5 Specialist Skin Camoufl Age (B22) - Cengage EMEA

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5OREISTOCK ICONOGENICSpecialist skincamouflage (B22)FARRINGTON-MOB22 Unit Learning ObjectivesThis unit is all about providing skin camouflage applications tocover a wide range of often complex conditions and their aimis to restore the skin colouration to the surrounding skin tone.It also covers the use of a variety of specialist camouflageproducts, together with client instruction in the application,maintenance and removal of their own skin camouflage.There are five learning outcomes for Unit B22 that youmust achieve competently:1 Maintain safe and effective methods of workingwhen providing specialist skin camouflageservices2 Consult, plan and prepare for specialist skincamouflage3 Carry out specialist skin camouflage4 Instruct and advise the client on cosmetic skincamouflage techniques5 Provide aftercare adviceYour assessor will observe your performance on at leastfour occasions involving four different clients, withthe permission of the client.From the range statement you must practically demonstrate that you have: used three out of the five camouflage products(camouflage creams, camouflage powders, settingproducts, skin stains, faux tan products)*(continued on the next page)O-86ANNETTEThis chapter covers Unit B22 Specialist skin camouflage.R O LE MO DELAnnetteFarrington-MooreHead beauty lecturer/trainerfor Ellisons Academy“Currently I am tthe head beauty lecturer/trainer for Ellisons Academy in the Midlands.I teach and develop courses for postgraduatestudents and also provide courses for those just starting outin the industry.Originally, I came into the industry with my make-up skillsas a qualified fashion and photographic make-up artist andcolour analysis and image consultant. It was some yearslater that I decided to train and become a qualified beautytherapist. I worked in salons to gain experience, and thenopened my own salon. I gained my teaching qualificationsand assessors award and worked for various colleges inthe Midlands delivering VTCT fashion and photographicmake-up, beauty and holistic courses to students.My career journey, which spans over 25 years, has been sorewarding and I love it. It has enabled me to meet so manydiverse, interesting people over the years and is always soversatile. I have worked on fashion shows creating catwalkmake-up, worked with photographers doing shoots onlocation, worked with cosmetic companies/houses promoting their products, and worked with brides on their weddingday. I have taught and inspired students/colleagues to gainthe skills and knowledge required to enable them to pursuetheir career. What a fantastic industry to be involved in.

O-87 used all of the application tools used all of the consultation methods addressed all camouflage needs dealt with one of the necessary actions* carried out application on all areas to becamouflaged used all camouflage instructional techniques provided all types of aftercare advice.*However, you must prove to your assessor that you havethe necessary knowledge, understanding and skills to beable to perform competently in respect of all items in theseranges.Most evidence of your performance will be gathered fromthe observations made by your assessor, but you may berequired to produce other evidence to support your performance if your assessor has not been present, e.g. videoand stills photography.When providing specialist skin camouflage services it isimportant to use the skills you have learnt in the followingcore mandatory units:ALWAYSREMEM B E RSkin Stain productsSkin staining products are available and can be used as a skincamouflage product. They areuseful because they give a longerlasting effect than make up. Theyare applied directly onto clean skinand their use includes applicationto draw in eyebrows, create a lipline or colour in the areola of thebreast. These areas may havebeen damaged or lost due to scarring or skin grafts as a result of anaccident or surgery.The product is often in the form ofa felt tip pen but can be in smallpots and would be applied with abrush. As it is a stain it can last forseveral days so care must be taken to apply it correctly first time. Itwill then gradually fade or can beremoved with make-up remover.Unit G22 Health and safetyUnit H32 Promotional activitiesEssential anatomy and physiology knowledge requirements for this unit, B22, are identified on the checklist in the textbook, in Chapter 2, pages 12 and 13. This chapter alsodiscusses anatomy and physiology specific to this unit.Corrective and camouflage make-upSpecialist techniques are required for corrective make-up and camouflage make-up.People asking for this service are often distressed about some aspect of their appearance. This can vary from a dislike of their normal face shape or feature(s), through todisfigurement from disease or injury. If a person is distressed about their appearance theirquality of life can be psychologically affected.Corrective and camouflage make-up application techniques are usually carried out usingproducts specifically made for this purpose. Corrective make-up is applied to conceal areas or change the appearance of thefacial features. Camouflage make-up is opaque and is used to conceal and disguise an areacompletely.TOPT IPSkin graftA skin graft is where skinis moved from one part ofthe body to another to aidskin repair. This may resultin differing skin tones andscarring.CHAPTER 5 (B22) SPECIALIST SKIN CAMOUFLAGE(continued)

O-88LEVEL 3 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY THERAPYProblems that may be camouflaged Scars: injury, post-operative, burns, keloid (lumpy scar tissue forming at the siteof wounds), acne vulgaris, raised or discoloured. Burns: scars which are ridged or discoloured. Skin grafts: where the skin is a different colour from the surrounding area andmay also be hairy. Birthmarks: strawberry naevus, capillary naevus (port wine stain), darker pigmented areas. Bruising: temporary post-operative or post-injury bruising. Pigment disorders: hypo-pigmentation (reduced melanin production), e.g.vitiligo (white patches); hyper-pigmentation (increased melanin production), e.g.chloasmata (brown patches). Vascular disorders: acne rosacea (chronic inflammation of the skin on the nose andBirthmark before cosmetic camouflagecheeks caused by dilation of the blood capillaries), telangiectasia (dilated capillariesappearing on the face, body or legs), varicose veins (deep blue and purple veins on thelegs), erythema and redness possibly caused by acne rosacea or general high colour. Tattoos: these may be professional or amateur but both are permanent. Age spots: darker areas of pigmentation on the face, body and hands. Moles: large brown naevi appearing on the face and body. Dark skin around eyes: dark circles due to illness, stress, lack of sleep, hereditary causes.TOPT IPVitiligo and chloasmataVitiligo is commonly seen around the eyes, mouth and hands; chloasmataare commonly seen on the forehead, cheek area and around the lips.Following cosmetic camouflage applicationOutcome 1: Maintain safe and effective methods of workingwhen providing specialist skin camouflage services1 tional procedures and manufacturers’ instructions.Setting up and monitoring the treatment area to meet organiza-2 client and the skin camouflage.Making sure that environmental conditions are suitable for theUnit B22 Maintainsafe and effectivemethods of workingwhen providing specialist skin camouflage services3 meets accepted industry and organizational requirements.Ensuring your personal hygiene, protection and appearance4 Effectively disinfecting your hands prior to service. 5 risk of injury while working.Ensuring your own posture and position minimizes fatigue andBrush cleaner

O-89HHEALTH& SAFETY7 for ease and safety of use.HHygienerecommendationsThe department of health hasTissued strict hygiene recommenisdations in the application of skindcamouflage products. Researchcthese recommendations.thPositioning skin camouflage products and application tools8 suitable for the skin camouflage application.Ensuring the client is in a comfortable and relaxed position9 throughout the skin camouflage.Maintaining accepted industry hygiene and safety practices(Continued)Unit B22 Maintainsafe and effectivemethods ofworking whenproviding specialistskin camouflageservices10 client throughout the service.Adopting a positive, polite and reassuring manner towards the Respecting the client’s modesty, privacy and any sensitivities to11their personal appearance.12 organizational policy.Checking the client’s well-being at regular intervals according to1 3 Disposing of waste materials safely and correctly. Ensuring the skin camouflage is cost-effective and is carried out14within a commercially viable time.15 plete, legible and signed by the client and practitioner.Ensuring client record cards are up-to-date, accurate, com-1 6 Leaving the treatment area in a condition suitable for future services. Sterilization and disinfectionMake-up must be removed from containers using clean, disinfected or disposable spatulas. Colours can be mixed on a disinfected or disposable colour-mixing palette. Applicators such as brushes and sponges can either be disposable, or alternatively should bethoroughly washed using a soap-free antibacterial cleanser, rinsed in cold, clean water,allowed to dry and then stored in an UV cabinet.Professional make-up brush cleaner can be sprayed onto the brushes, dried and thenremoved onto tissue along with the make-up. The quick antibacterial action allows thebrushes to be used again almost immediately.ACT IV IT YAResearch which types ofRcamouflage make-up arecavailable and how you wouldabuy them. Compare the costs ofbssetting up a range for the salon.“Clean and sterilizeyour make-up brushesand applicators aftereach client to prevent cross-infection.Annette Farrington-MooreHHEALTH& SAFETYPrevention of cross-infectionThree sets of make-up brushesare required to allow for effectivedisinfection between clients. Have apencil sharpener available for lip andeye pencils – sharpening will allow afresh surface for each client. Neverapply make-up over broken skin,and only over scar tissue when it iscompletely healed.Short nails are important when applying the make-up by hand to avoid make-up collecting underneath the nails during application.HEALTH& SAFETYBrushes and spongesBrushes and sponges kept damp will encourage bacterial growth, possibly resulting in skinirritation and cross-infection. Wash thoroughly and store dry, preferably in an UV cabinet.CHAPTER 5 (B22) SPECIALIST SKIN CAMOUFLAGE6 Ensuring all tools are cleaned using the correct methods. TOPT IPBrushesFine brushes are requiredwhen disguising small scarsand blemishes.

O-90LEVEL 3 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY THERAPYIS TD M A T E R IA L S LE Q U IP M E N T A NCouch or beauty chairwith reclining back and headrest andan easy to clean surfaceGeneral range of facial make-upcosmeticsto suit different skin types, tones andage groupsSpecialized cleansingand toning preparations efficient atremoving waterproof make-upTowels(two) freshly laundered for each client –one to be placed over the head of thecouch, the other over the area of theservice to protect the client’s garmentsSpatulasdisposableMake-up application brushesassorted to apply different productsTrolley or other surfaceon which to place everythingClient record cardLarge white facial tissuesto blot the skin after cleansing andmoisturiser applicationEyelash curlerstool used to temporarily curl theeyelashesDisposable tissuesuch as bedroll – to cover work surfaceand the couch or beauty chairto record the client’s personal details,products used and details of themake-up applicationYOU WILL ALSO NEED:Moisturiser To facilitate make-up application and create abarrier between the skin and the make-upMagnifying lamp To inspect the area after cleansingCotton wool Dry and damp, prepared for each clientBowls To hold the prepared cotton woolRange of concealing and camouflageand contouring and general make-up(specialist make-up products) to treat avariety of skin types and coloursFalse eyelashesapplied to enhance the eyes asrequiredHEALTH& SAFETYContaminationDo not put any applicators that havebeen in contact with the client’s skindirectly in the make-up containers. The make-up may becomecontaminated with bacteria, resultingin cross-infection.“Fixing powder Essential for a matt finish, which absorbsfacial oils and perspiration, giving the make-up durabilityFoundations Light and darkLoose powder Applied to set the foundation, disguise minorskin blemishes making the skin appear smoother and oil-freeMirror To show the make-up during and after applicationBright lighting Ideally daylightYou must use good quality products and equipment and keep them in aclean and prestigious condition. To prevent cross infection brushes mustbe sterilized between clients. Use disposable applicators where possible.Ensure your model/subject is positioned correctly so they are comfortable and you arenot incurring any back problems to yourself.Annette Farrington-Moore

O-91DateBeauty therapist nameClient nameDate of birthAddressPostcodeEmail addressLandline telephone numberName of doctorDoctor’s address and telephone numberMobile telephone numberRelated medical history (Conditions that may restrict or prohibit service application.)Are you taking any medication? (Especially antibiotics, steroids, the pill.)CONTRA-INDICATIONS REQUIRING MEDICAL REFERRAL(Preventing cosmetic camouflage make-up.)CONTRA-INDICATIONS WHICH RESTRICT SERVICE(Service may require adaptation.) post-operative swelling and bruising laser service to remove the blemishskin disordersskin infectionseye infectionsswelling, irritation or sorenesssuspicious moles (showing signs of growing, changingcolour, itching, soreness or weeping)HEAD AND BODY SERVICE AREAS head and bodyarmslegsother face chest shoulders/backCAMOUFLAGE NEEDS-(AREA TO BE COVERED) corrective make-up to conceal or change featuresscars tissue: -pigmentationerythematattoosSPECIAL NOTES AND CONSIDERATIONS(e.g. skin very sensitive, imperfection very dark and difficultto conceal)Beauty therapist signature (for reference)Client signature (confirmation of details)LIFESTYLE active exercising and swimmingactive exercise onlyno specific exercisegenerally busy, e.g. family and jobOBJECTIVES OF SERVICE to be used daily to be used when needed to be used for a special occasionAPPLICATION TOOLS brushesfingersspongesvelour puffsPRODUCTS USED camouflage cream – colour camouflage powder – colour setting product – colourADDITIONAL PRODUCTS skin stains faux tan productsCHAPTER 5 (B22) SPECIALIST SKIN CAMOUFLAGESample client record card

O-92LEVEL 3 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY THERAPYSample client record card (continued)SERVICE ADVICECorrective make-up lesson – allow 1 hourAirbrushing corrective make-up – allow 1 hourCamouflage make-up lesson for any area – allow 1 hourCamouflagelarge area – allow 1 hourmedium-sized area – allow 1/2 hourtattoo – allow 1/2 hourSERVICE PLANRecord relevant details of your service and lesson and advice provided for future reference. Ensure the client’s records areup-to-date, accurate and fully completed following service. Non-compliance may invalidate insurance.DURING take a photo of the area to be camouflaged with the client’s permission explain the skin preparation and why it is important explain each stage of choosing the right colour of make-up and mixing it to match the skin tone demonstrate the application and then encourage the client to do it themselves with your help note if there is any reaction or evidence of skin sensitivityAFTER record the results of the make-up application take a photo of the result record which products and colours have been used for future reference discuss the best way for the client to keep the camouflage make-up looking good instruct the client on the removal of the products instruct the client on the hygiene necessary for make-up applicationRETAIL OPPORTUNITIES the client will need to buy all the products you have used in order to successfully apply/remove the camouflage at home recommend skincare products for home use to maintain the skin in good condition of the face and body advise if there are any other services which may help the condition, e.g. facials, eye services, airbrush tanning products/substances and environments that should be avoidedEVALUATION record comments of the client’s satisfaction with the service and the result if the camouflage effect is not what the client wanted, then record this and why record how you may change the make-up application next time to achieve a better resultHEALTH AND SAFETY advise the client how to look after the area after the service to avoid any unwanted reaction advise the client of the appropriate action to take if there is an unwanted skin reactionSERVICE MODIFICATION(examples include:) changing the brand of make-up to one that suits the client’s skin better improving the skin condition with facials or skin services before make-up applicationPreparation of the service areaThe service room should have good ventilation so that the client’s skin does not becometoo warm. The service couch or make-up chair should be clean and covered with freshtowels, and/or disposable bedroll as required. The trolley should display all the requiredmake-up, applicators (including sponges, spatulas and brushes) and skin cleansers,

O-93Preparation of the therapistTOPT IPDry areasDo not use moisturiser onan area that is to be camouflaged, unless it is very dry. Itmay change the colour of themake-up or prevent it fromsetting properly.Complete a record card during the consultation, or if this is a repeat visit, have theclient’s record card ready. Hands must be hygienically cleaned before touching the client.The beauty therapist’s presentation must meet the organization’s and the industry’s professional standards. A clean, fresh uniform and smart appearance, and, if female, preferably wearing make-up, will make the client feel relaxed and reassured that they are incapable hands.“You need to listen to your client, respect, accept and support them. Focuson them. Remember body language is as important as the words youspeak.Annette Farrington-MooreHEALTH& SAFETYPostureAlways position the clientensuring that your workingposture is correct, minimizing therisk of injury.Preparation of the clientThe client must be made to feel relaxed and confident on the service couch or make-upchair. Protect the client’s clothing with tissue or a make-up cape. When working on the face, have the client sitting up so that the face is viewedresting in its natural shape and contours. Cover collars and clothing and, if necessary, hair. When working on the arms and shoulders, have the client sitting up with the areato be worked on free of clothing. Cover any clothes nearby with large tissue toavoid spillage or marking.BEST PRACTICEPrevention of crossinfection Use disposable applicatorswhere possible. Clean and disinfect brushes,sponges and applicators thatare not disposable after everyclient. Wash your hands before everyservice and on-going as necessary during service application. Do not treat areas that appearinflamed or infected. Do not dip your applicators orfingers into the make-up. When working on the abdomen, have the client lie on their back, support thehead and under the knees to ensure client comfort. When working on the back, the client can either sit up with their back towardsyou or lie flat on their front – whichever is best for them and for you. When working on the legs, have the area to be camouflaged exposed and havethe client lying comfortably either on their back (for the fronts of the legs) or ontheir side or front (for the backs of the legs).The area to be treated should be cleansed and toned with the appropriate skincarepreparations. If moisturiser is to be used, it must be absorbed before make-up is applied.This usually takes about 10 minutes

CHAPTER 5 (B22) SPECIALIST SKIN CAMOUFLAGE O-87 Essential anatomy and physiology knowledge requirements for this unit, B22, are identi-fi ed on the checklist in the textbook, in Chapter 2, pages 12 and 13.

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