Shaker Chest Of Drawers - Fine Woodworking
WTAUNTON’SShaker Chest of DrawersAproject planfor buildingaclassicchestof any sizeFor more FREEproject plans fromFine Woodworking CLICK HERE NOW!Build an Oak Bookcaseh chenbcenrkobrkurdyoW, Stleturdy WSimpS,leYSimpFrom Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2Fromson 2B y A s2C h r i s t i A n Aing, ASeaorkasSe onin Woodwrtedou canthank Mike Pekovich,rking,ting StaFine Woodworking’sodwoart direcAWot i A nFrom Get ted intor, fordesigning thishsimpler i sbuts AtookC a straightforbookcase.HeB y An Adadog Star stylishi Awithward form--an oak bookcasei s tGettinh rand rabbet Cjoints--andadded nice proALies LisTA s and elegant curves.portionsB yanD suppwareWe agreed that screws would reinforceLisTer, harDedspLieLuMbthe joints nicely, andthat gave us a de-supkiln-dring 2x4s,ensivebe8-ft.-loedre anDinexpsign option on the sides.Chooseoak4Dwajaw caneasy and4x4s, kiln-dribengriedwide. 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At the bottom are twoa Frenchlong curves formed with a flexible woodbatten, one extending end to end on the27 8 in.and the other a shortlower stretcher,graceful arch at the bottomin. the sides,10 of13 16 in.ending at a straight step at each end to8 in.27 legs.suggest10 in.Sideers16 in.13 stretch--Asa Christiana, editor, Fine riaLOakOak4 in.Oak13 4 in.3/4 in. x 3 in. x 26 1/2 1 in.Oak11ersbackLong stretchstretchersscrewsLong FOr30sheLVesscrews FOrback35 16 in.in.3 4Oak veneer5 8 in.1/4 in. x 27 1/2 in. x 45 3/4 in.5 in.plywood33 8 333 4 in.3 4 in.1#12 x 2 in. flat head screws 1Steel24#6 x 3/4 in. flat head screwsSteel93 16 in.93 16 in.Go to Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a multi-part video detailing how to build this bookcase from start to finish.95 8 in.9 in.41 in.41 in.48 in.to finish.startto finish48 in.startnch fromworkbeh frombuild this bencg how to this workdetailint videoto builda two-parling howto watchdetai/startart videoing.comin.odworka two-p31/2 in.17Finewoto watchonline atVisit us/startg.comViDeOsorkinoodwFinewate31/2 in.us onlinVisit13 16 in.17 in.in.13 16ViDeOs9 in.95 8 in.See how our magazinemakes you a betterwoodworker SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
ShakerChest ofDrawersA pro’s jigs and tips simplifyjoinery on chests of any sizeB Y34FINE WOODWORKINGC H R I S T I A NB E C K S V O O R TPhoto, this page: Michael PekovichCOPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
Years ago, clients wanted me tomake a blanket chest to store shirtsand sweaters. Blanket chests aregreat for quilts and blankets, but they tendto allow small items to drift toward thebottom and get lost. For clothes, I mused,drawers would make the contents moreaccessible. And if I used the same outsidedimensions as a blanket box, they couldstill place the chest at the foot of the bedand sit on it, or push it against the wallto use as a dresser. The different drawerdepths would add to the versatility of whatthe chest could hold. They took my adviceand they still love the finished chest.As with much of my work, this design isheavily influenced by the Shaker designethic, with its simple lines, functional design, solid construction, and cherry wood.There are a number of parts, but the construction is straightforward. I use half-blinddovetails to secure the sides to a subtop,and a sliding dovetail to secure the bottomto the sides. A vertical divider gets centered in the top and bottom and dadoedin place. Front and back rails are notchedaround the vertical divider and dovetailedinto place. I use a sturdy frame-and-panelback, glued into a rabbet, so the piecelooks beautiful from all directions. And themain top gets screwed in place from theunderside of the subtop. This is the sameconstruction I use on all my case pieces,so the anatomy could work for a tallerchest, too.Pro methodDUAL-PURPOSE JIG FOR DADOES AND DOVETAILSLike many chests of drawers, the sides of this one need a dovetail/dado combo forthe rails and drawer runners, and a long sliding dovetail for the bottom. One simple jighandles them all.Setup is easy.Registering offthe front edge ofthe side, it’s easyto clamp the jigsquare and cutdadoes and dovetails precisely.Tackle the sides firstMost of the business happens on the sidepieces. But before I hand-chop any halfblind dovetails, the side pieces get a rabbet, leg arches, a sliding dovetail, and adado with a dovetail at the front.First, rabbet the side pieces with two ripcuts on the tablesaw. This rabbet will accept the back.Then, drawFor Becksvoort’s completethe leg archesfinishing recipe for cherry,on the sidego to FineWoodworkingpieces and.com/extras.use a bandsaw to cut them out and a block plane tosmooth the straight edges. I clean up thearches using a balloon sander on my latheand finish up with hand sanding.Now it’s time to pick up the router andtackle the dado/dovetail that holds thefront and back rails and the drawer runners, as well as the sliding dovetail thatDovetail meets dado. Use a ¾-in. dovetail bit to cut the dovetail notch for the front and back rails(above left). Without moving the jig (Becksvoort has two identical routers so he doesn’t have tochange bits), use a ¾-in. straight bit to cut the dado that will hold the drawer runners (above right).Online Extrawww.fi newoodwor k i n g.comTwo cuts for a longsliding dovetail.Before the final passwith a ¾-in. dovetailbit, Becksvoort uses asmaller straight bit towaste away the material, making the dovetail cleaner and easierto cut.JULY/AUGUST 2009COPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.35
holds the bottom. For all three I use a shopmadejig with two parallel bars, spaced the width of therouter base, clamping it square to the carcase side.The same jig works for the dadoes on the sides ofthe vertical divider and the dadoes in the subtopand bottom that hold the vertical divider. Whilethe router and jig are out, cut the dadoes in eachside of the vertical divider. Along with the dadoesin the sides, these will hold the drawer runners.Line them up with the dadoes on the sides, butleave the piece a bit long until you glue up thecarcase and get an exact measurement.BUILT TO LASTHalf-blind dovetails, sliding dovetails, and dadoes ensure decadesof flawless function. A frame-and-panel back makes the chest lookgood from all directions.Dado, ¾ in.wide by 1 8 in.deepDado for vertical divider,¾ in. wide by 1 8 in. deep¾ in.Tenon, ¼ in.thick by ¾ in.wide by 1½ in.longDovetailing a large case pieceCutting dovetails on a large piece is very similarto cutting dovetails on a smaller box or drawer,but there are a few more things to consider. Holding the pieces is more challenging, keeping themflat is important, and of course there is morematerial to remove. The good news, at least withthis piece, is that even if your dovetails don’t lookperfect they’ll be hidden by the subtop. I alwayslay out and cut the tails first, then transfer themand finish up with the pins (see photos, p. 38).Once you have the dovetails cut, it’s time toglue the subtop to the sides. But first rout thedadoes for the vertical divider in the subtop andbottom (using the same jig as before). To find thecenter of both, it isn’t necessary to do a dry-fit.The subtop, the bottom piece, and the rails are allthe same length, so just stack the top and bottomtogether with the ends flush and measure for thecenter. After routing the dadoes, glue the dovetailed subtop to the sides. The bottom doesn’t goin yet, so use spacers at the bottom of the legs tokeep everything straight and square.While that assembly is drying, move to the router table to cut the sliding dovetails in the ends ofthe bottom and front and back rails. Then slidethe bottom into place. I glued only the last 3 in.Rabbet for back,½ in. wide by5 8 in. deep in.38A STRETCHER END DETAILTenon, ¼ in. thickby ¾ in. wide by1½ in. longVertical divider,¾ in. thick by18¾ in. deep by17¾ in. tallDrawerrunnerDado, ¾ in.wide by 1 8 in.deepASpline, ¼ in.thick by 1 in.wideNotch, ¾ in. wideby 11 8 in. deepVerticaldividerB STRETCHER/VERTICAL DIVIDER DETAILFull-size plans for this chest andother projects are available atFineWoodworking.com/PlanStore.Groove, ¼ in.wide by ¼ in.deep48 in.Drawer sidesand back,½ in. thickDrawer bottom,¼ in. thick77 8 in.24 in.87 8 in.4¼ in.3½ in.45½ in.47 in.36FINE WOODWORKINGDrawerfront, ¾ in.thickDrawer pull,1 in. dia. by 1 in.long with ½-in.dia. by 5 8-in.-longtenonsPhotos, except where noted: Anissa Kapsales; drawings: Bob La PointeCOPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
Top, ¾ in. thickby 19¾ in. wideby 48 in. long¼-in.radiusSubtop, ¾ in. thickby 18¾ in. wide by46½ in. long, screwedto top from underneath½-in.radiusTOP EDGE DETAILCenter stiles, in. thick by3 in. wide by 18 in. long5814Top rail, 5 8 in. thickby 1¾ in. wideby 46½ in. longTenons, ¼ in.thick by 1¾ in.longPanel, 5 8 in. thick by 9¼ in.wide by 16 in. long, with¼-in.-thick by ½-in.-longtongueEnd stile, 5 8 in. thick by1¾ in. wide by 23¼ in. longBottom rail, 5 8 in.thick by 3 in. wideby 46½ in. longBPanel groove, ¼ in.wide by ½ in. deepDrawer runner, ¾ in. thick by21 8 in. wide by 171 8 in. long,rear tenons not gluedCRail, ¾ in. thickby 21 8 in. wide by46½ in. longBottom, ¾ in. thickby 18¾ in. wide by46½ in. longGlue blocks¾ in.Side3½ in.Drawer stop, 3 8 in.thick by 5 8 in. wideby 2 in. long, inset¾ in. from front edge15 16 in.Radius,1¾ in.Tenon, ¼ in.long by 1½ in.wideCut profileafter glue-up.APRON DETAIL21 8 in.Side, ¾ in. thickby 19¼ in. wide by23¼ in. longBottom1½ in.2 in.18www.fi newoodwor k i n g.comC BOTTOMDETAIL¾ in.½ in.JULY/AUGUST 2009COPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.37
Pro methodHALF-BLIND DOVETAILSIN LARGE PANELSHalf-blind dovetails make a strong butclean-looking case. They can be a challengeon big pieces, but Becksvoort has tricks forkeeping the pieces flat and aligned.Tails first. On the subtop, Becksvoortmarks the centers of the pins and uses adovetail guide to lay out the tails (above).To saw the long, wide board, he rests it onthe floor and secures it in a vise. A thick,straight hardwood board clamped near theaction keeps the wide board flat (right).to 4 in. at the front of the sliding dovetail. Because the dovetail slot is deep, itweakens the sides of the case, so I addedfive glue blocks underneath each side. Thisstrengthens and anchors the lower sectionsof the case sides to the bottom, yet stillallows for wood movement.Divider helps drawers run smoothlyChop and pare, chop and pare.Keeping the wide workpiece flat,make a vertical cut in the scribedline, tipping the chisel slightly forward (above). Make the first cutlight. Then, paring horizontally infrom the end grain, remove a chip(right). Alternate between cuttingdown and cutting in until about halfway through, then turn the boardover and repeat the process untilyou’ve met in the middle. Followthe same procedure after sawingthe pins.38The four drawers are separated by a vertical divider that is cut to fit after the caseis assembled. With a handsaw, notch thevertical divider to accept the notched frontand back rails, and then slide it in place.These notches line up with the dadoes thatare already in the vertical divider. Don’tglue the vertical divider in place because itis an end-grain to long-grain joint, and gluewon’t hold. Instead, screw it in place, plugging the holes in the bottom. The holes inthe subtop will be covered by the top.The bottom drawers run on the bottomof the case, but the top drawers run on aframe: two rails and four drawer runners.The runners are tenoned into the front andback rails. The tenons get glued into thefront rail but are left loose in the back railto allow for wood movement.Finish panels before gluing in framesA frame-and-panel back, although morework, gives as much diagonal racking resistance as plywood (unlike nailed ship-FINE WOODWORKINGCOPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
TIPNAIL DOWNTHE TAIL BOARDTO MARK PINSMark the locationof the tails on thepin board. On long,wide workpieces,Becksvoort uses asmall nail to help inthe transfer. Alignthe boards andpredrill. Tap in thenail partway so it canbe easily removed(above right). Usinga marking knife andworking from thenailed corner, scribethe tails onto thepin board (belowright). Pivot the tailboard into alignmentwhenever necessary.lapped, tongue-and-groove boards) andlooks much better. Once the case and allthe dividers are in place, make the frameand-panel back, leaving it a little too wideso you can sneak up on the perfect fitwith a block plane. I profile the four panels with a 221 2º panel-raising bit. I pinthe rails and stiles for extra support and anice design detail. Then I sand the insideface and fit the back to the case. I glue theback in place, secure it with small brads,countersink them, and plug the holes.Cut the pins andthen glue thetop and sides.Spacers betweenthe legs keep theassembly squarewhile Becksvoortattaches the subtop to the sides. Tokeep from marringthe carcase withheavy bar clamps,he uses spacers onthe top and caulson the sides (left).Complete the base and profile the topTo finish the front of the case, miter andspline the three-piece base assembly,bandsaw the arches to the same radius asthe sides, and glue it into place. A onepiece base would introduce cross-graingluing and could self-destruct. This way,the base expands and contracts (up anddown), while the case side it is glued todoes not change in length.Next, sand the entire case, and then cutthe top of the case to size, allowing a 1 2-in.overhang on the front and on each side. Routwww.fi newoodwor k i n g.comJULY/AUGUST 2009COPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.39
Pro methodHOW TO TAME LONGSLIDING DOVETAILSLong sliding dovetails can bind and freezeduring assembly, but not if you followBecksvoort’s steps closely.½ in.Big workpieceis an addedchallenge. Afeatherboardapplies evenpressure, keepingthe long board ontrack and the cutprecise. Go for asnug fit.the profile into the front and sides, sandthe top, and screw it into place from underneath through the subtop.Drawers are the final stepBefore starting the dovetails on the drawers, groove the sides and front. Now lay outthe tails, saw and chop them, and move onto the pins. I cut the pins and tails slightlyproud and flush everything up with a beltsander after the drawers are glued. Knobholes also can be drilled at this point. I usea pencil to mark the tight spots and a beltsander to remove material as I carefully fitthe drawers to their openings.Insert the drawer bottoms, and hold themin place with two saw slots and roundhead screws in the underside of the drawerbacks. The knobs are turned on the lathe,tenons cut to length, and then glued intoplace. My technique can be found in “Authentic Shaker Knobs,” FWW #196.Before applying a finish, I go over theentire piece to break and sand all edges including around the drawer openings, andthe gaps between the frames and panelson the back. Then I sign the piece andgive it three coats of an oil finish. The firstcoat is straight Danish oil, and the final twocoats are a mixture of Tried & True varnishoil and spar varnish. Christian Becksvoort is a contributing editor.Please don’t freeze. To prevent binding, don’tuse glue yet, and keep the bottom as straight aspossible as you slide it in most of the way. Glueonly the front 3 to 4 in. of the bottom; otherwise,the joint will seize while you are trying to bringthe piece home. Use clamps to pull the bottomevenly and steadily. Clamping blocks that extendover the side keep the workpieces from gettingdamaged, but, more importantly, stop the bottom when it is exactly flush with the sides.40FINE WOODWORKINGCOPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
RAILS ANDDIVIDERS GUIDETHE DRAWERSThis simple system keepsdrawers from racking backand forth, tipping up, ordropping down.1. Fit the vertical divider, andtap it into position without glue.Screw it in from the top andbottom.2. Fit the front rail and glue it123456into the sides and onto the vertical divider panel.3. Install the four drawer runners. Apply glue only to thefront tenons.4. The back rail is glued intothe dovetail slots and ontothe vertical divider. The backmortise-and-tenon joints arenot glued. This allows the webframe to telescope in and outas the case expands and contracts.5. Fit the back. The end stilesextend beyond the bottom railand become an integral part ofthe back legs. Use a block planeto sneak up on the fit beforeclamping and gluing.6. Apply the mitered front baseassembly. Add glue blocks afterward to strengthen the cornerjoints.www.fi newoodwor k i n g.comJULY/AUGUST 2009COPYRIGHT 2009 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.41
From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2 B y A s A C h r i s t i n Y ou can thank Mike Pekovich, Fine Woodworking’s art direc-tor, for designing this simple but stylish bookcase. He took a straightfor-ward form--an oak bookcase with dado and rabbet joints--and added nice pro-portions
172 STONE GREY FINISH-004 LINEN CHEST - 8 DRAWERS 14 174 AMBER FINISH —115 CHEST - 5 DRAWERS 170 MINK FINISH —227 NIGHT STAND - 3 DRAWERS 170-172-174 Cool Rustic Combined.qxp_Layout 1 11/12/19 11:58 AM Page 14 BUILT TO LAST Artisan & Post furniture is handcrafted in the USA by cr
The analytic sieve shaker OASS203 is designed to obtain reproducible . Range of particle sizes which can be analyzed: from 20 µ to 125 mm . . Other laboratory products: Sieve shaker 93. Other laboratory products: Accessories Sieve shaker 94 Standard ASTM E11: Mesh sieves (AISI 316) Code Mesh PI 177 No. 7 PI 178 No. 8 PI 179 No. 10 PI .
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CT Chest Asbestosis (High Resolution) Fibrosis CT Chest Without CT Chest Without Contrast --- HIGH RESOLUTION 71250 Contrast Lung Cancer Screening (Low Dose Protocol) CT Chest Without Contrast 71250 CTA Chest (PE Study) Chest Pain/Dyspnea DVT Tachypnea Hemoptysis Shortness of Bre
Evaluate a chest radiograph for various devices such as endotracheal tubes, chest tubes and central venous catheters. Describe several pathologies of the chest. The chest exam is performed more frequently than any other exam in the imaging department. It is important for radiographers to under-stand the standards for imaging the chest because
groom table or chest top 10 Brass Candlesticks 2 Two brass candlesticks 10 set Antique Chest and Drawers 1 Beautiful Antique Dresser/Chest with Drawers. Use for placing photos, condiments, accessories, and adding to the ambience of a country wedding. 30.00 Burlap Table Cover 1 Burlap Tablecloth for a 8 ft. table. Use for accent table.
Features by Cabinet Series cabinet construction Solid Hardwood Face Frames Captured Back Construction 1 2" Thick Engineered Wood Cabinet Sides base cabinet drawers 21" Deep, 5 8" Thick Premium Dovetail Hardwood Drawers optional 21" Deep Drawers, 1 2" Thick Engineered Wood 18" Deep Drawers, 1 2" Thick Engineered Wood drawer glides
Drawer Cabinets - Narrow (All Narrow cabinets are 23-1/2" wide) M4D27X24 Narrow 4 Drawer Cabinet with 6" drawers MC2D20 2 Drawer Cabinet with 9" drawers Can-Am / 70 Shields Ct, Markham ON L3R9T5 / Tel: 800-387-9790 or 905-475-6622 Fax: 905-475-1154 / mail@can-am.ca / www.can-am.ca MC3D27 3 Drawer Cabinet with 8" drawers
