Jeff Branch WOODWORKING

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Jeff BranchYOU CAN BUILD ABy adding subtle design elements, atraditional furniture style becomesdecidedly modern.WOODWORKING

Jeff BranchWOODWORKINGPublisher: Jeff BranchEditor: Jeff BranchArt Direction: Jeff BranchContributing Editor: Jeff BranchIllustration: Jeff BranchMarketing: Jeff BranchBasically, I created this document all by myself.******On the cover: The design for this cupboardstarted as a traditional, sort of primitive form,but changed when I added the detail at thebottom of the face frame center stile. Thatshape, which I like a lot, struck me as beingmore modern. Then the subtle curve of the feetwas meant to be minimalistic and the designmorphed further from there.contentsMain Dimensions3Cut List4Build the Case7Make the Face Frame10Build the Drawers14Door Construction19Final Assembly24Plywood Cutting Diagram302 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen CupboardThe doors and drawer fronts are illustrated withbirdseye maple. This wood strikes me as beingperfectly at home in a modern design. The graypaint retains a primitive quality, but also isminimalistic since it hides the wood grainunderneath. The cherry drawer pulls aredefinitely modern in design as is the moldingbelow the cupboard top which is made from flatstock. One last modern detail: the top extendsbeyond the sides more than it does the front(easily seen on the cover) which is not atraditional detail, and the top ends are curved.

main dimensions 2017 Jeff Branch3 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

construction methodsCenter stile joinsthe face frame byway of lap joints.Blue highlighted areasshow examples of thejoinery used duringconstruction.The case and crossmembers/shelves cometogether via dados. Backslats fit into rabbets ateach side rear edge.Face frame joinery ismortise and tenon,except for the centerstile.Drawers slide inplace with help fromblocking whichserves as guides.4 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

construction methodsThe door rails and stilescome together withmortise and tenon joinery.Mortise locations in thestiles are highlighted inblue.The door panel israised on the back.See the illustrationon page 2.The door panelfloats in a groovemilled in the railsand stiles(highlighted inblue).The drawer face isattached to thedrawer box withscrews.The drawer box isjoined at the cornerswith dowels and glue.5 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

cutlistCaseID QtyA 2B 3C 1D 1E 2F 2G 4DescriptionCase SideCross MemberSub-TopTopShelfShelf BandingDrawer KickerLength x width x thickness60-1/4 x 16-3/4 x 3/4”37-1/4 x 15-7/8 x 3/4”37-1/4 x 15-7/8 x 3/4”42-1/2 x 18-1/2 x 3/4”37-1/4 x 15-1/8 x 3/4”37-1/4 x 1/4 x 3/4”15-7/8 x 3/4 x 1/8”Face FrameH 2 Face Frame StileI 1 Face Frame Center StileJ 1 Face Frame Bottom RailK 2 Face Frame Drawer RailL 1 Face Frame Top Rail60-1/4 x 3-3/4 x 3/4”57-1/4 x 2 x 3/4”32-1/2 x 1-3/4” x 3/4”32-1/2 x 1 x 3/4”32-1/2 x 1-3/4” x 3/4”DrawersM 12 Drawer Blocking 1N 2 Drawer Blocking 2O 4 Drawer Blocking 3P 8 Drawer SideQ 4 Drawer FrontR 4 Drawer BackS 4 Drawer BottomT 4 Drawer FaceU 4 PullV 48 Dowel Pin15-5/8 x 2-3/8 x 3/4”15-7/8 x 3/4 x 3/4”14 x 2-3/8 x 3/4”15 x 6 x 1/2”13 x 6 x 3/4”13 x 5-1/2 x 3/4”14-1/2 x 13-1/2 x 1/4”14-1/4 x 6 x 3/4”3 x 7/8 x 3/8”1/4” round x 1” lengthDoorsW 2X 2Y 4Z 239 x 2-1/8 x 3/4”39 x 2-1/2 x 3/4”11-1/4 x 2-1/2 x 3/4”34-3/4 x 10 x 3/4”Door Stile 1Door Stile 2Door RailDoor PanelAAABACAD2211PullDoor OffsetCatch Blocking 1Catch Blocking 23 x 7/8 x 3/8”39 x 3/4 x 3/8”7 x 1-3/4 x 3/4”7 x 1-3/4 x 1/2”Outer SlatInner Slat60-1/4 x 4-1/2 x 3/4”56-1/2 x 5 x 3/4”MiscellaneousAG 2 Shelf SupportAH 2 Top Molding SideAI 1 Top Molding Front1-1/2 x 1-3/8 x 3/4”17-3/4 x 5/8 x 1/4”38-1/2 x 5/8 x 1/4”BackAE 2AF 6With the drawer kicker, part G being so thin, I consider this part optional and apersonal preference. If you don’t want your drawers to tip down as they are pulledout, use them. If a little downward movement is OK, then omit them.Sand all parts as you progress through the plan. Also consider adding finish toparts like the interior of the case sides as well as cross members, sub top, shelvesand door panels prior to assembly.A Note About Workshop SafetyBe sure to understand and practice safe workshop proceedures. Know and implement thesafety instructions provided by your tool manufacturer. Wear eye and ear protection whenappropriate and protect yourself from the fine dust generated by woodworking tools.Never become complacent with your tools. They are potentially dangerous; use them withrespect.6 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

build the caseBegin construction by making the casesides, parts A. Cut the sides to final sizeand begin fabricating the shelf and crossmember dados as well as the sub-top andback rabbets. Their locations are shown inillustration 7A.See 7BIllustration 7B shows dimensions for thesub top and back rabbets. Dados for theshelves and cross members are 1/2” x3/8” deep.Shelf dadosare stopped1/2” fromfront edge.Form the feet by cutting away the archedopening. See the detailed view in 7C.Adjustable ShelvesAAn alternate to fixed shelves is to makethe Modern Kitchen Cupboard withadjustable shelves.All dados are1/2” inheight and3/8” deep.7BCase Side60-1/4 x16-3/4 x 3/4”I use the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig when addingadjustable shelves to furniture projects. 2017 Jeff BranchGrid isspaced in1/2”increments.7C7A7 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

BCross Member37-1/4 x15-7/8 x 3/4”See 8BESelf37-1/4 x15-1/8 x 3/4”CSub-Top37-1/4 x15-7/8 x 3/4”F8AShelf Banding37-1/4 x1/4 x 3/4”Create cross members, shelves and sub-top, parts B, C and E as shown. Parts B and E need a tenon oneach end as shown in 8B. No tenon for part C.Tenon onthe ends ofB and E are1/2 x 3/8”Using a router equipped with a 1/2” straight cutting bit, form the tenons. Take off a little material withmultiple passes with the router until you have a snug fit with the dados in the case sides, parts A (see 7A).If making the shelves out of plywood, add shelf banding, part F to each shelf. Attach with glue and brads.Trim part F to be flush with the shelf.Finally, pre-drill for pocket screws in parts B and C. For part C, the pocket screw hole is on the top surface,and on all of parts B, the pocket screw holes are on the bottom surface (indicated in blue).8 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard8B 2017 Jeff Branch

CAll dados are1/2” inheight and3/8” deep.ASub-Top37-1/4 x15-7/8 x 3/4”Case SideEShelf37-1/4 x15-3/8 x 3/4”9BGDrawer Kicker15-7/8 x3/4 x 1/8”Next, we’ll begin case glue-up accomplishing this insteps.The sub-top isjoined to thecase sides withbrads and glue.See illustration28A for more.See 9BCreate the drawerkickers as shown(highlighted in blue)and add them asshown using bradsand glue. Do thisprior to case glueup.BCross Member37-1/4 x15-7/8 x 3/4”ACase SidePocket screw holes onparts B face down.9A - Case shown back facing up.9 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen CupboardFirst, add glue to the tenons on the left end of eachcross member, parts B. Position them in theircorresponding dado in the left side, part A, (see 9B;the case is viewed from the back). Slide the right sidein place without glue, clamp and allow the glue to dry.Once dry and since the right side did not get glue,remove it and move to the next step.Second, add glue to the left end on both shelves,parts E; slide them into their dadoes in the left side.Position the right side in place, no glue. Clamp andallow the glue to dry. Remove the right side.Next, add glue to the right ends of parts B and E.Position the right side in place. Clamp and allow theglue to dry.Lastly, add glue to both ends of the sub top, part C.Position it in place. Drive brands through each caseside into part C. Clamp and let dry.

make the face frameThe top edge of the drawer rails, parts J, and thebottom rail, part I, are meant to fit flush with the topsurface of the cross members parts B.Note: Thesecomponentsshould fit flush attheir top with thecorrespondingcase crossmembers.One note: On page 11 and in the cutlist, the faceframe stiles, parts G, are shown final size. To ensureyour face frame fits the cupboard case, it is best tomake the face frame slightly wider than need be(about 1/8” each side) and then trim it to fit flushwith the case sides, parts A. So, when making partsG, take the width shown and add 1/8”. Then trimthis away after you attach the face frame to thecase. This can be easily accomplished by using arouter equipped with a flush trim bit.10A10 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard 2017 Jeff BranchThe face frame features joinery which can be alittle challenging: mortise and tenons. Also, lap jointsare used with the center stile, but lap joints arepretty easy to make. Of course, the whole faceframe can be assembled using pocket screws, butgaining more experience with mortise and tenonjoinery is always a good thing.

Note: Cut the footarch (highlighted inyellow) after you cutthe mortises. Notethe foot dimensionsand follow the shapeshown in 7C.This mortise (highlighted in blue)is 3/8 x 1-1/4 and 1” deep.Tenons on part K are 3/8x 1-1/4” and 1” long.3/4”G3/4”Face Frame Stile60-1/4 x3-3/4 x 3/4”Make two.1-1/4”These mortisesare 3/8 x 3/4”and 1” deep.KFace FrameTop Rail32-1/2 x1-3/4” x 3/4”Lap joint on parts Jis 2 x 1” and 3/8”deep.JThis mortise is 3/8 x1-1/4 and 1” deep.Face FrameDrawer Rail32-1/2 x1 x 3/4”I11ALap joint on partK is 2 x 1-3/4”and 3/8” deep.Face FrameBottom Rail32-1/2 x1-3/4” x 3/4”Lap joint on part Iis 2 x 1-3/4” and3/8” deep.11 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen CupboardTenons on part Jare 3/8 x 3/4”and 1” long.Tenons on part I are 3/8 x1-1/4” and 1” long.

Lap jointhere is 2 x1-3/4” and3/8” deep.12B12A1”Begin work on the face frame by cuttingthe face frame stiles, parts G, to finallength and width. Cut mortises as shownin 11A and then shape the foot as shownon page 11 following the profile in 7C.Cut the rails, parts I, J and K, to size;create tenons on each end as seen onpage 11. Add the lap joints.Create the face frame center stile, part Has shown in 12A. Cut part H to final lengthand width, create the lap joints and shapethe lower end as shown in 12B. Thissubtle curve is the same radius as on theleg cut out seen in 7C.1”HFace FrameCenter Stile57-1/4 x2 x 3/4”Lap jointsare 2 x 1” and3/8” deep.Lap joint here is 2 x1-3/4” and 3/8” deep.12 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

Complete the face frame by gluingall the components together.KJust as with the case glue-up, do adry run of fitting all the partstogether. Position clamps so you willknow ahead of time what to expect.When you are happy how all thevarious parts fit together begin glueup.Face FrameTop RailGFace FrameStileFirst, with glue, position the tenons ofthe four rails into their mortises in theleft stile, part G.Add glue to the right side tenons andmortises, then slide the right stile intoplace. Add clamps and pull everythingtight. Make sure the face frame issquare.HFace FrameCenter StileFinally add the center stile, part H byspreading glue in the lap joinery andclamping to the face frame rails.Attach the completed face frame tothe cupboard case by spreading gluealong the front edge of the casesides, crossmembers and sub-top.Lay the face frame onto the cupboardcase making sure the drawer railsand bottom rail align with the casecross members.Since we made the face frame a littlewider than need be, trim away anyexcess with on the face frame stileswith a router equipped with a flushcutting bit.13AGFace FrameStileIJFace FrameBottom RailFace FrameDrawer Rail13 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

build the drawersThe drawers are next. These drawers are simple boxesand in this example, with dowel pin joinery, construction issolid and easy. You could use dovetail joinery in place ofthe dowel pins or other method of your choosing, butthese dowel pined box corners are quick, decorative andwork amazingly well.All four drawers are identical making a production styleconstruction set-up possible. The drawer boxes have anapplied “drawer face” shown in birdseye maple withmodern, shop made drawer pulls in an alternative woodspecies such as the cherry shown. 2017 Jeff BranchFirst we will need to add the drawer guides and drawerkicker which will help establish the width, height anddepth of the drawers. Let’s get started.Doors and drawers are inset 1/8”from the face frame.14A14B14 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

ONDrawerBlocking 314 x 2-3/8x 3/4”DrawerBlocking 215-7/8 x 3/4x 3/4”M 2017 Jeff BranchDrawerBlocking 115-5/8 x2-3/8 x 3/4”Note: Pocket screwholes.15A - View from the back.In this step, we will add drawer guides so the drawers have a fixed space to slide into. Irecommend these components be made from a good quality plywood so there is littlechance of expansion and contraction with changes in humidity.Cut all parts to final size and sand as needed to get a smooth surface for the drawers tomove against. Position these various parts as shown above and make sure the fit issatisfactory. You will need to position the rear edge of drawer blocking 1, parts M flush withthe rear edge of the cross members as shown above. The same goes for parts N as well asparts O.Glue and brad together the drawer blocking 1 making the L shape shown and then glue andclamp them in place on their corresponding cross members. Next, cut and position theremaining blocking making adjustments as needed. Glue and clamp in place the remainingblocking. Add pocket screws to drawer blocking 3, parts O.15 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

3/8”3/8”1”2”PDrawer Side15 x 6x 1/2”Dowel holes are1/4” round.2”1”16AHighlighted area showsa 1/4” tall by 1/4”deep dado.UPull3 x 7/8 x3/8”This imageis full size.Before we get started milling drawer parts, lets look at two components in detail: a drawer side and a drawer pull.Note the dowel holes in the drawer side, part P shown above. The material between the dowel hole and the end of the boardneeds to be as strong as possible, so I like using a hardwood here. I have illustrated the image above with red oak. Thesedrawer sides are 1/2” thick and most home centers will carry 1/2” red oak which is convenient. The highlighted blue strip isthe location of a 1/4 x 1/4” dado for the drawer bottom, also seen in illustration 17A.The profile of the drawer pulls, parts U is shown in illustration 16B. It is illustrated in cherry and note the grain direction. Thepull is shown full size making it easy to copy.Other options for modern drawer and door pulls would be items #1006760, #1006956 or #1007414 at Rockler.com.16 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard16B 2017 Jeff Branch1/4”

QRDrawer Back13 x 5-1/2 x3/4”Drawer Front13 x 6 x 3/4”SUPull3 x 7/8 x 3/8”Drawer Bottom14-1/2 x 13-1/2x 1/4”PDrawer Side15 x 6 x 1/2”17AVDowel Pins1/4” round x 1” lengthDados are 1/4 x 1/4”and located 1/4” fromcomponent’s lower edge.TDrawer Face14-1/4 x 6 x3/4”Note component sizes above and in the cutlist. These dimensions are based mostly onthe face frame drawer opening and should be considered a starting point for determiningfinal drawer size. In reality, you want your drawer sides, back, front and drawer face to beslightly smaller than their corresponding drawer opening. But not much smaller: for thedrawer box (drawer box the drawer without the drawer face), 1/8” smaller in final heightand about 1/16” or less in width. Compare the cutlist component size with your face frameopening and cupboard depth. Make needed adjustments in component size and cutcomponents as shown above. Remember the drawer face is inset from the face frame by1/8” (see 14B).the drawer sides. Position a drawer front with a drawer side and securely clamp in place.Drill 1/4” holes through the drawer side and into the drawer front. Drill to a depth of oneinch (you will drill to 1/2” into the drawer front). Repeat for the remaining corners.Bring together the components to form one drawer box corner. Mark dowel hole locations onWe’ll add the drawer face and pulls on page 18.Begin assembly by joining one corner with 1/4” dowels. Test fit a dowel and sand as neededto get a snug fit. Add glue and tap the dowels in place. Repeat for the three remainingcorners. Add clamps and allow the glue to set. Then, trim the dowels flush and slide thedrawer bottom in place. Note that the drawer back sits on top of the drawer bottom. Securethe drawer bottom to the drawer back with a small screw.17 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

Last up for drawer construction: add thedrawer pull to the drawer face, and attach thedrawer face to the drawer box.Access holesfor drawer pullscrews.Temporarily place a spacer (example: a businesscard) on the face frame rail as shown,highlighted in yellow. Trim the drawer face, partT, to fit the drawer opening with an even gap onall drawer face edges.Use a spacer tohelp position thedrawer face.QAfter fitting the drawer face, add double sidedtape to the back of the drawer face and pressinto place against the drawer box. Drive screwsfrom the back of the drawer front, part Q andinto the drawer face (shown in illustration 17A).Remove the screws, remove the drawer faceand peel away the double sided tape. Re-attachthe drawer face to the drawer box.DrawerFrontMark the location of the pull, part U. Drill pilotholes for screws used to attach the pull. Drillfrom the drawer face through the drawer front.This gives you the location of the screws in thedrawer front. Remove the drawer face. 2017 Jeff BranchUsing these screw locations, drill a larger holejust in the drawer front, large enough to provideaccess to the pull screws should you ever needto tighten them in the future. Position the pulland pre-drill screw holes in the pull. Attach thedrawer pull and then attach the drawer face tothe drawer box.Double sided tapeapplied to the backof the drawer face.TDrawer Face14-1/4 x 6 x3/4”Repeat for the remaining three drawers. Using asander or hand plane, remove material from thedrawer sides as needed to get a good drawer fit.UPull, 3 x 7/8 x 3/8”18A18 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen Cupboard

door constructionYBefore we get to work on the doors, afew notes:1)Just as with the drawers, the doorsare inset from the face frame by1/8”. When open, the doors will notlay flat against the face frame.2)To help give the doors more swing,there is a spacer strip which thedoors/hinges mount to. I call this parta door offset in the cut list.3)The door panel is flat on the front, buthas a raised back seen in theillustration on both pages 2 and 22. Ifyou prefer a flat back, you will need tomill stock to 1/4” thick.4)I call for mortise and tenon joinery forthe door frame, but you could alsouse dowel joinery, domino, etc.Door Rail11-14 x 2-1/2 x 3/4”Make two per door.Mortise andtenon joinery.AAPull3 x 7/8x 3/8”Door panel fitsinto a groove.Turn the page and let’s make some doors.ZDoor Panel34-3/4 x 10x 3/4”WDoor Stile 139 x 2-1/8x 3/4”XDoor Stile 239 x 2-1/2x 3/4”19A19 - You Can Build A Modern Kitchen CupboardDoor pulls arethe same size asthe drawer pulls.

Door construction begins with the addition of the door offsets, parts AB. Thesecomponents are what the doors are actually mounted to. Because the doors arerecessed 1/8” from the outer surface of the face frame, these slender spacer stripsenable the doors to swing wider before they make contact with the face frame. Thedoor offsets should be made from the same wood species as the doors.AB 2017 Jeff BranchDoor Offset39 x 3/4X 3/8”Make two.Cut parts AB to final size. Next locate the position for the hinges. I have illustratedthis plan with 2-1/2” hinges. Anything of similar size will work. Chisel a recess forhinges as shown (two per door).Next, mount the door offset to the cupboard face frame as shown setting it back1/8”. Attach with brads along with plenty of glue and clamps. We want an especiallygood bond here.Having the door offset attached will help us determine the final size of the doors.Note how partAB is recessed1/8”. Also seethe h

Jeff Branch WOODWORKING Publisher: Jeff Branch Editor: Jeff Branch Art Direction: Jeff Branch Contributing Editor: Jeff Branch Illustration: Jeff Branch Marketing: Jeff Branch Basically, I created this document all by myself. ***** On the cover: The design for this cupboard started as a traditional, sort of primitive form,

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