alsoknown in a general sense as “Passaconaway” - beganwelcoming trampers, with boarding available at thehouse of local farmer James M. Shackford. Themodest hostelry was known as “Shackford’s” and laterwas called the “Passaconaway House.” Shackfordexpanded the building as the area became morepopular with hikers,hunters and fishermen.Based at the Swift River Inn in the Albany Intervale inthe 1920s and 1930s, this group was responsible for anumber of trails that are stillin use today off the middlesection of the KancamagusHighway. Hikers headingfrom the Kanc up toHedgehog Mountain, PotashMountain,Mt.Passaconaway,Mt.Tripyramid or Owl’s Cliff/Mt. Tremont can thank thePMC trail stewards foropening or reopening routesto these scenic peaks.Regularvisitorsincluded Walter and IdaRachelJames,grandparents of BenEnglish, Jr. of Jackson,NH, who are featured inthebooksOurMountain Trips: Part I– 1899-1908 and OurMountain Trips, Part II– 1909-1926. (TheseSwift River InnAs a trail adopter on two ofbooksarehighlythe footpaths once managed by the PMC, I’ve long recommended for a fascinating look back at thebeen interested in finding out more about the club. hiker’s world of a century ago.)Even with the wonders of Google, little information isreadily available save for brief mentions in AMC In 1907 the Shackfords sold their property to AlfredWhite Mountain Guide editions of that vintage.Povall, who operated the Passaconaway House until itwas destroyed by a chimney fire in February 1916.Luckily Matt von Wahlde, who owns a cottage at thebase of Hedgehog Mountain and has extensively After the fire the farm was purchased by Rev. Arthurresearched the history of the area, was able to provide P. Hunt, a professor at the Episcopal Theologicalsome good information on the PMC. EspeciallyPage 1

Seminary in New York and a summer resident of theAlbany Intervale. In 1917 Hunt had a new hostelrybuilt and named it the Swift River Inn. Newspaper adsproclaimed it “a wonderful center for mountainclimbing.” For nearly two decades it was a popularbase for hikers climbing the surrounding peaks.It was Hunt, according to von Wahlde, who mostlikely founded the Passaconaway Mountain Club. Thiswas in the tradition of other White Mountaininnkeepers, such as Nathaniel Greeley of WatervilleValley and Kate Sleeper of Wonalancet, whodeveloped and maintained local trails for the pleasureof their guests.New trail-building activity in the Albany Intervalewas noted in the September 25, 1920 issue of theWhite Mountain Echo and Tourists’ Register, asummer newspaper serving the region’s hotels. “NEWPATHS AT PASSACONWAY” read the headline.“Trail opening has been the pleasant occupation of agroup of enthusiastic mountaineers at the Swift RiverInn at Passaconaway this summer Diverging fromthe old trail up Passaconaway slide, a new path hasbeen opened to the summit of Passaconaway,affording finer outlooks than those from the old path.”The story also reported that “an excellent trail up Mt.Potash has been made.”The budding group of trail-builders at Passaconawaywas welcomed by its trail club neighbors to the south.In the minutes from the September 1922 AnnualMeeting of WODC, Elizabeth Child wrote, “It wassuggested that the climbers at Passaconaway be askedto form an active organization to attend to the trailsand that they, Chocorua and Waterville be asked toform an organization with Wonalancet for mutual cooperation.”The Chocorua Mountain Club’s report for 1923 notedthat among the more than one hundred people whoattended the club’s annual reunion was “a substantialdelegation from the new-born PassaconawayMountain Club, in Albany Intervale, whose trailsystem approaches ours. To this club we extend ourgreetings and best wishes for its future prosperity.”These reports suggest that the PMC was formallyorganized sometime in 1922 or 1923.Apparently an early version of today’s WhiteMountain Trail Collective never coalesced, though theminutes of the 1926 WODC Annual Meetingmentioned a plan to organize a series of SandwichRange hikes for the summer of 1927, in cooperationwith CMC and PMC. And all four of the trail clubsthen working in the Sandwich Range – WODC, CMC,PMC and WAIA - were members of the umbrellaorganization known as the New England TrailConference.The Swift River Inn brochure, which presumablydates from the late 1920s or early 1930s, notes that“twenty different peaks are visible from the piazza;seven of these are near enough to climb in a singleday’s trip.” The views were wider in those days, asmuch of the land around the inn was open field. Theinn was sited at the one brushy open area that remainstoday, just east of Passaconaway Campground, alocation called “hotel field.”The brochure touts the inn’s location as “ an idealcenter for climbers and trampers, as trails radiate fromPassaconaway in every direction.” It goes on toprovide a list of suggested walks on trails maintainedby the Passaconaway Mountain Club and beginning atthe inn.Among the destinations noted are a path along theSwift River, Church Pond, Birch Hill, Sabbaday Falls,Potash Mountain, Hedgehog Mountain, Square Ledge,Owl’s Cliff, Mt. Tremont, Mt. Passaconaway and Mt.Tripyramid. As noted above, most of these routes arestill in use today.According to old Appalachian Mountain Clubguidebooks, the PMC trails to Hedgehog and Potashwere restorations of earlier paths destroyed by loggingwhen the Conway Lumber Company cut over much ofthe valley from 1906-1916.Von Wahlde pointed out a tidbit about the Hedgehogtrail that I would have passed off as a typo. Today theloop path over Hedgehog is known as the “UNHPage 2

Trails maintained by the Passaconaway Mountain Club and Beginning at Swift River InnRiver PathLedgesChurch PondBirch HillSabba Day FallsMt PotashMt Hedgehog via Una Path to SummitMt Hedgehog via Cliffs to SummitSquare LedgeOwl’s CliffMt Passaconaway via slideMt TremontMt Tri-PyramidMt Hedgehog via Una to Summit and return via CliffsSquare Ledge via Oliverian Brook retunr via Passaconaway Cut-offMt Passaconaway via Slide return via Passaconaway Cut-offTrail.” That’s because when the Swift River Inn wasclosed in the late 1930s the property was donated tothe University of New Hampshire, which used it for aforestry summer camp until the 1960s.The earlier PMC trail to Hedgehog was called the“Una Trail,” named in honor of Arthur P. Hunt’s wife.Una Hunt was a well-known author whose 1914 book,Una Mary: The Inner Life of a Child, was a groundbreaking autobiographic study of childhood.In the vicinity of Square Ledge and Mt.Passaconaway, the PMC maintained what are todayknown as the Square Ledge Branch Trail and thePassaconaway Cutoff. They also looked after the nowabandoned Downes Brook Slide Trail up the steepnorth flank of Passaconaway. On the “between thewars” WODC map (displayed in Trail Maps of theWonalancet Out Door Club: A History, 1901-1995, byJohn R. Boettiger), the Cutoff and Slide Trail areshown heading off to Albany with the initials“P.M.C.”1.5.mile1 mile1.5 miles2.5 miles2 miles2 Miles1.8 miles2.6 miles5 miles4.5 miles4 miles6 miles7 miles4.4 miles10.1 miles9.25 milesThe club also improved and maintained a trail throughthe Sabbaday Brook valley and up a slide on the eastside of Mt. Tripyramid to the ridgecrest. In the late1920s they put through the Brunel Trail to Owl’s Cliffand Mt. Tremont (“planned and blazed by the lateRoger F. Brunel”) and a side trail to the cliffs of littleBirch Hill. Birch Hill is trailless today, butbushwhackers will still find good views of the RobBrook area from its ledges.One path that the PMC started in 1927-1928 but neverfinished was a route to Green’s Cliff on the northwestside of the Albany Intervale. This imposing rock faceis prominent in northern views along the SandwichRange and from the Sugar Hill overlook along theKanc. The club marked a 5-mile long route from theSawyer Pond Trail to an outlook atop the west end ofthe main cliff, with a branch leading to the base of thecliff’s east end. Apparently these paths were neverfully cleared and were soon abandoned.The Green’s Cliff path was used in 1928 by an AMCrock climbing party led by Lincoln O’Brien. ThePage 3

group ascended 100 feet up the face but “were unableto find a route to the top of this magnificent cliff. Noother route could be found; the smooth, massive slabsseem impregnable.” Not until 1975 was the firstascent of Green’s Cliff made, by Jim Dunn andMichael Macklin.In addition to their trailwork, according to AMCguidebooks, the PMC maintained “a hut in AlbanyIntervale, N of the highway and E of the Inn, wheretrampers may cache supplies and secure maps andinformation.” Perhaps the WODC map of that era –priced at twenty-five cents in 1931 - was available forperusal or purchase at the PMC hut.The PMC’s tenure ended with the closing of the SwiftRiver Inn in the late 1930s. The property was passedon to the University of New Hampshire for summeruse by its Forestry School, and in 1969 it waspurchased by the U.S. Forest Service. The 1940edition of the AMC White Mountain Guide noted thatthe club had disbanded, and that “the future of thetrails still designated PMC in this text depends uponagreement between the WMNF and the University ofNew Hampshire Forestry School.” Ultimately, most ofthe trails that had been maintained by the PMCbecame the responsibility of the USFS. Though it’sbeen eight decades since the club faded from thescene, I still think of those maintainers of old everytime I go out to the Albany Intervale for trail work ora hike.NOTE: The classic history of the Albany Intervale isPassaconaway in the White Mountains, by CharlesEdward Beals, Jr., published in 1916 and available asa reprint from the Albany Historical Society.Thanks to Matt von Wahlde and Doug McVicar forsharing their research on the Albany Intervale and thePMC. Steve SmithSteve Smith is the owner of The Mountain WandererMap and Book Store in Lincoln NH, the Editor of theAMC White Mountain Guide, and a WODC member.In Memory of Joe SemmesJoe was a resident of both Wonalancet, N.H., and NewOrleans, La., and previously of Portland, Maine. Hewas a lover of history, travel, the great outdoors, yoga,good food, his dogs, dancing and, most of all, hisfamily. Joe considered himself a citizen of the worldand spiritual seeker.He was born on Oct. 20, 1949, in post-war,Bremerhaven, Germany. He learned to love Gregorianchant while a student at the Portsmouth AbbeySchool. Joe’s time completing his bachelors inbiological sciences at Dartmouth College waspunctuated by a stint serving the U.S. Army from1969 to 1971, including one tour in Vietnam.After returning to Dartmouth to finish hisundergraduate training, he then received a medicaldegree at the University of Cincinnati College ofMedicine. He completed his residency in InternalMedicine at St. Luke’s Roosevelt Hospital and afellowship in Critical Care Medicine at the Universityof Pittsburgh.Joe loved practicing emergency medicine at ArlingtonHospital in Virginia and Mercy Hospital in Portland,Maine. However, his involvement with and outlook onmedicine shifted following his 1997 diagnosis andPage 4

subsequent lifelongpancreatic cancer.battlewithneuroendocrineLater in his career, he practiced palliative caremedicine and was a Founding Incorporator of theHospice of Southern Maine and served on the MaineHealth Palliative Care Working Group. He alsopromoted holistic medicine as Director of Research atTrue North in Falmouth, Maine.As a cancer survivor, Joe was interested in how stateof-the-art medical care could be integrated with betternutrition, spiritual practices, exercise and easternmedical traditions.He loved walking in the woods of New Hampshire aswell as playing chess and squash. He had virtual chessgames going 24/7 with friends and family across thecountry. Joe had a wonderful sense of humor andplayfulness paired with a lively, inquisitive mind.But that was twenty-five years ago, and in spite of Mr.Beam’s final advice – “Please . . . stay away” –Wonalancet has been discovered. Big time.The number of cars arriving on busy days – and thenumber of busy days in all four seasons – are steadilyincreasing. The Ferncroft parking lot was built in1975 to hold 20 cars, an adequate number back then.But in recent years, on nearly every fair-weatherweekend day and on many weekdays as well, vehiclesare overflowing from the lot by early morning andspilling down Ferncroft Road.In 2020 numbers spiked. COVID is driving a hugeincrease in outdoor activities nationwide. Here inWonalancet car counts doubled.One beautifulSaturday this fall we had 121 cars stretching downFerncroft Road to the Chapel more than half a mileaway. Twenty cars were squeezed into the ChapelGrove where WODC holds its annual potluck. (Seephoto.)His family will miss his encyclopedic recall abouthistory and love of language. Joe also loved a goodgame of charades and reading Shakespeare out loudwith friends. The highlight of the last two years wasspending time singing to and playing with hisgrandson, Van.He found spiritual peace at his beloved WonalancetChapel, where he occasionally gave sermonsintegrating his thoughts about history, literature andGod.Joe was a descendant of Kate Sleeper. Joe and hiswife Elonide maintained a seasonal residence at theWonalancet Farm, Kate Sleeper’s Inn.Parking Pains at Ferncroft“My favorite place in New England is a parking lot,”declared author and journalist Alex Beam in theBoston Globe. “It is the narrow, grassy Ferncroftparking area, operated by the Wonalancet Out DoorClub,” where the lonely trails “open the back door tothe southernmost ridge of the White Mountains.”Hiker cars lining Ferncroft RoadThis situation puts WODC in a ticklish position. Weare a hikers’ club, founded to improve and develop theplace for hikers. But we also need to avoiddespoliation of the landscape, overuse of the trails,and alienation of local property owners. ThePage 5

importance of the latter becomes clear from a glanceat the map: there is no access to the National Forest orthe high peaks from Wonalancet except throughprivate property, graciously opened to the hikingcommunity by private landowners.WODC is responding with a hiker-friendly,multipronged parking initiative.Since visitorsoverwhelmingly want to do the right thing, educationis our top priority. Our message is simple: Parking isvery tight, so avoid weekends and holidays, choosealternate routes and trailheads, and carpool if you cando it safely.In Memory of Ted SidleyDr. Nathan Theodore (Ted) Sidley passed away onFriday, June 12, 2020, at the age of 91. He is survivedby his wife Barbara, his children Karen, Thomas andhis wife Jessie, and Ann and her husband Tom. Tedalso has five grandchildren, Patrick, Melissa, Sam,Sylvia, and Lena.Ted grew up in St. Paul, Minnesota, and attended theUniversity of Minnesota and subsequently theUniversity of Minnesota Medical School. Aftermedical school he entered a residency program inMost hikers research their trips – and they do it usingelectronic media. Fortunately, WODC Parking TaskForce member Philip Walsh is a social mediaprofessional. His parking advisories get our messageto a huge audience – one recent post to a Facebookgroup reached 14,600 hikers.Most of Ferncroft Road lies in Albany.Ourdiscussion of the problem with the AlbanySelectboard and Road Agent has led to an official NoParking zone on both sides of Ferncroft Road. Albanytook this action not for conservation reasons, but as asafety measure. Tickets can be – and have been –issued to violators.At the same time as we are pushing to get visitors outof inappropriate parking places we are building themnew legal parking spaces. Construction has alreadybegun to double the size of the current Ferncroft lot.Working with the WMNF Saco District and thelandowner, we have designed the expanded parkinglot to minimize the visual impact while increasingconvenience and safety.We don’t agree with Alex Beam. We do not want tosay “Please stay away,” but something more like:Please come, respectfully. And please spread theword, so that (to adapt the wisdom of Lao Tzu) thejourney to four thousand feet begins in a place of quietinspiration. Doug McVicarTed(center) heading out on a winter excursion toLost Pass with fellow WODC members.psychiatry at Yale University. When he was drafted,he served as a psychiatrist at Chanute Air Force basein Illinois. Upon receiving his honorable dischargefrom the military, he completed his psychiatrictraining at Harvard University. Ted had a voraciouscuriosity about the world. He had a love ofknowledge, science and language. Any question thatcame up, he was not satisfied with a brief or partialanswer–he really wanted to deeply understand anysubject. A new word would invariably send him to hisone foot thick dictionary in its place of honor on thenearby bookshelf. From family to friends, he loved toPage 6

welcome people of all ages and walks of life into hishome for food and conversation. He was trulyinterested in everyone, asking questions and listeningintently.Ted also had a passion for the outdoors and for nature.He loved to hike and ski near the family house inAlbany, NH. His love for the mountains was evidentin his tireless work in conservation which includedseveral multi-year projects to protect them fromdevelopment. Exceptionally active in the WODC, healso spent multiple years as the president of the WPA(both organizations’ mission was to conserve thenatural order and beauty of their little corner of NewHampshire, as well as maintain trails enjoyed bythousands of folks who loved the outdoors like him).Committing countless hours of research, organizingand lobbying, Ted’s dedication and effort provedintegral to many successes. As a result of his andothers’ work, the Sandwich Range Wilderness areawas created by an act of Congress.cat. At this point their “how to be a bear” educationbegins. For the next fourteen to fifteen months momteaches them what's good to eat, how and where tofind it, how to avoid those pesky humans (let's hopethey're not getting accustomed to handouts) and otheruseful bear hacks. Bears make excellent moms and thecubs usually have a survival rate of up to 80%.Along about May or June of the following year, momrealizes it's time to start the cycle all over again. Shegets a hankering for going out on the town and thecubs have become a hindrance. She chases the cubsoff. The male cubs wander far and wide to start theirlife as an independent bear. The females stay closer tohome and the lucky ones get a piece of their mother'sterritory to set up housekeeping. This is the mostTed’s curiosity and passion for understanding andimproving the world were truly inspiring. A devotedand patient husband, father, and friend, he will begreatly missed by those who knew and loved him.Black Bear CubsCubs are born completely furred but blind during thewinter, mainly in January, while the mother isoverwintering in a deep torpor. The size and numberof neonate cubs are dependent on the weight of themother. A useful rule of thumb is each cub will weighone two-hundredth of the mothers weight. Theaverage is a little over a half pound. The cubs may ormay not have the same father. During estrous, afemale bear will mate with more than one male. It hasbeen suggested that this can ensure safety for the cubsbecause the local males will be less likely to kill thecubs if the cubs might be their own offspring.For the first couple of months, the cubs dineexclusively on mother's milk, which is a particularlyrich soup of fat and protein. The cu

River Path 1.5.mile Ledges 1 mile Church Pond 1.5 miles Birch Hill 2.5 miles Sabba Day Falls 2 miles Mt Potash 2 Miles Mt Hedgehog via Una Path to Summit 1.8 miles Mt Hedgehog via Cliffs to Summit 2.6 miles Square Ledge 5 miles Owl’s Cliff 4.5 miles Mt Passaconaway via slide 4 miles Mt Tremont 6 miles Mt Tri-Pyramid 7 miles

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