PH Chicken Coop Checklist - The Prairie Homestead

CONTENTSBuilding  a  Chicken  Coop4Option One: Remodel an Existing Building4Option Two: Building a Chicken Coop from Scratch4Option Three: Buy a Pre-Made Coop4Important  Items  in  a  Chicken  Coop5Chicken Roosts5Nesting Boxes5A Chicken Run or Yard6Ventilation7Bedding/Flooring8Food and Water8Electricity9More  Considerations  for  Your  Coop10Rodents10Fly Control10Wild Birds13More Chicken-Keeping Tidbits for You:14About Jill15WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM2

SO YOU’RE FINALLYCONSIDERING CHICKENS.You’re ready to add a small flockto your homestead (or yourbackyard) and you want to do itright. But where do you start?What’s the first step? And whatthe heck are you going to doabout a chicken coop?Today we’re tackling this very question, so consider this your chicken-coops resource.A word of warning: chickens tend to be the gateway into this great bitcrazy world of modern-day homesteading, so I cannot be responsible ifgetting your first flock leads you down the road to bigger gardens, morechickens, and maybe even a goat in the future. You’ve been warned. ;)— JillWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM3

BUILDING  A  CHICKEN  COOPOption One: Remodelan Existing BuildingIf you have a small outbuilding,garden shed, or corner of anexisting barn, any of these can semieasily be converted into a coop.Option Two: Buildinga Chicken Coop fromScratchChicken coop plans aboundonline, and if you are sorta handywith tools and have no existingbuildings to work with, this mightbe an attractive option. A coopdoesn’t have to be a mansion, aslong as it is sturdy and stable.Option Three: Buy a Pre-Made CoopThis is probably my least-favorite option, as many of the pre-made coops I’veseen are kinda flimsy and aren’t exactly cheap. However, if you are in a hurryand need a coop NOW, it’s worth a look. Many local farm or garden storesare carrying small chicken coop kits now, or you can even order them onlineor from Amazon.WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM4

IMPORTANT  ITEMSIN  A  CHICKEN  COOPChicken RoostsWHY:By nature, chickens want to be upoff the ground at night while theysleep. You will need some sort ofroosting area in your coop to fulfillthis need.REQUIREMENTS:Our roosts are very simple — wedrilled 2x4s around the perimeter of the coop and called it good. You canalso do a variety of tiered roosts if you have a lot of birds – the style doesn’tmatter, as long as they have a way to get off the ground. Shoot for about 12″of roost space per bird – although they often crowd in much tighter thanthat. Also, you’ll accumulate a lot of chicken poop under your roosting areas,so consider a removable board under this area to make cleaning easier.Nesting BoxesWHY:Laying hens will seek out a privatespace to lay their eggs. Nestingboxes keep eggs off the ground andprevent them (sometimes) fromgetting broken or eaten by otheranimals. It’s also much easier tocollect eggs from a nesting box,versus having to hunt all over theyard for the hidden nest.WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM5

REQUIREMENTS:There are a million-and-one ways to create a nesting box. Shoot for a boxthat is around 12″ high by 12″ wide. You need approximately one box perfour hens. However, I’ve found no matter how many chickens we’ve had, theyalmost always only use 1-2 boxes and just take turns. Place the boxes severalfeet off the ground.BONUS TIP: Click here to Learn about Herbs for Nesting BoxesA Chicken Run or YardWHY:Chickens are designed to forage, hunt, and scratch. Keeping them constantlyconfined indoors in a very small space will create unhappy chickens, and ain’tnobody wants unhappy chickens.REQUIREMENTS:Make sure they have at least a small enclosure that allows them to get freshair and scratch in the dirt a bit. If you live in the country with minimalpredators, you may be able to simply open the door of the chicken coop soWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM6

the flock can have free range of your barnyard. However, if you live in townor have predators, this won’t work. In those cases, I recommend building asmall enclosed run or pen that is attached to your coop. Many chicken runshave coverings on top to prevent birds from flying over the top, and also tokeep predators and birds of prey out of the run.BONUS TIP: Click here to Learn about How to Build a Chicken RunVentilationWHY:Poorly ventilatedcoops equal sickbirds, as ammoniaand dust particlescan build up in astuffy coop. In verycold, damp climates,a build-up of humidair in the coop canincrease your flock’schance of gettingfrostbite. If you live in a very warm climate, you may even consider having acoop design that allows you to remove an entire section of wall to allow coolair to flow through the coop during the hottest months.REQUIREMENTS:Ventilation can come from windows, actual vents, or holes drilled near thetop of the coop. Remember that drafts (cold air blowing directly on the birds)are different than ventilation. Very drafty coops can cause problems, so try tokeep your vents up high whenever possible. This is another reason roosts areimportant — they keep your birds off the floor and away from the coldest air.WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM7

Bedding/FlooringWHY:A clean coop healthy chickens. It doesn’t need to be hospital-grade sterileby any means, but you do need to avoid a build-up of chicken manure andammonia. The flooring and bedding you choose will play a big role here. Notto mention, chicken manure is actually one of the perks of owning chickens,as it makes great fertilizer for gardens and beds.REQUIREMENTS:If you have a dirt floor, then I recommend the deep-litter method. Thismethod can reduce the amount of cleaning you have to do, and gives yourchickens a chance to help you with composting. However, if you have a woodfloor, you’ll need to cover it with some sort of bedding. We personally usecheap pine shavings from the feed store, but you can also use straw. Planon cleaning/replacing at least a portion of the bedding every couple weeks.(If you leave it too long, you’ll increase your chances of a rotting floor )Food and WaterWHY:Because chickens need toeat and drink.REQUIREMENTS:The biggest considerationwith your feeders andwaterers is wastereduction and preventing spills. Feeding your flock can be as simple asputting out a pans filled with feed and water, or as fancy as buildingelaborate feeders. The sky’s the limit when it comes to feeder styles.BONUS TIP: Learn How to Make Homemade Chicken FeedWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM8

ElectricityWHY:Electricity in your coop isn’t an absolute requirement but it’s incredibly niceto have if you: Have very cold winters and want to have a heated water bucketOften do chicken chores in the darkWant to add supplemental light to your coop to extend the laying seasonWant to add heat lamps to your coopREQUIREMENTS:We have several simple lightbulbs inside our coop, along with a number ofstrategically-placed outlets for heat lamps and water bowls.BONUS TIP: Learn How to Keep Chickens Warm in the WinterWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM9

MORE  CONSIDERATIONSFOR  YOUR  COOPRodentsLike it or not, mice are apart of country living.With all the grain layingaround, and lots of placesto hide, it’s pretty muchmouse-heaven. If youstruggle with lots ofrodents in the chickencoop, you may need toconsider only feedingsmall amounts of feed ata time (not free-choice) and definitely keep your extra feed tightly containedin air-tight containers (we use large trash cans with lids).Fly Control1. Fly Predators: Fight the annoying bugs with good bugs. When you orderfly predators, you’ll get a lovely little baggie of predator pupae (cocoonthings) in the mail. Let the bag sit for a few days until the tiny predatorsbegin to hatch, then deposit them in key spots (aka manure piles) aroundyour barnyard. The adult predators feast on the pupa of the annoyingflies, and you get a fly relief program that doesn’t require pesticides. Onecaveat: chickens like to eat the predator pupae, so try to deposit themin an area where your chickens don’t have easy access.WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM10

2.Diatomaceous Earth (DE): DE isa fine powder made from thefossilized remains of algae, ordiatoms. I use it in variousapplications around my barnyard,garden, and the coop as a naturalpest deterrent. Sprinkle DE in andaround coop bedding or in areaswhere chickens take their dustbaths. DE works from a mechanicalaspect, not a chemical one, as ittends to dry out insects and makeareas less hospitable for larvae.(Wear a mask when you spread it,as it can be irritating to yourlungs.)3.Keep it Clean: One of the bestways to discourage flies fromcongregating is to remove stinky,smelly, sticky, or sweet things. Thismeans cleaning out and fresheningthe coop more frequently toremove areas of wet manure (afly’s #1 favorite substance). Themain offending areas areunderneath roosts and perches. Some folks place a board under thoseareas, so they can easily carry the board outside to scrape it off. Ipersonally just make it a point to clean the bedding under the roosts morefrequently, or remove the big piles. I also add fresh bedding frequently (toreduce the smell), turn over existing dry bedding, and sprinkle on mydiatomaceous earth in the process.4. Fly Traps and Fly Strips: While you can certainly use fly strips in yourcoop, depending on how many flies you have, you might find yourselfreplacing fly strips quite frequently. If that’s the case, a better option is afly trap. You can purchase fly traps (and accompanying attractants/bait),OR make your own homemade fly trap from an old plastic bottle instead.WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM11

5. Make Essential Oil or Herbal Sprays: As part of an overall fly controlprogram, there are many, many herbs and essential oils that bugs justplain don’t like, and mixing them into a spray is a great way to make yourchicken coop even less appealing to our little buzzing friends. An addedbonus: it makes your coop smell all happy.A Few Essential Oils Bugs Hate: Rosemary, basil, dill,peppermint, spearmint, lavender, thyme, geranium, lemongrass,citronella, lemon, wild orange, etc.A Few Herbs Bugs Hate: Rosemary, mint, basil, dill, lavender,thyme, bay leaves, tansy, etc.BONUS TIP: Chicken Coop Fly Repellent Recipe 2 cups vinegar (how to make your own vinegar) 40 drops of essential oil (can be a single oil, or acombination of any of the oils listed above)2 cups water2 tablespoons real vanilla extract (how to makevanilla extract)Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle. Shake well, andspritz generously in the coop wherever flies congregate. (Forme, that’s around the main door. It has a window in it andalways has the most flies around it — unless I keep it sprayeddown, that is.)WWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM12

Wild BirdsWild birds can carry disease which may be passed to your chicken flock. Theywill also devour your chicken feed.For preventing wild birds, some folks suggest just keeping the coop doorsclosed all the time (my hens would be furious ) or only offering a very smallamount of feed, multiple times per day, to avoid thievery from wild birds.(I’m way too lazy to keep up with that sort of program.)But I found my solution in the form of (are you ready for this? It’s prettyhigh-tech ): CDs and baling twine.I dug through my CD (yes, as in compact-disc) collection to find any old,scratched ones that no longer played. I tied a length of baling twine throughthe hole, and attached the other end to the ceiling of my coop, and voila!Wild birds don’t like the shiny, swaying objects hanging haphazardly fromthe ceiling, which is why it’s a successful deterrent.Bonus Tip: Check out this post for Images of my Hanging CDsWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM13

More Chicken-Keeping Tidbits for You: How to Whitewash Your Chicken Coop 15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed Preparing for New Chicks Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for ChicksWWW.THEPRAIRIEHOMESTEAD.COM14