Threads That Bind - Accenture

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ThreadsThat BindTransforming the fashion supply chainthrough transparency and traceabilityResponsible Retail

More than 150 billion garments aremanufactured worldwide each year,1often ending up far across the globefrom where they were created.Before reaching the consumer,they pass through countless otherhands—from growers, processors,mills and finished goodsmanufacturers, to distributors,warehouses and retail shops.They are sold, worn, washed,repaired, donated—and mostend as waste. The scale of thisproblem becomes apparentwhen you consider that theannual global spend on fashionequates to the GDP of theworld’s 126 poorest countries.2The carbon footprint of anygarment’s journey, theenvironmental impact of itscreation, and the pay andconditions within the factorywhere it was assembled havecreated a perfect storm ofunsustainability—and all thisfrom an industry that consumesmore energy than aviationand shipping combined.3Accenture’s apparel industryresearch into how technologycan be leveraged to transformtransparency and traceabilityacross the value chain, in supportof fashion as a sustainableindustry, has revealed progressin several areas.Consumer awareness andcommunication are improving,standardizing bodies areaiming to bring clarity andguidance, brands have begunexperimenting with new materials,and suppliers are improvingtheir production practices.But, given the complexity andscale of the production process,these incremental steps do notgo far enough.Threads That Bind2

We have tothink biggerAnd we have to be realisticabout how to do that.If we are to transform the industryfor the better, by promotingsustainable and ethical practicesin apparel manufacturing byimproving transparency andtraceability, we need strategicthinking, visibility, trust, guidanceand clear communicationat a systemic level.In this era of responsible retail,sustainability is certainly highon the CEO agenda, with 48% ofCEOs implementing sustainabilitywithin their operations in 2019.4To be successful, organizationsneed a holistic approach drivenfrom the top that brings togetherstrategy, design and execution,plus a genuine desire to collaboratewith other parties across the supplychain and an understanding thatsustainability requires realignmentas a pre-competitive consideration.About the researchIn 2019, research was conductedinto the apparel industry:337Hours nesessionsThe 21 companies taking partconsisted of brands, retailers,manufacturers, suppliers, assuranceproviders, and advisory andstandards bodies with a combinedglobal revenue of US 140 billion.Threads That Bind3

Technology as anenabler of changeTechnology is often seen as a panacea for all industrialissues, and it certainly helps, but our research highlightsa recognition among suppliers, manufacturers and brandsthat technology alone cannot solve key issues relatingto sustainability and transparency.While it may mitigate some pitfalls across the full lifecycle of a garment, concerns will remain around trustand industry alignment, as well as the motivation toadopt sustainable and transparent practices.Blockchain and othertechnologies are just anenabler, they don’t solvehuman challenges at thefront. The main challengesin the supply chain aresocial, and environmental.– Global RetailerIf we are to forge genuine, systemic change, a broaderprogram of pre-competitive collaboration is required,where different parties agree on transformation—andtechnology is simply the enabler to make it happen.Threads That Bind4

Technology opportunities across the apparel value tplacemarketplaceDigitalDigitalIOTIOTtooltoolValue chain stagesTrainingplatformplatformAA TrainingSecureSecureBB digital rightsdigital designDDFFVVProductionProductionRR ainsupplychainXXvisibilityvisibilityH, I, JSK, L, gEE new materialsnew ingvisibilityvisibilityplanningFor further information see the appendixThreads That Bind5

Improving thevalue chain forresponsible growthTo promote responsible growth for thewhole industry we need to focus on ournorth star vision of a fully traceable andtransparent value chain.Informed by our primary research,we have defined six recommendationsthat are all inextricably linked to oneanother. They reflect the complex,interwoven and interdependent networkof the apparel industry ecosystem.01 Strategic thinking02 Delivering value03 Fashioning friendships04 Cut from the same cloth05 Audits06 Out of styleThreads That Bind6

Brands must align any sustainabilitystrategy with their existing purpose,measured against business growth orrenewal, and translate it into actionableguidelines for their internal design,materials, sourcing, supply chain andCSR teams, as well as suppliers.01 Strategic thinkingMake sustainability systemicEssentially this makes sustainability anequivalent factor to cost, lead time andquality. Suppliers must also formulatea sustainability strategy and be open tosharing their initiatives with brands socollective ROI can be measured.Companies need to put sustainability goals on apar with shareholder value, and respect all theirstakeholders, including customers, employees,suppliers, communities and shareholders—asoutlined by the Business Roundtable.5Several established brands are ahead of thecurve. Patagonia has been heralded as aCertified B Corporation for taking responsibilityThreads That Bind7

for its entire supply chain and working toprotect the environment.6 And Marks &Spencer is aiming to become a zero-wastebusiness and has committed to ensuring that,by 2025, its 50 key raw materials (80% of itsvolume) will come from a sustainable source.7This is not a risk they can continue toignore. With social media, people canspread information quickly aboutunfavorable conditions and processes,which can erode market trust. Recentresearch from Accenture shows that:By better navigating sustainability, businessleaders can turn costs and risks into businessopportunities. Many of the retailers in ourresearch claimed that consumers are notwilling to pay more for sustainable goods,but this is at odds with a huge growth insustainable goods—Harvard BusinessReview reported that 50% of recent USconsumer packaged goods growth camefrom sustainability-marketed goods, a rate5.6x faster than conventional counterparts.854%According to our research, the mainreason that brands dislike sustainabilityand transparency in the apparel supplychain is the desire for businesses toprotect themselves from unknownbad practices being exposed.of companies surveyedexperienced a loss of trust,which corresponded with a 180bnloss in revenue.9Transparency benchmarks are also nowbeing used as a key investor metric. To avoidenvironmental and social governance-relatedrisks, investors are looking for evidence thata company is effectively identifying risks inits own operations, with value placed onwhether companies are using effective,transparent value chains.Threads That Bind8

Brands need to be aware of theconsequences of their choices onthe business ecosystem, such as howpoor planning could result in the useof non-approved sub-contractors.02 Delivering valueSuppliers need to understand how toreduce their negative impact on theecosystem to maintain and grow theirbusinesses long term.Making economic senseRetailers are increasingly striving to becomeresponsible businesses, so it’s important forleaders to consider the consequences, bothintentional and unintentional, of their decisions.Threads That Bind9

Can fast fashion be sustainable?If clothing takes too long to hit theshop floor, retailers run the risk ofmissing their fashion window.Retailers are now exploring newinventory models that enable themto ship small batches of experimentalfashion, before quickly ramping upproduction if they prove popular.10Unintended consequences of thismodel can result in manufacturerscompeting for work based purely onprice and lead time, and pressures todeliver may lead to sub-contracting,and asking staff to work overtime ormultiple shifts.Manufacturers are in a position ofvulnerability, feeling there is noprotection for their businesses andno loyalty from their customers,while retailers struggle with thewhims of a fast-changing consumer.The cost of storing outdated inventoryand discounting is significant.11In 2018, H&M accumulated 4.3bnworth of unsold inventory, whileBurberry announced that it wouldstop its practice of burning unsoldgoods, after destroying 37m-worthof inventory in 2017.12Downstream technologies areessential here—advanced AI couldbetter predict demand and reduceexcess stock. It’s also crucial thatretailers maintain an awareness ofthe consequences of their agilitydriven choices on the ecosystemand their own businesses.Threads That Bind 10

03 Fashioning friendshipsThe spirit of collaborationBrands and suppliers must invest instrategic cross-tier relationships in theextended supply chain and committo greater transparency in order tobuild trust and develop more opencommunication.There is widespread acceptance that changeis necessary—and collaboration acrossthe value chain is the only way its systemicproblems can be resolved. The good newsis that there is evidence of a strong senseof collaboration and a willingness to improvethe industry.Water is a good example of this. Poor waterquality in a region negatively impacts thelongevity of equipment and the quality ofproducts being manufactured. The examplesof the Aral Sea drying up13 and the Australiancotton crop halving in one year show theconsequences of overconsumption.14Industry bodies and technologyplatforms are linking global partnersin a more cooperative way.Threads That Bind11

The Roundtable on Sustainable PalmOil (RSPO), with its 4,000 membersworking to make sustainability the norm,shows this collaborative spirit15 and theSustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC)is making similar headway.16But in many cases, these collaborationsare juxtaposed with the desire of brandsto close ranks and protect themselves,and suppliers using opacity to maintaincompetitive advantage.However, there is evidenceof change. According toFashion Revolution, in 2019:Our research indicates that future successin this area will depend on mutual respectand trust between parties with sharedtransparency across the supply chain.35%The following actions will go someway to achieve this:of brands are now publishingtheir Tier 1 supplier lists (morethan twice the 2017 figure)There are also many practical barriersin place, such as inefficient processes,language and communication barriers,long bespoke documentation, paperbased transactions and duplicated audits.19%From our research, thedifficulties in accessinginformation about products,people and processes wereheard loud and clear.5%are publishing their Tier 2are publishing theirraw material suppliers.17Incentivize better relationshipsthrough community initiatives aroundeducation, grants and fair tradeImprove payment terms and accessto financial and other services asa response to full transparencyInitiate collaborative planning andthe use of value-added servicesfrom these partnersWhile it cannot solve the problem on its own,technology can enable collaboration by makingdata available, facilitating communication,automating processes, sharing ideas seamlessly,expediting onboarding, providing planningvisibility, and increasing access to funding.Threads That Bind 12

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04 Cut from the same clothIntra-industry alignmentBrands and suppliers must worktogether to synchronize the industrytowards common standards.The creation of a garment is a global event,crossing countries and language barriers.If codes of conduct, process steps, andguidelines were standardized, every playerin the ecosystem would understand therules of engagement, no matter where theyare in the global supply chain.But it’s challenging for retailers to keep upwith intricate and changing sustainabilityrequirements demanded by regulators,consumers and NGOs. They often developtheir own policies and standards, whichonly add to the complexity and variability.Threads That Bind 14

To drive change,industry participantsneed to understandthat sustainabilityrequires alignmentas a pre-competitiveconsideration.Industry bodies are already trying totackle these issues, with initiatives suchas Better Work18, the Social and LaborConvergence Program (SLCP)19, and theHigg Index, developed by the SustainableApparel Coalition (SAC), which has beenwidely adopted.20Our research identified more than 40certifications that could be applied toapparel across environmental and socialfactors, with a huge crossover betweeneach. But even when standards andrequirements are clear, there is oftenlittle guidance on how to achieve them.This is a complex and challenging areawith a clear need for technology andplatform solutions to work alongsidenew standards, to enable better sharingof results, efficient communicationand streamlined updates.Threads That Bind 15

05 AuditsExhaustive or exhausting?It would be beneficial if multiple parties couldagree upon audit data, format and trusted sourcefor feedback allowing for a more structured,standardized means for sharing audit data.– Global RetailerBrands must work tostandardize audit requirementsto reduce duplicate auditsand excessive supplier expense,and to share the audit burden.The complexity of requirementsaround sustainability, combinedwith the risk of brand damage,have led to a complicated, siloedaudit landscape.auditor, to meet almost identicalrequirements for different brands.The SLCP estimates that 75% ofaudits carried out within sharedfacilities are duplicated.21Suppliers must review theirpolicies around externalvisibility of their audit results.Scheduled or unscheduledaudits are conducted bycertification bodies, brands orbrand-appointed assurancecompanies, but due to a lackof standardization, each has itsown requirements.Suppliers are often obliged to payfor audits and the Ethical TradingInitiative reports that companiestypically devote up to 80% oftheir ethical sourcing budget toauditing alone.A supplier may have multipleaudits in the same week,sometimes with the sameData recorded during social andenvironmental audits is subjective,fragmented, and often capturedinconsistently in manual formats.Audit costs and the proficiencyof the auditor can also impact theaccuracy of data generated. Somecompanies are using mobile appsto record findings, but the sameissues still apply.Initiatives such as the SLCP, HiggIndex, Better Work, Sedex andFair Factories Clearinghouse allpromote the consolidation andsharing of the audit burden – butgreater efforts need to be madeto ensure audit consistency, inboth content and medium, tomaximize the value and uses ofcaptured data.Threads That Bind 16

To gain the most value from data andits insights, brands and suppliers mustimprove process inefficiencies byupgrading legacy systems.The apparel industry produces masses ofdata, but it is often in impractical, outdatedformats that are hard to mine for insights.06 Out of styleDated data and processesCreating value means capturing theright data, at the right time, withappropriate controls and measures toensure its validity, and using technologyto unlock opportunities.By combining qualitative assessment withquantitative data capture and analysis, theindustry has an opportunity to use this dataintelligently and make real progress.Threads That Bind 17

The intrinsically complex nature of theglobal apparel supply chain involvesmany independent organizations andstakeholders.Most retailers don’t have visibilitybeyond tier 1 or 2 in their supply chainand sustainability data is often buried inunstructured formats and unconnectedfolders. One solution is to centralizethe responsibility for these accessibilityissues by creating a role that oversees thecohesion and coherence of captured data.Pre-existing retailers’ systems arenot capable of managing newsustainability and traceabilityrequirements, while suppliers areunable to meet required lead timesfor sourcing sustainable goods.Practices and systems need to beupdated through collaboration,training and digital enablement,to ensure that sustainabilityrequirements are being met acrossthe board.Legacy systems are notcapable of managing newrequirements for traceability.SummaryA traceable, transparent valuechain is a significant challengefor any apparel manufacturer.But there has never been moreinternational momentum behindsustainable initiatives, and theireconomic value is now moreclearly understood.Our research has detailed thetechnology opportunities andthe industry is ready to change.Now it’s up to companies tocut from a different cloth.– RetailerThreads That Bind 18

Contact the authorsTOM WHITEManaging Director, Retail StrategyKurt Salmon, part of Accenture StrategyHARSHIT NIGAMSenior Manager Supply Chain and t.nigam@accenture.comAKSHAY MADANESupply Chain and Operations Innovation Lead,Kurt Salmon, part of Accenture StrategyCOLLEEN CONNOLLYSenior Innovation LeadAccenture The y@accenture.comThreads That Bind 19

Stay so utomation10Threads That Bind 20

About thisexecutive summaryAboutThe DockAboutAccentureThis summary draws on a more detailedreport, that maps technology opportunities inthis sphere to each part of the supply chainand to the insights outlined here.The Dock is Accenture’s flagship R&D andGlobal Innovation Center based in Dublin,Ireland where design, business and technologycome together under one roof.Along with our colleagues in Supply Chain& Operations, Retail Strategy, RetailConsulting and Capability Network, a teamat The Dock are now exploring the feasibilityof these technological opportunities forupstream traceability.The Dock is home to a diverse team of 300creative problem-solvers made up of highlytalented experts in design, engineering,artificial intelligence and IoT.Accenture is a leading global professionalservices company, providing a broad rangeof services in strategy and consulting,interactive, technology and operations, withdigital capabilities across all of these services.To learn more, get in touch with the teamThe multi-disciplinary team at The Dockresearch, incubate, prototype and pilotdigital and emerging technologies togetherwith clients and partners to pioneer newways to fulfil human needs using emergingtechnology.We combine unmatched experience andspecialized capabilities across more than 40industries — powered by the world’s largestnetwork of Advanced Technology andIntelligent Operations centers.With 506,000 people serving clients inmore than 120 countries, Accenture bringscontinuous innovation to help clientsimprove their performance and createlasting value across their enterprises.Visit us at accenture.com/thedock@AccentureDockVisit us at www.accenture.comCopyright 2019 Accenture The Dock. All rights reserved. Accenture and its logo are trademarks of Accenture. This document makes descriptivereference to trademarks that may be owned by others. The use of such trademarks herein is not an assertion of ownership of such trademarks byAccenture and is not intended to represent or imply the existence of an association between Accenture and the lawful owners of such trademarks.

Technology opportunitiesacrossthe apparel value chainTechnologyOpportunitiesAppendixPage 1 of 2[A–M]ATraining platformBSecure digital rightsCDigital productdesign / R&DDPredict sustainabilityimpact at designPlatforms and tools that digitize and share training and information across the globe,in accessible and digestible ways, can enhance understanding of requirements,uptake and adherance to policies, and alignment between participants.Blockchain technology could be applied to address challenges with ownership and fraudulentuse of design IP, by creating tamper-evident records of IP, access, and ownership.manufacturers, as well as rapid sampling using innovative technologies (e.g., 3-D printing).Design tool that predicts the environmental impact of a product, based on the provision ofcombined with AI guidance and feedback to support design and sourcing teams.Use AR/VR technology to provide designers with access to sustainable materials, helping them tounderstand the look and feel and to promote the incorporation of sustainability into their designs.EUse Digital Product Creation technologies to provide designers with tools to visualizeFVirtual design toolsGSourcing recycledproductsPlatforms and tools to monitor supply availablity of recycled and recyclable materials to informplanning and sourcing; connecting collection schemes and recycling facilities to designand sourcing teams; and providing analysis and benchmarking on circularity.HSupplier master dataPlatform that allows companies to maintain and control access to their information in a single place.Through a series of APIs, it can connect to, and keep up to date with, multiple marketplaces or sourcing channels.IFraud predictionAnalytics plug-in to keep risk assessment informed of potential fraud, by: scanning and matchingnames and addresses of facilities to clean up data records; identifying the likelihood of duplication;and maintaining links between businesses trading under different name or tax number.JSupplier ratingsPlatform where factories and suppliers are rated/reviewed by their customers, assuranceagencies and even staff based on economic, social and environmental performance.KDigital auditData platform which consolidates sustainability information through a combination of connected devices and sensors,in-factory audits, and voice of the worker, to provide ongoing monitoring and insight to factories and their customers.managementand accreditation bodies, and can provide visibility and reassurance to the validity of credentials.LBlockchain for Digital Identity can be used to ensure that the individuals carryingMNQA results platformEnhanced laboratory test results data platform, powered by blockchain to provideevidence of tampering, share results, and control access in a secure way.Smart contracts that trigger invoice payment under agreed terms and conditions could

LmanagementBlockchain for Digital Identity can be used to ensure that the individuals carryingMAppendixNQA results platformEnhanced laboratory test results data platform, powered by blockchain to provideevidence of tampering, share results, and control access in a secure way.OInvoicing and paymentSmart contracts that trigger invoice payment under agreed terms and conditions couldalleviate a number of pain points around late payments and negotiations.PTraceabilityplatform incentivesQSmart factory and IIoTThe introduction of IIoT to create smart factories in garment manufacture can generatesavings for suppliers, speed to market, as well as provide insight and monitoring onsustainability and product footprints to retailers and the wider industry.RProduction visibilityEnd-to-end lead time visibility and inventory status for products and inventorylocations, enabled by analytics and interactive dashboardsSWaste monitoringTEnvironmentalfootprint calculationUPredict upstreamtraceabilityUse analytics to predict the upstream business relationships in a given supply chain,and connect these relationships with product data to predict traceability information.VQuality and logisticsLink and store quality test data along the supply chain with data captured from connected devices in transit(monitoring conditions such as sunlight, moisture and temperature) to understand liability for issues with quality.WProduct taggingLinking physical to digital for traceability through the supply chain with a combination of RFID tags,RFID threads, QR codes and AI photo analysis, according to the state and risk at various points.XEnd-to-end supplychain visibilityEnd-to-end lead time visibility and inventory status for products and inventorylocations, enabled by analytics and interactive dashboardsYConsumer interactivetraceability informationInteractive dashboards using real traceability and sustainability data to supplyconsumers with in-store or online information and data.ZIntegratedplanning visibilityIntegrated planning visibility between retailers, mills, and other tiers of the suply chain, using real-timedata from design stage to allow optimum quantity of raw materials to be purchased in advance.Page 2 of 2[N–Z]and accreditation bodies, and can provide visibility and reassurance to the validity of credentials.Platforms that connect upstream suppliers to brands and retailers through traceability solutions canblockchain to track transfer of ownership, individuals involved, and facility credentials;along with sensors and tools to test, monitor, and store data in a secure way.

G ourcing ecure recycled products Q art Y factory and oT R roduction visiility V uality and logistics W roduct tagging X supply chain visiility Y onsuer interactive traceaility inoration Z ntegrated planning visiility Across the value chain ndtoend tool igi tal igi tal ar k etplace Analytics A /VR loc k chain a ta platfor AI IO T A Training .

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