Do-It-Yourself Home Energy Audit - Vancouver
interiorDo-It-YourselfHome Energy Auditgreen home renovationhealthy homes for a healthy environment
GreenHowAuditEnergy is a resourceImprove performanceThe whole house energyauditYou can save money on utility costs,have a more comfortable homeand decrease your impact on theenvironment - all by improving theenergy efficiency of your house.By making energy efficient upgradesto your home, you will:Climate change, caused by greenhousegas emissions from burning fossil fuels,is one of the biggest problems facingus in the 21st century. The energy usedto heat and cool our homes, as wellas the electricity we use for lightingand appliances, contributes to 20 percent of greenhouse gas emissionsthat cause global warming.Metro Vancouver is a leader indeveloping and promoting green orsustainable building strategies as wellas renewable energy resources. Do youwant to help to solve the problem ofglobal warming and realize greatbenefits in the bargain? Make yourhome as energy-efficient as possible.The greenest resource available tous is the energy we save throughefficiency. We can all take part in thesolution.green home renovation energy audit Save MoneyMany homes see as much as a 30per cent cut in energy bills. That’smoney in your pocket. Add ComfortCutting drafts, keeping surfaceswarmer, and balancing air circulationwith air heating makes for a cozierhome. Make a healthier HomeA tighter home with good ventilationprovides better indoor air quality. Reduce Ecological ImpactImproving your home’s energyefficiency will help it work better foryou and for the environment.Cover photo: Graham Winterbottom PhotographyThe first step toward increasing yourhome’s energy efficiency and comfortis to conduct a whole house energyaudit.A diligent tour of your home withthis booklet, and its tear-out checklistto record your notes, will help youdetermine how well your homecurrently operates and what upgradesare needed to improve its energyperformance.Once you assess what needs to bedone, the guide will help you withthe second step - determining whichupgrades will give you the biggestbang for your energy efficiency buck.The guide’s payback section providesinformation to help prioritize yourupgrades; the resources section hasreferences to the information neededto accomplish your goals.
Contents1IntroductionWhy conduct an energy audit.3How To Use This Guide4Tear-Out Checklist6The Building Enclosure14What you will need before you start your audit.Use this tear-out form to take notes as you conduct your audit.Understand the components of a building enclosure, how toinvestigate your own home, and what to do to improve itseffectiveness. Air Leaks Insulation Moisture Control6Space and Water HeatingUnderstand your home’s mechanical systems, how well they areoperating, and what improvements should be made. Space Heating Water Heating17Paybacks18Terms to Know19Deep Green Considerations20Identify the most cost effective means to make your homeenergy-efficient.Definitions of common terms used throughout the guide.New energy technologies and products.ResourcesGet more information about creating your own high-efficiencyhome.green home renovation energy audit19
Before starting your audit,get free resource profilesfrom your local utility. Forcustomers of BC Hydro,log on to your account atwww.bchydro.com to viewthe consumption historyof your home's electricityuse. You can also viewBC Hydro’s Buyer Guidesfor information onyour home's resourceuse and suggestions forimprovements. Terasen’snatural gas customerscan view their accountinformation online atwww.terasengas.com.Increasing numbersof homes in the LowerMainland are installingIntroductionAt its most basic, your home is a big box that protects you from the weather andmaintains a comfortable temperature throughout the year. Two components - thebuilding enclosure and the heating system - are at the heart of what makes yourhome operate efficiently while providing maximum comfort.This booklet will show you how to conduct a basic inspection of your home’senclosure and heating system in order to make informed decisions about energyefficiency upgrades. It is not meant to be a substitute for a professional audit or forprofessionally installed efficiency upgrades. But there are many tasks that even anovice homeowner can easily accomplish, and we focus on those activities.After you complete your audit, develop a master plan for improvements. Start withlow cost and no cost measures you can do yourself; then ask yourself if you arecapable of performing more extensive work that may involve time in attics andcrawl spaces. Consider hiring a professional to complete the more complicatedwork. A good master plan can be implemented over time to help you reach yourgoals.water meters to measuretheir water usage andlower their bills. The Cityof Vancouver offers onlinebilling information atvancouver.ca.1 green home renovation energy auditThermal images above provided courtesy of Fluke Corporation
Professional Inspections and AuditsA professional energy audit comes with a fee, but gives you the benefit of abuilding performance expert’s experience and judgment. Be sure to hire anindependent auditor, one who doesn’t represent a specific product or system.Professional tools, including test equipment for air leakage and infraredcamera scans, allow you to ‘see’ energy losses in new ways. Here are someexamples of home performance services available: Blower door test - by depressurizing the home with a large fan and thenmeasuring airflow into the home, the overall air leakage of the entire homecan be measured. The test can also be used to determine the location ofleaks (pictured to the right). Duct pressure test - will identify the area and location of leaks in the ductsystem. A related ‘balance’ test of the heating ducts determines if the rightamount of air is flowing to each room for comfort and efficiency. Other testsconfirm combustion safety and ventilation fan flows. Heat pumps and A/C commissioning - a set of tests that confirm the systemshave the correct air flow and refrigerant charge. Equipment may have beensized using only rules of thumb, which can mean poor performance anddurability. Thermal Imaging - measures surface temperatures using infrared camerasand creates a visual image of heat loss. The cameras detect radiation in theinfrared range of the electromagnetic spectrum. Typically, warmer surfacesappear brighter, and cooler surfaces appear darker. The images can revealwhere walls, ceilings or floors are inadequately insulated or where windowsand doors aren't well sealed (pictured above).Thermal images above provided courtesy of Fluke CorporationPhoto top right: Conservation Services Groupgreen home renovation energy audit 2
How to UseThis GuidePreparing for the Audit Read through this entire guide first to understand the audit process and anysafety and health concerns Plan to spend a couple of hours to conduct the inspection Assemble tools and appropriate clothing - see below Fill in your audit checklist as you goTools and Materials Dust mask, eye protection, coveralls and glovesPen or pencil and this guideCalculator to calculate the size of attic and crawl space ventsRuler or tape measure to determine insulation depthsScrewdriver to remove electrical outlet and switch plate coversPlastic knitting needle, wooden chopstick or wood skewer to probe forinsulation Incense stick or candle to detect air leaks Flashlight LadderSafetyCrawl spaces may contain a variety of dusts and animal droppings. You will wantto wear appropriate clothing and safety equipment for the audit as well as makesure you are physically up to inspection tasks. Ladders and step stools should besecure. Get help with ladders if needed.Items of Particular Concern: Asbestos - still common around pipes, air ducts, old heating equipment andin vermiculite insulation. It may look like a light grey or white fibrous material.Asbestos is dangerous, but particularly so when particles become air-borne. Donot touch or vibrate anything you suspect contains asbestos. If you suspectasbestos, consult the WorkSafe bulletin on asbestos in renovation projects atwww2.worksafebc.com/i/posters/2003/WS%2003 03.htm. Fibreglass - use goggles, a dust mask, gloves and long sleeves to protect lungsand skin from irritating particles. Wiring - Turn off electricity at the breaker before probing for insulation orchecking in the vicinity of any wiring. Consult an electrician if you see bare wiresor connections not contained within covered boxes.You can search Light House Sustainable Building Centre’s service provider directoryfor Energy Audit companies in the Lower Mainland www.sustainablebuildingcentre.com. Go to page 18 for definitions of terms used throughout this guide.3 green home renovation energy auditPhoto top right: Conservation Services Group
Tear-Out ChecklistUse this form to make detailed notes as you inspect the various areas of your home. The checklist is set up by locationso you don’t have to visit one area more than once. For each area, you will be checking for insulation, air leaks, moistureproblems and the heating system components.Tear along dotted lineCeiling Above Heated AreaComments/ConcernsAttic hatch insulated weatherstrippedAttic floors insulated R-ValueAttic roof (sloped) insulated R-ValueDropped ceiling insulated R-ValueCathedral ceiling insulated R-ValueFlat roof insulated R-ValueWall top plates insulated R-ValueAttic side walls insulated R-Value blocked sealedChimney chase sealedDuct penetrations sealedPipe & wire penetrations sealedRecessed lights sealed insulated baffled if not IC ratedExhaust fan 1 working vented to outsideExhaust fan 2 working vented to outsideDucts insulated R-Value joints sealedHot water pipes insulatedVents R-Value vents-high # total net free area cleared/baffled vents-low # total net free area cleared/baffledHeating System (in Attic or Basement/Crawl Space)Furnace filters clean size/type sealed combustion flame retentionBoiler pipes insulated R-Value sealed combustionWaterheater insulated shell water temperature pipes insulated R-Value sealed combustion heat trapsFloor Below Heated Area (Basement or Crawl Space)Floor joists insulated R-ValueRim joists insulated R-ValueDucts insulated R-Value connected sealedHot water pipes insulatedGround cover (crawl space) R-Value fully coveredFloor Below Heated Area (Garage and/or Cantilevered Floors)Floor joists insulated R-ValueRim joists insulated R-Valuegreen home renovation energy audit 4
Walls (Inspected From Inside)Comments/ConcernsBetween interior/exterior insulated R-ValueBetween heated/unheated insulated R-ValuePipe & wire penetrations - baths sealedPipe & wire penetrations - kitchen sealed gasketsSwitches & outletsBaseboards/wall fans dusted 12” from furniture/combustiblesThermostat(s) working automatic setbackDoors/WindowsFront door(s) weatherstripped sealed threshold weatherstrippedBack door(s) weatherstripped sealed threshold weatherstrippedDoor(s) to unheatedarea(s) weatherstripped sealed threshold weatherstrippedDog/cat door weatherstripped sealedWindows - LR/DR weatherstripped sealedWindows - kitchen weatherstripped sealedWindows - bath weatherstripped sealedWindows - den/office weatherstripped sealedWindows - BR 1 weatherstripped sealedWindows - BR 2 weatherstripped sealedWindows - BR 3 weatherstripped sealed tightly sealed when closedFireplaceDamperFirebox heat exchanger or fireplace insert insulated panelChimney through ceiling sealedExterior of HouseGutters and eaves sealed cleared of debrisDownspouts connected sealedWindow/door flashings sealedTrees or bushes trimmed backCrawl space vents #: total net free area cleared/baffledWindows - LR/DR sealed insulated glassWindows - kitchen sealed insulated glassWindows - bath sealed insulated glassWindows - den/office sealed insulated glassWindows - BR 1 sealed insulated glassWindows - BR 2 sealed insulated glassWindows - BR 3 sealed insulated glassFront door trim sealed insulated glassBack door trim sealed insulated glassPipe & wire penetrations - baths sealedPipe & wire penetrations - kitchens sealedFoundation to walls sealedChimney to wall sealedSmall cantilevered areas (bay/garden window/bump-out) insulated R-Value
The BuildingEnclosureThe first step in an energy audit is to understand where theboundary is between the heated and unheated spaces inyour home. This boundary is called the building enclosure,envelope or shell. It includes the walls, ceilings and floorsbetween the inside and the outside, as well as thosebetween heated and unheated spaces, such as a garageor basement. In a simply shaped home it may includejust four walls, a ceiling and floor, but most homes aremore complex. A heated floor becomes a porch floor, or aside attic connects to a wall. Bay windows have tops andbottoms, and skylight wells must be insulated, too. It mayhelp to make a sketch similar to the one shown, identifyingthe specific configuration of your home.1. Air LeakageWhat It IsWe often think of insulation as the primary meansto create an energy-efficient building enclosure.However, like a sweater with a windbreaker, insulationmust work with an air barrier to be effective. The airbarrier prevents the movement of air between theinterior and the exterior (or unheated spaces). Wherethere are gaps in the air barrier, air leakage occurs.Cold air from the outside enters the home and warmair from the interior escapes. Since warm air rises,a heated home in winter acts like a big chimney.As the warm air rises and escapes through ceilingpenetrations, cold air is pulled in from the basement,garage, or crawl space. The cold air can bring dustor pollutants with it, as well as make our homesmore dry. This occurs when moisture escapes withthe warm air and the cold air coming in lowers thehumidity in the space.Any penetration in the building shell will result in airleakage. Along with doors and windows, obviousplaces where cold outside air enters a home arepenetrations for heating ducts, water pipes, sewerstacks, wiring, lighting fixtures, electrical switchesand outlets, chimneys, ventilation fans, attic hatches,fireplaces and pet doors. Air leakage can be responsible for up to 1/3 of theheating cost, so it’s a very good investment to tighten up your home.How To Look For ItIdentifying air leakage involves two approaches: (1) taking a visual inventoryof potential problem areas, and (2) noting actual air movement. You will wantto move around the interior of your home and look for leaks in the buildingenclosure, checking exterior walls, ceilings and floors. You will also investigate theunheated side of your ceilings and floors by looking in your attic and crawl spaceor unheated basement. By checking the unheated side of ceilings and floors youcan find problem areas not evident from the inside.Use the diagram you created of your building enclosure to help identify areas toinvestigate. An efficient method would be to go to each room in your house, firstlooking for specific problem areas and then using your incense stick to identify airmovement. You can note air leakage points on the checklist and/or mark thoselocations with tape. (Blue painters tape, available in hardware stores, won’t leavea tape mark.)green home renovation energy audit 6
Air Movement. You can often feel air leaks, especially on a windy day, bysimply placing your hand in front of potential leakage spots. You can dampenyour hand to feel the air flow better. A more effective method is to use an incensestick, and negative pressure in your home, to actually visualize where there is airmovement. First, close all exterior doors, windows, and fireplace flues. Second,turn off all combustion appliances such as the water heater and furnace. Third,turn ON all exhaust fans and even the dryer on a no heat setting. This will create asmall amount of negative pressure in your home - drawing more air from outsideto the interior and making the leaks more apparent. Smoke from the incense stickwill show air movement, swirling or even rushing in. Keep a damp cloth below theburning ash and keep well away from combustibles. You can also try thin strips ofbath tissue taped to the end of a kitchen straw or skewer to show air movement.Windows. Look for any missing or cracked caulking or weatherstripping, brokenlatches and cracked window panes. Sometimes, there is leakage around the insideof windows where the glass meets the frame or the frame meets the wall.Doors. Check each door that opens to the outside or to an unheated space,such as a garage, shop, mud room or enclosed porch. Be sure to include any dogand cat doors. Check for cracked or missing weatherstripping at the top and sides,and look for a door sweep at the bottom. The door threshold is also a commonplace for leaks.Electrical Outlets and Light Switches. Check that those on outside wallsor walls next to unheated areas have rubber or foam gaskets.Exhaust Fans. Pull the cover down and note if there are large gaps where thefan housing meets drywall or plaster.Pipe and Wire Penetrations. Where sinks are located at exterior walls, oradjacent to unheated spaces, look under the sink. Gaps are often left in the wallwhere pipes and wires pass through the wall.Recessed Lights. These are notorious for air leakage. Note whether they are‘Air Loc’ models and/or rated for insulation contact. Rated fixtures should have asticker on the inside that says “IC”.Joints Between Different Types of Construction. This includes brickchimneys to wood walls, vertical joints where foundations step up, and where roofbeams meet drywall or trim.Main Attic. In the attic, you are essentially looking for holes in the ceiling. First,note if you can see light coming up from below. Next, look for dark markings oninsulation, over pipes or at wall top plates, which indicate that there is an air leakand dust is being drawn through. Lastly, identify all of the items that penetrate theceiling - chimney, pipes, recessed lights, wires - and check for gaps around them.If there is insulation, pull it away to get a clear view. Chimneys and soil stacks canoften be the most serious air leaks in a home. Note whether the attic hatch hasgood weatherstripping.Side Attic. Check between the floor joists under a side attic wall. Is there solidblocking between the joists? Are any gaps in the blocking sealed? If not, you willhave heat loss from the floor on the heated side of the wall into the attic space.Crawl Space or Unheated Basement. The space under your first flooris much like the attic. Note light coming from above and look for gaps at allpenetrations, pulling away insulation when needed.Heated Basement. A common area of air leakage is where the wood frame ofthe house rests upon the concrete or block foundation. Outside air can be drawnin under the mud sill, the horizontal board that forms the base of the wood frame.Another leaky area is at the rim (or band) joist. The rim joist forms the perimeter ofthe floor framing above, and the floor joists butt into it, creating multiple cavitiesalong the length of the wall and many opportunities for air leakage.7 green home renovation energy auditPhoto left top Conservation Services GroupPhoto left bottom Amanda McCuaig
What To Do About ItOnce you’ve identified where air leakage is occurring, you’ll want to seal off thesegaps. Depending on location, you can seal air leaks with caulk, sealant or sprayfoam. Apply caulk where you need a flexible seal at narrow joints; weatherstrippingis used where two surfaces move against each other, like at a window; and sprayfoam is an excellent choice for irregular shaped gaps because it will expand to fitany opening. Before you seal gaps, review the ventilation section in this guide andthe Caulking Options section in the accompanying Bath & Laundry RenovationGuide available for download from vancouver.ca/sustainabilityWindows. Weatherstrip around the window sash (the sash is the part thatmoves) and apply caulk between the window frame and trim and between thetrim and the wall.Doors. Install weatherstripping at the tops and sides and a sweep at the base ofthe door. Install a door threshold if one doesn’t already exist and caulk or replacethose that leak.Electrical Outlets and Switches. Install foam or rubber gaskets behind theoutlet and switch plate covers on all exterior walls.Exhaust Fans, Pipes and Wires. Seal all gaps with spray foam.Recessed Lights. These should not be caulked or foamed tight unless theyare IC rated. Older cans that are not IC rated could overheat. If there is space, youcan build a box out of 3.5cm (1 inch) rigid foam insulation leaving a 10-15cm (4-6inch) air space around the light. Seal the box at all joints and to the back of theceiling material. The best solution is to replace the light with a new IC ‘Air Loc’model. These come with a gasket that seals the light fixture where it meets thedrywall, minimizing air leakage.Joints Between Different Types of Construction. Use caulk or sprayfoam to seal leaks.Attic/Crawl Space/Basement. Use spray foam to seal irregular gapsaround pipe and wire penetrations. Caulk is effective for small holes. In attics,crawlspaces and basements that have existing insulation, pull back the insulationduring the sealing and then put it back when done.Side Attic. Install wood blocking between open floor joists below the knee walland seal any gaps with spray foam.Fireplace and Duct Penetrations. If there is a large gap in the attic orbasement next to a brick chimney, or ductwork, you’ll need to use a fire-ratedsealant. If the gap is large, first install fitted sheet metal or cement board pieces tocover the opening and then seal the joints.For a detailed air leakage control guide refer to the publication ‘Keeping the HeatIn’, available free from: Energy Publications, Office of Energy Efficiency, NaturalResources Canada, c/o SJDS, Ottawa ON K1G 6S3.FireplaceWhat It IsA fire burning in an open fireplace is the leastefficient way to heat your home because 90 percent of the fire’s heat goes up the chimney withthe smoke. A roaring fire takes combustion airfrom the house and can pull all the heated air outin less than 30 minutes. Even when not in use,the fireplace can be a big cause of heat loss if thedamper does not seal well.The damper is the metal plate in the chimneyabove the fire box used to regulate the draft.Dampers should be kept closed when the fireplaceis not in use (and any previous fire is completelyout). Leaving your fireplace damper open whenthere is no fire is like leaving your front door wideopen and will dramatically increase heat loss.The City of Vancouver’s Green Homes Programincludes new standards to increase efficiency forgas-fuelled fireplaces: electronic ignition, estimatedto save around 120 in natural gas every year overpilot-lit fireplaces; and direct venting, ensuringthat the fireplace only consumes outside air andeliminating the need for a chimney.How To Look For ItUse a bright flashlight to check your fireplacedamper. The damper should have a tight sealwhen closed. If you cannot tell if it’s tight, closethe damper on a day or evening when there isa breeze. Hold a lighted incense stick under thedamper. If the flame or smoke sways or moves, theseal needs tightening. A professional mason cando these repairs.What To Do About ItInstall tight-fitting glass doors to increase theoverall efficiency of an existing fireplace. Orconsider installing one or more fireplace devicessuch as a flue top damper, air vents, heatexchangers and/or fireplace insert. In some casesan ash cleanout passage can be modified tobring outside air to the fire. Some people make adecorative panel with foam insulation on the backto fit snugly in the opening when not in use. Ifyour fireplace is no longer used, you may wish toengage a chimney repair service to permanentlyseal off the chimney.green home renovation energy audit 8
Insulation OptionsINSULATION R-VALUEWHAT IT LOOKS LIKECOMMOM APPLICATIONSFibreglass Batts2X4 R-112X6 R-19*2X10 R-302.9-3.8/inchPink or yellow blankets. Can beunfaced, paper or plastic faced, orencapsulated for ease of installation.Install in open wall, floor or ceiling cavities. Mustbe carefully installed avoiding gaps, voids orcompression. Considered to have little or nonegative impact on indoor environmental quality.Cotton-Fibre Batts2X4 R-132X6 R-19-212x10 R-303.0-3.7/inchLight blue to dark blue fluffy cotton,made from blue jean manufacturingcut-offs.Non-toxic. Non-irritating during installation. Easy toinstall and does not offgas. Can be used in placeof other batt insulation products. A newer productnot typically found in older homes.Rockwool Batts2X4 R-132X6 R-222x10 R-332.8-3.7/inchDark gray or black batts with paperfacing.Gaining popularity in residential application, butmost commonly used for industrial and commercialconstruction. Extraction and processing of mineralwool (a by product of steel processing) may still bean environmental concern.Fibreglass LooseFill2.2-2.7/inch(varies basedon density)Pink, yellow or white fluffy materialthat comes compressed in bags.Good choice for blowing into attics. Importantthat contractor set blower correctly to establishcorrect thickness and density. Most now containssome recycled content, and some manufacturershave replaced the traditional-but-toxic phenolformaldehyde binder with other more benignalternatives – or no binder is used at all. Loose fillis associated with black mould and health hazardssimilar to those associated with asbestos such aslung disease.Cellulose LooseFill3.0-3.7/inchGray finely chopped up newspaperwith fire retardant added - usuallyborate salts which inhibits mouldand fungus.Excellent choice for blowing into attic orclosed wall cavities. Be sure to seal any air gapsfirst so dust does not blow into home. When sprayapplied this is quite dense and provides a goodbarrier against air infiltration from the outside. Due tothe spray in nature of the installation, performance isless likely to suffer from installation errors.Vermiculite LooseFill2.4/inchLooks like kitty litter or very smallmica flakes. May contain asbestos.No longer used today.ExtrudedPolystyrene(ExPS or XPS)Rigid Foam5.0/inchBlue or pink rigid board.Waterproof. Excellent for exterior sealing or insulatingbasement walls. Can be applied directly to concrete.Must be protected from sunlight.ExpandedPolystyrene (EPS)Rigid Foam3.6-4.4/inchUsually white - also know as ‘beadboard’Low cost but not as sturdy or moisture resistant asExPS. Must be protected from sunlight. Of the twomain types of rigid polystyrene (XPS or EPS) EPS ismore environmentally benign.RigidPolyisocyanurate6.0-6.5/inchFoam boards with foil facing. 4x8,4x9 and 4x10 foot sheets.Thermax or R-max are common tradenames. Best R-value overall. Best choice formaximum insulation in a thin area such asrafters in a cathedral ceiling.Low Density SprayFoam3.8/inchYellowish, white foam that goes onwet and dries quickly. Expandsas it is applied.Excellent for sealing irregular gaps. Expands to fill thecavity, including the smallest cracks. Products range fromthose with a high content of toxic substances, to thosethat are water-blown and do not offgas, such as Includes“Icynene" and soy based foams.High DensitySpray Foam6.5/inchYellowish, white foam that goes onwet and dries quickly. Expandsas it is applied.Excellent for sealing irregular gaps. Includes“Corbond” and urethane.For more on selecting insulation materials, see the City of Vancouver’s Passive Design Toolkit for Homes, availablefor free download at vancouver.ca/sustainability9 green home renovation energy audit
2. InsulationWhat It IsInsulation slows the transfer of heat from the warm side to the cold side of a wall,ceiling or floor. Its purpose is to keep heat in during the winter and out during thesummer. Placing insulation between living spaces and unheated areas produces aprotective shell around your home. Insulation products are rated by their resistanceto heat flow, called R-Value. The higher the number, the more effective theinsulation and the lower your energy bills. Most homes in the Canada built beforethe 1970’s are poorly insulated, if at all. Modern energy codes require minimumlevels of insulation; in BC the BC Building Code specifies insulation values andenergy performance, while the City of Vancouver has additional by-laws which inmany instances exceed the provincial code (see side bar).How To Look For ItTo see if and how well your home is insulated you will be going to each area ofyour home’s envelope areas - walls, floors, ceilings - and looking at both the typeof insulation installed and its thickness. Some areas may be easy to see, such asinsulation in an attic space. In other areas such as walls, you will need to probebehind the surface.If you are unable to determine the insulation type and/or depth, such as in a flat roofor cantilevered ceiling, professional insulation contractors and energy raters will beable to investigate further with laser thermometers or an Infrared scanner. If your attichas no opening, you should make one yourself or have a contractor do it for you.WALLSLiving AreasYou can often check for wall insulation by looking inside wall cavities behindoutlet or switch covers. Make sure you choose walls next to the outside or nextto an unheated area and not walls between heated rooms. You can expectinsulation to be different in renovated areas, so be sure to include these as well.Before you begin, turn off electricity at the circuit breaker or fuse box. At eachof the exterior walls you will be investigating, use your screwdriver to remove thecover plates from an electrical outlet or light switch.1. Shine
natural gas customers can view their account information online at www.terasengas.com. Increasing numbers of homes in the Lower Mainland are installing water meters to measure their water usage and lower their bills. The City of Vancouver offers online billing information at vancouver.ca. 1 green home renovation energy audit
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