WELCOME TO PURGATORY

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WELCOME TO PURGATORYA guide by Todd Paige, Tom Herbert and Evan SmithSeveral great bouldering areas have recentyl been developed near Reno. Thisguide introduces the Purgatory Boulders, Family Boulders, several PyramidHighway areas and the Fort Sage Boulders. Please treat these areas with greatrespect and keep a low profile in order to help preserve access. Also, be awarethat in Nevada, activities such as small animal trapping, hunting, shooting,mining and motorcycle riding are legal and popular. Please try and get along withother users of these areas.Route infrormationThe V-grades in this guide represent our best guess. Star ratings indicate ourfavorite problems. Red print means we think the problem will become an areaclassic. Many problems have only seen a few ascents and there is a lot ofuntouched stone left to be explored. Routes are named, graded and rated whenappropriate. The initials of the first ascentionist appear and any specificdirections we thought would be helpful.Abbreviations used are:sds sit down startuc underclingTH Tom HerbertSH Sondra HerbertTP Todd PaigeES Evan SmithJA Jim ArnoldNM Noah MarkoffCM Craig McClenahanAM Andreas MullerJH Jackie HueftleDB Don BlandDirections to PurgatoryBefore heading out of town, top off your gas tank, there is noreliable source of gas once you are in the desert. Then, find theNixon Store at the junction of Hwy. 446 and Hwy. 447.(From Reno, follow highway 80 to Pyramid Way, Hwy 445 andfollow to Pyramid Lake. Turn right on Hwy 446 and follow toNixon. From the east, take Hwy 80 to Wadsworth exit 43 toHwy 447 and follow to Nixon.) (Do Not speed in Wadsworth orNixon)Once you have found the Nixon store (recently closed) followHwy. 447 north for 41 miles. Once you pass the north shore ofthe dry Winnemucca Lake, find (at 41 miles form Nixon Store)the obvious large dirt road following the large power line. Turnright and follow the road east toward the prominent craggypeaks for one mile. Turn left onto a small dirt road and find yourway to the boulder field, which is now easily seen below thepeaks. There are north and south parking areas at the dead endsof small spur roads.

39424140SNSP4845541678 1092NP32118 2017121315164 Mud Pie5 Knuckle Buster6 Parallel Universe7 Game Warden Rock8 Burro Boulder9 Aircraft Carrier10 Pure Fire11 Devil Boulder12 The Whale13 Dry Sea Fishing14 Phallus Rock15161718FlounderFun FactorHang TenSplit Rock19 Spirit Rock20 The Clam21 The Snout22 New Geometry23 Birth Stone24 Paradox25 Women's Warm-up26 Top Hat27 Two Faced Boulder28 X-Boulder29 Shin Dig30 Hidden Boulders31 A-Rock32 Basking Boulder33 Close to Heaven34 Gold Standard35 Chimps Arete36 Bad Love37 Dog Rock38 Sage Brush Boulder251929314434 3532 33302637 38111 Breakfast ClubNP north parking lot2 Parking Lot Boulder3 Beastie Boulder2324224347 462728365051491439 Respect40 Exacto Blade41 Underbelly42 No Respect43 Big Crack Rock44 Cracknup45 Fortitude46 Fret Arete47 Sleeping Buddha48 Pilot Boulder49 Welcome to Purgatory50 Tombstone51 Prime TimeSP south parking lot andareasSouth of the main purgatoryarea are many scatterdboulders. The boulders beloware located south of the map.52 South Park (1/4 mile southof SP)53 Burning Man (1/4 milesouth of 52)54 Zebra Cave (on hill above53)55 Lonely Boulder (1/4 milesouth of 53)

1NP25334413251 BREAKFAST CLUB West:1 Early Bird V3 **(sd)TH2 Project(sd)3 Project(sd)BREAKFAST CLUB South:4 Breakfast Club V2**(sd) ES(jump off)5 Eye Opener V5* TH6 V4 (sd)2 PARKING LOT BOULDER:1 V5** TH2 unknown3 unknown4 project5 V2***ES (arete)3 BEASTIE BOULDER:1 Brooklyn V7***ES2 Fly Juice V8** TH(sds)3 V4 ES (sds)6

013121423578611910107869A5 KUNCKLE BUSTERBOULDER:0Trash Compactor V1* TH1Tin Man Traverse V4** TH (lowsds)2 Knuckle Traverse V3***TH (sds)3 Knuckle Up V4** TH (arete off)4 Slot Machine V8* TH (slots only)5 V4 TH (start in slot)6 V1** ES (stand up start)7 V3* CM (V4 with sds)8 Knuckle bone V5*** ES(sds V6)9 Knuckle buster V6*** TH10 Fat Daddy V9/10** TH11 Battle Born V7* TH (leftdiagonal crack low start)12 V4* TH (sit down startlast moves of Fat daddy)13 unkown JH14 Purgatory Pump V4*** TH(start 2 and continue liptraverse to 12)A common sds for 6,7,84 MUD PIE:1 Mud Pie Traverse V3 SH(sds out of photo to left)2 Muddy waters V2* SH3 Mud puddle V2* SH54

67810PARALLEL UNIVERSE9BURRO BOULDER3486Pure Fire127516 PARALLEL UNIVERSE:1 V32 V23 V14 Pinched Rib V1**out of photo far R V3*ES7 Game Warden Rock1 Beat the Rap, V5***2 Misdemeanor Blues, V4**3 Interrogation, V2**4 V08 Burro Boulder:1 Dance of the Desert BurroV3(sds) ES10 Pure Fire Boulder:1 Pure Fire V3**JA9 Aircraft Carrier:1 V4(low sds)2 Porthole V1 TP3 Flight Deck V0 TP4 Control Tower V1 ES5 Cave**V3 JA (sds)6 V3 TH7 V3 NM*8 V3*TH

121311314612457811 DEVIL BOULDER, North:1 V0 TH2 V3** (sds) TH3 Devils Radio V3* (sds) TH4 Devil's got your tongue V3* TH5 Devils Horn V3*ES6 Dust Devil V2*** ESDEVIL BOULDER, West:7 Sympathy for the Devil V4***TH8 Escape (to right), V312 THE WHALE:1 Monstro V5* TH (projectsds)2 V3**DB13 DRY SEA:Below THE WHALE severalscatterd problems such as:Dry Sea Fishing V0 TP14 PHALLUS ROCK:1 V2 (sds) TH2 Hard On V4*** TH3 V2** (sds) TH4 Phallus V1** TPDRY SEA FISHING

181715166564SPLIT ROCKNORTH TOWER, NORTH FACE415 FLOUNDER:1 Flounder V4 ES2 Sea Urchin V2 ES3 Codfish V3 SH16 FUN FACTOR, West:1 Fun Arete V2** ES2 Fun Factor V3*** ES3 Funk Factor V5* TH4 Girl V5*** JHfUN fACTOR, South:5 Slap Happy V3** ES6 V2 TH17 HANG TEN:1 V1 TH2 V2 TH3 Hang Ten V3** TH4 West Shore V3** ES5 traverse into 4 V3* SH6 Beach Party V0 TP518 SPLIT ROCK,NORTHTOWER, North:1 Black Market V1*** TH2 Prescription for PleasureV2*** TH3 Prescription for Pain V7* THSPLIT ROCK,WestFace:4 unknown5 5.6 JA6 Tarantula V4** DB7 V4(sds) TH67between HANG TEN andSPLIT TOWER find THE FINwith a few V0's and THEEVAN SMITH MEMORIAL alow V4 sds ES

212019697856Th e C la m, West19 SPIRIT ROCK, North:1 V0 *ES2 V2* ES3 project4 V4 THSPIRIT ROCK, West:5 Medicine Man V4* TH6 Ghost Walker V3***JA7 Pandemonium V5**JA8 Skin Walker V5**(sds) TH9 Peace Pipe V3***JA720 THE CLAM, West:1 Chlamydia V7*** TH2 Bearded Clam V5* TH3 Clam Digger V3* TP(low lefthand mantle start)4 Clam Up V8** TH5 The Clam V8** TH6 Pearl Necklace V3** SHTHE CLAM, South6 Pearl Necklace V3** SHTHE CLAM, East7 Clam Sandwich V6* TH8 In hole 10 ft right of 7 findV3(sds) SH (no pic)21 THE SNOUT:1 Snot Hard Arete V2 TH2 Snot Easy V4 ES3 Snot Traverse V3 TH

231922242526564WOMENS WARM UP23 BIRTHSTONE:1 Birth V3** ES2 Labor V4 TH3 Conception V1 TP22 NEW GEOMETRY:1 New Geometry V1*** ES2 Right Angle V6***TH3 Break a Leg V4 TH24 PARADOX NORTH:4 Tattle Tale V7* TH (uc sdsarete off)PARADOX, West:1 Paradox V3*** (uc sds) TH2 V2***(uc sds) TH3 V0 THPARADOX, North4 Tattle Tale V7 (sds) THPARADOX, South:5 project6 Pair of Docs V4(sds),V2(standup)25 WOMENS WARM UPBOULDER:1 thru 5 V0-V1BACK SIDE: (not pictured)6 O-Factor V1 JH7 Beached Whale V3 JH26 TOP HAT, West:1 Top Hat V4*** ES2 Top Cat V4*** THTOP HAT, East:several low problems (nopicture)SHALLOW HAL:(no picture)triangluar face with concavebase found just north ofParadox boulder1 Shallow Hal V3*TP

29TWO FACED BOULDER312530283271452X Boulder21534127 TWO-FACED BOULDER:1 project (sds)2 project (sds)3 V4 TH4 V3 ES5 V1 SH28 BOULDER X:1 V3(sds) TH2 V2*(sds) SH3 V3**(sds) ES4 V3(sds) avoid jug at 6ft5 V2*29 SHIN DIG:1 Shin Dig V5* TH (sds)2 V3** TH (sds)30 HIDDEN BOULDERS:1 V3 TH2 project3 project4 V3 TH5 V2*** TH6 Bone Trouble V5 TH(located on short blank wallbehind 5)2331 A ROCK:1 Left of Perfection V3***TH2 Left A V2*3 Right A V1*50 ft west of A-Rock findseveral V0-V1 routes on RedFace

3435333245CLOSE TO HEAVENG old St a n d ard3124512332 BASKING BOULDER,West:1 V3(sds)TH2 Basking V7** TH3 Thumbs up V0 TP4 Basking Traverse V1*** SH5 Tan Line V1** TPBASKING BOULDER, South:5 Tan Line V1** TPSeveral V0-V1 problems on eastface50 ft west of basking boulderfind Low Rider V4(sds) ES33 CLOSE TO HEAVEN:1 thru 5 V0-V26 thru 8 out of photo onright V0-V1CRACK OF JUSTICE, grittycrack 100 yards down hillfrom CLOSE TO HEAVEN V3JA35 CHIMPS ARETE:1 Chimps Arete V2** JA2 Chumps Arete V4* TH34 GOLD STANDARD:1 Gold Member V5*(sds) ES.Out of picture left(step offonce established on slab)continuation to top is GoldMember Extender V5*2 Gold Standard V5*** TH3 Substandard V2*SH

30BAD LOVE2827373836321D O G RO CK1SAGEBRUSH BOULDER, NorthSAGEBRUSH BOULDER, SOUTH27636 BAD LOVE:1 unkown2 V3 JA3 Bad Love V3 JA37 DOG ROCK:1 Puppy Love V3 SH838 SAGEBRUSH BOULDER,North:1 V1 (sds) TH (left of 2, notseen in pic)2 V1* (sds) ES3 Silver State V7** TH4 Sagebrush V4** ES5 V3 (sds) TH (west face, nopicture)9SAGEBRUSH BOULDER,South:6 V3 TH7 unknown8 Sage Fright V39 unknown345

394241RESPECT40UNDERBELLY40 EXACTO BLADE:1 Exacto Blade V7** AM (sds)42 NO RESPECT:1 project2 No Respect V3(sds) TH39 RESPECT:1 American Dream V5*** TH2 Respect V5*** TH3 arete left of Respect V3 NM41 UNDERBELLY:project right and West ofRespect

SP484554447143462124333PILOT BOULDER22143 BIG CRACK ROCK:1 Big Crack 5.62 Little Crack 5.10a44 CRACKNUP:1 V2 SH2 The Albatross V3**(sds)ES3 Cracknup V4***(sds) ES4 project5 Roof Route V2 THseveral V0 problems in theCracknup Corridor under 545 FORTITUDE BOULDER:1 No Star Arete V2 TH2 Fortified V3 TH3 Fortitude V8** TH (startas shown on low crimps)46 FRET ARETE:1 5.72 Fret Arete V4*** ES47 SLEEPING BUDDHA:1 Transcendental Traverse V3***ES2 V5*** TH3 projectmultiple V1-V2 straight upproblems48 PILOT BOULDER:due east of Sleeping Buddha onridge1 Angle Pilot V5 JA2 Sloper Pilot JA

50495154312WELCOME TO PRUGATORY, WEST7Welc o m e toPurg a tory49 WELCOME TOPURGATORY, West:1 V12 V33 Welcome to Purgatory V5**ES (sds project)4 project5 Purgatory Crack V3** TH6WELCOME TOPURGATORY, South:6 V47 Unforgiven V4**8 V3In corridor behind Welcometo Purgatory find two, V0traveses50 TOMBSTONE:1 Tombstone V3*** TH2 Making the Grave V4*** TH3 North Tomb V4 * TH (caveout of photo to right)51 PRIME TIME BOULDER:1 V4 TH2 Prime TimeV2**3 V1*4 V15 V16 V2* TP8

SOUTH PARKING WARM UPS124356FDCBASOUTH PARKING HILLSIDESOUTH PARKING WARM UPS AND SOUTH PARKINGHILLSIDE:Many V0-V2 problems scattered along the hillside between thesouth parking area and the Fortitude Boulder found at the topof the hillF Fortitude Boulder

SOUTH PARK21BURNING MAN, WestZEBRA CAVE4sp2531LONELY BOULDERSOUTH PARK:1 Urban Culture V3 ES2 Bad Cartoon V3 ESBURNING MAN, East:1 Let's Burn Man V8** AMBURNING MAN,West:Burning Man, V *** THZEBRA CAVE:1 V3**2 V4**3 V5*** TH4 unknown AM5 unknown AMSP south parking area, mainpurgatory area seen inbackgroundLONELY BOULDER:1 Lonely V5**ES2 Homely V3** ES3 V4 TH

PYRAMID HIGHWAY AREASDIRECTIONSBIGMOUTH CAVEFrom Hwy 80 in Reno take Pyramid Way (Hwy 445) north. Fromthe Albertson's grocery store go 17.3 miles to a dirt road. Turnleft and travel straight up road to a metal gate and fenced inBomb Squad detonation area. Walk around the perimeter of thearea and find a large white boulder in the wash. Take Motrin andget ready to crimp. This is the Cow Pie Boulder. Beware ofgunfire.To find the other Pyramid Hwy areas follow the dirt roadsheading over the hill to the north. Bigmouth Cave is in the secondcanyon north. Neoplastic is in the third canyon just beyond PigRock(bolted sport crag) on the left side of the dirt road.BIGMOUTH CAVE:1 project2 Overbite V8* TH3 Hard Palate V6 TH4 project5 Soft Palate V3Cowpie:1 Priapism V9*** TH (V3 tofirst bucket)2 V3 TH3 project4 Bomb Squad V8*** TH(stand up start V3)5 Mad Dog V8** TH6 V2* TH7 Cowpie V3*** TH8 V2**THout of photo to right find aV1 and V0Cowpie, North:1 V1* TH2 Snake Charmer V3* TH

neoplasticNEVADA BOULDER:1 V1 ES2 V4 TH3 V3 TH4 V5 TH5 V4 ES6 V4 ESTraverse V5 THNEOPLASTIC V10*** TH (2repeats so far.)

FAMILY BOULDERSRa t e d G e eDEADMANS BOULDER:1 V32 Dead Man V3***3 V3**4 V35 V2 ES6 V2 ESRATED GEE:multiple variations V0-V1DIRECTIONSTake Hwy 80 to Wadsworth exit 43. At the first stopsign turn left onto Hwy 447 and travel north on Hwy447 about 2.4 miles to a gigantic dirt road, which cutsthrough the desert on your left. Follow this 3 miles to acorral on the right. Turn right and make a hairpin turnonto a faint dirt road. Backtrack down this road and youwill find these volcanic boulders.

FORT SAGEMiles of exploratory bouldering inthe Fort Sage Mountains OHV areajust outside of Doyle, CA. about45 miles north of Reno on Hwy 395

(From Reno, follow highway 80 to Pyramid Way, Hwy 445 and follow to Pyramid Lake. Turn right on Hwy 446 and follow to Nixon. From the east, take Hwy 80 to Wadsworth exit 43 to Hwy 447 and follow to Nixon.) (Do Not speed in Wadsworth or Nixon) Once you have found the Nixon store (recently closed) follow Hwy. 447 north for 41 miles.

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