Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish

instructablesSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polishby bekathwiaThis Instructable introduces the tools and techniques you'll need to create nished jewelry from precious sheet metal!We'll walk through the steps to create a chevron pendant (or keychain) from copper (or sterling silver, etc. if that is yourpreference) by sawing, ling, sanding, and polishing the metal before attaching jump rings to a necklace chain or keyring. This project is an excerpt from my free Instructables Jewelry class, so if you like it, be sure to check out the other newskills you can learn!For this project, you will need:18 gauge (1.1mm) nonferrous sheet metal (sterling silver, copper, brass, etc.), about 6" x 3" (15cm x 8cm)ScissorsSmooth jaw pliers (set including ush cutters)Safety glassesSilver-plated wire (26ga and 18ga)jump ringschain and clasps or key ringsSmall rulerCalipers (optional)Bench blockChasing hammerSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 1

Rawhide malletNeedle lesBench pinSaw frame, blades, and bur lubricantSandpaper (handi- les, wet/dry sheet, and/or sanding pads in various grits 200-1000)Dust maskPaper sketch and glue stickSmall towelApron (optional)Bench brushCenter punchDrill bit (2mm or smaller)Old toothbrush and soapFinishing waxThe metal you choose may vary based on your budget and preference but should be non-ferrous, which means withoutiron (the primary component of steel). Iron and steel are very hard metals, making them less than ideal for small jewelryprojects where malleability is key. Copper, sterling silver (a silver alloy with a small amount of copper or other metals toSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 2

make it sti er), and brass (an alloy of copper and zinc) are all soft enough to cut and shape into jewelry with ease. Goldand aluminum, among others, are also used for sheet metal jewelry, though not recommended for beginners (they areboth very soft).To keep up with what I'm working on, follow me on YouTube, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, and subscribe to mynewsletter. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you make using my a liate links.Step 1: Paper PatternSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 3

Although I've included a printable template for thecutout chevron shown in this project, I encourage you todraw and use your own designs! Use graph paper tocreate symmetrical designs. Sharpen up your straightlines with a ruler, and cut your pattern out with a bit ofspace around the outer edge. Use a glue stick tothoroughly coat the back of the pattern all the way tothe edges (do this on a scrap piece of paper to catchexcess glue), then rmly press the pattern to the sheetmetal and smooth down the edges.placing the pattern edge along the factory edge of yoursheet metal, and tiling similar pieces closely to cut theedges of two pieces at the same time. Let the glue dryfor at least a few minutes before proceeding to the nextstep.But why cut all the way around a single shape? That'lltake forever! You can be economical about your cuts X50/IWQVOQBY/FTSOX50IWQVOQBY.pdfSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 4

Step 2: Piercing With a Saw FrameA jeweler's frame saw holds tiny blades to cut intricateshapes. Blades are held in place with two thumb screws,and the frame size adjusts with a third thumb screw fortensioning the blade.To set up your saw frame, rst grab a blade and hold itup to the light so you can see its teeth. Blades size 2, 1,and 1/0 are well suited for 18ga. sheet metal. Noticewhich way the teeth seem to be pointing— this is thedirection the blade will cut. To take the best advantageof gravity, we want out cuts to occur on the downstrokeof the saw, so the blade should be oriented with its teethpointing downwards when mounted in the saw frame.Loosen the thumb screw closest to the saw handle andinsert the bottom end of the saw blade, ensuring theSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 5

teeth are pointing forward (away from the rest of thesaw). Tighten the thumb screw to secure the blade atone end. Next, loosen the thumb screw at the back ofthe frame, so the far section can move freely. Slide it tobring the blade's other end overlapping with the farthumb screw area, and use the thumb screw to securethe blade end.The last step in setting up the saw frame is tensioningthe blade. Pull the saw frame pieces apart, and tightenthe thumb screw while the frame is under tension. Yourblade should be very tight and "sing" when you pluck it.Set up your sheet metal with its glued-on template onyour bench pin. This sturdy bit of wood with a V-cut isextremely helpful for piercing sheet metal, as it supportsthe metal on both sides of a cut.Since you're about to create a bunch of tiny metalshavings, a few words about safety and mess: Wearsafety glasses, a dust mask, and protect your lap. You willbe tempted to blow shavings away from the cutting areaas you saw, but this just puts more particles in the air foryou to inhale immediately. Use a bench brush to moveshavings away from the cut area, and use a towel, apron,or catch tray below your work to catch dust. You don'twant these shavings to get into the fabric of your pantsor other clothes— they become itchy and are hard toSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 6

remove.If you're working with sterling silver, de nitely save yourdust and scrap pieces! You can sell precious scrap metalsback to most suppliers by weight. Scrap copper is muchless valuable by comparison, and I don't bothercollecting it at home (I recycle it with other householdmetals). When I was in school, the student shopcollected scrap copper in a ve-gallon bucket and sold itfor scrap once per semester.Right before you get ready to make your rst cut, glideyour blade against a stick of bur lubricant. Do this at thestart of every cut, after every minute or so of sawing, orwhen turning tight corners with the blade. This reducesfriction which not only makes the blade cut through themetal more easily, but prolongs the blade's usefulness aswell.Hold the saw upright in your dominant hand, with yourelbow comfortably bent. Adjust your chair height soyour bench pin is lined up with your chest. Take extratime to notice your posture as you work. Since jewelry isa labor-intensive craft, it's important not to put yourbody in strenuous positions. Place the base of the bladeperpendicular to the sheet metal and draw the bladestraight down, applying light pressure on the saw in thedirection of the cut.After the initial notch has been cut, focus more onmoving the blade straight up and down along the edgeof the pattern line, and don't worry about applying toomuch forward pressure. Use smooth whole-arm motionsand keep your wrist straight. The blade will do its job andnibble away bits of metal with each downward stroke.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 7

Step 3: Interior CutoutsTo cut out interior shapes, rst you'll create a divot in themetal with a center punch and carpenter's hammer.Drill bits tend to skate on smooth surfaces, so it'snecessary to create a divot to get the drill bit started. Thedivot will serve to host a drill bit, which will clear the wayfor inserting a saw blade. Use a carpenter's hammer overa polished nishing hammer with steel tools; otherwiseyou'll scratch up the surface of your smooth hammer,and those scratches will transfer to other work later! It'sbest to punch your metal on a smooth surface like abench block. On softer surfaces like wood, the punchedmetal may deform on the underside (and poke a hole inthe surface as well).Position the point of the center punch somewhereinside the metal to be cut away (closer to the middlethan near the edge - this gives you room to maneuveryour saw inside the area to be removed), and hold thetool straight up and down. Strike the tool with a singlerm blow from your hammer. Repeat for additionalcutouts, if any.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 8

Set up your rotary tool or standard hand drill with a tiny(2mm or slightly smaller) drill bit. Draw your stick of burlubricant along the drill bit, then place the drill bitSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 9

against the divot and brace the metal before turning onthe power. As the drill bit spins, apply gentle downwardpressure until the bit pierces through, then remove andpower down the tool.Grab your saw frame and secure the blade near thehandle, but not at the other end. Thread the saw bladethrough the hole you drilled in the metal beforesecuring and tensioning the blade in the frame. Now youcan begin cutting (don't forget the bur lubricant) frominside the area to be removed to cut out the void.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 10

Step 4: Refining Edges With Needle FilesSheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 11

Once you've nished cutting out your shape, it's time toclean up the edges with a set of needle les. Most lesare hardened steel with a tooth pattern cut into them,but when you’re shopping you might also see lescovered in diamond grit. Reserve your les for use onsoft metals only, as ling steel will quickly dull the teethand reduce their e ectiveness. These les cut on thepush stroke, so you should only apply downwardpressure on the le when pushing it away from you, andrelease the pressure for the pull stroke. Use the di erentareas of your bench pin to brace the metal for ling, andtry to avoid positions that brace the metal against yourhand.Files come in di erent shapes to allow you to get intotight spots or le curved shapes. For instance, to le theinterior edges of the chevron that extend into a tightcorner, use a shallow triangular at le.To perform uniform strokes across narrow edges, holdthe le diagonally to the work and push it across themetal from tip to base as you glide the le along thelength of the edge. Continue ling until all edges are at,even, and perpendicular to the workpiece.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 12

Step 5: SandingTo re ne the surface of your metal, you'll use sandpaperacross a gradient of grits from (relatively) coarse to ne.Most hardware stores carry sheets of wet-dry sandpaper;pick up a sheet each of 400, 600, and 800 grit. You cantape sandpaper to a at surface to create a mini sandingboard, and get sanding boards that work like nail les. Ifyou don't plan to polish your projects with a rotary tool,you can achieve a very respectable lustrous surface bynishing with some super ne sanding pads. Keep yourdust mask on when sanding.Now's also the time to decide what this workpiece willbecome, if you haven't already. To make a pendant,punch and drill two small holes near the upper points ofthe chevron. To create a keychain, create just one hole,but make it a bit larger. File away any burs left fromdrilling and resume the beginning of the sandingprocess.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 13

Use the sandpaper to gently round the edges and sharpcorners of your workpiece, then rub the piece on a atsheet of sandpaper to sand each broad surface.Sand the led edges, starting with a coarse grit (200400). Either rub the metal across the stationarysandpaper, or vice versa (or a combination thereof) untilthe surface is uniform. You may expose some areas thatrequire touching up with a le. Don't ignore these spots,as sanding is a one-way process! If you rough up an areawith a le, you'll have to start again with the coarsestsandpaper and work your way ner, so you might as wellget that all out of the way now.Repeat the sanding process over the whole workpiecewith 600 grit sandpaper, then with 800 grit. Each time,evaluate the piece for scratches bigger than that grit canremove, and backtrack to a coarser grit if necessary toremove all scratches.Sheet Metal Jewelry Basics - Saw, File, Sand, & Polish: Page 14