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New Ways with WoolU.S. Wool Industry Future Tied to Organicsby ANDREA WATTSWith the proliferation of farmers’markets and public support for CSAprograms throughout the UnitedStates, farmers have multiple avenuesfor their produce to reach consumers.While society recognizes the value oforganic, sustainable farming, not allconsumers yet recognize the chemical-free benefits that wool can bringto their lives, and this directly impacts the ability of sheep farmers tomake a living. Through the efforts ofWoolgatherer Carding Mill and HolyLamb Organics, these businesses arehelping to create the markets to revitalize the U.S. wool industry.WOOLGATHERER CARDING MILLA conviction that the U.S. woolindustry had a future, when all signssuggested otherwise, motivated Patrick Holland to assemble the Woolgatherer Carding Mill 15 years ago.And his conviction has borne fruit;with consumers across the UnitedStates desiring a chemical-free bedroom, companies such as Shepherd’sDream and Holy Lamb Organics arefulfilling a demand for wool mattresses and bedding with Woolgath-Organic wool processed at the WoolgatherCarding Mill.Wool batting produced at the Woolgatherer Carding Mill in Montague, California.erer Carding Mill’s high-quality woolbatting filling their products.“I think that we’re all becomingmore natural in our lives youspend more time in bed than youprobably do at work, and you wantto make sure what you’re sleepingon is comfortable,” said Tom Moore,Woolgatherer Carding Mill’s generalmanager. He joined the mill as aconsultant in 2012, working part-timeuntil being brought on full-time inDecember 2013. During his tenureat the mill, Moore has seen an uptickin production which he describes asbeing two-fold: more wool manufacturers entering the market and anincreased desire for wool products.Wool has many desirable naturallyoccurring properties (including beingwater-resistant, temperature regulating and naturally flame retardant)that require chemicals to duplicate inother materials. This increased desire for woolproducts didn’t exist when Hollandsearched for a buyer of his wool morethan 20 years ago. As a shepherd inShasta Valley, he desired a living raising sheep, but unfortunately the market wasn’t there. Meeting Eliana Jantz,founder and owner of Shepherd’sDream, gave him hope that a marketcould exist. Jantz was unable to readily locate a source of high-qualitywool batting that she needed for bedding products, so Holland decided tobecome her source. He located a woolcarding mill for sale in Oregon andshipped its 30,000 pounds of turn-ofthe-century equipment to Montague,California, and began production.Because consumers only see thefinished mattresses and bedding in theshowroom or online, they likely aren’taware of the behind-the-scenes workundertaken by Woolgatherer CardingMill to produce the high-quality wool 9

Woolgatherer Carding Mill operates year-round. With a crew of one ortwo employees when Holland startedthe business, Moore says they havegrown to 16 full-time employees. Andwhile the recent recession has shownthat nothing in the economy can bepredicted, he sees “the business keepgrowing over the years to come aspeople become aware of the benefitsof wool we won’t see it grow inleaps and bounds like it did years ago,but I can see a real steady growth pattern happening.”Unfortunately Holland never livedto see the growth of his business; in2003, he unexpectedly passed awayafter being diagnosed with cancer. Nathon Thill, a close friend who was affiliated with Shepherd’s Dream, beganoverseeing the Woolgatherer CardingMill’s operations and assumed ownership at the request of Holland’s wife.Moore describes Thill as “One of thesmartest guys I’ve seen” when it cameto knowing every breed of sheep,the different characteristics of eachbreed’s wool and “just his in-depthknowledge of the whole bedding industry is so valuable.”Of their relationship with manufacturers, Moore is nothing but positive.He says they are willing to experimentcreating new products if asked, oneof which included testing an alpacaand an alpaca/wool blend. AlthoughA wool delivery arrives at Holy Lamb Organics in Oakville, Washington.batting that sets theirs apart from thecompetition. Before the wool is carded, it is shipped to Bollman Industries’scouring mill in San Angelo, Texas,where the wool is scoured, at the request of buyers, to remove the lanolin,Moore explains. Lanolin gives woolits water-resistant quality but can contaminate the finished product.When the newly cleaned wool returns to Woolgatherer Mill, its oldfashioned equipment combs the woolto create the batting that is fluffier andcleaner than is produced on modernequipment.“We process 400 to 1,200 poundsa day, depending upon how large theorder is,” said Moore. “We can millthe wool into lengths of 7 to 88 inchesin width and to diameters of 1.1 to 4.1inches in thickness depending uponour manufacturer’s requirements.”The wool supplied to WoolgathererCarding Mill is sourced from NewZealand, England and around theUnited States including the Roseburgarea, which is a “huge area for wool,some of the biggest growers on thecoast,” said Moore. Each year theybid on the Roseburg pool, which canresult in five to six semi-truck loadsof wool.They also purchase Oregon Tilthcertified wool directly from the growers, and processing this wool requiresextra work to keep the chain of cus-tody intact. The wool is manufacturedin different batches from the otherwool, and it can take two days to properly clean the mill before beginningprocessing, Moore explains. In thewarehouse, the wool is also stored inseparate containers to prevent crossmigration. In spite of the extra work,Moore recognizes the benefit becausethere are customers who “want it organic, period. It’s painstaking, yeah alittle bit, but it’s also staying true to theorganic product.”The historic “Little Bit” General Store built in 1902 serves as Holy Lamb Organics’ manufacturing center and retail store.

Moore sees Woolgatherer CardingMill as a small, specialty mill, he isoptimistic about its future growth.“Who knows what tomorrow willbring; that’s the exciting thing aboutit.”HOLY LAMB ORGANICSThe historic “Little Bit” GeneralStore, located along the main thoroughfare of the city of Oakville, Washington, is not only the showroom forHoly Lamb Organics but is also thecompany’s production floor and warehouse. If you happen to drop by on aMonday, you will likely find the placebustling with employees cutting wooland cotton for a mattress topper or pillow that was ordered online over theweekend. With the holiday season justa few months away, business has increased just as Willow Whitton, ownerof Holy Lamb Organics, predicted.The inspiration for Whitton’s business came about as she prepared for acamping trip to the Redwoods.“I wanted a pillow that was notonly cozy but was free of syntheticmaterials but I couldn’t find anything,so I decided to make it myself,” shesaid. While working three jobs, shepursued her idea and created a handmade wool pillow that she believedothers might like too. “I decided toquit my jobs and focus on doingsomething in my life that I could believe in.”In 2000, the Olympia Food CoOp became Whitton’s first wholesaleaccount. She describes doing quite abit of “guerilla marketing,” spendingover a year doing free marketing andpitching her handmade, chemical-freewool pillows and mattress toppers toother green businesses. “I knew thethe tip-out bins that used to holdwork was worthwhile because thereflour and potatoes now store invenwas a need for chemical-free wooltory and the original wooden floorproducts, and there’s been awarenesswas refinished. Moving to the city ofaround chemical sensitivity peopleOakville also proved to be a positiveare seeking out healthy, organic soluexperience.tions.”“I’ve had great support from theAn old school bus served as thecommunity,” said Whitton.company’s production floor, and aOf her customer base, Whittonfew years later Whitton faced a difestimates that 45 percent are retailers,ficult decision when she realized thatboth online and brick and mortar busibecoming a successful business renesses, such as ABCquired selling volumeCarpet & Home into remain solvent.New York City, Azure“Hiring an em“I knew the workStandard and Searsployee meant I hadonline; 45 percentto learn to trust andwas worthwhileare from their websitedelegate responsibiland the remaining 10ity, and when Jennabecause therepercent are walk-incame aboard in 2006customers, in spite ofproduction moved towas a need forHoly Lamb Organics’a room, then a twochemical-freelocation in rural Grayscar garage, and finallyHarbor County. “Peotwo years later to thewool products.”ple are willing to drive3,000-square-foot Litbecause their health istle Bit General Store inimportant.”Oakville.”Not all wool is the same, accordingWhitton describes the general storeto Whitton, and all of her productsas having a lot of character and hisare made from beautiful wool battingtory. The original 1902 furnishings areproduced at Woolgatherer Cardingstill in use — the counter is used as aMill.display area for brochures, the company scrapbook and product samples,Employees work at the Woolgatherer Carding Mill. The mill processes 400 to 1,200pounds of wool per day. 9

Willow Whitton is owner of Holy LambOrganics.“I originally used a mill based outof Seattle, but this mill owner approached me and pitched me theirstory.”During the course of a year, nearly2,000 pounds of wool are deliveredto Holy Lamb Organics and whatsets their wool products apart fromtheir competitors is its sustainability. With the vast majority of organicwool in the garment and beddingindustries coming from Australia andAcres U.S.A. is the national journal ofsustainable agriculture, standing virtually alone with a real track record — over35 years of continuous publication. Eachissue is packed full of information ecoconsultants regularly charge top dollarfor. You’ll be kept up-to-date on all of thenews that affects agriculture — regulations,discoveries, research updates, organiccertification issues, and more.To subscribe, call1-800-355-5313(toll-free in the U.S. & Canada)512-892-4400 / fax 512-892-4448P.O. Box 301209 / Austin, TX 78703info@acresusa.comOr subscribe online at:www.acresusa.comAn array of wool-based products line the shelves of Holy Lamb Organics’ showroom.tresses and Cozy Buns Organic BabyNew Zealand, Whitton’s wool onlyproducts. Of the four, the Cozy Bunstravels hundreds of miles instead ofOrganic Baby line is the most recent,thousands and it is U.S. sheep farmersintroduced in 2006. This line includesparticipating in the Premium Econot only wool comforters and matWool Program whose livelihoods aretress toppers but also products spesupported.cially designed for babies and nursingThe Eco-Wool Program is a volunmothers.tary program that rewards farmers forEven during the recent downturnpracticing sustainable farming pracin the economy, Whittontices by receiving a highersays her company has expayment when selling theirwool to the mill. Thoughperienced steady growth.NEED MOREBecause their productsthe wool is currently comINFORMATION?are high-end, she recoging from wool pools priFor more onWoolgatherernizes that not everyonemarily from the KlamathCarding Mill visitcan afford top of the lineregion in Oregon, there willthewoolgatherer.so clearance items, justsoon be a Pacific Northwestcom/index.php.like the full-price productslocal buy which means theTo learn moreexcept for minor defectsproducts will be even moreabout Holy Lambthat don’t detract from thelocally produced.Organics visititem’s use or appearance,Whitton describes workwww.holylambare available for purchase.ing backward when it cameorganics.Holy Lamb Organicsto developing Holy Lambcom. For morealsooffers chemical-freeOrganics’ product lines,informationwool mattresses, whichstarting with linens andon Shepherd’sare manufactured by otherthen working up to bigDream visitcompanies including Natticket items. Her companywww.shepherdsural Sense, WJ Southardmanufactures pillows, comdream.com.and Shepherd’s Dream.forters, toppers for mat-

These mattresses are made out ofonly organic cotton, wool and steelsprings, though some models alsoinclude natural latex.“The prices are fairly comparableto the other regular mattresses onthe market, just without the syntheticmaterials and fire retardant chemicals,” said Whitton. Wool is naturallyfire retardant and the mattresses thatHoly Lamb Organics offer pass thesafety tests with flying colors evenwithout the fire-retardant chemicals.For people that cannot afford to invest in a wool mattress, she recommends a wool topper as a good intermediate step.Because of the competitive marketplace, they are always renovating manufacturing techniques to beefficient, Whitton explained. “Weanalyze all our scraps and ask ourselves the question of what went intocreating this product from the farmers caring for the sheep to the millproducing the wool, and we are thengoing to throw it into the garbage?No!” said Whitton. The RekindleProgram, introduced in 2010, makesHoly Lamb Organics a zero-wastefacility. They partner with local artists who turn the “tiny resources”Mattresses on display at Holy Lamb Organics offer many options.“We provide profit sharing to ouremployees, which is very unique,and health care was offered in 2012,which was a huge step,” said Whitton. Since 2007, Holy Lamb Organicshas been Co-op America Approved,a certification that recognizes companies for being environmental andsocially responsible.into products such as baby booties,woolen balls, or tooth fairy pillows.Other zero-waste practices include returning the wool bags back to the millor recycling the plastic, and Whittoneven provides recommendations fordisposing of their wool products atthe end of their life cycle.Sustainability also extends to HolyLamb Organics’ employees, manyof whom are from the Oakville area. 9

the wool into lengths of 7 to 88 inches in width and to diameters of 1.1 to 4.1 inches in thickness depending upon our manufacturer’s requirements.” The wool supplied to Woolgatherer Carding Mill is sourced from New Zealand, England and around the United States including the Roseburg area, which is a “huge area for wool,

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