RUFFLE SLEEVE TOP ISSUE 37 - Peppermint Magazine
R U F F L E S L E E V E TO PSKILL LEVELISSUE 37
In the Folds patterns are designed to inspire and encourageCONTENTSABOUT IN THE FOLDSPAT T E R N S3GARMENT OVERVIEW4ABOUTIN THEFOLDSPAT T E R N S(INCLUDING FABRIC SUGGESTIONS ANDNOTIONS)modern makers to create garments that are beautiful both insideand out. Through selected techniques and construction details,In the Folds aims to encourage thought-provoking andmemorable making experiences - helping you enjoy each stitch inthe process.Techniques may differ slightly to the home sewing methods youare used to, but in some cases industrial finishes will give you thecleanest and most professional finish.SIZING GARMENTMEASUREMENTS5Seam allowances are marked on each pattern piece and detailedin each step.( I N C LU D I N G FA B R I C R E Q U I R E M E N TS )P R I N T I N G T H E PAT T E R N6PRINTING PLAN7You will notice that in some cases the seam allowances meet eachother at different angles at the end of the seam. This is so thatwhen you press the seam allowances open the seams will sit flush8SUGGESTED CUTTING PLAN9INSTRUCTIONSG LO S S A RYREFLECTION102122In the Folds patterns are designed to include thoughtfuldetails and interesting techniques so that you can enjoy theprocess of making the garment as much as the end result.If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can betterour skills, appreciate the amazing things we can do withour hands, understand the process more fully and creategarments that will be worn, loved and cared for long intothe future.We’re super excited to bring you these patterns in partnership with the lovely people atThe Fabric Store. With a passion for all things sewing, they stock an incredible range offabrics – think quality linen, silk, cotton, merino and even leather – at their Sydney,Melbourne, Brisbane and New Zealand stores, as well as a small selection online.2THE ENVIRONMENTC U T T I N G YO U R FA B R I CS LOW S E W I N Gwith the edges and will help you get a really clean finish.Consider using fabricfrom your stash beforegoing to buy somethingnew. I dare you.You might be surprisedby what you find there.Before selecting yourfabric, really think abouthow this garment will fitWe'd love to see your work in progress. Find us oninto your wardrobe andInstagram @inthefolds and @peppermintmagazine and taghow you plan to care foryour photos with #peppermintsewingschoolit. Choose a fabric thatHappy sewing!fits the bill.3
SIZING GARMENT MEASUREMENTSGARMENT OVERVIEWN OT E S O N F I T T I N GWhen making The Ruffle Sleeve Top, use your high bust measurement to select yoursize and then your bust measurement to work out whether or not you need to do aHIGH BUSTBUSTSmall Bust Adjustment (SBA) or Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). This pattern is drafted fora B cup bust.WAISTThe pattern is nested so that you can grade between sizes if necessary. Simply printthe sizes you need and draw a diagonal line between the sizes to grade between them.HIPThe pattern is drafted for height of 170cm (5'7"), with the hem finishing close to thehigh hip (approximately in the position where mid-rise jeans would sit). If you preferyour shirts to hit lower on the hip, use the 'lengthen / shorten' lines on the pattern toThe Ruffle Sleeve Top is a simplewoven shirt with a v-neck, bustdarts, elbow length sleeve withruffle and a neck facing. It has aboxy fit and is the perfect piece totake you from day to evening.It slips over the head and thereforedoes not have a closure.The instructions guide you throughFA B R I C S U G G E S T I O N SG A R M E N T D E TA I L Slengthen the top.making the top with french seamsThe Ruffle Sleeve Top is compatible with arange of different fabrics. Consider using light tocotton, gauze or chambray. For a softer silhouette,HIGH BUSTconsider sateen, silk or viscose (rayon). Be carefulFULL BUSTif you are a beginner though, as these fabrics are alittle trickier to sew.WAISTHIPSofter fabrics will drape over the bust, whilestructured silhouette. If using a sheer fabric,the "E91cm36"96cm38"81cm32"104cm41"BODY �"N OT I O N S*Measurement from back neck to hem4 cm511/2"116cm451/2"139cm541/2"FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTSstiffer fabrics will create a more voluminous andconsider binding the neckline rather than usingfor a clean and professional finish.REQUIRED MEASUREMENTSmid-weight fabrics such as: linen, linen blends,Coordinating �"161cm63½"58cm22⅞"FA B R I C R E Q U I R E M E N T 2.4ydsI2.7m3yds2.3m2.55ydsJ2.7m3yds2.3m2.5yds5
PRINTING PLANP R I N T I N G T H E PAT T E R NPA P E R S I Z EThis pattern can be printed on both A4 or US letter-sized paper.1E1D1B1C1EWhen you have the scaling1Dyou can get it printed on full sheets (2 x A0) at your local copy shop.1CPRINT1BThere is also a full sized version included so that, if you’d prefer,1A1ATEST SQUARE1 2 3 4 5 61 inch x 1 inchin collaboration with5cm x 5cmR U F F L E S L E E V E TO PS E W I N G P AT T E R NFEEL FREE TO HACK THIS PATTERN,A DD TO THIS PATTERN, LOVE THIS PATTERNA ND TO MA KE IT OVER & OVERBUT P L EA SE REMEMBER THAT IT ’SFOR P ERSONA L USE ONLYHAPPY SEWING!CE m ily Hun d tP AT T E R N S I Z E K E Yright, print the remainder ofL AY E R SSIZE ASIZE BSIZE CSIZE DSIZE ESIZE FSIZE GSIZE Hthe pattern. Depending on the2E2DGRAINLINE12C2B3C2F2E3CCENTRE FRONT (PLACE ON FOLD)2A3A2D2F2CRUFFLE SLEEVE TOPCUT 1 ON FOLD3D3BBACK3BD O UB L E N OTC H3D7 8 9 10 11 12P AT T E R N S Y M B O L K E YNOTCHGRAINLINEneed to print all the pages.2Bin collaboration with3Asize/s you need, you may notonly the size/s you would like to print.2ACENTRE BACK (PLACE ON FOLD)This pattern has embedded layers. This means that you can selectSIZE ISIZE JWe’re super excited to bring you these patterns inpartnership with the lovely people at The Fabric Store.With a passion for all things sewing, they stock anincredible range of fabrics – think quality linen, silk,cotton, merino and even leather – at their Sydney,Melbourne, Brisbane and New Zealand stores, as wellas a small selection online.DRILL HOLEsaves on ink (and paper in some cases).p. 7.2C UT T I N G L I N EST I TC H L I N EG R AI N L I N EFRONTThere is a printing plan onCUT 1 ON FOLDLayers make it much less confusing to cut out the pattern, and alsoB UT TO N H O L EP L AC E PAT T E R N O N FO L DRUFFLE SLEEVE TOPL E N G T H E N / S H O RT E N L I N EP L E A S E N OT E :S E A M A L LO WA N C E S A R E I N C L U D E DAND ARE 1.2cm (½”) UNLESSO T H E R W I S E S T AT E Din collaboration withSHARE YOUR MAKES5C5A4A5D5B6ECUT 1 ON FOLDGRAINLINE6D6F5CENTRE FRONT(PLACE ON FOLD)5E7BI47ACUT 1 PAIR6ARUFFLE6Bin collaboration with6CRUFFLE SLEEVE TOP6C6D6B6EA B C DE F G HFRONT FACING6A6FJin collaboration withRUFFLE SLEEVE TOP7B19 20 21 22 23 247D7E8F6CUT 1 ON FOLDBACK FACING9E26 27 28in collaboration withJ25RUFFLE SLEEVE TOPa reference, if required.8E9Dsquare measures 5cm x 5cm, or the smaller one measures 1in x 1in.F E DC B AUse the printing plan on p. 7 as8DH GPrint only Page 1 of the pattern, and check that the large testIetc, and tape or glue in place.8A1A matches up to 1A, 2A with 2Aoff page scaling.’8AAB CDE F G H I J8Dpages). Align the circles so thatsettings and select ‘actual size’ or set page scaling to ‘none’ or ‘turnCUT 1 PAIRJ I H G F EDC B A8Eneeds to be printed at its true scale. To do this, go into your print3SLEEVE8Fof sides consistent betweenRUFFLE SLEEVE TOP9Ewill need to check the scaling settings on your printer. The patternin collaboration with7Eshort side (keep your choiceGRAINLINE9DOpen the pattern in Adobe Reader. Before printing the file, you7Dpage - one long side and one7CCut around the border of each7CGRAINLINESCALINGASSEMBLE4F13 14 15 16 17 187Ainstall Adobe Reader to access this feature.Please note : The ‘PATTERN INFO’ layer needs tobe on for all sizes.4Beach page will be printed.4Cnot available on Preview (Mac). You will need to4E4Dthis will ensure the border of4D4E"Auto portrait / landscape" -Please note, at the time of publishing, layers are4C4Fthe print orientation is set to(by clicking) all the layers you do not need.4B5Ean eye next to each layer in the pattern. Turn off4A5Dfrom Adobe Reader, make sure5C‘layers’ option on the left hand side. There will be5BPlease note: When printingTag us@inthefolds@peppermintmagazine5AOpen the pattern in Adobe Reader and click on the#peppermintsewandtellGRAINLINECENTRE BACK (PLACE ON FOLD)It really needs to be precise, so if it is not quite right, you will needto go back and check your printer settings again.67
C U T T I N G YO U R FA B R I CSELVEDGESPIECES TO CUT:1 - Front - cut 1 on foldTake notes of any changes youmake to the pattern as you go. Thisright sides together, on a cutting table or other flat surface. Bringwill help you when you use thethe selvedges (woven edges of the fabric) together and smoothpattern again (there is a section forout any wrinkles. By folding the fabric in half, you will be able tothis on p. 22).cut two pieces at the same time. If you are using silk or a similar3 - Sleeve - cut 1 pair4 - Ruffle - cut 1 pairs5 - Front facing - cut 1 on foldgrainline of each pattern piece running exactly parallel to thefabric sandwiched between twoselvedge (use a tape measure to measure from each end of thelayers of fine paper (pinning andPlease note: If you are using a fabricgrainline, ensuring your pattern piece is on grain). Use the cuttingcutting through all three layers). Thiswith a directional print, make sureplans on p. 9 as a guide.will help keep the fabric on grain,that you will be left with a full pattern piece once cut.sewing machine.Use weights or pins to hold the pieces in place. Carefully cut out each piece. Be sure to transfer all pattern markings onto yourto the end.5all pattern pieces are placed theright way up.63SIZES A - F150cm / 60in fabric2Enjoy the process! It's not a race34To mark a notch, snip into the fabric 5-6mm (¼in). Mark drill4ALL SIZES115cm / 45in fabric1FOLDstitch in a contrasting thread (by hand).41fabric.holes with tailors chalk on the wrong side of the fabric or a single5FOLDand a nice sharp fine needle on your6piece in half and cut 2 on fold.FOLDwhile you are cutting. Use silk pins,the pattern piece with the fold of the fabric, so3*For 115cm (45in) wide fabric, foldsubstrate, consider cutting yourIf a pattern piece asks for ‘CUT 1 ON FOLD’ - align the fold line on16 - Back facing - cut 1 on foldTake your pattern pieces and lay them on your fabric, with theand ensure the fabric doesn’t move22FOLDTake your pre-washed fabric and fold it in half lengthways, with2 - Back - cut 1 on foldFOLD SELVEDGESfirst wash! Give your fabric a good press before cutting.TIPSSELVEDGESwhen washing your garment so it doesn’t shrink after itsSELVEDGESWash and dry your fabric. Use the method you intend to useSUGGESTED CUTTINGPLANS564SIZES G - K150cm / 60in fabric89
INSTRUCTIONSThese instructions guide you through makingthe Ruffle Sleeve Top with french seams,ILLUSTRATION KEY:FabricWrong SideFabricRight Sidewhich are most appropriate for light to mid-STEP 3weight fabrics. For heavier fabrics, constructTake the BACK [2] and staystitch neckline and armholesyour TOP with regular seams and finish withan overlocker or zig-zag stitch.2Seam allowances are noted in each step.Happy Sewing!ASSEMBLE THE BODYSTEP 42Take the FRONT [1] and staystitch the neckline andPress the seam allowances open.armholes.1(so it remains hidden inside the seam allowance when the1seam with a french seam.2with wrong sides together. Stitch with a 6mm (¼in)notches and folding towards the drill hole. Press in place.seam allowance.Pin from the notches to 1.2cm (½in) beyond the drill hole.ruler and erasable fabric pen so that you have a guidelinewhen sewing. Stitch down the dart to the point beyondSTEP 5Pin the FRONT [1] and BACK [2] together at the side seamsFold each dart (right sides together), by matching theIf you would like, you can draw in the stitch line with athe instructions guide you to stitch this seam in thebinding, for example), you may choose to sew the shoulder6mm (¼in) from the raw edge will suffice.1*As the shoulder seams will be enclosed inside the facing,standard way. If you choose to omit the facing (for biasgarment is finished), so in this case approximatelySTEP 2seams with right sides together* and pin. Stitch seam witha 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance.STEP 1Staystitching should lie inside the permanent stitch lineTake FRONT [1] and BACK [2]pieces and align shoulder1Press seam allowance to one side, before trimming downthe seam allowance by about half (2-3mm).the drill hole (this way the drill hole will remain hiddeninside the dart).1011
26STEP 6With the facing inside out, turn up the bottom edge byTurn the top inside out and press the side seams flat. Pinthe side seams again, this time enclosing the raw edges1inside the new seams. Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seamSTEP 95allowance. Press seam allowances towards the back of6mm (¼in) and carefully stitch in place. You can simply dothis with your finger as you sew, rather than pressing andpinning.the top.AT TA C H FA C I N G6Turn the edge by another 6mm (¼in) and carefully press.Pin in place and stitch along the original stitch line toSTEP 76STEP 10Take the FRONT and BACK FACING pieces [5 6] and pintogether at the shoulder seams, with right sides together.5complete the edge.You don't need to sew the shoulder seams with french5seams as they will remain hidden inside the facing when itis attached to the top.Stitch with a 1.2cm (½in) seam allowance and pressseams open.66655STEP 115With the body of the top right side out, pin the facing tothe neckline, matching up notches and seam lines.Stitch with a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance.1STEP 8Sew FRONT and BACK FACINGS [5 6] together at theside seams, using a french seam. Press seam allowancestowards the front.1213
AT TA C H S L E E V E S65STEP 12Grade the seam allowance - particularly focusing on theSTEP 15point at the centre front. Clip into the seam allowanceSet the body of the top aside for a moment and take thearound the curve of the back neck.SLEEVE [3] pieces. Sew underseam with a french seam, as13demonstrated in previous steps.Press seam allowance towards the front of the sleeve.STEP 16When it comes to setting in sleeves, the sleeve will always651have a bit more ease in the sleeve cap than what is inSTEP 133the armhole (the length of the sleeve cap will be slightlylonger than the sum of the front and back armholelengths). This will create some fullness in the top of theUse your finger to press the seam allowance towards thesleeve to account for your shoulder and the movementfacing and understitch around the neckline (this will helprequired in this area.the facing remain on the inside of the top).With your machine on it’s longest stitch length, make aTurn the facing to the inside of the top and give it a goodline of stitching along the sleeve cap - between the frontpress.and back armhole notches - leave the threads long at eachend and don't backstitch to start or finish.365STEP 14Pin the facing to the armholes before staystitching inSTEP 17Carefully pull one of the threads to slightly pull in thesleeve cap, allowing it to curve in nicely, but not makinggathers.place, matching the notches and side seams.11415
36STEP 21STEP 18Turn your stitch length back up and stitch around the topWith wrong sides together, pin the SLEEVE [3] into thearmhole. Use the notches to check that you are putting4the correct sleeve in the correct armhole. With the help ofyour stitches made in the previous step, you can ease theof the RUFFLE [4] (starting and finishing close to the seam,but not stitching over it) within the seam allowance. Thetop of the RUFFLE [4] is the side with the notches.sleeve so that it fits nicely into the armhole.1Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance - rememberingto turn your stitch back down. Repeat for the other sleeve.STEP 22Carefully pull on one of the threads to gather the4235STEP 19Check that there is no puckering from the right side beforetrimming down the seam allowance by about 2-3mm and1may choose to clip into the curve in the seam allowanceAT TA C H R U F F L E5STEP 20to form a loop - using a french seam. Press the seamallowance to one side.16421Take the RUFFLE [13] pieces and join the short ends43completing the french seam. As this seam is curved, youto help you get a nice smooth seam.4RUFFLE [4].STEP 23With the top inside out, pin the wrong side of theRUFFLE [4] to the bottom of the SLEEVE [3] using thenotches to help you distribute the gathers evenly.Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.17
324STEP 26Turn the hem a second time to enclose the raw edge51inside the rolled hem. Press and pin, before stitching onthe original stitch line.STEP 24:Carefully trim down the seam allowance by 2-3mm (⅛in).Press seam allowance up.2513HEM4STEP 25Turn RUFFLE [4] to the inside of the SLEEVE [3] and pressseam flat. Pin in place - enclosing the raw edge inside thefrench seam. Stitch with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.Press seam allowances towards the SLEEVE [3].STEP 25Finish sleeve hem by turning up the bottom edge by5mm (¼in) and carefully stitching in place. You can simplydo this with your finger as you sew, rather than pressingSTEP 27Repeat for the hem, this time though turning up by1cm (⅜in) each time.Give the top a good press.and pinning.1819
G LO S S A RYAT TA C H FA C I N GSTEP 28BASTEGRADE SEAM ALLOWANCESTRIMSew temporary stitches to holdMinimise bulk by trimming downCut back a seam allowance topieces in place before sewingraw edges in varying widths. Trimmake a seam easier to managepermanently. Basting can bedown the seam allowance thator less bulky.done by hand or machine (on awill sit closest to the body closelong stitch length). Consider usingto the stitch line. Trim the nexta contrast thread when bastinglayer, leaving a slightly wider seamto make stitches easier toallowance than the first, and so onremove later.until all layers are trimmed back.CLIPNOTCHSnip into the seam allowanceA notch is a small cut in the fabric(perpendicular to the raw edge)that helps guide you while you aregetting close to the stitch line, tosewing. It can be used to indicatehelp open up curved seams orseam allowance, dart arms, thecorners.location of design details or indicateThe space between the stitch lineand the raw edge of the fabric.Seam allowances are included inthis pattern and are noted on thepattern pieces and throughout theinstructions.STAY STITCHStaystitching is a line of stitchingkey points on the pattern (likeinside the permanent stitch line (soSecure the facing by taking a hand needle and threadDRILL HOLEthe centre front or centre back).it remains hidden inside the seamand stitching the side seam of the facing to the seamDrill holes are small holes markedNotches are also used to indicateallowances) that is used to reinforceallowance of the top with a few discreet hand stitches.on a pattern, often used to indicatebalance points (points on yourcurved and bias cut seams, so thata dart point or other design feature,pattern that help you sew the rightthey do not stretch or distort duringsuch as the location of patchpieces together, as wel
8 9 PIECES TO CUT: 1 - Front - cut 1 on fold 2 - Back - cut 1 on fold 3 - Sleeve - cut 1 pair 4 - Ruffle - cut 1 pairs 5 - Front facing - cut 1 on fold
Use a 3.5 mm stereo TRS (tip/ring/sleeve) cable to connect the audio source to the auxiliary audio input on the side of the VLH 302 microphone (see the diagram below for connector wiring). Sleeve (S) Ring (R) Tip (T) Tip Sleeve(s) Ring Ring Tip Sleeve Sleeve Unbalanced Input TRS Connector RCA Connector Left Right Left Right Balanced Input or Output
1073414-X2-A 8 Kohler Co. 3) Pull the sleeve and spring out of the jet body. 4) Slide the spring off the sleeve. Note the sleeve may be jammed in place by debris and long nosed pliers may be needed to remove it. Jet Body Sleeve 5) Clean out any hair or grime from inside the jet body. 6) Clean off any hair or grime from the sleeve, spring, eyeball
MULTI-BALL FRAC SLEEVE The Multi-Ball Frac Sleeve is a ball activated ported sleeve used to fracture formation intervals with Bakken Buster Open Hole Multi-Stage Stimulation System. Each Sleeve uses an incrementally sized ball seat that coincides with a specific diameter of ball that opens each individual sleeve. ball seats are designed to .
Peasant blouse with raglan sleeves. Long and short sleeve styles (see illustration). Man's or woman's Israeli or Dashiki shirt (see illustration). Man's Bicentennial costume. Excellent shirt. for Scandinavian or Scottish shirts, Scandin . avian pants. Woman's short or long dress, fitted bodice, puffed sleeve, gathered skirt with a ruffle.
the sleeve. - Posi on sleeve and l hole with concrete mix – For best results, do not fully ll the hole with concrete mix before posi oning the sleeve. Instead, ll base of hole with concrete mix, lower the ground sleeve into the hole, posi on it and then nish ling with concrete mix. - Top of
sleeve in place. If it is too tight for that, remove the sleeve, put the spring on then press the sleeve back in place. 9. Insert the assembly into the bore in the case until the plastic assembly sleeve contacts the bore. 10. Put the snap ring over the cap, and place the pry-bar with or without the block of wood
Unit - III 3. tapered ferrules. The fiber end separations are determined by sleeve length and guide rings. The below figure shows tapered sleeve fiber connectors In tapered sleeve or bi conical connector mechanism, a tapered sleeve is used to accommodate Optical Communication 4.
Coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) Situation Report – 94 HIGHLIGHTS The Global Outbreak Alert and Response Network (GOARN) has launched a GOARN COVID-19 Knowledge hub. The hub is designed as a central repository of quality public health information, guidance, tools and webinars which can be accessed freely at any point.
