Wella Color Charm

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Wella Color CharmPermanent Liquid Haircolor education workbookliquifusetechnology

Table of Contents02Introduction03Liquifuse Technology 04Wella Color Charm 5 Tonal Families05Wella Color Charm Level & Tone Numbering System06Wella Color Charm Level System07Wella Color Charm Tonal Identifiers08Wella Color Charm Shade Palette10Selecting Your Shade12Mixing Instructions13Wella Color Charm Shade Level & Developer Chart14Wella Color Charm Application Instructions16Wella Color Charm Additives17High Lift Blonding18Wella Color Charm Toners19Optimum Gray Hair Coverage20Consultation Guide21Step-by-Step Technique24Wella Color Charm Creative Formulation Guide26Comparison Chart01

vibrant colorsascreative as you areRediscover Wella Color CharmVibrant, long lasting, fade resistant results Infuses the hair with vibrant color molecules Intense color and up to 43% more shine*, even on darker hair Long-lasting, true to tone colorGreat conditioningSaturates each strand to deliver great conditioning.EXCELLENT GRAY coverageColors the most resistant hair every time.Gentle FLORAL fragranceFor a much more pleasurable coloring experience.* Versus untreated hair02

LiquifuseTechnologyTMLiquifuse Technology saturates, penetrates and fuses with the hairto deliver vibrant color that is exceptionally fade resistant.Here’s how it works:liquifusetechnology1. SATURATES:Liquid color coupler molecules combine with coloractivator to form a gel.You can put it exactly where you want andit will stay there, saturating every strand of hairas you apply.2. PENETRATES:The gel penetrates the hair shaft to deliver vibrantcolor molecules.3. FUSES:The color fuses deep within the cortexof the hair to make it exceptionallyfade resistant.4. THE RESULT:Beautiful, vibrant, long-lasting haircolor and excellentgray coverage.03

Wella Color Charm5 Tonal FamiliesWella Color Charm organizes its shade range in a logical way utilizing acolor-coded tonal family system. This system helps you to quickly identifyeach family and provides a logical position on the Wella Color Charmswatch chart to allow for easy shade selection.The five tonal families are:natural04Ashgoldwarmred

Wella Color Charm Level and ToneShade Numbering SystemWella Color Charm uses an international Level and Tone systemfor identifying each shade. This system enables logical and consistentshade selection so that you can formulate your colors with total confidencefor perfect results every time. It also keeps the older Wella Color Charmnumber where appropriate, so you can easily find your favorite shade.What is a level?A level describes how light or dark a color is regardless of its tonal character.This is represented by a numeric system based on international standards.What is a tone?A tone is the overall character of the color result that you will see.This is represented by the one or two letters that follow the level number.exampleThe first number indicates thelevel of the color based on howlight or dark the expected resultwill be.levelThe letter following the numberrepresents the tonal qualities oftonethe shade. In this case the letter‘N’ indicates a Natural tone.05

Natural Level Chartlevelnumber06naturallevelNoteslevel name12high lift10lightest blonde9very light blonde8light blonde7medium blonde6dark blonde5light brown4medium brown3dark brown2very dark brown1black

Wella Color CharmColor Charm Tonal IdentifiersexercisesTONAL IDENTIFIER CHART1231. Level Name: Tone escriptionNnaturalAashGgoldWwarmRredCcoolVviolet2. Level Name: Tone Descriptor:3. Level Name: Tone Descriptor:Multiple Tone ShadesSome shades contain a combination of two tones.exampleThe first letters, in this case W, represents the primary tone.This tone will be the dominant tonal characteristic in thisprimaryshade. The second letter, in this case V, represents the secondarytone. The secondary tone is more subtle and provides the finalsecondaryresult with soft undertones.Where you have two identical tone letter, such as with the AA shades,this means that the color results will be more intense.exercises1231. Level Name:Primary ToneSecondary Tone2. Level Name:Primary ToneSecondary Tone3. Level Name:Primary ToneSecondary Tone07

NATURAL / NEUTRO12N1200ASH / CENIZOHigh Lift BlondeRubio Intensificado12A1210Frosty AshCenizo Escarchado12AA1120Nordic BlondeRubio NórdicoGOLD / DORADO12C1290Ultra Light BlondeRubio Extra Claro12NGSurf Side BlondePlus/Rubio Espumade Mar 9BaseneutralWella Color Charm Shade Palette08BaseneutralNEUTROMedium BlondeRubio MedianoBaseneutralNEUTRODark BlondeRubio Oscuro6N6116BaseneutralNEUTROLight BrownCastaño Claro5N5115Baseneutral4N4114NEUTROMedium BrownCastaño MedianoBaseneutralNEUTRODark BrownCastaño Oscuro3N3113Baseneutral2N2112NEUTROVery Dark BrownCastaño violetNEUTROzBlackNegroAZULVIOLETA8NWLight Natural WarmBlonde/ RubioNatural Cálido ClaroBaseNeutral-BrownNEUTROCASTANO7NWMedium NaturalWarm Blonde/RubioNatural Cálido MedianoBaseNeutral-BrownNEUTROCASTANOWarm6NW Dark NaturalBlonde/RubioNatural Cálido OscuroBaseNeutral-Brown5NWNEUTROCASTANOLight Natural WarmBrown/CastañoNatural Cálido ClaroBaseNeutral-BrownNEUTROCASTANOMedium Natural4NWWarm Brown/CastañoNatural Cálido MedianoBaseNeutral-BrownNEUTROCASTANO3NWDark Natural WarmBrown/CastañoNatural Cálido OLETA6A462BaseblueAZULLight Ash BrownCastaño CenizoClaro5A246BasegreenverdeMedium Ash BrownCastaño CenizoMedianoBaseblue3A148Baseblue-greenazulDark Ash BrownCastaño CenizoOscuroazulverdeBaseNeutral-goldAMARILLOSand BlondeRubio 6BasegreenverdeDark BlondeIntense AshRubio OscuroCenizo IntensoverdeolivoLight BrownIntense AshCastaño Claro CenizoIntensoverde7NGNEUTRODORADOLight Beige BlondeRubio Beige ClaroBaseNEUTRAL-GOLDMedium AshBlonde/RubioCenizo MedianoNEUTRODORADOHoney BeigeBlonde/RubioBeige Miel9NGBaseAZUL greenDark Ash BlondeRubio CenizoOscuroAZULVIOLETABaseyellowAZULVIOLETAMedium Smokey AshBlonde/Rubio HumoCenizo LETALight Ash BlondeRubio Cenizo ClaroBaseblue7A672BasevioletPale Ash BlondeRubio CenizoPálido9A940NEUTROLight BlondeRubio ClaroAZULPalest Ash BlondeRubio Cenizo MuyPálidoBaseviolet-blueNEUTRO7N711710A1030Very Light BlondeRubio Muy Claro8N8118BaseblueNEUTROSatin BlondeRubio SatinadoNEUTRODORADOMedium BeigeBlonde/RubioBeige MedianoBaseNEUTRAL-GOLDNEUTRODORADOHoney BlondeRubio ldDORADOVIOLETASoft Pure GoldBlonde /RubioDorado Puro SuaveDORADOLight GoldenBlonde/RubioDorado ClaroDORADOSunlight BlondeBrown/RubioCastaño BrillanteDORADOHazel BlondeRubio AvellanaDORADOLight GoldenBrown/CastañoDorado ClaroDORADODark GoldenBrown/CastañoDorado OscuroDORADO

RED / ROJOWARM / asebrown6WBasebrownCaramelCaramelo7WVBaseCASTANO brown-violetNutmegNuez OLDCooling VioletVioleta FrescoWarming GoldDorado CálidoROJODORADOTan BlondeRubio TostadoPralineAlmendraCinnamonCanelaTitian Red BlondeRubio RojizoBP BlondingPlusLight CopperCobre ClaroROJODORADO6RBaseredRed-RedRojo-RojoRed Terra CottaRojo TerracotaROJOLight AuburnCastaño ered-violetROJO-DORADODark AuburnCastaño lamenCiclamenROJOVIOLETABurgundyRojo TAAZULT-18 Lightest Ash BlondeRubio asevioletT-14Cinnamon BrownCastaño 67Pale BlondeRubio PálidoBlack CherryCereza NegraVIOLETAPale Ash BlondeRubio CenizoPálidoVIOLETAAZULT-11Lightest Beige BlondeRubio ghten:goldBeige BlondeRubio setechnology09

Selecting Your ShadeHaircolor results are a combination of two factors: the shade used and theunderlying contributing pigment of the natural haircolor. There are twoconcepts that can help us better understand these factors:1) Exposed Contributing Pigment Guide and 2) Color Circle.Exposed Contributing Pigment GuideAll natural haircolor is made up of a number of natural color pigments. These pigments are either warm or coolin tone and it is the combination of these that produces the natural haircolor that we see. As we lighten the hairthese pigments are exposed, often producing warm results.levelnaturallevelnaturalhaircolorExposed Contributing Pigment10lightest blondepale yellow9very light blondeyellow8light blondeyellow7medium blondegold6dark blondegold5light brownred gold4medium brownred3dark brownred2very dark brownbrown1blackblackexampleWhen lightening hair from a natural level 5 to a level 7, you exposethe red and gold natural underlying contributing pigment which mayresult in your final haircolor being too warm. This can be controlledby using the right tone, as indicated by the Color Circle, to counteractthis natural underlying pigment.10

Color CircleThe Color Circle is a tool that explains the fundamental rules of color. These are equallyapplicable whether you are a painter, a photographer, a designer or a professional colorist.An awareness of the fundamental rules of color will allow you to confidently selectthe right shade for your client every time.primarycolorssecondary colors(mix 2 primary colors together)tertiary colorsYellowBlue Yellow GreenTertiary colors are all of the shadesin-between the primary and secondarycolors. They representRed Yellow OrangeBluethe limitless subtle variations in tonalRedcharacter and intensity.Blue Red Purple/VioletNeutralizing Unwanted TonesColors that are opposite each other on the color circle neutralize each other and can behelpful in reducing unwanted warmth or eliminating too much ash.Primary ColorsSecondary ColorsCannot be mixed from any combination ofThey are achieved by mixing theother colors (yellow, blue, red).primary colors (green, orange, violet).yellowgreenorangeblueredviolet11

Wella Color CharmMixing InstructionsWella Color Charm has twodedicated developers:Cream Developer, ideal for bowl andbrush or bottle application. Available in20 Vol and 40 Vol (32 oz and 4 oz bottles)Clear Developer, ideal for bottle application.Available in 20 Vol (32 oz bottle).Normal Mixing Determine the desired amountof product needed. Choose the application method—applicator bottle or bowl and brush. 1:2 Mixing Ratio: mix together well—1 part Wella Color Charm PermanentHaircolor to 2 parts Wella ColorDEVELOPER SELECTION GUIDE10 volume Same depth or darker(Mix equalthan natural haircolorparts 20volume anddistilled water) Deposit with minimal lift,depending on textureand porosityCharm Developer. Up to 2 levels of liftexample20 volume Optimum coverageon white hairMix one whole bottle of ColorCharm Liquid Haircolor with3 oz of Color Charm developer. 3-4 levels of liftTip: 1 oz Color Charm PermanentHaircolor 2 oz WellaColor Charm Developer.12Begin application immediately.40 volume Maximum lift for brighterand clearer blonde results

Wella Color CharmShade Level Developer Chart1 Black2 Very Dark Brown3 Dark Brown4 Medium Brown5 Light Brown6 Dark Blonde7 Medium Blonde8 Light Blonde9 Very Light Blonde10 Lightest BlondeNATURAL LEVELTARGET l20Vol20Vol20Vol20Vol9Very SSDOUBLEPROCESSDOUBLEPROCESS2Very UBLEPROCESSDOUBLEPROCESSDOUBLEPROCESS13

Wella Color CharmApplication InstructionsStrand TestPerforming a strand test is always recommended, especially if hair is porous or haspreviously been subjected to lighteners, permanent waves, chemical hair relaxers or haircolor.Mix a small amount of desired color according to directions and apply to selected strandsof hair in a discreet area. After 30 minutes, rinse strand and check color result and hair condition.Lightening: First Time Color ApplicationWhen final result will be lighter than the natural haircolor:1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color to lengths and ends, starting 1-inch away from the scalp.2. Develop for 15 minutes.3. Mix fresh color and apply to untreated hair at the scalp area.4. Develop for an additional 15-30 minutes or until color is even.Same Depth or Darker: First Time Color ApplicationWhen final result will be the same depth or darker than the natural haircolor:1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color from scalp to ends.2. When application is complete, using a wide-tooth comb, gently comb the product throughthe hair to ensure even distribution.143. Develop 30 minutes or up to 45 minutes if additional depth or gray coverage is needed.

Re-growth Application1. Take ¼-inch partings and apply color to re-growth area.2. Develop 30 minutes or up to 45 minutes if additionaldepth or gray coverage is needed.3. Use color-balancing procedure to refresh lengthsand ends of the hair if needed.Stylist tip: Fine sections should be taken in orderto achieve thorough and even saturation.Notes15

Wella Color Charm AdditivesThe use of Wella Color Charm Additives gives you evengreater control of your final color result by opening up almostlimitless possibilities.Warming GoldAdditiveThe Warming Gold Additive can be added to anyexisting Wella Color Charm shade to add more warmthto your final result. This will provide greater definitionand vibrancy to red, gold and rich brown shades.To use the Warming Gold Additive add betweenCooling VioletAdditiveThe Cooling Violet Additive can be added to anyexisting Wella Color Charm shade to reduce unwanted2-4 capfuls of Warming Gold Additive to a full mixtureof Wella Color Charm. The more Warming GoldAdditive you use, the more pronounced the effect willbe on your final result.warm tones. This is ideal if your client’s hair hasBlonding Plusa high degree of natural warm tone (underlyingWhen working on a natural level 6 or lighter, you canpigment), or if you want to create a more matte typeadd the Blonding Plus Additive to your formula toof result.increase the lifting action. This can be added to anyWella Color Charm shade on a level 9 or above.To use the Cooling Additive, add between 2-4 capfulsof Cooling Violet Additive to a full mixture of WellaTo use the Blonding Plus Additive, mix 1 part ColorColor Charm. The more Cooling Violet Additive youCharm color, 1 part Blonding Plus additive and 4use, the more pronounced the effect will be on yourparts 20 volume Color Charm developer. Apply to thefinal result.hair as usual and develop up to 45 minutes. Checkfrequently for desired result.Tip: When working with darker shadeBlonding Plus should never be used alone and shouldselections, use more Cooling Violet Additivenot be used with 40 volume developer.to achieve more noticeable results. LighterIt is only to be used with Color Charm shadesshade selections will normally require less CoolingLevel 9 or lighter.Violet Additive to achieve yourdesired result.16

High Lift BlondingWella Color Charm high lift blondes will give you beautiful clear blonderesults with a variety of tones. They are best suitedon clients with a natural level 6 or above.NATURALASHGOLD12N / 120012A / 121012AA / 112012C / 129012NGhigh lift blondeFrosty AshNordic blondeUltra Light BlondeSurf Side Blonde PlusTo use the High Lift Blonde shades mix:30 minutes or up to 45 minutes for1 part Wella Color Charm liquid color withmaximum lift.2 parts Wella Color Charm clear developer.For maximum lift (up to 4 levels) useApply to the hair using either an applicatorWella Color Charm 40 volume developerbottle or bowl and brush. Develop forwith Wella Color Charm liquid color.17

Wella Color Charm TonersWella Color Charm provides 5 different toning shades, in threedifferent toner families (Ash, Beige and Silver). These can be usedto create beautiful soft blondes with just the right tonal character tosuit your client.To use these toning shades you must firstprelighten the hair to approximately half a shadelighter than your desired result. Once the desiredlevel of lift is achieved, remove the lightener byshampooing thoroughly.Mix 1 part Wella Color Charm toner with 2 parts20 volume developer, apply to towel dried hair anddevelop for up to 30 minutes.Check frequently for desired result.silverT-10pale blondeashT-14pale ash blondeT-18lightest ash blondePRE-LIGHTEN TO PALE YELLOW18BEIGET-11lightest beige blondeT-35beige blondePRE-LIGHTENTO GOLD

Optimum Gray Hair CoverageTop tips for achieving optimum coverage on gray hair:1. Select a shade on a level 8 or darker for best coverage. Lighter shades will createa more translucent effect.2. Shades from the Natural or Gold family will produce a more natural result with optimum coverage.3. Always mix with 20 volume Wella Color Charm developer.4. Apply product generously, starting at the area of the head that has the highest percentageof white or is most resistant.5. Process for 30 minutes, check and extend to 45 minutes if needed.6. For better coverage on hair that is over 50% white, mix with equal parts of a Wella Color CharmNatural or Gold shade at the same level.exampleNatural Haircolor:Client is a natural level 5 with 75% white75% whiteDesired Result:Slightly lighter with red violet tonesRecommended Formula:1 oz 6RV 1 oz 6N 4 oz Color Charm 20 vol. developerApplication:1) Take fine partings and apply color generously to each section of hair.2) Process for up to 45 minutes. Check frequently for desired result.exercisesNatural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 6 with 50 % white50% whiteDesired Result, Same level with a Red Gold toneFormula, Shade/s UsedDeveloperNatural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 3 with 25 % white25% whiteDesired Result, Two levels lighter with a red toneFormula, Shade/s UsedDeveloperNatural Haircolor, Client is a natural level 6 with 75 % white75% whiteDesired Result, Same level with a Gold toneFormula, Shade/s UsedDeveloper19

Wella Color CharmConsultation GuideStep 1Determine the client’s natural haircolor level using theswatches in the Natural Shade Family of the WellaColor Charm Haircolor Swatchbook as a guide.Step 2Determine the percentage of gray/white hair.If the client is over 50% gray, please see the section titledOptimum Coverage on Gray/White Hair.Step 3Select the desired level and tone of the desired colorresult. The Color Charm Swatchbook shows the manyoptions available.Step 4Select the appropriate developer to achievethe desired shade result.20

Red VelvetStep-by-StepTechniqueBold panels of color will create vibrantcontrasts that will enhance your haircutand create interest in your client’s totallook. Ideal for one-length hair of all lengths.Hair condition: Good Condition / Starting level: 5 /Previous haircolor: Demi permanent / Hair length: CHIN LENGTH /Target Result: contrasting panels of red / Technique: Red VelvetStep-by-StepStep 1 Take a teardrop-Step 2 Subdivide thisStep 3 Apply formulaStep 4 Apply formula B toshaped section fromteardrop se

Wella Color Charm 5 Tonal Families 04 wella color charm organizes its shade range in a logical way utilizing a color-coded tonal

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