Patek Philippe Watches Volume Ii
patek philippe watchesVolume ii
Vol ume i iChronometers9Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detentand Spring Detent Escapement, 1850 –199411Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 – 195921Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent,Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, Tourbillon Regulator and Karussel, 1892 – 198351Pocket Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent,and Lever Escapement, with Horological Complications, 1845 – 199763Marine Chronometer, Precision Clocks and Wrist Chronometers,Spring Detent and Lever Escapement, Lever Escapement and Tourbillon, 1895 – 198771Art Nouveau and Art Deco85Watches made for Gondolo & Labouriau121Watches made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves, Jr.141Watches made for James Ward Packard, 1918 – 1927143Watches made for Henry Graves, Jr., 1919 – 1948153Wristwatches without Complications175Wristwatches with Complications255Wrist Chronographs, 1924 – 1966257Split-Seconds Wrist Chronographs, 1923 – 1970273Calendar Wristwatches, 1926 – 2002279Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Wristwatches, 1942 – 1989301Repeating Wristwatches, 1901 – 20003135
The Calatrava Cross, Emblem of Patek Philippe327World Time and Jump Hour Watches and Louis Cottier Prototypes337Cloisonné Enamel, Painted on Enamel, and Engraved Watches355Watches with cloisonné enamel and Painted on enamel Dials, 1940 – 1966357Painted on enamel and engraved Pocket Watches, 1955 – 1988367Clocks and Dome Clocks391Commemorative Watches, Calibre 89 and Star Caliber 2000413commemorative Watches415calibre 89427Star Caliber 2000435Glossary443Watchmakers in this Catalogue449Several Important Exhibitions453Works Cited and Reference Books455Colophon458
chronometers
The invention of the balance spring in 1675 greatly improved the regularity of timepiecesand made horology a science. Maritime nations were aware of the need for precise anddependable watches in order to determine the position of a ship at sea. Without precisetimekeepers, long sea voyages were fraught with danger. After the 1707 shipwreck in theIsles of Scilly, in which an entire fleet of four vessels and the lives of over one thousandfour hundred sailors were lost, the British Parliament offered a “Longitude Prize”. Thus,a reward was to be given to anyone who found a dependable and effective method ofdetermining longitude at sea.Many took up the challenge, among them John Harrison (1693 – 1776), John Arnold(1736 – 1799), Thomas Earnshaw (1749 – 1829) and Thomas Mudge (1715 – 1794) in England.Mudge constructed the first watch with a lever escapement, which would later beuniversally adopted. Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717 – 1785), who in 1748 invented the detentescapement used in modern chronometers, and Neuchâtel native Ferdinand Berthoud(1727 – 1807) also carried out research that would contribute to the development of averitable industry.The timepieces in this chapter are arranged according to type: for example, pocketand deck chronometers and wrist chronometers, as well as by their type of escapement(spring detent escapement, pivoted detent escapement, lever escapement).By the late 18th century, timing contests had begun to be held, in which marine, ship,and pocket chronometers were scientifically examined in specialised laboratories andastronomical observatories. The timepieces were issued a Bulletin de marche (Ratingcertificate) and the most precise among them received prizes and special mentions.These included the “record de pièce” that was awarded to the pieces that obtained thebest results ever achieved at the Geneva Observatory.Patek Philippe watches took part in these national and international contests, achievingremarkable results.
Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement,Isochronous Helical Balance Spring, Power Reserve, Fusee and ChainPatek, Philippe & cie, Genève, No. 65 852Open-faced, key winding and setting, with thefollowing complication:– Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock)silver case, yellow gold pendant neck, hinge and lipWhite enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockGold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoisedseconds handMovement 20’’’, ¾ plate, Piguet Frères ebauche,nickeled, with fusee and chain, 32-hour powerreserve, spring detent escapement, crankedcompensation balance with gold timing screws,isochronous helical balance spring with terminalcurves, diamond endstone, adjusted by masteradjuster Alexis Favre (1885)1884 –1885Inv. P-1059H. 81.3 mm / 55 mm / thickness 17.4 mmCHRONOMETERSDelivered on May 29, 1885, to H. Müller & Co.,Patek Philippe agents in Shanghai.This watch’s movement was probably madeusing an ebauche from the Victorin Piguet & Filsworkshop, purchased on July 7, 1884. Thechronometer was finished on May 27, 1885.It is one of a very few pocket chronometers withfusee and chain ever produced by the company;three are currently known to exist:– No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement(Inv. P-1332, movement only).– No. 65 852, with spring detent escapement (theabove watch).– No. 65 859, with spring detent escapement(Inv. P-1058, p. 69, watch with severalhorological complications).
Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement,Isochronous Helical Balance Spring and Power ReservePatek, Philippe & cie, Genèvehunter case, stem winding and setting, with thefollowing complication:– Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock)Yellow gold case, No. 218 846White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockGold Poire hands; counterpoised gold seconds handMovement No. 90 534, 20’’’, Ambroise Duretebauche, gilt, jewels in gold chatons, spring detentescapement, cranked compensation balance withPocket and Deck Chronometers,Pivoted Detent and Spring Detent Escapement, 1850–1994gold and platinum timing screws, and isochronouspalladium helical balance spring with terminal curves1894 –1897Inv. P-293H. 79.3 mm / 56.2 mm / thickness 18 mmThis chronometer was in the collection of actorMichel Simon.The front and back covers are engraved in avermicelli pattern; the former has a plain circle inits centre.17
Deck Chronometer with Lever EscapementPatek, Philippe & cie, GenèveResults of 1922 Observatory TrialsOpen-faced, stem winding and setting––––Yellow gold case, No. 411 898White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockBlued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoisedseconds handMovement No. 191 390, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie andVictorin Piguet & cie ebauche, gilt, “Extra” quality,raised bridge for the centre and third wheels, centrewheel with jewel in gold chaton, counterpoisedstraight line lever escapement, Guillaume balanceand balance spring with terminal curve, diamondendstone, adjusted by master adjuster FrançoisModoux (1922 and 1923)1919 –1924Inv. P-1588H. 83.3 mm / 60.1 mm / thickness 17.8 mmAt the 1922 timing contest of the GenevaObservatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletinde Première Classe” with Honourable mention.CHRONOMETERSMean daily rate /- 0.15Mean variation due to a position change /- 0.97Compensation error (for 1 centigrade) /- 0.031Resumption of the rate 0.02At the 1923 timing contest of the GenevaObservatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletinde Première Classe” with First Prize mention.Results of 1923 Observatory Trials– Mean daily rate /- 0.09– Mean variation due to a position change /- 0.48– Compensation error (for 1 centigrade) /- 0.017
Jump Hour Deck Chronometer with Lever Escapement and Power ReservePatek, Philippe & cie, GenèveResults of Observatory TrialsOpen-faced, stem winding and setting, jump hours inan aperture at 12 o’clock and central minutes, withthe following complication:– Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock)– Arithmetical sum of the 40 variations of the dailyrate 8.72– Arithmetical sum of the 6 position variations 1.36– Compensation error (for 1 centigrade) 0.029– Resumption of the rate - 0.62Yellow gold case, No. 412 304Cream-coloured enamel dial, regulator type,painted arabic numerals for the hours and minutes,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockThis appears to be the only jump hour chronometerwith power reserve produced by Patek Philippe.Blued steel Breguet minute hand; blued steelcounterpoised seconds handMovement No. 191 439, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie andVictorin Piguet & cie ebauche, rhodium-plated,“Extra” quality, raised bridge for the centre andthird wheels, counterpoised straight line leverescapement, Guillaume balance and Breguetbalance spring, eight adjustments, adjusted bymaster adjuster François Modoux (1924, 1925,1928 and 1930)1919 –1926Inv. P-163H. 81.9 mm / 59.7 mm / thickness 16.9 mmThis chronometer was never sold.At the 1930 timing contest of the GenevaObservatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletinde Première Classe” with Second Prize mention(category A: deck chronometers; size: 50 mm).Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 –195947
Quarter Repeating Pocket Chronometerwith Pivoted Detent EscapementPatek & cie, Genève, No. 1129hunter case, key winding and setting, with thefollowing complication:– Quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by thebolt on the pendant)Yellow gold caseBlued steel Breguet handsMovement 16’’’, audemars ebauche, gilt, pivoteddetent escapement, compensation balance andBreguet balance spring1845 –1846Inv. P-1066H. 62.2 mm / 44.6 mm / thickness 8.8 mmCHRONOMETERSFollowing servicing in 1996 –1997, the watch isdisplayed without its dial. The case front and backare engraved with foliage and vertical stripes.Only six Patek Philippe quarter repeatingchronometers are known:– No. 1129, with pivoted detent escapement: theabove watch.– No. 2681, with spring detent escapement (Inv.P-1081, p. 67).– No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement(Inv. P-1332, movement only, with fusee andchain).– No. 6021, with pivoted detent escapement.– No. 6022, with pivoted detent escapement(Inv. P-1213, p. 65).– No. 8045 (formerly No. 3220), with spring detentescapement (Inv. P-1631, p. 68).
Quarter Repeating Pocket Chronometerwith Pivoted Detent EscapementPatek, Philippe & cie, Genève, No. 6022Open-faced, stem winding and setting, with thefollowing complication:– Quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by theslide on the band to the left of the pendant)Yellow gold caseWhite enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 5 o’clockBlued steel Breguet hands; blued steelcounterpoised seconds handMovement 20’’’, D. l. Golay ebauche, gilt, pivoteddetent escapement, compensation balance andBreguet balance springOnly six Patek Philippe quarter repeatingchronometers are known:– No. 1129, with pivoted detent escapement(Inv. P-1066, p. 64).– No. 2681, with spring detent escapement(Inv. P-1081, p. 67).– No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement(Inv. P-1332, movement only, with fusee andchain).– No. 6021, with pivoted detent escapement.– No. 6022, with pivoted detent escapement:the above watch.– No. 8045 (formerly No. 3220), with spring detentescapement (Inv. P-1631, p. 68).1857 –1858Inv. P-1213H. 72.9 mm / 51 mm / thickness 14 mmPocket Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent,and Lever Escapement, with Horological Complications, 1845 –199765
Marine Chronometerwith Spring Detent EscapementPatek, Philippe & cie, Genèvekey winding and setting, with the followingcomplication:– 56-hour power reserve indication (sector at12 o’clock)Rectangular three-body mahogany box; hinges,brass fittings and carrying handles; two ivoryplaques on the front; glazed upper portion; brassgimbals and bowlMovement 36’’’, ebauche No. 6567, probably byVictor kullberg, gilt, fusee and chain and auxiliaryspring, spring detent escapement, compensationbalance with brass timing screws and brass andsteel affix bars, isochronous helical balance springwith terminal curves, diamond endstone1895 –1900Inv. Pe -18silvered metal dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockH. 180 mm / width 174 mm / depth 174 mm;bezel 123.5 mm; accompanied by a brass Breguettipsy keyBlued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoisedseconds handThis chronometer was never sold.Patek Philippe appears to have made onlytwo marine chronometers; the other knownchronometer, No. 198 064, dates from 1926 –1928.Delivered on October 30, 1928, to Tiffany & Co.,New York, this chronometer was subsequently soldto Henry Graves Jr.illustration 60%CHRONOMETERS
M a r i n e C h r o n o m e t e r, P r e c i s i o n C l o c k s a n d W r i s t C h r o n o m e t e r s ,S p r i n g D e t e n t a n d L e v e r E s c a p e m e n t , L e v e r E s c a p e m e n t a n d To u r b i l l o n , 1 8 9 5 – 1 9 8 773
Dress WatchDress WatchPatek, Philippe & cie, GenèvePatek, Philippe & cie, GenèveOpen-faced, stem windingOpen-faced, stem windingGold case, No. 414 227Yellow gold case, No. 414 226White enamel dial, applied gold upright cubistenumerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockWhite enamel dial, applied gold upright Dauphinenumerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockGold Poire hands; gold seconds handGold Breguet hands; gold seconds handMovement No. 817 801, 17’’’, lever escapementMovement No. 817 800, 17’’’, lever escapement19281928Inv. P-261Inv. P-285H. 54.2 mm / 43.6 mm / thickness 7.2 mmH. 54.3 mm / 43.6 mm / thickness 6.8 mmThe enamelled back features a chased andpounced flower and garland motif surroundedby a three-lobed frame, with flux finishing.The enamelled flower and garland motif is chasedand pounced, with flux finishing.ART NOUVEAU AND ART DECO
Dress WatchDress WatchPatek, Philippe & cie, GenèvePatek Philippe, GenèveOpen-faced, stem windingOpen-faced, stem winding and settingYellow gold case, No. 408 986Yellow gold case, No. 10 026Matte champagne dial, painted upright Dauphinenumerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clocksilvered dial, applied gold baton indexes, subsidiaryseconds dial at 6 o’clockBlued steel Breguet hands; blued steel seconds handGold Feuille hands; gold seconds handMovement No. 803 142, 17’’’, lever escapementMovement No. 860 163, calibre 17-140, straight linelever escapement1928Inv. P-13771937H. 54.4 mm / 43.8 mm / thickness 9.6 mmInv. P-105The case, with chased and pounced flowers andscrolling over a dark blue enamel ground, withflux finishing.This watch was never sold.1889 –1937H. 54 mm / 43.5 mm / thickness 7.1 mmThe case, made by Niton, features pounced andchased enamelled roses and foliage, with a griffonwithin a cartouche, and flux finishing.115
Watches madefor Gondolo & labouriau
From 1902 to the 1930s Patek Philippe produced watches especially for Gondolo & Labouriauof Rio de Janeiro. These Brazilian retailers had represented Patek Philippe since at least 1872.On March 10, 1902, the trade name Chronometro Gondolo was registered in Switzerland.These watches possess certain distinguishing characteristics. The cases are usually of the“bassine” type, open-faced, and are generally made of rose gold, though a few were in yellowgold, silver, or, more rarely, nielloed silver. Various types of dials and hands were used. Thediameter of the pocket watches ranges from 32 to 57 mm. These watches have movementsfrom 10’’’ to 22’’’, i.e. from 22.5 to approximately 50 mm.Chronometro Gondolo watches feature the following technical characteristics:– A movement with crown; the ratchet wheels of the mainspring barrel arbor have wolftooth winding; the mainspring barrel arbor has a square indentation for releasing thebarrel spring.– A 9-carat gold wheel train.– A straight line lever escapement à moustaches with a bimetallic compensation balanceand a Breguet balance spring.– A minimum of 18 jewels (18, 19, 20 or 21).– Fine fast/slow adjustment by an offset snail cam (an improvement of French patentNo. 142 376, registered on April 16, 1881, by Jean Adrien Philippe).Certain models have a centre seconds hand or a chronograph mechanism. These werethe only watches with gold wheel trains that Patek Philippe produced in the 20th century.In the 1920s, round, square, rectangular, “tonneau” or “coussin”-shaped wristwatches weremade. Patek Philippe also created Art Deco style pocket watches for Gondolo & Labouriau;these were very flat and “carrée galbée” in shape (square with rounded corners).The Brazilian firm promoted a lottery system in its buyers’ clubs, to encourage the sale ofChronometro Gondolo watches. The members of these clubs, all fervent watch lovers, couldtake part in weekly lotteries for a modest sum. Each participant was sure to eventually acquirea Chronometro Gondolo (the large gold model without complications) for a reasonable price.Around 1924, the Gondolo & Labouriau firm took the name Relojoaria Gondolo. For over aquarter century, the Brazilian retailer absorbed nearly a third of Patek Philippe’s production.
Chronometro Gondolo Pocket WatchPatek, Philippe & cie, Genèvehalf hunter case, stem winding and settingRose gold case, No. 235 075, with paintedRoman numeralsWhite enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockGold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoisedseconds handThe wolf tooth wheel train and the square indentationof the barrel arborMovement No. 121 409, 19’’’, Gondolo type1904Inv. P-690H. 71.1 mm / 50.7 mm / thickness 12.2 mmthe 9k gold wheel trainthe lever escapement à moustachesWAT C H E S M A D E F O R G O N D O L O & L A B O U R I A U
Chronometro Gondolo Pocket WatchPatek, Philippe & cie, GenèveOpen-faced, stem winding and settingRose gold case, No. 248 981White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clockGold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoisedseconds handMovement No. 142 975, 21’’’, Gondolo type1907Inv. P-210H. 79.2 mm / 56 mm / thickness 15.1 mmDelivered on October 15, 1907, to Gondolo& Labouriau, Rio de Janeiro.The cuvette is engraved with the specificationsof the Gondolo & Labouriau firm in Rio de Janeiro,for which this type of movement was speciallymade as of 1902.1903 –1928123
James Ward Packard’s Desk ClockPatek, Philippe & cie, Genèvekey winding and setting, with the followingcomplications:– Perpetual calendar– Date (outer graduation, central hand)– Day of the week (aperture at 9 o’clock; in English)– Month (aperture at 3 o’clock; in English)– Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock)– Leap year cycle (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock)– Power reserve indication (central sector)Silver case, No. 601 324, with yellow gold applieddecorative motifssilvered metal dial, painted Roman numerals,subsidiary hour and minutes dial at 12 o’clock,centre secondsBlued steel handsMovement No. 197 707, 24’’’, two barrels, eight daypower reserve, straight line lever escapement1922 –1923Inv. P-140L. 117.2 mm / width 90 mm / H. of the highestside 62.8 mmSold on June 7, 1923, to James Ward PackardAccompanied by two keys and twocalendar correctors.The clock case is chased and decorated withapplied gilt flowers and scrolling acanthusleaves; its base is supported by winged giltbronze griffons. J. W. Packard’s monogramme,engraved and highlighted in blue enamel, appearsunderneath the dial in a triangle made of stylised,chased leaves.illustrations of the movements 80%WAT C H E S M A D E F O R J A M E S WA R D PA C K A R D A N D H E N R Y G R AV E S , J R .
illustration 140%Watches Made for James Ward Packard, 1918 –1927149
James Ward Packard’s Astronomical Pocket WatchPatek, Philippe & cie, GenèveOpen-faced, stem winding and setting, with thefollowing complications:– Minute repeating on three gongs– Perpetual calendar– Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock)– Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock;in English)– Month (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock; in English)– Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial,graduated from 0 to 29 ½, aperture at 12 o’clock)– Time of sunrise in Warren, Ohio (subsidiary dialat 9 o’clock)– Time of sunset in Warren, Ohio (subsidiary dialat 3 o’clock)– Running equation of time– Sky chart for the latitude of Warren (on the watchback, under the cover)silvered dial, Dauphine numerals for
Commemorative Watches, Calibre 89 and Star Caliber 2000 413 commemorative Watches 415 calibre 89 427 Star Caliber 2000 435 Glossary 443 Watchmakers in this Catalogue 449 . – No. 8045 (formerly No. 3
this book is the result of many years of work. it documents and illustrates a representative selection of the company’s watches from the time of its founding in 1839 until approximately 1980, offering an outstanding panorama of the production of patek philipp
Reference 6300 Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM Double-face wristwatch, 20 comp
For women wishing to combine modern sporty chic with a touch of sparkle, Patek Philippe . engraved mother-of-pearl presenting a subtle checkerboard effect (Reference 5072R-001). Over the years, the men’s Aquanaut co
delivered by a unidirectional 21K gold central rotor. Like all Patek Philippe mechanical . portion of the lower face. On the 60-minute totalizer, the longer red hand counts the minutes on the two outer concentric scales that are graduated from 0 to 30 in red and from 30 to 60 in blue. . Correcto
column wheel. Advantages: The new design is thinner because it eliminates the need for an isolator wheel spring mounted on the split-seconds wheel (I). The isolator spring is part of the split-seconds column wheel cap. Unlike the mechanism in the Ref. 5004 in which the isolator (octopus) wheel rotates only in one direction, this isolator moves
3. The Lubrication of Watches:- Introduction:- It must be appreciated that the modern watch, with its fast 28800 vibs/hour fine train, together with a strong mainspring, relies far more on cleanliness and lubricants than earlier watches. The slow train watches, 18000 vibs/hour, would keep
New watches 2022 Press Release NEWSROOM.ROLEX.COM 2/9. New watches 2022 . Chasing new horizons NEWSROOM.ROLEX.COM 4/9. New watches 2022 Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 . opening up new possibilities and enabling a pure, clean aesthetic. Capturing light NEWSROOM.ROLEX.COM 8/9. About Rolex
Creating an economy that harnesses artificial intelligence (AI) and big data is one of the great opportunities of our age. This Sector Deal is the first commitment from government and industry to realise this technology’s potential, outlining a package of up to 0.95bn of support for the sector, which includes government, industry and academic contributions up to 603m in newly allocated .
