Off The Beaten Path To Places Known And Unknown

Neo-Gothic Gate and Governor’s Summer Palace(Místodržitelský letohrádek)14An impressive, romantic mansion towers behind the Neo-Gothicentrance gate at the upper end of Stromovka. The yellow façade, inEnglish Gothic Revival style, dates back to the early 19 th century, afterthe game park opened to the public in 1804. The building’s history,however, extends back to the 15th century; originally a hunting redoubt,it was gradually transformed into its current form, and only theprismatic tower remained. The building is unfortunately inaccessible;its terrace, however, is worth a look – from it, you get a beautiful viewof Stromovka, Troja, and the Vltava River valley.ordered the preserve as well as the now-non-existent lake to beenlarged.17Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola)An unassuming doorway marks the end of a 1,100m long water tunnelbuilt in the late 16th century by order of Emperor Rudolf II. Water flowedthrough it, powered only by gravity, from the Vltava River near Old Townto the pond in Stromovka. This unique technical achievement, ovoid inshape, was bored under Letná Hill at a depth of about 45 m.18Former Šlechta RestaurantThe original 17 th -century Baroque summer palace was a formalmansion and even witnessed the imperial coronation celebration ofFranz I. A restaurant has operated in the historical space since the1920s. This popular destination is currently being renovated and isscheduled to reopen in 2020.19FishpondsA kind of “island” was created in the middle of the original “Rudolfine”lake, which later became the only reminder of this former large bodyof water. Today it’s called Oak Knoll, and thanks to the new lake thatwas built in 2016, its banks are once again largely surrounded by water.Governor’s Summer PalaceIn the right-hand corner of the terrace, you’ll find a unique sundialdating back to11698. Shaped like a globe, it has a moving metalpointer and a red marble surface marked with the tropic lines andtimes. To determine the current time, aim the arrow at the sun andmove the pointer so that it casts the smallest shadow (the sameheight as the pointer). Did it work?Mecseryho silnice / Road (named after former Prague GovernorKarl Mecsery de Tsoor, who had it built in 1861)Former tram depot15From 1898 to 1937, a small electric tram depot operated at the RoyalGame Preserve. Part of the building’s walls was preserved during amodern renovation into the Vozovna Stromovka restaurant.Stromovka 17 Rudolf’s Water Tunnel (Rudolfova štola)Šlechta Restaurant 19 fishponds161816StromovkaThe Royal Game Preserve (now Stromovka) was founded by CzechKing Přemysl Otakar II in the 13th century as a fenced hunting preserve.The complex has undergone many changes over the centuries, themost significant of which took place in the 16th century, when Rudolf II8FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJAOak Knoll in the StromovkaThe Royal Game Preserve was closed to the public until the early19 th century – commoners were allowed to enter only on Easter.This changed in 1804 with an imperial decree by Franz I, whichopened the preserve to the public.Za Elektrárnou St footbridge to Imperial Island (Císařský ostrov)ferry (year-round) Povltavská St U Trojského zámku St.20 Zoo (Zoologická zahrada) jp If you’ve got enough energy and want to extend your walk, werecommend visiting the Zoo (w zoopraha.cz), Troja Chateau(w ghmp.cz), or the Botanical Gardens (w botanicka.cz). Both theZoo and the Botanical Gardens are located on hills which offerimpressive views of the city.FRO M B U B E N EČ TO TROJA9

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Strossmayerovo Square, p. 1424kmHolešoviceA District Reborn12H O LE ŠOVI C EThis route is ideal for those who like to get enchantedby the raw charm of a modern city and the poetry of oldindustrial complexes. We’ll take you through one of themost exciting and rapidly transforming Prague districts.Holešovice was a former centre of manufacturingand business – here you’ll find distinctive factorycomplexes from the early 20th century remain, a formerslaughterhouse, and docks. The factories no longerserve their original purpose, and many have beenrenovated, finding new lives as apartments, offices, andstudios for young creatives, designers, and architects.Holešovice offers delightful surprises with its plethoraof quirky cafés and bistros, alternative cultural spaces,and design shops. In short, it’s an area where creativityand innovation await you around every corner.H O LE ŠOVI C E13

Route Description1 Veletržní palác k (more information about the building on pageHeřmanova St.34)Řezáčovo náměstí/Square w farmarsketrziste.cz2This small square squeezed between residential buildings is notonly an excellent place to rest for a bit, but it‘s also a place whereall kinds of events take place, including a popular farmers’ marketon Saturday mornings, as well as pop-up stores with contemporarydesign, sustainable and slow fashion.Farského St.undergoing rapid changes. You’ll find all kinds of things here: Hall 22is the home of the largest produce market in Prague, as well as shopsand stands with a variety of goods and groceries. Outside you’ll findstalls with various types of street food. The complex has severalrestaurants – of note are the highly-rated Vietnamese restaurantTrang An and the glam Asian fusion restaurant SaSaZu. Other buildingshouse the modern art gallery Trafo Gallery and Jatka78, a theatre andart space that focuses primarily on new circus and progressive theatre.Komunardů St.6Komunardů St. - U Průhonu St.w husiteholesovice.czThis imposing seven-story building for the Czechoslovak HussiteChurch was completed in 1937. In addition to its unmistakable towerwith chalice, there’s a marble-lined chapel and one of the largestcolumbariums (vaults for cinerary urns) in Europe, spread over twounderground floors.44Vnitroblock w vnitroblock.czA popular location – this imposing industrial space is today a favouritemeeting place over a cup of coffee as well as a multifunctional spacefor artistic or creatively oriented events.Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor)3Tusarova StStrossmayerovo náměstí/SquareHolešovice Town Brewery (Holešovický měšťanskýpivovar)7The opening of this brewery in the late 19 th century led to the ruin ofmany smaller breweries. Many Praguers have tasted the local brew,as it was brewed here under the name „Měsťan” until 1998. Today, it’sa modern office complex combining Romanticism with Renaissanceand Gothic elements.Strossmayerovo náměstí/SquareA busy transportation node and symbol of Holešovice, the east side ofwhich is dominated by the Neo-Gothic Church of St Anthony of Paduadating back to the early 20 th century. Its two towers were modelledafter those of Týn Cathedral on Old Town Square. A unique nativityscene is stored here, with figures dressed in native costumes ofvarious Slavic nations.Holešovice Town BreweryVnitroblock (photo Vojtěch Tesárek)Antonínská St.nábřeží/Riverbank5nábřeží Kapitána Jaroše/RiverbankBubenskéPrague Market (Pražská tržnice) w prazska-trznice.czFor nearly 100 years, this huge complex with Art Nouveau and NeoRenaissance elements functioned as a slaughterhouse, but today it’s14H O LE ŠOVI C ENa Maninách St.Jankovcova St.U Uranie St.U Parního mlýna St.8 The former steam mill on Jankovcova St. is another excellentexample of a sensitive transformation of a historical building into amodern office complex. The mill, built in 1911, was the first automatedflour mill in Prague, capable of grinding 200 tonnes of grain daily.Today the complex is a mix of designer offices for both multinationalcorporations and small start-ups.H O LE ŠOVI C E15

Holešovice DocksJankovcova St.9V Přístavu St.Holešovice Docks, Prague MarinaThe Holešovice docks, an important technical monument, is the onlyport in Prague which directly connects boat transport with rail androad. It’s definitely seen better days but remains worthy of a visit. Theoriginal buildings at the dock are in Art Nouveau style. The contrastbetween the rusting boats and the modern Prague Marina luxuryapartment complex creates a memorable atmosphere.16H O LE ŠOVI C EJankovcova St.10OgilvyOriginally the Prague Bakery and Soda Water Company, founded byFerdinand Zátka, the building became the home of one of the largestadvertising agencies in the world in 2003. In 2012, the building’sfaçade was redecorated in red and white battleship camouflage – acreative inspiration from the local nautical history.H O LE ŠOVI C E17

Přívozní St.11U Uranie StKomunardů St.Poupětova St.DOX Center for Contemporary Art w dox.czThe DOX Center was one of the pioneering projects that kicked off thetransformation of Holešovice from an industrial to a creative district.The building is a rebuilt factory. Viewed from the street, the 42m-longwooden construction – the Gulliver airship – on the rooftop terrace iseye-catching; it’s used primarily for literary events. DOX prides itselfon its independence and active contacts with the international artworld; it focuses primarily on art projects that reflect current socialissues.Osadní St.Ortenovo náměstí/Square kp At the intersection of Jankovcova and Plynární streets, you’ll findthe legendary Cross Club and café.12 Cross Club w crossclub.cz is a salute to Holešovice’sindustrial character. Steampunk aesthetic, steel, and moving bolts,screws, and wheels form not only the essence of the outdoor spacebut also that of the cellar interiors of the renowned music club.DOX18H O LE ŠOVI C EH O LE ŠOVI C E19

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King George of Poděbrady Square withChurch of the Most Sacred Heart p. 2534kmFromVinohradyto ŽižkovSearching forBohemian Prague22F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOVŽižkov is one of the most iconic Prague neighbourhoodsoutside of the historical centre. In the past, its mostlyworking-class population, lively pubs and cabarets, andhilly terrain under Vítkov Hill together cast an irresistiblespell under which many an aspiring artist fell.Žižkov was home to two famous Jaroslavs – Hašek,author of the world-famous humorous novel The FatefulAdventures of the Good Soldier Švejk During the WorldWar, and Seifert, a poet who is the sole Czech Nobellaureate for literature. Today Žižkov is undergoing rapidchanges, but its heart remains purely bohemian.The walk will take you first to the Vinohrady district,which gets its name from real vineyards that were laidout on the hillsides here during the Middle Ages. Overtime the grapevines were slowly replaced by buildings.In today’s Vinohrady, you‘ll find beautifully decoratedArt Nouveau and Historicist buildings alongside austereModernism in unusual colours and shapes. This windingroute takes you through the streets of Žižkov leadingto the TV transmission tower, a modern symbol of thisexciting district. Rest and refresh yourself at one of themany local pubs that the district is known for.F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV23

Route Description13Náměstí Míru k yVinohrady Theatre25Church of St. LudmilaU Vodárny St.Náměstí Míru Square1There’s no doubt that náměstí Míru (Peace Square) is the heart ofVinohrady. The attractive square is a popular site for various holidaymarkets.Church of St. Ludmila w ludmilavinohrady.cz2Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor) w hs-vinohrady.czA Functionalist building comprising a ceremonial hall, a residentialbuilding, and a bell tower. It’s one of Czech architect Pavel Janák’smajor projects.6Vinohradská water tower (Vinohradská vodárenská věž)A seven-story tower with a Neo-Renaissance façade and staircaseserved its function until 1962. It’s said that in good weather, the statuesof trumpeting angels can see as far as the Krkonoše Mountains, some150 km away.At its centre stands the Church of St. Ludmila, whose 60m high towersdominate the area.Vinohradská water towerChurch of St. LudmilaVinohradská St.3King George of Poděbrady Square (náměstí Jiříhoz Poděbrad) k y w srdcepane.cz7Vinohrady Theatre w divadlonavinohradech.comIn stark contrast to its severe Neo-Gothic lines, the VinohradyTheatre, to the left of the church, catches the eye with its swirling ArtNouveau lines. A few steps from the theatre is the National Buildingin Vinohrady, a monumental Neo-Renaissance edifice that’s home tocultural events and restaurants w nardum.czSlezská St.4Budečská St.Vinohradská St.The square is a frequent venue for a popular farmers’ market aswell as other culinary and cultural events.Pavilon w pavilon.czThe building of the former Vinohrady Market has graced theneighbourhood since 1903. Behind its Neo-Renaissance façade liesa spacious interior dominated by the original iron support structure.Today Pavilon is an interior design shopping centre and café.St.24Arriving on the square, your eyes will be immediately drawn to theunusual monumental architecture of the Church of the Most SacredHeart by Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who was also the creativeforce behind the modern reconstruction of Prague Castle. Thechurch, whose shape is meant to evoke that of Noah’s ark, is the mostimportant modern religious building in Prague.U Tržnice St. Slezská St. Šumavská St. Moravská St.5 Hus Congregational House (Husův sbor)F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOVDykovaSlavíkova St.8Švehla Dormitory (Švehlova kolej)The imposing Švehla Dormitory building is evidence of Žižkov’s richstudent life. The dormitory was built shortly after the founding ofthe Czechoslovak Republic in 1918 in national Art Deco style withelements of Rondo-Cubism. It still functions as a home for CharlesUniversity students today.F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV25

Zvonařova St.9Fibichova St.Škroupovo náměstí/SquareYou might find it hard to believe, but this square measures 150 m(492 ft) in diameter. It entered the Prague history books as the siteof the events of the first authorized dissident demonstration inDecember 1988. Václav Havel gave his first public political speechhere, demanding the release of political prisoners.Pospíšilova St. Fibichova St. 10 Žižkov Television Tower and OldJewish Cemetery in Žižkov10Žižkov Television Transmitter w towerpark.czA triple tower resembling a spaceship ready for launch is anunmistakable dominant feature of the Prague skyline. In additionto technical equipment, the transmitter tower also houses a luxurysingle suite hotel, a restaurant with bar and café, and an observationdeck with an amazing view of Prague. The transmitter’s columns areadorned with bizarre figures of babies by sculptor David ČernýOld Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov Directly under the tower, the MahlerGardens hide their secrets. At one time, a Jewish cemetery waslocated here, parts of which are still clearly visible. The old Jewishcemetery in Žižkov was originally part of a plague burial groundof the Prague Ghetto, but over time it transformed into a propercemetery which served the community for over a century.Žižkov Television Transmitterand Old Jewish Cementeryin Žižkov11International Telephone Exchange BuildingThe monumental International Telephone and Telegraph Exchangebuilding is one of the most interesting buildings in Žižkov. It was builtshortly after 1921 by architect Bohumír Kozák. Its two towers andother decorative elements are typical examples of Czech nationalDecorativism.Kubelíkova St.12Palác Akropolis w palacakropolis.czThe cultural heart of Žižkov, Akropolis has a restaurant and multi-genreprogramme of both established and rising stars. Artist František Skálaand architect/playwright David Vávra designed the eclectic interior.Víta Nejedlého St.13Vlkova St.Sladkovského náměstí/SquareThe Church of St. Prokop dominates this picturesque square at thefoot of “upper Žižkov” and, along with the nearby Lipanská tram stop,forms one of a number of Žižkov’s focal points. The Neo-Gothic churchwas built at the turn of the 20 th century.Seifertova St., the main artery of the Žižkov district, is named afterJaroslav Seifert, outstanding Czech poet and Nobel laureate. Henot only lived here, but also studied at the nearby grammar school.Seifertova St.14Milíčova St.Štítného St.Žižkov Theatre of Jára Cimrman w zdjc.czThe Žižkov Theatre occupies an unassuming building at number 520.It has a varied past. The building has been used as a theatre, a chapel,and a renowned dance hall. For many seasons now, however, a theatregroup performs here, dedicated to spreading the word of fictitiousCzech Renaissance man and unrecognized genius Jára Cimrman.Štítného St.15Kostnické náměstí/SquareKostnické Square is probably the most picturesque square in Žižkov. Itgets its name from the German city of Kostnice (Konstanz), where thechurch council met in 1415 and sentenced Czech church reformer JanHus to death by burning. The name refers to the connection betweenthe Žižkov district and the Hussite events of the 15th century. Fromthe square, there’s an interesting view of Vítkov Hill and the dominantbronze equestrian statue of Jan Žižka of Trocnov.Orebitská St.Husitská St.Husitská St. along with its surroundings is a memorable, yet slightlydark place in Žižkov. During the Middle Ages, gallows were locatedhere.26F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOVF R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV27

National Memorial on VítkovU Památníku St.16National Monument on Vítkov16 National Memorial on Vítkov (Národní památník naVítkově) w nm.czA dense network of walking and bike paths cloaks Vítkov Hill;take any of them up the hill to the memorial. This monument, withits remarkable Art Deco interior, was originally built to honour theCzechoslovak Legionnaires who fought abroad during World War I28F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOVand as a mausoleum in which the first Czechoslovak president, TomášGarrigue Masaryk, was to be entombed. Today the National Museum’smilitary history collection is on display here. Together with one ofthe largest equestrian statues in the world (depicting the legendaryHussite leader Jan Žižka, after whom the entire surrounding districtis named), the Vítkov Memorial is one of the visual dominants of thecity. The roof, accessible by paying a fee, offers a panoramic viewof the city.F R O M V I N O H R A DY TO Ž I Ž KOV29

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Mašek Villa 8 Suchardova St. Sucharda Studio Villa 5 Jan Koula Villa In a sea of beautiful houses, two adjacent villas – at numbers 15 and 17 – stand out. The villa of builder Jan Koula combines Historicism with elements of folk architecture. A stroll through Bubeneč is most del