Sewing - Groz-Beckert

SewingMachine needles for single and multihead embroidery

Machine needles from Groz-Beckertfor single and multihead embroideryGroz-Beckert has been a renowned supplier of all types of sewing machine needles for over 30 years. The company not only serves the clothing andleather industry, but also offers a wide range of needles for single and multihead embroidery. Every production detail is scrutinized: high quality rawmaterials, optimized precision tools – and thereby tight manufacturing tolerances – as well as premium packaging.People have been using embroidery to decorate all kinds of fabric for hundreds of years. Originally done by hand, machines now largely carry out embroidery.Then as now, the tool ‘needle’ plays a major role. Requirements for the needle, in fact, have increased as the machines have advanced. The demandsmade on needles have risen dramatically with the growing range of embroidery materials and ever-more sophisticated designs. Embroidery needlesfrom Groz-Beckert deliver immaculate results even at very high embroidery speeds and when using different materials and yarns. The geometry andfeatures of the needles are optimally aligned for use with embroidery machines. Not only you, but your customers will be impressed by the resultingproduct. Creativity thus has free rein.2Find out more about sewing productsfrom Groz-Beckert

ContentsMachine needles for single and multihead embroiderySingle and multihead embroideryDifferent embroidery techniquesThe needle system DB x K5Special application needle DB x K5 SAN 1 GEBEDUR Point styles for single and multihead embroideryThe Groz-Beckert product rangeFrequent application problems and troubleshootingOther applicationsSewing and joining serviceMore highlights from Groz-Beckert2456789101213143

Single and multihead embroideryEmbroidery is used to decorate all kinds of fabrics by sewing thread in or onto it. Embroidery became a primarily mechanical task after the invention ofthe first embroidery machines in the 19th century. There are embroidery machines with only one head and others with several heads which can stitchthe same motif onto several items at the same time.Operation of embroidery machinesClassification of embroidery machinesNowadays embroidery machines are primarily usedto embroider articles of clothing such as T-shirts,socks and caps. This is usually computer controlled.The fabric to be embroidered is first placed onan embroidery backing and then spanned into anembroidery frame. Based on the embroidery file, yarnrolls in various colors are laid in. Since embroideryheads are outfitted with several needles, yarn rollsneed not be changed during the stitching process.The embroidery machine stitches the different yarnsin succession.Embroidery machines generally fall into the flatbed orfree-arm machine category. Pre-cut pieces are mainlyembroidered on flatbed embroidery machines beforethe finishing process. Here the embroidery framesare located on a large, non-adjustable table. Flatbedembroidery machines can be equipped with up to 50embroidery heads. Free-arm machines, on the otherhand, are used to embroider finished goods, such ascaps or T-shirts. These machines generally do nothave more than twelve embroidery heads.Multihead machine: Free-arm machine from ZSKThere is a further distinction between single- and multihead machines. Multihead machines are equippedwith several embroidery heads, which simultaneouslystitch the same motif on several articles of clothing.Multihead machine: Flat-bed machine from Tajima4Single-head machines: Flatbed machine from Tajima (left)and free-arm machine from ZSK (right)

Different embroidery techniquesIn addition to the traditional process, today's embroidery machines also allow for many otherstitching techniques. This usually requires additional mechanical equipment.Sequined embroideryString and loop embroideryMoss embroidery3D embroideryIn sequined embroidery, very different sequinsare attached to a backing. Sequins are fed to theembroidery machine on belts and backstitchedonto the backing.In this stitching technique cord yarn is used to stitcha string onto embroidery backing. This technique issuited, for instance, to refined ornaments.In contrast to traditional embroidery, moss embroideryis done with a single-thread system. The needlepierces the embroidery backing, picks up the threadunder the needle plate and pulls it up. The loops thatresult from repeating the process create a surface onthe top side.To create 3D effects in embroidery, foam materialis glued to the plain cloth and stitched over. Afteroverstitching, excess foam is removed from the embroidered fabric. ZSK Stickmaschinen GmbH5

Needle system DB x K5 – for high functional reliabilityThe needle system DB x K5 has been specially designed for use in high performance machines. Themain consideration was reducing skip stitches and thread breakage, maximum protection of threadand fabric, as well as loop pick-up.Further needle systems used for embroideryWith its bending resistance, even the standardversion of needle system DB x K5 stands aboveconventional needle systems normally used in embroidery. The constructional features of the SAN 1GEBEDUR and its titanium nitride coating providemaximum wear protection with high stability. Theblade construction of DB x K5 KK is the same as thestandard version, yet the shorter shank means thatbending resistance is lower.Along with the DB x K5, the needle system DB x 1is also often used in embroidery. These two systemsdiffer only in the length of the points and in eye size(for details see diagram). Needle system DB x 1 issuited, in particular in size Nm 55, for stitching verysmall lettering and for sequined embroidery.Bending resistancePoint lengthEspecially for moss embroidery, needle CE x 3 is used.Having a hook instead of an eye, it perfectly copeswith the special requirements of this embroiderytechnique.Comparison of needle systemsDB x 1 and DB x K56DB x K5Standard eyeLarge eyeLong pointR pointStandard point lengthRG pointEye sizeThe versionsDB x 1

Special application needle DB x K5 SAN 1 GEBEDUR The features of special application needle DB x K5 SAN 1 GEBEDUR provide many advantages overthe standard version. It is particularly suited to embroidery of sturdy products such as baseball caps andleather.Features:Areas of application:1. The reinforced blade boosts needle stability, reducingneedle deflection and breakage.2. The new scarf design with scarf chamfer leads to better loop pick-up, thereby reducing skip stitches andneedle breakage; moreover it protects the hook.3. The optimized geometry between eye and scarf alsoimproves loop pick-up and further reduces the number of skip stitches.4. The larger eye simplifies threading and facilitatessmoother sliding of the thread in the eye of theneedle.5. The GEBEDUR coating provides maximum protection against wear. DB x K5: universal use DB x K5 SAN 1 GEBEDUR : universal use, intended for sturdy materials such as hats and leather DB x K5 KK: for Pfaff KSM machines, caps, sequined embroidery and 3D effects DB x K5 SS: for sequined embroidery5DB x K5StandardDB x K5 SAN 1GEBEDUR DB x K5 KKShank lengthStandardStandardShortPoint shapeRG (Standard)RG (Standard)RG (Standard)CoatingChromeTitanium nitrideChromeArea of applicationStandard needle for allcommon applicationsNeedle with very high stability and wear resistance;universal applicationNeedles for specificembroidery machines andapplications, e.g. for 3DembroideryBending resistance1243Comparison of needle systemsDB x K5 and DB x K5 SAN 1 GEBEDUR as well as DB x K5 KK7

Point styles for single and multihead embroideryMore information indata sheet 'Cloth points'The standard point on the DB x K5 needle – the RG point – is the point most suited to many types of embroidery fabric.More demanding applications require other point styles.Normal round pointRound point with small ball pointLight ball pointMedium ball pointFor embroidery of textiles, leather, artificial leatherand coated textilesUniversal point for embroidery of knitted and textilematerial such as microfiberFor embroidery of knitted fabricsFor embroidery of elastic or coarsely-meshedsewing fabric and tulleRExample:Delicate embroidery8RGExample:Conventional embroidery with no particularrequirementsFFGExample:Logo embroidery on T-shirtsFGExample:Embroidery on tulle

The Groz-Beckert product range for single and multihead embroiderySize NmGroz-BeckertdesignationPointSurfaceDB x K5RGDB x K5608659701075118012851390141001611018Chrome FFGChrome DB x K5FGChrome DB x K5RGGEBEDUR DB x K5FFGGEBEDUR DB x K5 KK*RGChromeDB x K5 KK*FFGChromeDB x K5 KK*FGChrome DB x K5 RRChromeDB x K5 SAN 1RGGEBEDUR DB x K5 SS**RGChromeDB x K5TRChromeDB x 1RChrome DB x 1FFGChrome DB x 1FGChrome DB x 1RGEBEDUR DB x 1FFGGEBEDUR RChromeCE x 3*short shank**very short shank557 Comprehensively customizedThe Groz-Beckert range of machineneedles specifically for single andmultihead embroidery covers different point styles, surfaces and sizes. 9

Frequent application problems and troubleshootingFrom material damage to puckering: With the right products and some helpful tips and tricks fromGroz-Beckert, sewing problems are quickly remedied.Fabric damage during embroidery of knittedmaterialOne of the most common problems in the embroideryof knitted goods is damage to the fabric. The causescan vary: Needle is too thick Wrong point style Damaged needle pointExcessive stitch density, incorrect orientation of thefabric and bad yarn quality – due to fibers that are tooshort or twisted – can damage the fabric. To preventthis, a needle with ball point is required. The RG orFFG point is recommended for delicate knits, for morecoarsely-knitted material the FG point.10Example:Knitting yarns tear whenpierced by needle points thatare too sharp or damaged.Needles that are too thickstretch the loops too wide andthey burst.Solution:With needle systemDB x K5 Nm 65 with RGpoint, knitted fabrics can beembroidered smoothly andtrouble-free.Irregular embroidery appearance on wovenfabricEmbroidery on woven fabric often results in irregularappearance of the embroidery design caused by irregular thread coverage. The causes include: Ball point too big Needle too thin Lettering too small Bad quality of fabric to be embroideredExample:Needle deflection due to aneedle that is too thin or a ballpoint that is too big leads toirregular embroidery appearance.Solution:Using the DB x K5 Nm 75 withRG point ensures top resultsthanks to high stability andprecise piercing of the needle.