By Ken Gilliland

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by Ken Gilliland

OverviewAloha. The island chain which now comprises the state of Hawaii was first settled byPolynesian explorers sometime between 800- 1000 AD. By the time the first Europeansmade contact in the late 18th century, the native Hawaiians had established a rich andthriving culture which was strictly divided along caste lines. Social status was marked bywhat a person wore and this convention continued even after the arrival of Christianmissionaries who forced their Western modes of dress on the native Hawaiians.The pre-European dress included three distinct items; grass skirts, Kapa cloth garmentsand feathered attire.Grass Skirts. Easily, the most identifiable symbol of Hawaii because of its associationwith traditional hula dancers, grass skirts were actually constructed from the outer barkand leaves of the banana tree. The skirt's waistband was tightly braided and fit thewearer snugly. Longer strands of fiber hung down from the waistband. Traditionally, thesame fibrous material was fashioned into anklets and worn during ceremonial dances.Kapa Cloth. This is also known as "bark cloth" by Westerners or "tapa" throughout therest of the Pacific Rim. It was the material from which the most common articles ofHawaiian clothing were made. Traditionally manufactured by women, kapa cloth ismade from the bark of the paper mulberry tree through a complex process whichrenders the bark into a pliable, felt-like fabric. Kapa cloth was often dyed or printed withbold, colorful patterns. The finished cloth was then fashioned into the "malo," the tuckedskirt worn by men, or the "pa'u," the short skirt worn by women.Feathered Attire. These items, worn by Hawaiian nobility and royalty, were constructedfrom a base of finely woven fiber netting and thousands of brightly colored feathers in abold design. Lesser chiefs wore shorter feathered capes while kings and high-rankingofficials wore longer cloaks. The feathered cloak of King Kamehameha was composedof approximately 450,000 feathers of the mamo bird. Each mamo bird only yieldedabout six or seven of the appropriate feathers. Thus the making of these Hawaiiangarments led to the extinction of several species of birdsThe Royal Hawaiian set has two versions of male traditional Polynesian clothing forboth the Poser and DAZ Studio versions of Dusk. Included in both sets are a FeatheredCape and Crown, a Kapa loincloth, necklaces and leaf/fern anklets, wrist and headbands.

Poser UseIn the Poser version of Royal Hawaiian, you will find the Clothing items divided into three areasof the Poser Library; Figure/Character files (.cr2), Prop files (.pp2) and Material files (.mc6).The material files do not contain clothing items, simply material variation for them.What’s included and where it can to found: Figures (.cr2 ) in the “Hawaiian Royals” foldero Dusk-Loin Clotho Dusk-Hawaiian Crowno Dusk-Beaded Necklaceo Dusk-Whale tooth Necklaceo Dusk-Flower LeiProps (.pp2 ) in the “Hawaiian Royals” foldero Dusk-Hawaiian Dynamic Cape (Dynamic Cloth item—see Dynamic Cloth tutorial)o Dusk-Hawaiian Cape (morphs to match 20 of Hivewire 3D’s “Everyday” poses)o Dusk-Leaf Crown (Smart-prop)o Dusk-Ankleband L & Dusk-Ankleband R (Smart-prop)o Dusk-Wristband L & Dusk-Wristband R (Smart-prop)Materials (.mc6) in the “Hawaiian Royals” foldero Additional material settings for all clothing items.Attaching Clothing ItemsThe process for attaching clothing items to a figure is easy in Poser. For Figure/Character files(.cr2) you will need to use the “Conform to” button found in the “Figure” drop-down list on themain Poser tool bar. You will “Conform” the clothing item to the “Dusk” figure. Fit morphs for theclothing items can be found in the BODY sections of the clothing item in the Parameters Tab.Loading clothing items before you load the figure may cause conforming issues. Delete theclothes to load the figure first.With the Prop files (.pp2), you will need to select the base figure first, the Dusk model, then loadthe Clothing Prop files. Morphs, size and positioning adjustments for these items can be foundby selecting the Clothing Prop and using the Parameters Tab.Applying Materials to Clothing ItemsTo change the material on a clothing item, select it and go to the Materials Library. Apply thealternate material to the clothing item by clicking the library icon. In the case of thetransparent ribbing materials for the Hawaiian Crown, you will also have to turn the“CrestRibs” morph to “1” to successfully create the ribbed look.

DAZ Studio UseIn the DAZ Studio version of Royal Hawaiian, you will find all the Clothing items and alternatematerials in the Studio “ People / Dusk / Clothing” folders.What’s included and where it can to found: Figures (.duf ) in the “Hawaiian Royals” foldero Dusk-Loin Clotho Dusk-Hawaiian Crowno Dusk-Hawaiian Cape (for use with Hivewire3D’s “Everyday Poses” only)o Dusk-Flower Leio Dusk-Beaded Necklaceo Dusk-Whale tooth Necklaceo Dusk-Leafy Ankleband-L & Leafy Ankleband-Ro Dusk-Leafy Wristband-L & Leafy Wristband-Ro Dusk-Leafy Crowno Dusk ‘Ohi’a Lehua CrownProps (.pp2) in the Poser “Runtime/Props/Hivewire 3D/Dusk/Clothes/Royal Hawaiian” Foldero Dusk-Hawaiian Cape (Dynamic Cloth) Poser 9 Required. See Tutorial.Materials (.dsa) in the “Materials” sub-foldero Additional material settings for all clothing items.Attaching Clothing ItemsThe process for attaching clothing items to a figure is easy in DAZ Studio. Select the Duskcharacter and click the clothing item you wish the character to wear. DAZ Studio willautomatically fit/conform the clothing item to the figure. If you accidently forgot to select theDusk figure first, you can select the clothing item and in Parameters/Misc there is a “Fit to”button.Most Dusk shapes are supported for the clothing items included in this package. Someadditional “Fit” morphs can be found by selecting the clothing item and looking in theParameters/Morphs section.Applying Materials to Clothing ItemsTo change the material on a clothing item, select it and go to the Materials subfolder. Apply thealternate material to the clothing item by clicking the library icon. In the case of thetransparent ribbing materials for the Hawaiian Crown, you will also have to turn the“CrestRibs” morph to “1” to successfully create the ribbed look.

The Dynamic Cloth CapeDAZ Studio currently has no viable Dynamic Cloth feature. The DAZ Studio version hastwo solutions to this issue. Included is a “Hawaiian Cape” prop which SmartProps to theDusk character and has morph to match 20 of Hivewire3D’s “Everyday Poses for Dusk”.This allows the DAZ Studio user some ability to use the included cape. While theposes’ arms and chest areas have strict limitations on what you can do additionally withthe pose, you do have flexibility with the head, hands, hips and legs.The other solution for DAZ Studio use with the Cape is for those who own Poser v6 .The Poser counterpart for this set has been. It is possible to use the Dynamic ClothCape in DAZ Studio by running a Dynamic Cloth Simulation in Poser to the character’spose and then saving the shaped cape as a prop, character or .obj file and importing itinto DAZ Studio and applying the included DAZ Studio material settings.

Using the PoserDynamic Cloth Cape1. Go to the Figure Library and load the Dusk Character.Do not alter the figure from the “T” Pose.2. The Dynamic Cape is loaded2. With the Dusk Character selected, go to the Propsonto the figure in the “T” Pose.Library and load the “Dusk-Hawaiian Cape”. The capesmart props to the “chest” part of Dusk.3. Move the Animation slider to Frame 30. (The Animationslider is beneath the Document Window. See theillustration to the left.) With Dusk still selected apply apose or manually create a pose for Dusk. The cape willnot follow the pose—that’s okay.Also, it is best not to have any items on the upper half ofthe body until after the Cloth draping has been completedas sometimes the cloth will cling to wrist bands ornecklaces giving undesirable results.4. Click the Cloth Tab to enter the Cloth Room.5. Under “1. Cloth Simulation” click the “NewSimulation” button. A “Simulation Settings” dialogbox will appear. I suggest staying on the default 30frames under “Simulation Range” fora test run. The more framessimulated, the more draping willoccur.One more thing before closing thisdialog box- under “Additional ClothCollision Options” put a check mark

in the box in front of “Cloth Self-Collision”.Now Press OK to close the dialogbox and create the simulation.6. Under “2. Cloth Objects” (inPoser 7 this is “2. Cloth”) clickthe “Clothify” button. Find andselect the “Royal HawaiianCape”. Then to close the dialogbox press the “Clothify” button.7. Still under “2. Cloth Objects” (in Poser 7 this is “2. Cloth”) click the “CollideAgainst” button. In the “Cloth Collision Objects” dialog box click the“Add/Remove” button. In the “Select Objects” box put an “X” in front of “Dusk”.More advanced usersmay selectively choosewhich body parts youwant the cape to drapeon. Click “OK” to closethe “Select Objects”box, and then click“OK” to close the“Cloth CollisionObjects” dialog box.8. The last step is to goto “4. DynamicControls” and click“Calculate theSimulation”. It will runthrough the number offrames youchose and simulatedraping.

You’ll notice that the figure returns to the “T” pose, but over the 30 frames thecape will adhere to your selected “final” pose. It is important to start with the “T”pose so that the Clothifying process will understand where to place the cloth in amore naturally draped way as it tracks the arm movements to your chosen pose.If you are unhappy with the draping you can press the “Clear Simulation” buttonand adjust the frames or items like “Fold Resistance”, “Cloth Density”, etc. andcalculate the simulation again. And if you chose to add more frames, for moredraping calculations, remember to move your pose to the final frame.9. Once you get the look you like, click the Pose Tab to close the Cloth Room.Now it is okay to accessorize the Dusk character with leaf wrist bands, necklacesand crowns.

A Passion for Bird FeathersWhile Polynesians hunted some birds for food, their primary focus was actuallycollecting feathers to adorn the feathered Crowns and capes of the nobility and royalfamilies. Polynesians would often construct snares to catch the birds, then pull out therequired feathers and release the birds back into the wild. Whether the majority of birdsactually survived this ordeal is debated, however it is clear that several bird species,such as the mamo, became extinct at least partially due to feather collection. Thefeathered cloak of King Kamehameha was composed of approximately 450,000feathers of the mamo bird and each mamo only had 6-7 useable yellow feathers.The feathers most commonly used in capes and crowns were red, from the 'i'iwi(Vestiaria coccinea) and apapane (Himatione sanguinea). and yellow, from the 'o'o(Moho nobilis) and mamo (Drepanis pacifica). Black feathers from the 'o'o were alsoused, and more rarely greenfrom the 'o'u (Psithacirostrapsittacea). The feathers fromthese birds were fairly small,and before they were attachedto the netting-foundation, theywere carefully picked over andarranged in bunches accordingto size. One bunch examinedhad as many as eighteen smallred feathers. In making up theyellow feathers, some shorterred feathers were placed overtheir quills to form what wastermed a pa'u (skirt). The quillsThe Hawai’i Mamo (Drepanis pacifica) went extinct in 1899of each bunch were tiedtogether with a strip of olona bast, the inner bark or bast of the olona plant. Womenwere allowed to sort feather bunches but the making of the garments was restricted tomen. With the lower part of the netting toward the worker, the feathers were tied to thenetting in overlapping rows that commenced at the lower border. This commencementmethod with the free or tip-ends of the feather-bunches directed toward the lower edge,left the meshes above or beyond clear for successive rows. The feather-bunchesoverlapped laterally and the rows were spaced close enough for the free ends tooverlap the row below it and thus completely cover the surface of the netting-foundation.The result was a smooth surface that resembles velvet or plush.

The Song of KalâkauaKalâkaua a he inoaKa pua mae ole i ka laEa ea ea eaKalâkaua is his nameA flower that wilts not in the sunTra la la laKe pua maila ika maunaKe kuahiwi o MaunakeaEa ea ea eaBlooming on the summitOf the mountain, Mauna KeaTra la la laKe a maila i KilaueaMalamalama o wahine kapuEa ea ea eaBurning there at KilaueaThe light of the sacred womanTra la la laA luna o Uwe KahunaKa pali kapu o Ka auEa ea ea eaAbove Uwe KahunaThe sacred cliff of Ka auTra la la laEa mai ke ali i kia manuUa wehi i ka hulu o ka mamoEa ea ea eaThe bird catching chief risesAdorned with feathers of the mamo birdTra la la laKalâkaua a he inoaKa pua mae ole i ka laEa ea ea eaKalâkaua is his nameA flower that wilts not in the sunTra la la la

Special Thanks .my beta team (FlintHawk, Jan and Rhonda) with special assistance from Nerd3D &RyverthornHawaiian themed sets available through Hivewire3DCopyrighted 2015 by Ken Gilliland songbirdremix.comOpinions expressed on this booklet are solely that of the author, Ken Gilliland, and may or may not reflect theopinions of the publisher

DAZ Studio currently has no viable Dynamic Cloth feature. The DAZ Studio version has two solutions to this issue. Included is a “Hawaiian Cape” prop which SmartProps to the Dusk character and has morph to match 20 of Hivewire3D’s “Everyday Poses for Dusk”. This allows the DAZ Stu

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