THE WORLD OF ANNA SUI The World Of Anna Sui Is A Fashion .

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ROCKSTAR & HIPPIE‘I guess I’m a rock chick at heart.’Referred to by journalist Hilary Alexander as the ‘Janis Joplin offashion’, Anna Sui has always grounded her collections with a passionfor rock and roll. From her early aim of designing clothes for rock starsto her enduring friendship with Anita Pallenberg – long one of Sui’smuses – the designer continually draws the aesthetic of the rock lifestyleinto her collections. When creating her collections Sui always questionswhether they would look good on Keith Richards and Anita.The textures, colours and patterns of the era, as seen in boutiques likeGranny Takes a Trip, in London, run through Sui’s designs and existalongside other inspirations and themes. It is her ability to weave theseelements together to make something completely contemporary but trueto her rock and roll sensibilities that is one of her hallmarks.

Davy Crockett Ensemble (Top row)Autumn 1992Wool herringbone Jacket and wool Union Suit by JamesCoviello for Anna Sui with suede cowhide Bra and ChapsCowhide belt, brass/glass/feather choker and feather/glass/cowhidelariat by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; Bag, fake fur cap byJames Coviello for Anna Sui; suede cowhide clogs by JohnFluevog for Anna SuiSui’s Autumn 1992 collection looked to two 1960s’ icons: JeanShrimpton and Penelope Tree. Both of these models had been thelovers of David Bailey, whose photos were a source of inspiration forthe designer. For the finale of her catwalk show, Sui merged thesensibilities of these 1960s’ models with the contrasting characters ofthe ‘Cavalier’ and the ‘Davy Crockett Cowboy’ (reflected in thisensemble). The linking feature is their swagger epitomised by both Tree

and Shrimpton and then replicated on the catwalk in the swagger ofNaomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, their modern-day equivalents.

Kozmik Ensemble (Middle row left)Spring 2015Silk georgette Dress and silk jacquard ShortsEnamelled brass necklace and bracelet by Erickson Beamon forAnna Sui; elastic/plastic belt, cowhide fanny pack and boots byBallin for Anna SuiSui named this collection ‘Kosmik Rock Star’. Inspired by the 1960sand channelling her fashion heroes Keith Richards and AnitaPallenberg, Sui’s Spring 2015 collection referenced iconic ‘SwingingLondon’ boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip and Mr Freedom. Thedesigner also took inspiration from the psychedelic posters and work ofgraphics collective Hapshash and the Coloured Coat, aka MichaelEnglish and Nigel Waymouth. To accentuate the glitz and glamour, Suiaccessorised her clothes with metallic lightning bolt platform shoesdesigned by footwear legend, Terry de Havilland. This collectionseemed to reflect many of Sui’s particular passions: ‘Anna Sui’s latest

collection felt like the one she was destined to design. It stitchedtogether – literally – a grab bag of her obsessions.’ (Tim Blanks, Vogue,14 September 2014)

Embroidered Jacket Ensemble (Middle row right)Spring 2014Embroidered linen Jacket and silk Shirt with rayon/silk TrousersScarf by James Coviello for Anna Sui; sneakers by Emma Hopefor Anna SuiAnna Sui is an avid visitor of museums where she often finds inspirationfor her designs. It was her visit to the Tate’s Pre-Raphaelite retrospectivethat provided the creative springboard for her Spring 2014 collection,which was inspired by the 1960s’ Pre-Raphaelite revival. ‘In game-changing boutiques like Granny Takes a Trip, London’s gilded youthbought into the languor and luxury of the Pre-Raphaelite legend.’ (TimBlanks, Vogue, 11 September 2009). Sui reflected her inspiration inher prints, choice of fabrics and intricate detail as seen here in thevelvet and fine embroidery. Although the detail is intricate and thefabrics sumptuous, the outfit exudes a laid-back cool in its fluid lines

and its casual accessories such as the sneakers and narrow trailingscarf.

Backless Chaps Ensemble (Bottom row left)Autumn 1992Wool jersey Cape and silk/polyester Shirt with studded suedecowhide ChapsGlass/brass choker by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; studdedsuede cowhide belt, G-string, suede cowhide boots by John FluevogThis outfit is famous for the backless chaps that Naomi Campbell worewith such swagger for the finale of Anna Sui’s Autumn 1992 catwalkshow counterbalancing Linda Evangelista sporting a ‘Cavalier’ lookcomplete with a curling feather adorning her hat. The studded fringedchaps were later worn by musician Marilyn Manson at an awardceremony. It has often been said that being at one of Sui’s shows is likebeing at a rock concert and her passion for music, and moreimportantly the style it inspires, always informs her designs:’ For a longtime, my goal was to design for rock stars and people who went torock concerts.’

‘I quickly realised the people I knew ashippies didn’t want to do anything,that going to live on a communewasn’t going to take them anywhere.Nice style though.’

Male Hippie (Bottom row centre-left)Spring 2014Embroidered linen with Mongolian fake fur trim Coat with Silk chiffonShirt and rayon silk velvet TrousersRayon panne velvet sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna SuiThis outfit is inspired by the 1960s’ rediscovery of the Pre-Raphaelitesas reflected in boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip and channelledin the romantic clothing, psychedelic posters and the interiors favouredby the rock personalities of the day. Sui loved the fact that Jimmy Pageof Led Zeppelin fame, for example, had accumulated a majorcollection of Edward Burne-Jones (1833–98) tapestries and WilliamMorris (1834–96) furniture. This outfit combines fabrics and texturesthat exude a richness and bohemianism characterising a ‘rich hippy’look that Sui revisits frequently. As she says herself, ‘I’m a sucker forpanné velvet.’ But while the outfit employs luxurious detailing, thesneakers add a note of informality even though they too are made ofpanne velvet.

Pop-sydelic Ensemble (Bottom row centre-right)Autumn 2016Mohair Jacket and Silk Shirt with rayon/silk devoré velvet TrousersBeaded and embroidered belt, brass/glass necklace by EricksonBeamon for Anna Sui; nylon hose by Atsugi for Anna Sui;suede/patent cowhide shoes by Ballin for Anna Sui‘Sui sent forth gorgeous jewel-toned velvets – seemingly by the bolt –baby-doll dresses, tie-dyes and deliciously trippy jacquards.’ (KristinAnderson, Vogue, 17 February 2016)Anna Sui coined the term ‘Pop-sydelic’ to name her Autumn 2016collection, which mixes elements of Carnaby Street at its zenith with thework of artists such as Peter Blake and the electric ambiance of the artdealer Robert Fraser’s influential gallery. Sui then added someEdwardian notes of the sort loved by boutique brands such as Granny

Takes a Trip and Mr Fish. This outfit is an intense mix of print andtexture layered Sui-style with richly detailed accessories.

Pop-sydelic Rock Star (Bottom row right)Autumn 2016Fake fur polyester Coat and Rayon Shirt with Rayon/silk velvetTrousersScarf; rayon panne velvet sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna SuiPart of Sui’s attraction to Granny Takes a Trip was the fact that theRolling Stones used to shop there and Keith Richards was a style heroof hers: ‘I used to say that I judged my clothes by how good they’dlook on Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg.’ This outfit epitomises a‘groovy’ rock and roll look combining print and texture to create ajewel-like intensity. The panne velvet sneakers designed by EmmaHope for Anna Sui seem to encapsulate the contradictorycombination of laid-back rocker chic and ‘haute hippy’.

Fringe Ensemble (On Anna Sui mannequin)Spring 2016Silk Top and TrousersBrass/plastic necklace by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; nylonsocks by Atsugi for Anna Sui; rayon satin covered cowhide sandalsby Hush Puppies for Anna SuiSui’s Spring 2016 collection encompassed a diverse range ofinfluences, some of them very personal. As well as the culturalreferences to the artist Paul Gauguin (1848–1903) and the popularfilm, Mutiny on the Bounty (1962), Sui also infused her collection withpersonal memories of her aunt whose family was based in Polynesiaand who once sent her mother a dress embroidered with smallseashells. This memory inspired several dresses in the collection.Zandra Rhodes, who had also been to Tahiti and recorded the visit inher sketchbook, designed a palm leaf and seashell print for Sui, whileBarbara Hulaniki of Biba fame provided illustrations for T-shirts. The

colour palette, too, was a direct result of Sui’s recent Polynesian tripreflecting the colours of the exotic landscape in names such as ‘teallagoon, hibiscus red, and pineapple yellow’. Added to this headytropical cocktail was a nod to the nostalgia and kitsch of the 1940s’and 1950s’ ‘sarong’ movies and the ‘tikibar’. This resulted in a playfulas well as colourful collection: ‘today’s Honolulu honeys embodied allthe best parts of kitsch: its colour, its humour, its play.’ (KristinAnderson, Vogue, 16 September 2015).The intense blues of this outfit, which combines a mix of prints, reflectthe tropical sea and evoke the blue of Henri Matisse’s (1869–1954)cut-outs. The halter neck and electric blue fringing reflect the idea of asarong-style dress and the pairing with loose trousers creates anelegant ensemble. The confluence of different inspirations for thiscollection underlines Sui’s innate ability to combine references fromboth high and low culture. The playful note of the collection, however,reflects the fact that Sui, despite her erudition, never takes herself tooseriously.

Pre-Raphaelite Dress (On Anna Sui mannequin)Spring 2014Silk chiffon DressGlass/plastic necklace by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; nylonsocks by Atsugi for Anna Sui; brass studded cowhide sandals byBallin for Anna SuiThis diaphanous printed chiffon dress with metallic fringing looks likethe perfect outfit to wear to a festival, accessorised with sparkling socksand studded cowhide sandals. Sui, always drawn to the world ofmusic, grew up hearing about Woodstock and always loved the ideaof going to a festival: ‘I loved the whole fantasy of festivals: going tosee music, sleeping under the stars, arriving at the Isle of Wight in ahelicopter to see Jimi Hendrix. The reality? Not so much.’ The colourpalette of the Spring 2014 collection was inspired by the iridescentcolours of the Pre-Raphaelite paintings that Sui saw at an exhibition atthe Tate Gallery, and her show featured her own cast of Pre-Raphaelite

heroines floating down the catwalk. This outfit exudes an ethereal aurawhile the metallic fringing adds some rock and roll swagger andmovement.

Kimono Ensemble (On Anna Sui mannequin)Spring 2016Silk Kimono and DressBrass/plastic necklace and bracelet by Erickson Beamon forAnna Sui; Nylon socks by Atsugi for Anna Sui; Cotton-coveredcowhide sandals by Hush Puppies for Anna SuiThe palm leaf print of this dress was designed by Zandra Rhodes who,like Sui, has visited Tahiti. The print of the kimono is a patchworkpattern, a Sui favourite. The fringed edge of the kimono suits thetropical theme of this collection as it seems to evoke the swaying frondsof a tropical palm tree. Sui, who creates spectacular fashion shows,included iridescent palm trees on her Spring 2016 catwalk.

The World of Anna Sui is aFashion and Textile Museum exhibitionImage Joshua Jordon

Scarf by James Coviello for Anna Sui; sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna Sui Anna Sui is an avid visitor of museums where she often finds inspiration for her designs. It was her visit to the Tate’s Pre-Raphaelite retrospective that provided the creative springboard for her Spring 2014 collection, which was inspired by the 1960s’ Pre-Raphaelite .

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