SEAFOOD AND THE MEDITERRANEAN
LW0REPORTEU2017SEAFOOD AND THE MEDITERRANEAN:LOCAL TASTES, GLOBAL MARKETSWWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017 1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSWritten and edited by WWF Mediterranean /Evan Jeffries (www.swim2birds.co.uk), primarily based on datacontained in two recent reports:Study on the interplay between national and imported seafoodproducts in the markets of EU Mediterranean Member States(Croatia, France, Portugal, Greece, Italy, Spain and Slovenia), byProyectos Biológicos Y Técnicos, S.L, July 2016Assessment of South-North seafood trade flows within theMediterranean – including all Maghreb countries, by Javier Macíasand Marc Savary, Canaest Consultores, December 2015Design by Catherine Perry (www.swim2birds.co.uk)Front cover photo: Fisherman in Ustica, Italy – Claudia Amico / WWFReferences and sources are available online atwww.mediterranean.panda.orgPublished in May 2017 by WWF – World Wide Fund For Nature(Formerly World Wildlife Fund), Gland, Switzerland.Any reproduction in full or in part must mention the title and credit theabove-mentioned publisher as the copyright owner. Text 2017 WWF. All rights reserved.KEY CONTACTSMarco COSTANTINIFisheries Project Manager, WWF Mediterraneanmcostantini@wwfmedpo.orgChantal MENARDCommunications Manager, WWF Mediterraneancmenard@wwfmedpo.orgWWF is one of the world’s largest and most experiencedindependent conservation organizations, with over 5 millionsupporters and a global network active in more than 100 countries.WWF’s mission is to stop the degradation of the planet’s naturalenvironment and to build a future in which humans live in harmonywith nature, by conserving the world’s biological diversity, ensuringthat the use of renewable natural resources is sustainable, andpromoting the reduction of pollution and wasteful consumption.This report has been produced aspart of WWF’s EU co-funded FishForward Project. Fish Forwardaims to raise awareness of theglobal impact of seafood choices made in Europe and their effects onpeople living in developing countries. www.fishforward.euDisclaimer: This publication is co-funded by the European Union. Thecontents of this publication are the sole responsibility of WWF and canin no way be taken to represent the views of the EU.2 WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017
Claudia Amico / WWFCONTENTSOVERVIEWSeafood is essential to the Mediterranean – but stocks are underpressure and the local trade relies on a far bigger global web4GLOBAL IMPORTS: THE LOCAL SPECIALITYFish-loving European Mediterranean nations import almosttwice as much seafood as they produce domesticallyTHE MEDITERRANEAN: FISH IN A GLOBAL MARKETThe regional seafood trade summarised in graphical formA COMPLEX INTERNATIONAL MARKETEuropean consumers rely on fishers in developing countries568HOW DID WE GET HERE?The once-abundant Mediterranean has suffered fromdecades of rising demand and falling stocksSUPPORTING SUSTAINABLE FISHERIES IN THE MEDITERRNEAN AND BEYONDEffective management and consumer education are essentialAQUACULTURE ON THE RISESustainable aquaculture is making an increasing contributionTHE FISH TRADE AND INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENTBenefits are only possible when the right conditions are created9101213THE SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD GUIDEWWF’s digital tool helps seafood shoppers across Europemake the right sustainable choices15WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017 3
OVERVIEWPeople have relied on fish since thebeginning of time. It’s essential to dietsthe world over, a crucial source of proteinand other nutrients. Internationally, fishis the most widely traded food commodity of all –while on a subsistence level it provides direct foodsecurity for countless coastal communities, most ofthem in the developing world.800MILLIONPEOPLE DEPEND ONFISHING AND THESEAFOOD INDUSTRYSome 800 million people depend on fishing and the seafood industry. Healthyfish populations play a vital role in maintaining ocean ecosystems from whichwe all benefit. In social terms, fishing is a way of life stretching back forgenerations, and it’s still at the heart of many cultures today.Fish is a particularly big deal in the Mediterranean. For locals and touristsalike artisanal fishing communities, fish markets, seafood restaurantsand maritime heritage are central to the region’s unique economic, socialand cultural identity. Abundant fresh local fish is as much part of theMediterranean as its golden beaches and its gentle sunny climate.But this popular image is a long way from the reality.The truth is, more than 93 per cent of assessed fish stocks in theMediterranean itself are threatened by overfishing, and face an uncertainfuture. Fishers from European Mediterranean nations harvest around threetimes as much of their catch out in Atlantic waters, and are present in everyworld ocean except the Antarctic Atlantic.93%OF ASSESSEDMEDITERRANEAN STOCKSARE THREATENED BYOVERFISHINGAnd the majority of the fish on display on European Mediterranean countersand menus? It’s imported, mostly from the developing world. In fact, forevery kilo of fish caught or raised by European Mediterranean countries,almost another two kilos are bought in from abroad.The Mediterranean seafood industry is part of a web that stretches rightround the globe. The fish people buy in the region directly influence not onlytheir own environment and societies, but also those of people far away, manyof whom are in the developing world. We urgently need new approaches,better ways of managing our relationship with fish and the oceans, and toembed sustainability at the heart of our approach to fish and the future.Here in the Mediterranean there’s a lot of work to do, and the same istrue for fisheries across the world. But if nations come together, if scienceis respected, if fishers focus on tomorrow as well as today – and if everyindividual fish lover plays their part too – we can still make sure our fish havea future.4 WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017
34.57BILLIONEUROPEANMEDITERRANEANNATIONS’ EXPENDITUREON FISH AND FISHERYPRODUCTS IN 20147.5 MILLIONTONNESOF FISH CONSUMEDBY EUROPEANMEDITERRANEAN NATIONSEACH YEARGLOBAL IMPORTS:THE LOCAL SPECIALITYThe Mediterranean’s dependence on other countriescomes as a big surprise to most fish-lovers – and this reallyis a part of the world where the subject is taken seriously!The EU states in the region – Croatia, France, Greece, Italy, Slovenia, Spain and Portugal(European Mediterranean) – are among the world’s highest consumers of fish. In 2014,European Mediterranean nations spent around 34.57 billion on fish and fishery products,some 63 per cent of the EU total.1. Spain, Italy and France between them account for morethan half of the EU figure, despite having only around a third of the EU’s population.Taking a different measure, the region has an annual mean consumption of 33.4kg offish per capita compared to an EU average of 22.9kg and a global average of 19.2kg. InPortugal, the figure is an enormous 56.8kg, more than a kilo of fish per person everyweek. Spain is the next highest at 42.4kg.2.European Mediterranean countries account for 36 per cent of all fish imported fromoutside the EU, and 42 per cent of the exchanges between member states.3.To give an idea of the scale of the trade, European Mediterranean countries consumealmost 7.5 million tonnes of fish each year – yet only around 2.75 million tonnes comefrom domestic sources. This leaves a much larger amount of fish to find from elsewhere:nearly 5 million tonnes every year.4.Fish-lovers in the Mediterranean are in fact key players in a global market, and theirbuying habits have global impacts. It’s really important that consumers understand thesignificance of their choices.2.75 MILLION TONNESDOMESTIC SOURCES19.2KG/YEAR33.4KG/YEARNEARLY 5 MILLION TONNESIMPORTEDGLOBAL AVERAGEFISH CONSUMPTIONPER CAPITAEUROPEAN MEDITERRANEANAVERAGE FISH CONSUMPTIONPER CAPITA1. EUROSTAT, 2014 amefrom the sea beyond.Of the assessed stocks, 93 per cent are threatened by overfishing; which means that if presentpractices continue unchanged, they’ll be unable to recover and populations will crash.Why? It’s a combination of unsustainable demand and ineffective management. Overthe last 50 years increasingly industrial methods, poor monitoring and control, illegal,unregulated and unreported (IUU) fishing, and environmental factors have all takena heavy toll. And yet landings grew every year until the mid-1990s, reaching a peak ofmore than 1 million tonnes in 1994.1.By 2013, the overall landing figure had fallen to 787,000 tonnes 2. – but this isn’tbecause people were showing increased restraint: it’s because the fish simply weren’tthere any more. It’s the same story in many other oceans worldwide, and the ongoingeffort to meet consumer needs around the world is one that must be approached on aglobal level.Falling fish numbers produce a classic vicious circle. Fishers need to earn a living, sothey go to greater lengths (larger nets, more time at sea etc) to target shrinking stocksjust when the stocks need to be given time to recover, making it even harder for thestocks to bounce back.One of the most common tendencies as numbers fall is to increasingly target juvenilefish, which are caught before they have the chance to reproduce – and this has obviousconsequences for the stock’s ability to regenerate.If we don’t take serious steps to protect the remaining fish stocks, the Mediterraneanmay never recover – and the same is true across our planet. Oscar Esparza / WWF1.and 2. The state of Mediterranean and Black Sea fisheries 2016, GFCM.WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017 9
SUPPORTING SUSTAINABLE FISHERIESIN THE MEDITERRANEAN AND BEYOND Bruno Pambour / WWF Ivan Bura / WWFAs we’ve seen, European Mediterranean nations dependlargely on imports to meet the demand for fish. Nobody,though, wants to see a situation where cheap importsmean local fishers face unfair competition from othercountries for their speciality products – particularly ifthe lower prices of imported fish can be traced back toweaker management and controls in developing nations.But with 93 per cent of assessed Mediterranean stocks already threatened by overfishing,it’s not as if fishers can just go out and catch and sell more to compete on price withindustrial-scale operations in distant waters. Falling yields are reducing overall fishingefforts, leading to less activity and employment in many ports – traditional ways of lifeare disappearing, along with the social cohesion they used to ensure. We urgently need toprotect what we have left, and work towards a sustainable future.Education matters. Informed consumers actively contribute to better outcomes. If theyknow what they’re really eating, how it’s caught, where it comes from, and what impactsits harvest has had, then social and environmental factors become more importantin buying decisions. Labelling must be comprehensive and correct, so consumers canunderstand and trust what they’re told.A better understanding of sustainability and the realities underpinning the EuropeanMediterranean market could increase support for the right kinds of local fish whilepromoting sustainable aquaculture to take pressure off other stocks. It would also allowconsumers to support well-run fisheries in developing countries. In all cases, however,traceability is paramount: understanding begins with information, and right now thereneeds to be more of both – from the sea to the plate.10 WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017
ACTIONS WE CAN TAKEThere are some clear steps we can take right now to begin to reverse the damage that has been done– and as they become established, best practices can be shared across the whole region:FISH SUSTAINABLYThe most obvious thing to do is to safeguard what remains and allow fish stocksto recover and be maintained at sustainable levels. This means EuropeanMediterranean nations cooperating to ensure that stocks are managed sustainably,that juvenile fish are protected, that effective measures are put in place to combatthe growing threats posed by IUU fishing, and that traceability is guaranteed.Certification from bodies like the Marine Stewardship Council is the best availablestandard to aim at and to look for on the shelves.TRY DIFFERENTSPECIESWhen it comes to buying fish we’re creatures of habit, and we tend to do what we’vealways done. That means we stick with the fish we know, and the fishers will try andmeet our needs – but if a species is threatened by overfishing, continuing to target itwill cause grave damage to remaining numbers. The species in question vary from onecountry and tradition to the next, but the pattern remains the same. And yet there areplenty more fish in the sea! WWF are encouraging European Mediterranean fish buyersto step outside their usual habits and try something new – sustainable local specieswhich are less commonly caught but which can provide a delicious alternative, or fishproduced in the region through sustainable aquaculture, or sustainably sourced importslike Vietnam’s pangasius (provided, of course, that it’s organic or ASC certified).MAKE INFORMEDCHOICESConsumers make positive choices: the European Mediterranean fishing fleet canmarket its products with this in mind. In a region where seafood shoppers care aboutfreshness, quality and heritage, there’s a real opportunity to make particular fish moreattractive than the competition: origin means something, and traditional local artisanshave an advantage over distant industrial producers. Regional products supportcommunities and have important cultural resonance. If more people understand wherethe fish on offer really comes from, sustainably produced local fish becomes that muchmore attractive.CREATE NEWMARKETSSmall-scale fishing operations can’t do much to access new markets on their own, buttheir power and the potential value of their catch increases hugely if they link up withother stakeholders and focus together on structures that benefit everyone. These canrange from conveniently regulated and transparent direct sales to restaurants nearlanding areas (especially in tourist regions), to the identification of new markets forspecies during seasonal peaks, to distribution agreements with wholesalers and localtraders: retailers need a regular and diversified supply, and local fisher associationscan – collectively – provide one. Communities that used to rely solely on fishing canembrace other related opportunities to make the most of their primary asset: fishingtourism, wildlife watching, cultural heritage (fishing techniques, gastronomy etc),sustainable aquaculture and other sectors can all make important contributions toregional economies while keeping fish at the heart of things.WWF Seafood and the Mediterranean 2017 11
AQUACULTURE ON THE RISEGlobal catches have declined by more than 10 per cent since theyear 2000, while the EU as a whole has seen its harvest reduced bymore than a quarter in the same period. Other than going after moredistant deep-water species, aquaculture is the only realistic way ofmaintaining or increasing the volume of fish produced by EuropeanMediterranean nations.But as with fishing, there are good and bad forms of aquaculture. When it’s responsibly managed, aquaculturecan be an excellent and environmentally friendly alternative that takes pressure off wild stocks, benefitscommunities, and makes an important contribution to national nutritional needs. Done badly, it can polluteand damage ecosystems, unbalance local economies, produce poor product, and entrench unacceptableworking conditions.Certification schemes – such as the Aquaculture Stewardship Council and organic certifications – are animportant way of helping people choose responsibly farmed fish. There’s increasing momentum in thisdirection: as consumers become better educated on the real consequences of their choices, more and more
Mediterranean as its golden beaches and its gentle sunny climate. But this popular image is a long way from the reality. The truth is, more than 93 per cent of assessed fish stocks in the Mediterranean itself are threatened by overfishing, and face an uncertain future. Fishers from European Mediterranean nations harvest around three
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