Pember Nature Preserve - Pember Library And Museum

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Pember Nature PreserveSpring MappingJosh DuncanSpring, 2020

Pember Nature PreserveS. Grimes Hill RoadoopdLWoodlanlTrailiratTarshesWlN.MiraTeMarsh Observation DeckidllsActivityAreaoolhBeaver DamTrailkopLoSouthkacBleeCrThe Pember Museum of Natural Historyouse lYHi

Natural CommunitiesUpland ForestsThere are four distinct upland (non-wetland) forest communities on the preserve. The twomost significant are a northern hardwood forest, which covers most of the hill slope in thewest portion of the preserve, and what I would describe as a red maple-white pine-oakforest on the flatter land in the east section of the preserve. In addition to these, there is asmall patch of dry oak-hickory forest at the very top of the hill in the far west of thepreserve, and a section of early successional forest, mostly enclosed within the south loop.There are likely a number of factors influencing the distribution of each community, but theprimary factors are topography, geology, and land use history. These forests, with theexception of the dry oak-hickory forest, occupy different temporal stages. The northernhardwood forest is composed primarily of tree species adapted for the conditions of amature forest. Species like sugar maple, hemlock, beech, and yellow birch grow slowly, arelong lived, and are capable of growing in the shade of a dense canopy.The patch of forest enclosed within the south loop is composed of tree species whose seedsdisperse quickly and opportunistically, though the trees themselves tend not to be longlived. Quaking aspen, willows, and grey birch seeds travel well on wind to colonize openland. The berries of redcedar and black cherry are brought in by birds. The tree species thatmake up the red maple-white pine-oak forest occupy a niche between the two.This is likely reflective of land use history. The more even topography in the east half of thepreserve probably remained cleared later than the hillside on the west half. The otherimportant factor here is geology. The most important indicator of this is the presence ofplant species on the hill slope that thrive in nutrient rich soil, which are absent east of themarsh. Trees like bitternut hickory and basswood are present and at times abundant, alongwith maidenhair fern and hepatica in the understory. This suggests that the soils on the hillslope are primarily till derived, while the soils of the lower terrain east of the marsh arealluvial in nature.It is not strictly a rule that soils derived from glacial till are rich in nutrients. Often, theopposite is true. As the name implies, till is formed as glaciers grind bedrock, mixingtogether mineral grains of a variety of sizes, ranging from sands to large cobbles. The tillsoils of our region are unique because of the abundance of calcium and magnesium richbedrock which, when crushed to till, offer those nutrients to plant life.

Northern Hardwood ForestThe northern hardwood forest can be thought of as a spectrum. On one end, there are nearpure hemlock stands, which are present in several places. These are typically cool, dampcoves. On the other end are stands of hardwoods that favor rich soils. Sugar maples,basswood, bitternut hickory, and white ash form the primary canopy species. Most of theforest grades between the two, depending on local conditions.Dominant species: Sugar MapleWhite AshHemlockBeech (this is an interesting case, it isn’t common in the overstory, but is by far themost common understory tree)Locally abundant species BasswoodBitternut HickoryYellow BirchBlack BirchRed OakHop-hornbeamShagbark HickoryAmerican ElmBigtooth AspenPaper BirchCommon Shrubs Hobblebush Striped Maple Maple-leaved Viburnum

Dry Oak-Hickory ForestAt the very top of the hill in the west half of the preserve, there is a small patch of dry oakhickory forest. These communities are common on low hilltops where soil is thin, warm,and prone to drought. Species that favor moist soils, like hemlock, are absent, favoringmore drought tolerant species. There are few shrubs present and the forest floor is coveredby a bed of sedges.Dominant species Red OakHop-hornbeamShagbark HickoryWhite OakLocally abundant species White ash Beech

Red Maple-White Pine-Oak ForestThe forest east of the Black Creek marsh blurs the distinction between wetland and upland.The topography here, especially in the northeast corner, provides much less relief to shedwater. Red maple is the ubiquitous tree of this forest type, whether wet or dry. There areareas of dense pinewoods in several areas of the preserve, likely where soil is particularlysandy. Where slate bedrock is close to the surface (which is frequently the case) and soilsare drier, red and white oak are abundant.Dominant species Red MapleWhite PineRed OakWhite OakMusclewoodBlack CherryLocally abundant species American ElmBeechHemlockShagbark HickoryWhite BirchQuaking AspenWhite AshCommon shrubs Nannyberry Witch Hazel Serviceberry

Early Successional ForestThere is a patch of very young forest within the south loop that is sufficiently large that I’vedecided to consider it a separate community, rather than a subset of the red maple-pineoak forest that surrounds it. Here, there is the almost complete absence of trees like redmaple, oaks, and ash trees that are typical of a maturing forest. In their place are stands ofpredominantly quaking aspen and grey birch, often bowed by wind and ice.Dominant species Quaking Aspen Grey BirchLocally abundant species RedcedarBlack CherryWillowsPaper BirchCommon shrubs Prickly Ash Japanese Honeysuckle (just about outcompetes everything else) Glossy Buckthorn

Pember Nature PreserveNorthern Hardwood ForestMost of the hillside west of the Black Creek marsh is covered bynorthern hardwood forest. A variety of hardwood trees make upthe overstory of these forests including sugar maple, white ash,and American beech. Many areas have quite rich, glacial till derivedsoils, indicated by local abundances of basswood and bitternuthickory as well as maidenhair fern and hepatica. Hemlockout-competes almost every other tree species on the coolest sitesforming high, cathedral-like canopies.Upland Forest CommunitiesoopdLWoodlanlTrailiratTTrailHillsRed Maple-White Pine-Oak ForestThese communities dominate areas of dry land in the easternportion of the preserve, where the forests are generally young andsoils are sandy and alluvial in nature. Red maple is the mostabundant overstory tree, particularly on wetter sites. Oaks, both redand white are abundant where soils are well drained. White pineforms near pure stands in several areas of the preserve, notably inthe northeast corner along the woodland loop trail. Commonunderstory shrubs include serviceberry, nannyberry, and musclewood.ouse ry Oak-Hickory ForestAt the very top of the hill, the forestopens into a more sparse, open woodland.Red oak, shagbark hickory, andhop-hornbeam are the most abundanttree species. Grass-like sedges cover theforest loor, taking advantage of sunlightin absence of any signi icant shrub layer.These communities are common on lowhilltops, where soils are thin and proneto drought.ideTrailN.MarshesWBeaver DamTrailkopLoSoBluthackeeCrEarly Successional ForestThere is a pocket of very young forest mostly contained within thesouth loop. This patch of forest was likely the most recent patch ofland converted to woods. The tree species here are short lived withseeds that disperse easily. Grey birch and quaking aspen have seedsthat travel well on the wind, while redcedar and black cherry seedsare brought in by birds.The Pember Museum of Natural History

WetlandsThe wetlands are the central feature of the preserve. The emergent marsh of the BlackCreek is the largest natural community, and perhaps the most spectacular. There arehowever, many other, smaller wetlands in addition to the marsh. Each varies in thepresence of and depth of standing water, as well as movement of water through thesubstrate. Though the species assemblage of each are similar, they are visually quitedifferent.Emergent MarshThe largest wetland feature on the preserve is the marsh of the Black Creek. Marshes aredefined as wetland with an inflow and an outflow and lacking in large trees. Rather, themarsh varies between thickets of speckled alder, pussy willow, and dogwood, andhummocky tussock grasses. Beavers likely play an important role in maintaining a diversityof habitats in the marsh by encouraging a dynamic flood regime. There is a patchwork ofmicrohabitats within the marsh, critical for biodiversity.Dominant species Speckled AlderSilky DogwoodWillows (at least three different species, though difficult to identify)Red MapleLocally abundant species Nannyberry Winterberry Holly Arrowwood viburnum

Red Maple SeepIn several section of the preserve, the water table is high enough to permanently saturatesoils within the surrounding red maple-white pine-oak forest. There are many smallstreams running through these communities, but very little standing water otherwise. Redmaples, which are well adapted for wet soils, are the most dominant overstory tree with adiverse understory of shrub species. The floor of these seeps is covered in mosses andferns, particularly sensitive fern.Dominant species Red MapleAmerican ElmWinterberry HollyNannyberryLocally Abundant Species ArrowwoodSpeckled AlderSilky DogwoodWitch HazelMusclewood

Alder SwampThis community is restricted to a small valley on the northern border of the preserve. It isvery similar to the plant communities that occupy the edges of the Black Creek marsh, butis separated by two fingers of dry land, crossed by the west trail. This wet valley is coveredby tall shrubs, with few trees extending above them.Dominant Species Speckled Alder Nannyberry Winterberry HollyLocally abundant species American ElmRed MapleSilky DogwoodPussy Willow

Vernal PoolsEast of the south loop, there is what I would describe as a complex of vernal pools. When Ivisited them in March there was relatively deep standing water but it appears that this isephemeral. The edges of these pools are hugged by shrubs, but open water is preserved atthe center. These provide excellent breeding habitat for amphibians.Dominant species (limited to the immediate area of the pools) Winterberry Holly Speckled Alder Silky DogwoodLocally abundant species Pussy Willow Nannyberry American Elm

Pember Nature PreserveWetland CommunitiesoopdLWoodlanAlder SwampThis natural community covers a wet basin in the north of thepreserve. The water table is too high for taller tree species, butdoes provide habitat for a variety of shrub species. Speckled alder,pussy willow, and nannyberry form a thicket dissected by smallstreams. A narrow opening crossed by the west trail provides anoutlet into the larger Black Creek marsh.lTrailiratTideTrailN.MarshesWBeaver DamTraile TrailkopLouthBlackeeCrSoEmergent MarshThe emergent marsh, which is at the centerof the preserve, can be thought of as amosaic of many sub-habitats. Rivers likethe Black Creek are constantly changing,especially given the presence of beavers.Depending on local conditions, stands ofred maple, thickets of willows, dogwoods,and alder; and tussock grasses and cattailsare all very common stTrailHillsRed Maple SeepThere are several spots on the preserve where groundwatersaturates the soil forming red maple seeps. Red maple isparticularly well adapted for these conditions. One of the mostnotable features of this natural community is its diversity of shrubspecies. Arrowwood and winterberry holly are common as wellas witch-hazel, dogwoods, and speckled alder.Vernal PoolsThere are two, or perhaps more accurately described as a complex ofvernal pools on the east side of the south loop. There is standingwater in the spring, when they provide breeding habitat for a varietyof amphibians. Winterberry holly and speckled alder hug theedges of these pools.The Pember Museum of Natural History

On the History of SlateLet's take a trip backwards through time. Twelve thousand years ago vast ice sheetsretreated north for the final time, leaving a landscape deeply altered. The often repeatedline that it was these glaciers that brought Himalayan peaks down to the rolling hills androunded mountains that we know today is not true, at least not entirely. A story that bringsmountains rivaling the Alps down to a flat plain, and back up again, requires a morecomplicated telling than ice alone can tell.500 million years ago, what would become North America sat near the equator. Geologistsrefer to this place and time as Laurentia, in the early Ordovician period. Though terrestriallife had not yet evolved, life in the shallow seas of the continental shelf flourished. Aconstant supply of microscopic skeletons formed calcium mucks in the warm water. Sands,silts, and clays eroded off the land above and were deposited by waves and rivers.Of these, clay is unique both because of the size and shape of its grains. Clay particles areextremely small, less than two micrometers. Much smaller than sand or silt. Sand and siltare similar in that they are made up of hard minerals like quartz and feldspar. Clay on theother hand, is made of crystals that form in sheets. When these crystals are large enough tosee, they are often referred to as mica.You may be familiar with mica as large, papery crystals found in mountain top rockoutcrops. Maybe you remember pulling off sheets with your fingers. A quartz crystal,kicked free by a passing deer or cracked away by ice, hardly changes at all as it washes intoa stream, then a river and down to the coast, deposited as beach sand. Imagine that sheet ofmica, so fragile you could easily crush it between two fingers, on that same journey. Withevery river bend and rapid it breaks down into smaller and smaller flakes. Imagine howsmall it is by the time it finds its way to the ocean.Those clays, and for that matter the sands, silts, and calcium mucks, were buried under anincreasing weight of new sediment. Under such pressure sediments harden into rock.Sands become sandstone, calcium mucks become limestone, and clay becomes shale. Thosetiny clay minerals are preserved in the shale, all oriented in the same direction. Flip a coin.Chances are that it doesn’t land on its edge. It lands on one of its faces. Flip another coin,and another. Soon you have a pile of quarters all lying flat. Just like a flipped quarter, theclay minerals all fell to the bottom of the shallow sea and lay flat. Like sheets of mica, youcan break a piece of shale along those faces.As it happens though, you can’t pick up this shale. This shale spent its life undisturbed,buried deep beneath layer upon layer of younger rock as Laurentia drifted northward.

Undisturbed, that is, until a volcanic island chain similar to Japan, collided with thecontinent’s east coast. The force of this collision raised what would become the TaconicMountains of New York and Vermont. Rocks of the island chain, Laurentia, as well as thesedimentary rock of the sea formerly between the two got exposed to intense heat andpressure. Our shale never made it up into those lofty peaks, but rather got buried deep inthe heart of them. In such extreme environments, those original clay minerals crystallizedand formed stronger, tighter bonds with the crystals around them, reorienting themselvesas they were compressed.Some shales get heated and compressed to such extremes that the crystals grow enough tosee with your eye, or even big enough to peel apart with your fingers. These however, didnot. Just as they metamorphosed from shale to slate, the mountain building of the Taconicceased, and Laurentia continued its drift north.Laurentia continued to be subjected to similar collisions for millions of years, raising theGreen Mountains and then the main belt of the Appalachians as high as the Alps. Theworld's continents converged forming the supercontinent Pangaea, around 350 millionyears ago. The slate, though, remained far enough removed from such events to remainunchanged, and far enough below to remain uneroded.Slate of course is known and valued for its ability to break into clean, hard sheets. Equallyimpressive though, is its spectacular colors. Depending on the chemical composition of theoriginal clay and the conditions it was deposited in, slate can be a wide variety of colors.Some of the oldest slates in our area, the purple and green Mettowee slate has very lowiron content and was deposited in conditions with little oxygen, likely in deep water.Magnesium rich micas like chlorite give this slate its green color. As time went on claysmixed with rich black organic material as the water shallowed, forming the dark Poultneyslate. The youngest of our slates, the Indian river slate, is rich in iron oxidized by abundantoxygen in very shallow water, perhaps even at times above the surface. These slates are adeep red.By the time Pangaea began to split 150 million years ago, forming the continents we knowtoday, that great mountain range forming its spine had eroded to a flat plain. Ourmountains, for the time being, did not exist at al. As North America drifted north though,the eastern edge began to tip back up, exposing the folds and faults of the originalmountains. The Appalachians rose again, not as towering peaks, but as rounded mountainsand hills, bringing limestone, marble, and slate to the surface.

Pember Nature Preserve Indian RiverSlate (Re d)Poultney(Blac Slatek)Me(Gre ttawee Sen and P lateurple)Slate FormationsJosh DuncanFebruary 20th, 202002505001,000 FeetGPS track of trail system

The Pember Museum of Natural History. Wetlands . The wetlands are the central feature of the preserve. The emergent marsh of the Black Creek is the largest natural community, and perhaps the most spectacu

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