Weaving Today Guide To Inkle Weaving: Free Inkle Loom .

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TMGuide to Inkle Weaving:Free Inkle Loom Patterns,Plans, and Projects F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for any or all pagesin this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

inkle-loom projectOriginally Published in Handwoven, March 2009sharon kerstenstructureWarp-faced plain weavewith pick-up.EquipmentInkle loom to accommodate at least a 4 ft warplength (this loom allows80"); smooth string orstrong sewing thread fortying heddles; popsiclesticks; kitchen laminatesamples to use as shuttles; small pick-up stick.YarnsWarp: #10 cotton crochetthread or 5/2 pearlcotton, 25 yd white and25 yd black (or DMCembroidery floss, 4 skeinslight, 4 skeins dark).Weft: same as light warp,about 8 yd.other suppliesSee list of supplies andmaterials for constructingthe inkle loom.Warp length34 ends alternating1 dark/1 light 80" long(this length will dependon the inkle loom).settsWarp: about 45 epi.Weft: about 13 ppi.DimensionsWeaving width: 3 4".Woven length: 26".Finished size: hatband3 4" 26" plus 5" braidedfringe at each end.2Guide to Inkle WeavingMake a loom and weavea hatband in two daysw it h o ut b re a k i ng t he b a nk !Here’s how to construct a loom, warp it, and weave a project allwithin a weekend. This lightweight, portable loom is suitable forsmall projects like hatbands and bookmarks. It can easily bedisassembled for travel when needed!To build this loom, you’ll need to gather afew basic handtools and take a trip toyour local hardware store or “big-box” homeimprovement center.M a k i n g t h e lo o mCut the CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) pipe into two 16" front pieces, two 21 2"back pieces, seven 6" cross pieces, three 5"pieces for castle uprights and heddle stringrod, six 11 2" pieces for joining T and Lconnectors, and one 7" shed rod. Push piecestogether as shown on page 3.For the tensioning device: Arrange on each24" threaded rod: 4" space, washer, 2 nuts, 9"space, 2 nuts, washer, and about a 10" space.The 4" space goes into the back arm; the 10"space into the castle assembly. (The washerskeep the nuts from sliding inside the Tconnector.) Snug the 2 nuts so they are fingertight only. Moving the two sets of nuts towardeach other loosens the tension, away fromeach other tightens the tension. (Place elasticsas in Photo a, page 4, to prevent the loom fromcoming apart when it is not warped.)Using a ruler, measure from washer towasher to check that both sides of the loomare the same length. The measurementsshould be within 1 8" of each other.What you’ll needTools Coping saw, hacksaw, miter box andsaw, or PVC pipe cutter (if available); utilityknife; not-your-sewing scissors; tape measureor ruler; pencil; slip-jaw pliers (to loosen anystuck pipes, if needed).Materials and other supplies One 10 ftlength 1 2" CPVC pipe (you can cut it in half totransport), ten 1 2" T connectors, six 1 2" Lconnectors, two 1 2" cap pieces, two 3 8" 24"threaded rods (20 threads/inch), 8 nuts to fitthreaded rod, 4 washers with bigger outsidediameter than ends of T connectors, transparent tape, 2 packages of 1 4" elastic cord. F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

ProjectcastleThis small,portable inkleloom can be madein a weekend!crosspieceshed rodback piecethreaded rodheddle rodshuttle fromlaminate samplecrosspiece3Guide to Inkle Weavingfront pieceAssembly order:Lay the CPVC pieces out in the positions shown.Push the CPVC connections together snugly. Ifyou lift the loom up and the connections separate,wrap the end of the pipe with transparent tape andreconnect. Do not use any glue to assemble theloom so that you can take the loom apart fortransport and reassemble it later. F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

1. le(Discard the extra black thread.)123Taping the ends on the bottomfront cross piece with 6" tails atstart and finish, wind a continuous warp of 34 ends holding 1black/1 white together and keeping a finger between them; donot cross threads as you wind.Weave in popsicle sticks (Photod), picking up the sheds by handand changing the black/whitealternate order to match Figure1. Slide sticks to bottom of loomframe, smoothing the threads.Discard the extra black threadand tie together end tails.Attach and secure the shed rod(Photo e). Push the lower sheddown. Insert popsicle sticks tokeep the shed down while youare working. Loosen the heddlerod from its elastic (Photo b)and place it about halfway between the end of the loom andab5Cut a shuttle from laminate sample (see page 3). Weave at least7" plain weave with popsiclesticks to preserve the fringe.Weave 1" plain weave withwhite weft (the heddle rod inthe down position lowers themostly light warp threads sothe mostly dark threads are ontop; the heddle rod releasedand the shed stick moved forward raises the mostly lightthreads). Hemstitch over thefirst 2 rows. Then weave thehatband following Figure 2.67endTo weave the pattern: Copyand enlarge the graph in Figure2 so you can read it easily anduse a marker to check off eachrow. Weave the pattern repeatfor about 25" or the length necessary for your use. The graphshows only warp threads 10–25(count them from the right);the others are controlled by thesheds and not the pick-upstick. The first few rows willlook strange the first timethrough. Stop for breaks onlybetween “S” motifs (it takes 10to 15 minutes to weave eachone). End with 1" plain weaveand hemstitch as at the beginning. Weave another 7" of popsicle sticks for fringe and thenweave the remaining warp forbookmarks or samples.pwD DD DD DD DDDDD DD DDDD DD DDD DD DD DD DD DD DDDDDDD DD DDDD DD DDD DD DD DD DD DD DDDDDDRemove the band from theloom. Divide the warp threadsinto two halves, then do a 3- or4-strand braid with each halfand secure with an overhandknot, matching all braids forlength and knot placement;trim ends evenly.repeat4the castle upright. Slip one endof each string heddle aroundthe heddle rod, pass the doubled string of the loop over onewarp thread in the lower shed,then pass the other end of theloop around the heddle rod(Photo f). Continue, takingthreads from the lower shed inorder and making sure youcatch only one thread at a time.Then carefully slide the heddlerod back to the bottom of thecastle and secure it with theelastics (Photo b).Tie 20 heddles (3 extra for repairs or other projects) aroundthe castle upright (Photo c) witha surgeon’s knot (a square knotwith two twists on the first half).2. Pick-uppatternD DD DDDD DD DDD DD DD DD DDDpwstartthread up in regularshed (heddle down)cthread up in regularshed using shed stickthread brought upwith pick-up stickDthread pushed downwith pick-up stickAssembly andwarpingefPhotos by Sharon Kerstend4Guide to Inkle Weavinga. Assembled frame and placement of elastics, b. the heddlerod, c. the heddles tied aroundcastle (the loom is weightedwith a large telephone book),d. sheds to straighten threadorder, e. the shed rod, f. theposition for heddle rod duringthreading. F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

Stars & StripesOriginally Published in Handwoven, March-April 2002A my A bbottMany thanks to our readers for sharingcreative patriotic fabric projects with us.After the tragic events of September 11th, I wanted to do something to help lift the spirits ofthe members of my teachers’ team. I decided to make patriotic pins. There werealready many pins of the crossed ribbonstyle being worn, but since I was planning to weave an inkle band for at leastfifteen pins, I knew I needed a style thatwould conserve band length. With thisin mind, I designed a bar-style pin.Using the basic principles of inkle design, I created a pattern of “stars” (a single thread of white between two threadsof blue) on one half of the band withstripes of red and white on the other.The weaving is simply a matter of alternating sheds.As I began to weave the band, I wasvery pleased with the stylized outcome.My colleagues, too, were pleased, and somany other teachers in my school haverequested pins that I have now madenearly ninety of them!Weaving the bandPROJECT at-a-glanceWeave structure for bandWarp order and lengthWarp-faced plain weave.41 ends, 2½ yd long for shaft loom,2 yd long for inkle loom.EquipmentInkle loom or 2- or 4-shaft loom (warpwidth is ¾"); 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle.Yarns5Warp and weft spacingWarp: 54 epi (4-5 in a 12-dent reed).Width in reed: ¾". Weft: 10 ppi.Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb),blue, 30 yd; natural, 35 yd; red, 38yd.Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb),blue, 14 yd.Notions and other materialsYarn sourcesTake-up5/2 pearl cotton is available from mostretailers.0% in width, 11% length. Amounts produce a band ¾" 55" (16–18 pins).Guide to Inkle WeavingScraps of chip board (a cardboardavailable at craft stores), heavy drawingpaper, craft glue, 16–18 one-inch pinbacks, hot glue gun.This is a very flexible project. It can be wovenin 5/2 pearl cotton, as given in Project at-aglance, but doubled 10/2 pearl cotton wouldwork as well. You can use any kind of loomto weave the band.Wind the warp and prepare the loom following Figure 1 and the directions in Projectat-a-glance. If you are using an inkle loom, youwill need only a 2-yard warp. For a shaft loom,wind a 2½-yd warp to allow for the additionalloom waste.Amy Abbott lives inTulsa, Oklahoma.When she isn’t weaving,spinning, knitting, orbeing a mom, she teacheselementary school art. F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

Inkle-Band PinsSince the warp in this warp-faced band isquite dense, if you are using a 4-shaft loom,thread 1-2-3-4 to spread the threads among all1. Warpcolororder5x3xblue12 22white1413155 red41Weave the fabric for theflag pins on an inkle loomor a shaft loom. The fabric isquick to weave and the pinsare easy to make. These pinsmake great gifts for guild orstudy group members—orfor other friends!the shafts. This will make the sheds easier toopen than they are when threads are crowdedon shafts 1 and 2.The blue and white “stars” form the upperpart of the pin. Although the weft doesn’tshow in the band, a blue weft is recommended so it won’t peek through at the topselvedge. Place the weft flat in the shed andkeep band width at an even ¾". Weave approximately 55" (the 11% take-up occurs onthe loom), remove from the loom, and press.Assembling the pinsTo assemble the pins, you’ll need the supplies listed in Project at-a-glance. For eachpin: Cut a piece of chip board 2" long anda tiny bit narrower than the width of yourwoven band. Cut a piece of band 3" long.With the band lying on the work surfacewrong side up, spread the craft glue on thepiece of chip board and carefully center thechip board on the band. Let the glue dry fora minute.Next, apply a bead of glue to each end ofthe band (this can get a little messy) and foldthe ends to the back of the pin. Squish theends around a little and coax the raw edgesin so they can’t be seen from the front. Allowglue to dry completely. I sandwiched my pinsbetween two layers of waxed paper and driedthem under heavy books. Cut heavy drawingpaper a little smaller than each pin and glueit to the back, covering the raw fabric edges.Allow to dry completely. With hot glue, attach a pin back horizontally to the back ofeach pin near the top edge.6Guide to Inkle Weaving F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

inkle-loom ProjectOriginally Published in Handwoven, September-October 2008christi eales ehlerstructureWarp-faced plain weave.EquipmentBands, bands, bands,and more bands!fo r b e lts, b o o k m a r ks , st r a p s , ha nd l es , a nd tr imsin colors inspired by Guatemalan jaspe clothInkle loom, belt shuttle.YarnsWarp for apron straps: 10/2pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb, UKI), Navy, Silver, DarkSierra, Purple Passion,Yellow, and Cobalt.Warp for belt (secondband from left in the photoon this page): 5/2 pearlcotton (2,100 yd/lb, UKI),Cobalt, Black, Flaxon, Bali,Garnet, Deep Lilac, Hunter, and Gold.Weft for apron straps,10/2 pearl cotton, Navy.Weft for belt: 5/2 pearlcotton, Cobalt.Warp length63 ends 116" long forapron straps, 72 ends 88"long for belt.settsWarp for apron straps:about 70 epi. Warp forbelt: about 52 epi.Weft for apron straps: 13ppi. Weft for belt: 10 ppi.DimensionsFinished sizes: 7 8" 94"for apron straps;13 8" 68" for belt.7Guide to Inkle WeavingJaspe is the Guatemalan term for ikat. These inkle-woven bandstake advantage of the unique design principles of Guatemalanjaspe fabrics as well as their rich and glorious rainbows of colors.My daughter can see the speedometer fromher aisle seat. “It’s reading zero,” shereports. That makes us laugh, but as we hurtlearound another sharp curve, I offer a silentaddition to the religious petitions adorning thedashboard—may diós protect not just this busdriver but all the passengers, too!It’s Tuesday, market day in Salcajá, a majorweaving center in the western highlands ofGuatemala. That’s where we’re headed, bumpingover dusty roads in a retired U.S. school busturned public transport, squashed three to a seatwith a lot of local folks who share our destination.We’ve come to Quetzaltenango, Guatemala,to study Spanish, and I’ve made it a point towork textiles into my conversational practice atthe language school. Salcajá is the place mytutor told me to look for a kind of cloth I’d beenadmiring: jaspe. Because jaspe is popular forthe traditional skirts—called corte—worn dailyby indigenous Mayan women, the best qualityfabric is found where the Guatemalans shop,not in tourist markets.Our trip inspired a lifetime of weavingideas—these bands are just the beginning. F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

ProjectInkle-woven bands and belts makeideal projects for experimenting with color.8Guide to Inkle Weaving F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

1a. Warp color order for apron straps2a. Warp color order for belt (second band from left, page 7)422Cobalt (C)422Yellow (Y)844Purple Passion (P)422Dark Sierra (D)71111111Silver (S)222224224222222 Navy (N)36 26322844104241042410424811111111811111111416 444721b. Threading for apron strapsPSNDNNPNYNCNNSNheddle NNN heddleopenGold (G)Hunter (H)Deep Lilac (L)Garnet (R)Bali (B)Flaxon (F)Black (K)Cobalt (C)2b. Threading for belt2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2xheddle C K B RLHFCBLGRCFHLRBKCopenCFBRLH KCBLGRCK HLRBFCS* center thread12Warp an inkle loom under moderate tension following the color andthreading order for apron straps orbelt using the heddle method youprefer. I like to use double-loopheddles (see Inkle-Loom Tips),placing them as I wind on eachpair of warp threads. Note that thespecific required yardage is notgiven for each yarn since theamounts are small and the exactyardage will depend on the potential warp length of your inkle loom.Note also that you can weavethese pieces on a floor loom—simply remove the reed, thread forplain weave, and use the belt shuttle as a beater.Wind a belt shuttle with the weftyarn and weave the band in plainweave. Use the beveled edge of theshuttle to beat after changing sheds.For a smooth selvedge, hold theweft loop with your non-shuttlehand during each pick, applying asmall amount of tension until theweft is pulled all the way through34the shed. Then tug it firmly. Checkweaving width often with a ruler orseam gauge. To maintain a consistent beat, loosen the tension slightly after every inch or two of weaving.Cut the warp threads close to theend of the warp, reserving loomwaste for fringe, if desired. Washwith mild soap in warm water witha cool rinse. Roll in a towel to blotexcess water, and dry by air or machine, removing before completely dry. Machine zigzag or serge theraw ends of the band when cuttingit into segments.Design Ideas from Jaspe ClothFirst choose a solid dark background color.Next, select several different contrastingcolors of similar value for narrow stripesand a light color for the dashes to suggestthe jaspe (ikat) effects.For stripes and dashes: Start with a designunit of 2 warp ends for each colored stripeand 1 end for each dash. Set every stripe ordash off by at least 2 ends of the background color. Always check stripe color andproportion with a yarn wrap.Sew apron straps onto an apron asdesired. I copied a favorite apron tomake a pattern to use with thejaspe fabric that inspired the strapdesign. For the belt, I sewed twoD-rings by hand to one end and finished the other end with a 3" twisted fringe. You can use these bandsfor bookmarks or straps for totes —or how about handwoven basketstraps?Inkle-Loom TipsRead inkle threading drafts from left toright since the loom is threaded fromthe base of the peg outward.To determine the maximum yardageyou can produce on your inkle loom:Photos by christi eales ehler1. Measure the warping path.2. Subtract 12" for the portion of warpthat cannot be woven (loom waste).3. The maximum yardage is 90% ofthe measurement you calculated inStep 2 (multiply by .9).9Guide to Inkle Weaving F W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F W Media grants permission for anyor all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com

Pincushion and strapsstructureWarp-faced plain weave.EquipmentInkle loom with pegs at least5" long; 75 string heddles (5heddles for trim); 2 belt shuttles; large-eyed sewing needle.YarnsWarp: 5/2 pearl cotton(2,100 yd/lb, Halcyon Yarn),Lipstick, 85 yd; Melon, 75yd; Soldier Blue, 123 yd;Ruby, 95 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearlcotton, Lipstick, 40 yd.Other Supplies 4 yd lightweight fusibleinterfacing; polyfill stuffing.1inkle-loom projectOriginally Published in Handwoven, November-December 2008amy abbottA pincushion necklacefor you or your looma w id e in k l e-wov en b a nd i s d i v i d ed i nto t won arrow e r b a nds to m a k e ha ndy ha ng i ng str a p s .The unique split straps and the tubular inkle-woven trim make thisproject an interesting departure from traditional inkle bands.Warp length1. Warpcolororder151 ends 2 2 yd long for twopincushions (allows 18" forfringe, 7" for take-up, 15" forloom waste and sampling).12. ThreadingheddleopensettsWarp: 60 epi. Weft: 10 ppi.DimensionsWeaving width: 2 1 2".Woven length: 25" eachpincushion and straps.Finished size: 2 1 2" 3"each pincushion with straps1 1 4" 16 1 2" and 5" fringeend of straps.Tubular trim12structureTubular plain weave.YarnsWarp and weft: 5/2 pearlcotton, Lipstick, 17 yd.Warp length11 ends 1 1 2 yd long (4" takeup, 14" loom waste).settsWeft: 8–10 ppi.Dimensions 8" 1 yd.310Guide to Inkle Weaving33x 5xRubySoldier 1Because inkle looms are warped from left to right, read these drafts from left to right.3x4xFor the pincushions and straps: Thread aninkle loom with 151 ends 2 1 2 yd long followingFigures 1 and 2. (Attach the heddles as youwarp or after winding every inch or so, since itcan be difficult to attach them to such a wide,dense warp after it is completely wound.)Sample first to establish width and beat (a wideband requires a very firm beat). Weave 7" forthe first pincushion. To weave the straps, dividethe warp in half (75 and 76 threads). Bind onehalf with a bit of string to keep the halves separate (photo a) and begin weaving the other half.When it’s time to advance the warp, unwrap theother half and wea

Weaving width: 3 4". Woven length: 26". . push the cpvc connections together snugly. if you lift the loom up and the connections separate, wrap the end of the pipe with transparent tape and reconnect. do not use any glue to assemble the loom so that you can take the loom apart for

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