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Textile Craft, Textile and Fashion Design, Textile Technology, Textile Management & Fashion CommunicationSpecial Edition: Smart textiles

2The Editors6Adjusting daylight and solar heating in officesJoy Boutrup, Vibeke Riisberg14In the making - designing with smart textilesLinda Worbin20Exhibition ReviewIntegrity – Nature-Creature-CultureAnnie Andréasson36Electroactive textile fibers produced by coating commerciallyavailable textile fibers with conductive polymerTariq Bashir, Mikael Skrifvars, Nils-Krister Persson50Textile strain sensors characterization- Sensitivity, linearity, stability and hysteresisLi Guo, Lena Berglin, Heikki Mattila64Book Review66The Swedish School of Textiles74The Research Group at theSwedish School of Textiles798288929496104110114118The Textile Research Centre, CTFCTF, Advisory CouncilCTF PublishingNew BookTextile NotesTextile material libraryStig NilssonBringing active functions to fibresMartin StrååtCall for conference and exhibition participationAmbience 2011 - First callThe Editorial Board, The Nordic Textile JournalContributorsThe Textile Research Boardat Swerea IVF

Smart TextilesThe Smart Textiles initiative has in the past year changedfrom an initiation phase to a development phase, addressing three main areas:The Editors development of innovative collaboration and clusters; experimental research, business innovation2The Nordic Textile JournalSmart Textiles has strengthened its role as a national andinternational cluster in the textile field. The results rangefrom being involved in European projects such asCrosstexnet (an ERA-NET project where the VästraGötaland region is a ”lead partner”), collaboration inother initiatives, such as research and development incellulosic fibres for textile and fashion purposes, ”PulpFashion”, the organization of seminars to strengthenlinks between institutes and universities, formation ofcentres (PPE-Personal Protective Equipment, togetherwith the SP, the Swedish Technical Research Institute)and business-driven projects.Smart Textiles DesignSmart Textiles design items have become highly soughtafter, although they are not yet finished products.Examples are the interactive pillows and the EnergyCurtain project. Here we together with a textile producer(Ludvig Svensson AB) presented a prototype of a textilewith integrated lighting elements that form a self-sufficientenergy system through solar cells applied to the textiledesign. This prototype was developed in 2004-2005– now an architect proposes to purchase about 2500sq.m. of energy curtain fabric. This can be seen as a firstexample of how research can proceed into productdevelopment and production.Thus, there is high expectation that the experimentaldesign research will generate ideas that can be quicklytranslated into products. Therefore a ”smart textilesample collection” has been developed to show how thetextile material or expression can be developed in parallelwith the application and need. It facilitates collaborationwith textile producers, textile designers and productdevelopers, where enterprises and local designers will beable to use the new textile materials. It is intended as acollection to use in workshops, product development, etc.At the same time it is important that we maintain theheight of the experimental design research group, tocontinue a long-term development and support. ”New”pillows and energy curtains are ready for product development during the next decade.Smart Textiles TechnologyOne main focus is on experimental research in melt spinning of conductive and piezoelectric fibres. Conductivityis achieved by mixing in conductive particles, where bothnovel carbon nanotubes and traditional carbon blackparticles are used in the experiments. The ability of thematerials to be drawn into fibres was tested as well asthe conductivity level after drawing to fibres. The resultsshowed that increased levels of filler were detrimentalto the spinning properties, and, in addition, conductivitydecreased at drawing. With the new nanotubes conductance disappeared completely.By using bi-component technology in melt spinning fibrescould still be made of the material with high filler content.Heat treatment of the bi-component fibres made it possible to recover the lost conductivity. The result was athin fibre with a core of electrically conductive materialand with good strength, just slightly less than an ordinarynylon fibre. The intended use of the new fibres is interalia as small heaters that can be woven into textiles, butthere is also an opportunity to use the fibres as temperature sensors.Research has also focused on the development ofconductive fibres by melt spinning and coating. Herepolymers with intrinsic conductive properties are used,The Nordic Textile Journal3

predominantly polyaniline. Melt spinning was carried outof polypropylene which had been modified with polyaniline or carbon nanotubes. The aim was to determine thecritical process parameters to achieve both high electricalconductivity, and good fibre properties. The results showthat about 10 S/cm conductivity can be achieved, whichis comparable with results from other research groups.The addition of the conductive components, however,impairs other fibre properties. With the help of compatibilizers features can be improved and a relatively goodconductive fibre obtained. By steam polymerisation reactivemonomers are absorbed on the surface of a fibre or yarn,and then polymerized to PEDOT (poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene)). This method gives yarn with conductivitiesof about 10 - 20 S/cm, with the advantage of havinggood textile properties. So far only short fibre lengths canbe coated. A continuous coating method will be developed,which should provide a commercially viable process.Another theme has been the so-called shape memorypolymers, polymers that can change the shape from thestimulation of temperature, light, electro-magnetic fields,pH, etc. The focus was initially on textile aspects, such astextile structure and appropriate conditions for industrialproduction of textiles with memory polymers. However,the availability of these materials is very limited, and ownsolutions were then developed. Switching is achieved bytemperature stimuli, in what we call thermally activatedtextile actuators, TATA. The big advantage is the reversibility. Many memory polymers are one-way; they switchinto a shape and stay there.4The Nordic Textile JournalIn a new project the focus is to create electrically conductivecoated fabrics, where the choice of materials (a textilesubstrate and a polymer blend for an optimal coatingpaste) in combination with process parameters (conditions of the coating) was the theme. Conductive textileis a technology platform for several varieties of smarttextiles, which in most cases are based on being able totransmit or process electrical signals.In the medical field, concentrated in the platform MT3(Medical Texttronics), research is made on textile structures for the measurement of ECG. Especially, the development of new knitted electrode structures, developmentof a new model for the integration of electrodes withincreasing pressure and the generation of strain- andpressure-sensitive structures.Metrology and measurement technology for electricalmeasurements in textile materials responds to a greatneed. Equipment has been designed and theoreticalmodelling of the correct measurement procedure for thefibre, with its special geometry, has been performed. Aproject about sound-absorbing fabrics aims to investigatehow a textile should be designed in the best way to actas sound absorber and how materials can best be usedto create sound control in common types of rooms, suchas schools and nurseries. Initial measurements of acousticproperties in different classrooms have been carried out.Business InnovationSmart Textiles Business Innovation consists of two parts,Company Driven Projects and Prototype Factory. Thefoundation of Company Driven Projects was laid at theinitiative’s start in 2006, and in subsequent years, thisprogramme is increasingly taking shape. Initially a number of enterprises announced their interest and duringthe first two years 13 company-driven projects were started. Three ongoing projects per month was an averageto compare with the last two years, where we have anaverage of 15 projects per month and a total of 25 projects started. The reason for this large increase is greateremphasis on activation of companies and enticing themto cooperate with researchers. The distribution of bothactive and formerly non-active firms is larger and projectresults improve.In some instances the Smart Textiles programme initiatesprojects. Preferably these are thematically oriented projects with enterprises working together. One example is theproject Qanuk on the cold climate theme, which startedin September 2010.A further example of a project that turned out well, thecompany TST Sweden AB with the project ”Smart fabricsimpact on the human body”. The project has resultedin a new business with the brand name TEMPTECH. Inaddition to the TEMPTECH product, a refrigeration andheating element of PCM (Phase Change Material), alsobusiness knowledge and advice are provided. The projectwas laid out to develop PCM materials and clothing forvarious user situations and analyze the needs indifferent contexts.Prototype Factory, which is the second part of theBusiness Innovation programme in the Smart Textilesinitiative, is a resource for prototyping and testing andverification of ideas. A textile library, described in anotherarticle in this journal, has been inaugurated in the springand is now under implementation in the Prototype Factory.It will be a support and a platform for various stakeholdersto stimulate innovation and creative development.Håkan TorstenssonAn example of a successful project and a new company,Y-Graft AB Project ”Y-graft in human-adapted textiles”.Two authors, a mathematician and a vascular surgeon joined Smart Textiles and opportunities around collaborationwere discussed. Bypass surgery on legs and hearts is acommon form of treatment in symptomatic atherosclerosis. Unfortunately, there is often a severe scarring of thetissues into which vascular bypass grafts are sewn. Thisleads to narrowing and about 30% of all such implantscease working after a year. The idea then was to developan artificial blood vessel of a textile that was adaptedfor human use. Such blood vessels have a design thatmimics nature and has the potential to improve function.Together with Smart Textiles a patented flexible graft intextiles has now been developed.The Nordic Textile Journal5

Joy BoutrupTextile engineer and expertin textile chemistry fromFachhochschule Niederrheinin Krefeld, Germany. Shehas worked in research atTextilforschungszentrumNordwest in Krefeld and lecturedin a tenure position at The DanishDesign School. She is former headof Textile, Paper and LeatherConservation at the NationalMuseum of Denmark. Currentlyshe holds a part-time position asassociate professor at KoldingSchool of Design combined withextensive lecturing activities allover the world. jbo@dskd.dkVibeke RiisbergPh.D., graduated as a textile designer from DanmarksDesignskole and studied computer graphics at Visual School ofArt in New York. Her professionalexperience includes textile art,design and consultancy for thetextile industry as well as teaching. Riisberg has worked, exhibited and lectured internationally,and is represented in severalbooks on textile art and design.She has also been awarded someof the most prestigious grantsand awards in Denmark. The subject of her Ph.D. dissertation wasDesign and Production of PrintedTextiles – from analogue to digital processes. Currently she holdsa position as Associate Professorin textiles at Kolding School ofDesign, Denmark. vri@dskd.dk6Textile JournalAdjusting daylight andsolar heating in officesJoy Boutrup, Associate Professor,Vibeke Riisberg, Associate Professor, Ph.DKolding School of Design,Aagade 10, 6000 Kolding, DenmarkAbstractThere is a need to adjust daylight and temperature in office buildings accordingto changes of the type of work, the day and the seasons. This project seeks tomerge aesthetical, functional and theoretical reflections into indoor decorativetextiles for the regulation of daylight. Diverse techniques for obtaining differentlevels of diffusion and transparency were applied in decorative patterns andthe resulting textiles investigated in two series of experiments. The firstexperiments were conducted in a model, the second in full scale. Temperaturemeasurements, digital photography and infra-red photography were used forthe evaluation of results.Key words: Daylight regulation, light diffusion, printed textiles, devoré,woven textiles.IntroductionIn both old and new office buildings there is a need to regulate daylight andtemperature according to changes of the type of work, the day and the seasons.For the employees direct sunlight often cause problems when working oncomputer screens, and increase of temperature in the office space can be mostimpeding. But it is also important to have sufficient and changing daylight inour working environment, as it is vital to our health and state of mood.Several research projects have documented the problematic (Christoffersen et al.1999, Figueiro et al. 2002, Traberg-Borup, Grau & Johnsen 2005, Osterhaus2009). However, these investigations are mainly concerned with measurementsof sufficient daylight, health issues, building regulations and architectural problems.They do not consider the aesthetic aspects of the working environment orsuggest new interior design solutions.The Nordic Textile Journal7

This project seeks to merge aesthetical, functional andtheoretical reflections into indoor decorative shadings,which can adjust daylight and solar heating in offices.The objective is also to explore new solutions that willtake maximum advantage of daylight in order to saveenergy. We see decoration as an active functional element,which can provide both a means for light adjustment anda pleasurable experience to users. Our research is practicebased and carried out through a series of experimentalinvestigations of ornament, textile materials and –techniques in combination with polarizing, UV- andIR-filtrating foils.Existing SolutionsWe did a survey of existing shadings on the market, andmade a small qualitative study of daylight adjustment insix office buildings – five of them taken into use betweenyear the 2000 and 2005, and one in 1984 – facade renovated in the year 2000 to prevent overheating.Our study showed that there is a relatively small rangeof products, which have been mounted on the facade orinside the buildings. In all six cases there were two sets ofshadings, either one outside and one inside or two inside.The shadings on the market are generally roller blinds andVenetian blinds or flat panels – the majority is withoutdecoration and in white or neutral grey tones. Althoughthere is a choice of solutions on the market with color ordecorative surfaces those chosen all have an anonymousappearance, which does not seek to give the user anytactile or visual pleasure. Most of the outside screeningswere centrally controlled and outside the influence of theindividual. These are the points we are aiming to challengein our research.The conclusion of the study is that problems with lightand heat are still not solved in office buildings. Becausethe blinds have to be down in order to get enoughscreening, artificial light is often turned on all day evenduring the summer – adding to the energy consumptionof the building.8The Nordic Textile JournalDecorationNew technology and materialsFirst experimentsThe basis of our research is a conviction that decorationis more than just frippery. We believe that ornament canbring about more pleasure to the users of a workingenvironment, and also become an integrated functionalelement in the shading.A literature study of new technologies and materials wascarried out, including different types of window glass.Among other things we looked at Photo Chrome andPhoto Luminescense pigments, which are activated by UVlight, but found that these pigments were not suited forindoor screening, because most window glass have anintegrated UV filter. Thermo Chrome pigments that reactto heat were also investigated, but not found relevant,because at present they are only available in colors thatchange from darker to lighter – for our purpose theopposite was needed.The first series of experiments were carried out as flathorizontal sliding panels. This offered the opportunity towork with combinations of ornamentations and materials on different levels. The point of departure was thehypothesis that:According to the design historian David Brett, decorationis an expression of a deep human need for visual pleasure:“ a disposition not unlike the faculty of language andcounting, immanent in our nature without which wewould not be complete human beings. Just as there areno societies that do not speak or count so there are nonethat do not decorate, embellish or make patterns”.This he defines as a group of values, which include socialrecognition, perceptual satisfaction, psychological rewardand erotic delight (Brett 2005).TextilesTextiles are both flexible and strong and possess specificproperties in regard to light diffusion. These can be influenced through the choice of fibers and constructions suchas yarn twist and weave density. When the light passesthrough the yarn, it is diffused due to the differences inrefraction index between fiber material and air. Furthermore,the finishing techniques and the layout of the decorationcan play an active role in the distribution of daylight ina room. Fabrics and also foils can be manipulated anddecorated in various printing techniques and laser cuttingto obtain different levels of transparency and diffusion.Apart from its functional properties, textiles also havespecific tactile, poetic and aesthetic qualities, which arelinked to our early subjective emotions and bodily experiences. These experiences are at the same time collectiveand included in our common cultural references (Attfield2000, Collet 2010). This aesthetic, technical, functionaland cultural knowledge is the vocabulary of the textiledesign profession, and it is applied in our practice-basedexperiments.Also more sophisticated high tech products were evaluatedeg. phase changing materials that can store and releaseheat. Used in a thin fabric this material needs to be closeto the body in order to work, and to regulate roomtemperature it must be added in a large amount. Thusit makes good sense to use phase changing materials inwalls, but not as threads in a thin curtain fabric. Anotherhigh tech material - photovoltaric foil - which transformslight into energy was studied, but abandoned, owing tothe fact that two layers of window glass would lowerenergy harvesting considerably. We looked at severalother high tech materials, which for various reasons didnot suit our purpose – some also had an unacceptableimpact on the environment if applied to mass production.On this background it was decided to base the experimentson traditional textile techniques, new loom technology,new fibres, foils and 3D structures. It is possible to unite decoration and function in a newtype of interior screen The optimal regulation can be obtained by combinationsof materials with different properties regarding lightdiffusion, light transmittance and heat reflection It is possible to do this using two or more adjustablelayers with patterns creating new visual impressionsby combinationIn order to limit the experiments, we used only white,grey and silver tones. Nine different materials were selected and printed or cut with five geometric patterns – allconstructed from the same hexagon grid. The patterningconsisted of different levels of transparency obtained bythe use of different cutting and printing techniques. Thepatterns were designed to form an open and closed position in two or three layers – allowing more or less light inthe room.From the first 32 samples 14 were selected and testedin a 1:4 scale model of an office at Kolding School ofDesign. These first experiments mainly had the purpose oftesting different materials and their patterning properties.The actual patterns were chosen as representative, withthe intention to be perceived as relatively neutral and ofno narrative connotation. The light was measured in themodel at different positions and places in order to get apicture of the general distribution of light and glare. Allcombinations were documented with a digital cameraduring the process. The aesthetic appearance of eachcombination was discussed between the members of theteam with reference to what was percieved as an overallpleasant distribution of light, relation of the patterns,proportions and materials.The Nordic Textile Journal9

Preliminary findingsThere was a clear correlation between the visual impressions of the light distribution and the measurements. Thedecorative aspect clearly has to be further developed andstructured into user surveys in connection with the furtherdevelopment of patterns.The aesthetic results of some combinations could bedescribed as poetic, delicate and fragile, both visually andin the fabric tactility. This was particularly linked to thedevoré samples. Others were perceived as disagreeable,with hard pointed forms and too harsh contrasts whenexposed to backlight. This effect was due to the patternlayout in combination with pigment or foil transfer printing,which shut out the light completely in the printed parts.The experiments made it clear that the design of pattern,the choice of material and technique as well as the variation of backlight in daytime and artificial light in the eveningposes a huge challenge, which is further complicated bythe need for functional performance to distribute daylightand moderate the solar heating.But the experiments confirmed the idea that textiles andother fiber based materials are diffusing the light andremoving the glare, while the IR-reflecting foils reduce theamount of light considerably, but have no positive effecton the glare. The preliminary findings show that a combination of materials and several layers will be necessary foran effective screening.The second series of experimentsOn the basis of the first findings a new series of experimentswere planned and carried out in 1:1 scale. The resultswere later tested in the office on which the 1:4 modelhad been based. Two or three layers can be combined inthe commercial panel system which was applied. In thissystem the panels can slide horizontally and overlap.As a point of departure for developing the new ornamentation, we chose three distinctly different pattern categories: floral, textural and geometric – all well known withinthe textile vocabulary (Meller & Elffers1999). The reasonfor this choice was partly a wish to establish a common10The Nordic Textile Journalframe of reference, which could be recognized by a widegroup of users, partly to further investigate the visual andfunctional effect of combining two different materialswith three different patterns in two or three layers.Before selecting designs for printing the 1:1 panels, arelatively long sketching phase took place. Based on avisual analysis of historical documents a great numberof different means of expressions were explored andbrought into new designs. An on-going evaluation tookplace in the group, until finally three motifs were selected:One big flower with no repetition, one texture – openinggradually towards the top and resembling the surfaceof a melon, and one geometric repeat pattern with ovalshapes in different sizes.The three patterns were printed as devoré on a ‘silverfabric’ (woven with aluminized foil yarn) - and on a cotton/polyester fabric. Devoré is a printing technique that locallyremoves some fibers or aluminum from the fabric. In thefinished fabric the printed pattern will show as more openareas with enhanced transparency and translucency.On three sunny days in July we registered 14 combinationswith a digital camera. And in order to find out to whatextend the screening could reduce the solar heating,we also used a thermal camera. To measure the roomtemperature two digital thermometers were placed in thewindow and next to the computer on the working desk.The illumination was measured at five different places inthe room in order to evaluate the distribution of light.At this point, we have not yet had the opportunity tocompare and analyze all the measurements and the variation of aesthetic expressions in the 14 combinations, butsome preliminary conclusions can be drawn.Results from the second series of experimentsThe measurements show that a gradation of the pattern,from more closed in the lower part to more open in theupper part, clearly helps to get more daylight into theinner parts of the room, while screening the space nearthe window.The pictures taken by the thermal camera show that thenumber of layers and the distance between them is moreimportant than the type of material, although it wasexpected that the metallic fabric would have a higherlevel of heat protection than the white cotton/polyesterfabric. The influence of the densities in the fabrics wasalso visible on these photos – e.g. the devoré patternswere clearly discernable as hotter parts.One immediate observation also was that the exclusionof color seemed to make it difficult to remember thevarious combinations, even though they were in fact verydifferent. This suggests a wider focus in future researchexperiments, raising the question on the role of color andmemory. This observation along with a hypothesis ontextile genre identification will be tested in the future on agroup of potential users.Woven fabricsWhile the first two series of experiments were basedon commercial fabrics with a limited choice of densitieswe have also initiated investigations into design of newwoven qualities based on the experiences and resultsfrom those. This implies working with different weaveconstructions, density and yarns. These experiments weremade by hand weaving on a computerized 24 shaft loomand on the new EasyLeno machine loom at LindauerDornier in Germany.The hand woven samples tested different yarns anddensities concentrating on flame retardant polyesterand newly developed fibers with special light diffusingproperties from the companies Trevira, Torcitura Padanaand Teijin. The filament yarns of polyester were withoutpigmentation, allowing a maximum of light transmissionbut with a high degree of diffusion due to the new shapeof the cross section. Fibers of PLA (Linnemann, Harwoko& Gries 2003) and viscose FR were also included.These investigations are strongly linked to a topic, nottouched upon in this article, namely the legislation onflame retarding materials in public buildings, and ourgoal to create more environmentally friendly and sustainable solutions for interior screens. The devoré techniquedemands two different kinds of fibers, and it is not possible to combine flame retardant polyester with othertypes of flame retardant fibers in order to make a fabricsuited for devoré without loosing the flame retardancy. Inorder to obtain different levels of transparencies imitatingdevoré, most of the hand woven samples were aimed atdecoupure patterns, where the differences in density areobtained by cutting away floats on the surface.The hand woven samples were generally too small for anypractical tests and have mainly been used for visual andaesthetic evaluation, particulary of the new PLA fiber Biofront from Teijin, these samples will serve as inspirationalmaterial for later developments on a machine loom.The machine woven samples were on a larger scale andcould be tested. The EasyLeno was chosen because of itsability to control the density of the fabric from very opento very dense without loss of stability. The changesin density could however only be achieved in horizontalstripes mimicking the Venetian blinds. Recently theEasyLeno MultiPattern loom has been developed, thiscombines EasyLeno technology with Jacquard technologythus allowing many more pattern variants.The Nordic Textile Journal11

Parallel experimentsDiscussionReferencesParallel to the experiments with the adjustable flat panels,we have explored designs in deployable structures andtilted honeycombs, made of woven and non-wovenmaterials. The tilting of the honeycomb or the foldingmakes it possible to screen for oblique and low sunlight,which is prevalent in the Northern hemisphere. Daylight isconducted towards the ceiling and a view to the outsideis at the same time possible.This has widened the perspectives and some of the 3-Dstructures have shown promising potentials in screeningfor heat and glare. The first full size prototypes have beenmade in a flexible and diffusing non-woven material,decorated with a heat reflecting printed pattern. Nextstep is to test the prototype in an office and to measureif it brings about the desired heat-reduction and fulfill thetheoretical calculation in relation to diffusing and directingthe light.In this project technology and materials have been considered the means to solve a problem mainly with mass production in mind. Pleasant light diffusion, minimizing heat,functionality and sustainability has been the core issues.Developing acceptable aesthetic expressions for a largegroup of office users with different taste have also playeda central role in our aesthetic considerations, allthoughthis aspect still remains to be tested.Attfield, J. (2000). Wild Things – The material culture ofeveryday life. Oxford: Berg.We have chosen this approch from an environmentalpoint of view, because we believe it is important to createsimple solutions that can help cut down energy consumption in office buildings as soon as possible. Other designers and ar

The Textile Research Centre, CTF University of Borås, HB The Swedish School of Textiles, THS Textile Craft, Textile and Fashion Design, Textile Technology, Textile Management & Fashion Communication Special Edition: Smart textiles the nordic textile journal 2 / 2010. 2 The Editors

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