THE Green Neighbor
THEGreenNeighborGUIDE
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T SIntroduction1What Is The Green Neighbor Guide?How to Select Your Stormwater Management ProjectsStormwater Management Explained1Downspout Disconnections2Rain Barrels3Rain Gardens and Bioswales711Planting PlansPlant List for Part to Full ShadePlant List for Full SunCommon Species of Concern in Illinois4Permeable Pavement5Dry Wells2733Green Guide GlossaryInternet ResourcesCredits38373617
IntroductionWater is one of the most valuable resources onour planet. We require clean and fresh waterfor drinking, cleaning, recreation and otheractivities. However, too much of it can become anuisance when it causes flooding in waterwaysand urban areas, impacting our travel when roadsare flooded and even damaging our homes andbusinesses.The Metropolitan Water Reclamation Districtof Greater Chicago (MWRD) has a vision for“Recovering Resources, Transforming Water.” Atthe MWRD, we value the importance of water asa critical resource. We strive not only to protectthe quality of water in our rivers and streams, butalso to find ways to “transform” water—reducingits potential damaging force and turning it intoa benefit for our communities. To achieve thisvision, we work with local municipalities, agenciesand partners to implement flood control andgreen infrastructure projects.Everyone, including you as a homeowner, canbe a “Green Neighbor” and play an active rolein transforming water. This guide provides youwith step-by-step instructions on how to improvestormwater management on your property.In doing so, you can help protect our waterenvironment, green up your neighborhood andreduce flooding in your community.WHAT IS THE GREEN NEIGHBOR GUIDE?While there are myriad ways to be a Green Neighbor—some actions can be as simpleas not over-fertilizing your lawn and garden, washing and maintaining your vehiclesproperly, or planting a native tree—this guide focuses on stormwater managementprojects that you can build or install on your property.In this guide, you will learn how to stop sending stormwater directly into the sewerby disconnecting the downspouts; how to install rain barrels or cisterns to capturestormwater for reuse; how to install dry wells and rain gardens to allow stormwaterto filter into the ground; and how to replace asphalt and concrete surfaces withpermeable paving to reduce stormwater runoff. These projects are sometimes referredto as Best Management Practices or Green Infrastructure. They are designed tomanage stormwater by slowing it down, storing it and soaking it into the ground, ratherthan sending the stormwater straight into the sewer.4INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION15
An illustration of how various stormwatermanagement projects can be implemented at atypical single-family ain BarrelDry Well2INTRODUCTIONPermeablePavementINTRODUCTION3
HOW TO SELECT YOUR STORMWATERMANAGEMENT PROJECTSSTORMWATER MANAGEMENT EXPLAINEDThe stormwater management projects in this guide are specially selected fortheir relative ease of installation and lower level of maintenance. Dependingon the size of your lot and available yard space, not all of these projects will beappropriate for installation on your property. Use the following table to helpguide your project selection. These projects are not mutually exclusive; youcan incorporate more than one element if sufficient space is available.LOT SIZEDownspoutDisconnectionSmall Urban(1/8 acre or less)Medium(1/8–1/2 acre)Large(1/2 acre or larger)LEGEND: RainBarrels Rain Gardensand Bioswales PermeablePavement Suitable Suitable if there is adequate non-paved area DryWells In general, downspout disconnection is the easiest stormwater managementproject you can implement at your home. You may need to consider includingadditional elements to your stormwater project to manage the stormwaterreleased by the disconnected downspouts. If your lawn has a low spot andthe stormwater pools at that location, consider installing a rain garden and/or abioswale (see Chapter 3). If stormwater must flow over a paved surface, considerreplacing the pavement with permeable pavers (see Chapter 4). If you do nothave enough space on your property, consider installing a drywell (see Chapter 5)which can collect stormwater and allow it to slowly drain into the soil. You can alsocapture water in a rain barrel see Chapter 2) to water your landscape, returningthe water to the ground and saving money on your water bill.Difficulty of construction, cost, and maintenance requirements may alsoinfluence your project selection. In the following table, the quantity of a symbolis used as a measure of level of effort, cost, or time. The wheelbarrow symbolsignifies the level of construction difficulty; the dollar sign indicates cost;and the clock symbol represents the amount of time required for long-termmaintenance.PROJECT COMPLEXITYDownspoutDisconnectionRainBarrelsRain Gardensand icultyCostMaintenanceRequiredWhile many of these projects can be installed easily by an averagehomeowner, some projects involve more effort in design and construction.Hiring a professional for installation should be considered.4INTRODUCTIONWhen it rains, some of the water is soaked into pervious surfaces such asyour lawn and garden. But much of the water will run off from the impervioussurfaces such as your roof, driveway and sidewalk. Stormwater runoff fromyour property is then typically collected by the sewer under the street.Flooding can occur during and following heavy rainfall for a number of reasons: The sewer system may have reached its capacity. The surface drainage path may not be sufficiently designed to carry thestormwater flow. Lack of maintenance to the sewer and surface drainage system.These all can be contributing factors to flooding. But the main culpritoftentimes is the lack of storage volume for stormwater—the excess rainsimply has nowhere else to go. For many communities that were built priorto the 1980s, stormwater storage typically provided by detention ponds wasoften not part of the existing stormwater management system. Low-lyingspots in your backyard and on the streets therefore become the effectivestorage areas.Compounding the problem of insufficient storage is the fact that in someolder neighborhoods, there are no separate sewers for stormwater. In thiscase, both stormwater and sewage are collected by the same sewer. Thesecombined sewers were generally not designed to carry a large amount ofstormwater. When the capacity of the combined system is reached, you mightexperience basement backups and flooding. The sewage combined withstormwater could also overflow into local streams and rivers, polluting ourwater environment. To prevent flooding, improve water quality and protect ourecosystems, the MWRD, municipalities and residents need to work together toresponsibly manage stormwater in our communities.INTRODUCTION5
CHAPTER 1DownspoutDisconnectionIf your downspouts are connected to underground pipes that lead to themunicipal sewer system, you can slow down the stormwater by disconnectingthem and collecting the water in a rain barrel or cistern or simply letting itsoak into the ground. This is especially important in older neighborhoods withcombined sewers where sanitary sewage and stormwater drain into the samepipes. When it rains, stormwater from your roofs and gutters can overwhelmthe sewer system and may lead to basement backups, flooding in yourcommunity and combined sewage overflowing into nearby rivers and lakes.Disconnecting the downspouts is one of the cheapest and easiest stormwatermanagement projects you can implement at your home.10INTRODUCTION7
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSSTEP 4Cap the standpipePlace a cap on the standpipe sowater cannot continue to enterthe sewer from this point.TOOLS & MATERIALSYou will need the following tools and materials: Hacksaw Sheet Metal Screws Drill Downspout Elbow Screwdriver Downspout Extension Pliers Standpipe Cap Tape Measure Splash BlockSTEP 1Select downspouts andlocations to releasestormwaterPicking the right location toredirect downspout wateris important to protect thefoundation of your house andprevent water from finding itsway to your basement. You willwant to make sure that: Water flows away from yourhouse and all structures. A downspout can beextended at least 6 feetfrom your home to preventfoundation damage. Water will not flow into anarea with a steep slope.Fast flowing water will causeerosion to a steep slope. A downspout does notrelease water directly ontosidewalks and pavement.Provide at least 6 feet of lawnor garden space for water tosoak into the ground. Water is not released directlyto your neighbor’s property.8STEP 2Measure the downspoutMeasure your downspout 9inches from the standpipe, thepipe that goes underground.Make a mark on yourdownspout.DOW NSPOUT DISCONNECTION24STEP 5Attach the downspoutelbowUsing pliers to ensure a tightfit, attach the downspout elbowto the downspout section stillattached to your house.56STEP 3Cut the downspoutUsing the hacksaw, cut thedownspout where you madeyour mark. Be careful to protectany siding while cutting thedownspout.STEP 6Secure the downspoutelbowUsing sheet metal screws anda drill, secure the elbow to thedownspout.STEP 7Attach the downspoutextensionUsing sheet metal screws anda drill, secure the downspoutextension to the elbow.STEP 8Prevent erosionPlace a splash block at the endof the extension to help preventerosion and direct water. Youmay also choose to placedecorative rock at this locationas part of a rain garden orbioswale installation.3788DOW NSPOUT DISCONNECTION9
CHAPTER 2Rain BarrelsRain barrels typically consist of a water-tight container, a spigot and anoverflow pipe to allow excess water to drain. They are usually placed beneathdownspouts which are modified to direct stormwater into them. Watercaptured by a rain barrel is highly oxygenated and generally lacks chemicalsfound in treated tap water. It is ideal for gardens and ornamental plants,contributing to healthier root structures. By installing rain barrels, you cansave thousands of gallons of water annually while reducing your utility bill andhelping to decrease the amount of stormwater being sent to the sewer. TheMWRD sells rain barrels and shares a video of a rain barrel installation on itswebsite at mwrd.org/rain-barrels. If you would like to collect and store morewater than a typical rain barrel allows, you can consider installing a cistern withlarger capacity instead.Water collected by a rain barrel should not be consumed but can be usedto water plants and wash cars, bikes and tools. You can paint your rainbarrel if you first gently buff the surface with sand paper and apply a primerformulated for plastics.14INTRODUCTION11
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS3TOOLS & MATERIALS4In addition to the items included with your rain barrel, you will need the following tools and materials: Hacksaw Marker Straight-edge ruler orT-square Safety glasses and safetygloves heet metal screwsS DrillTin snips Flat-head and Phillipsscrewdrivers Level Hammer Concrete blocks or rainbarrel stand* Pavers or pea gravel* Standpipe Cap Splash Block*Optional, but recommendedSTEP 1Pick a location for yourrain barrelDetermine which downspout isbest suited for your rain barrel.When selecting a site, considerthe following: Pick a site closest to thearea(s) you want to water. Select a location where therain barrel can be elevatedso that you can fit a wateringcontainer underneath thespigot or attach a hose. Choose a site that is mostlyflat to help in leveling the rainbarrel (see Step 2). Do not choose a site that willimpede doors, driveways,paths, or equipment such asair conditioning units. Make sure your site slopesaway from the house sowater will not seep into thehouse foundation. Avoid locations near groundlevel basement windows orwindow wells.1STEP 2Level the baseCreate a flat, level surface onwhich to place the rain barrel.This can be done by installing a3-inch thick layer of pea gravelor by placing a 3-foot-by-3-footpaving stone on a level surface.Use a level to ensure thesurface is fairly flat.25If using concrete blocks, apea gravel base surface isrecommended; if using a rainbarrel stand, a paver basesurface is recommended.Place your rain barrel on thestand to elevate it enough soa watering can may be placedunderneath, or a hose can beattached to the spigot.STEP 3Measure and mark thedownspoutAssemble, if required, therain barrel according tomanufacturer’s instructions.Rainwater can be divertedfrom the downspout to therain barrel using a flexible,extendable plastic elbow. (Youcan also reuse the existing rigidelbow at the bottom of thedownspout.) To measure wherethe downspout needs to be cut,first place the barrel beside thedownspout (and on the standif you are using one). Using astraight edge or T-square, drawa line on the downspout at thesame height as the top of thebarrel. Draw another line atleast 8 inches above the firstline. The section of downspoutbetween these two lines will becut out in the next step.Extend the flexible elbow andplace one end at the upperline on the downspout andthe other end at the top of thebarrel. Check to make sure thatthere is adequate height for12R AIN BARRELSthe installation of the elbowand for the water to flow fromthe downspout to the barrel.Redraw the higher cut line ifnecessary.Alternatively, you can choose toinstall a variety of downspoutdiverters available on themarket. Some diverters allowyou to reuse the existing lowerportion of the downspout asan overflow; some have addedscreen to filter out debris; andsome have a damper to turnon/off flow diversion. For theinstallation of a diverter, followmanufacturer’s instructionsspecific to the diverter youpurchased.STEP 4Cut the downspoutUsing a hacksaw, cut anddiscard the section ofdownspout between the twomarked lines. Place cardboardbehind the downspout whilecutting to protect the exteriorwall of your house.STEP 5Attach the flexible elbow tothe downspoutAttach and secure the flexibleelbow to the top portion of theremaining downspout with sheetmetal screws and a drill. Youmay need to add an additionalaluminum strap to secure thedownspout to the exterior wall.You can remove and discard thelower portion of the downspout.Alternatively, if the downspoutis already disconnected fromthe sewer and you are not tooconcerned about the aesthetics,you can leave it in place. Whenyou put the rain barrel away forthe winter, you can reconnectthe top and bottom portions ofthe downspout with the flexibleelbow (See Step 8).STEP 6Attach the lid and place rainbarrelPlace the mosquito-proofscreen-lid on the rain barreland tighten using the providedhardware. Place the stand orconcrete blocks (if used) andplace the rain barrel on top ofthe stand.R AIN BARRELS13
Adjust the flexible elbow sothat its end is pointing towardthe screened inlet at the top ofthe barrel. Place the end of theoverflow hose away from thefoundation of your house.STEP 7Finished!Congratulations! You have nowinstalled your rain barrel. Youwill be collecting a lot of waterfrom your roof. A common wetweather event will likely fill oroverfill an empty rain barrel.Therefore, it is critical to emptyyour rain barrel to restore itscapacity prior to a rain event.This alleviates any potentialbasement seepage issues orfoundation damage caused bythe overflow of excess water.ANATOMY OF A RAIN BARREL7screenedinletflexibleelbow8You may also consider connectingyour rain barrel to a series ofrain barrels or installing a largercistern, so you can capturemore rain water for reuse.STEP 8MaintenanceLeaves and debris collected bythe gutter and downspout willclog the screened inlet overtime. If the inlet is clogged,water will overflow and maycause basement seepage orlead to foundation damage.Erosion (washout) of soilaround the barrel is oftenindicative of an overflowedbarrel. Check the screenedinlet monthly and keep it freeof debris.You will need to store the rainbarrel over the winter. Freezingwater will expand and damagethe barrel. Follow these stepsfor the winterization of yourrain barrel system: Drain the water from yourrain barrel by opening thespigot. A full barrel is muchtoo heavy to move – do notattempt! Allow the water todrain from the barrel; you14R AIN BARRELSexistingdownspoutoverflowhosemay need to tip the barrelsome to allow more waterout of the spigot beforemoving it. Connect a temporaryextension to the downspoutthat feeds the rain barrel.Position the extension todirect rainwater away fromthe house. If you have leftthe lower portion of thedownspout intact duringinstallation, reconnect to itwith the flexible elbow. Flip the barrel over to drainany remaining stagnantwater and decaying material,e.g. leaves, dirt, etc. Rinse out the inside of thebarrel and remove anysediment by rinsing witha hose or light pressurewasher. Clean the inside of the barrelwith a hard-bristled brushand a mixture of waterand a few drops of milddishwashing detergent. Let the rain barrel dry. Inspect the rain barrel forany cracks or holes. Patchany damage using anadhesive drywall patch andwaterproofing sealant. Store the rain barrel in a drylocation while temperaturesare at or below freezing.spigotraisedbaseR AIN BARRELS15
CHAPTER 3Rain Gardens andBioswalesRain gardens are vegetated depressions (small basins) that capturestormwater, allowing it to soak into the ground. They can typically be placedat a low point in your yard. Stormwater can be conveyed to a rain gardenfrom downspouts or paved areas via pipes or vegetated swales (bioswales).Bioswales are trenches lined with vegetation that direct water to a differentlocation, treating the water along the way. Rain gardens are typically designedto drain ponding water within 24 hours and are often planted with nativevegetation that can survive inundation for that length of time.Rain gardens remove pollutants as water filters through the soil to replenishthe groundwater. The native plants in them attract beneficial insects andpollinators and provide beautiful flower displays throughout the growing season.20INTRODUCTION17
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSTOOLS & MATERIALSYou’ll need the following tools and materials: String level and stakes Rototiller (optional) Garden trowel for planting Shovel W heelbarrow for moving soiland mulch Pitchfork for mulching Hard rakeSTEP 1Pick a location for yourrain gardenWhen selecting a site for yourrain garden or bioswale, use thefollowing considerations: Choose a site at least 10feet away from your house,garage, and outbuildings,and at least 5 feet from yourproperty line. Choose a full or partly sunnysite on a relatively level areathat is downhill from thewater source. Avoid septic fields, wells,buried utility lines or areasunder large trees. Make sure water can get to astorm drain if the rain gardenoverflows.118STEP 2Test the soilA rain garden needs to absorbstormwater within 48 hoursor plants will not surviveand mosquitoes may breed.A simple way to test theinfiltration rate of your soil isto dig an 18-inch deep holeand fill it with water.The soil is good for a raingarden if the water disappearswithin 48 hours. If the soil is dryand water disappears rapidly, fillthe hole with water 3 times insuccession and use the third fillas the test. Scoop shovel for mulchingSTEP 3Size your rain gardenConsider the following whendetermining how large your raingarden will be: Generally, a rain gardenshould be about one-thirdthe size of a contributingimpervious surface such asa roof. Calculate how muchroof area drains to eachdownspout feeding your raingarden and divide this areaby 3 to determine the area ofyour rain garden. A rain garden that is between100 and 300 square feet willbe large enough to allowfor plant variety, but smallenough to be affordable andeasy to build. A smaller raingarden will
While there are myriad ways to be a Green Neighbor—some actions can be as simple as not over-fertilizing your lawn and garden, washing and maintaining your vehicles properly, or planting a native tree—this guide focuses on stormwater management projects that you can build or install on your property.
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Le genou de Lucy. Odile Jacob. 1999. Coppens Y. Pré-textes. L’homme préhistorique en morceaux. Eds Odile Jacob. 2011. Costentin J., Delaveau P. Café, thé, chocolat, les bons effets sur le cerveau et pour le corps. Editions Odile Jacob. 2010. Crawford M., Marsh D. The driving force : food in human evolution and the future.
Le genou de Lucy. Odile Jacob. 1999. Coppens Y. Pré-textes. L’homme préhistorique en morceaux. Eds Odile Jacob. 2011. Costentin J., Delaveau P. Café, thé, chocolat, les bons effets sur le cerveau et pour le corps. Editions Odile Jacob. 2010. 3 Crawford M., Marsh D. The driving force : food in human evolution and the future.
