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Chapter1Historyand CareerOpportunitiesChapter OutlineWhy Study Cosmetology Historyand Career Opportunities?Brief History of Cosmetology Vladimir Wrangel, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.Career Paths for CosmetologistsCopyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
Learning ObjectivesAfter completing this chapter, you will be able to:LO1 Explain the origins of appearance enhancement.LO2 Name the advancements made in cosmetology during the nineteenth,twentieth, and early twenty-first centuries.LO3 List several career opportunities available to a licensed beauty practitioner.Key TermsPage number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.Cosmetologypg. 4Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.1
The simple but effective cosmetic implements used at the dawn ofhistory were shaped from sharpened flints, oyster shells, or bone.Animal sinew or strips of hide were used to tie the hair back oras adornment. Ancient people around the world used coloringmatter on their hair, skin, and nails, and they practicedtattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects,nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colorants are stillused today.Why Study Cosmetology Historyand Career Opportunities?Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understandingof the history of cosmetology and the career opportunitiesavailable because: Many very old methods have evolved into techniques still usedtoday. Studying the origin of these techniques can be useful in fullyunderstanding how to use them today. Knowing the history of your profession can help you predict andunderstand upcoming trends. By learning about many possible career paths, you’ll see the widerange of opportunities open to cosmotologists.Brief History of CosmetologyThe EgyptiansThe Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagantfashion. They used cosmetics as part of their personal beautificationhabits, religious ceremonies, and preparation of the deceased for burial.As early as 3000 BC, Egyptians used minerals, insects, and berries to createmakeup for their eyes, lips, and skin. Henna was used to stain their hair andnails a rich, warm red. They were also the first civilization to infuse essentialoils from the leaves, bark, and blossoms of plants for use as perfumes andfor purification purposes. Queen Nefertiti (circa 1400 BC) stained her nailsred by dipping her fingertips in henna, wore lavish makeup designs, andused custom-blended essential oils as signature scents. Queen Cleopatra(circa 50 BC) took this dedication to beauty to an entirely new level byerecting a personal cosmetics factory next to the Dead Sea.14Chapter 1 History and Career OpportunitiesPart I: OrientationCopyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. Robyn Mackenzie, 2010; used under license from Shutterstock.com.Cosmetology (kahz-muh-TAHL-uh-jee) is a term used to encompass abroad range of specialty areas, including hairstyling, nail technology, andesthetics. Cosmetology is defined as the art and science of beautifyingand improving the skin, nails, and hair and includes the study ofcosmetics and their application. The term comes from the Greek wordkosmetikos, meaning skilled in the use of cosmetics. Archaeologicalstudies reveal that haircutting and hairstyling were practicedin some form as early as the Ice Age.
Ancient Egyptians are also credited with creating kohlmakeup—originally made from a mixture of groundgalena (a black mineral), sulfur, and animal fat—toheavily line the eyes, alleviate eye inflammation, andprotect the eyes from the glare of the sun.In both ancient Egypt and Rome, military commandersstained their nails and lips in matching colors beforeimportant battles (Figure 1–1).The Chinese CorbisHistory also shows that during the Shang Dynasty (circa1600 BC), Chinese aristocrats rubbed a tinted mixtureof gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites ontotheir nails to color them crimson or ebony. Throughoutthe Chou Dynasty (circa 1100 BC), gold and silver werethe royal colors. During this early period in Chinese history, nailtinting was so closely tied to social status that commoners caughtwearing a royal nail color faced a punishment of death. Figure 1–1The Egyptians wore elaboratehairstyles and cosmetics.During the golden age of Greece (circa 500 BC), hairstyling became ahighly developed art. The ancient Greeks made lavish use of perfumesand cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinalpurposes. They built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods ofdressing the hair and caring for the skin and nails. Greek women appliedpreparations of white lead onto their faces, kohl around their eyes,and vermillion upon their cheeks and lips. Vermillion is a brilliant redpigment, made by grinding cinnabar (a mineral that is the chief sourceof mercury) to a fine powder. It was mixed with ointment or dusted onthe skin in the same way cosmetics are applied today (Figure 1–2).The Romans Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.The Greeks Figure 1–2The Greeks advanced grooming andskin care.Roman women lavishly used fragrances and cosmetics. Facials madeof milk and bread or fine wine were popular. Other facials were madeof corn with flour and milk, or from flour and fresh butter. A mixtureof chalk and white lead was used as a facial cosmetic. Women used haircolor to indicate their class in society. Noblewomen tinted their hair red,middle-class women colored their hair blond, and poor women dyedtheir hair black (Figure 1–3).The Middle Ages is the period of European history between classicalantiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome,circa AD 476, and lasting until about 1450. Beauty culture is evidencedby tapestries, sculptures, and other artifacts from this period. All of theseshow towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of cosmeticson skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks andlips, but not on their eyes. Around AD 1000, a Persian physician andPart I: Orientation Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.The Middle Ages Figure 1–3The Romans applied variouspreparations to the skin.Chapter 1 History and Career Opportunities5Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.1
alchemist named Avicenna refined the process of steam distillation.This ushered in the modern era of steam-distilled essential oils thatwe use today.The RenaissanceThis is the period in history during which Western civilization madethe transition from medieval to modern history. Paintings and writtenrecords tell us a great deal about the grooming practices of the time.One of the most unusual practices was the shaving of the eyebrows andthe hairline to show a greater expanse of forehead. A brow-less foreheadwas thought to give women a look of greater intelligence. Duringthis period, both men and women took great pride in their physicalappearance and wore elaborate, elegant clothing. Fragrances andcosmetics were used, although highly colored preparations of thelips, cheeks, and eyes were discouraged (Figure 1–4). Figure 1–4During the Renaissance, shaving or tweezingof the eyebrows and hairline to show agreater expanse of the forehead was thoughtto make women appear more intelligent.The Victorian AgeThe reign of Queen Victoria of England, between 1837 and 1901, wasknown as the Victorian Age. Fashions in dress and personal groomingwere drastically influenced by the social mores of this austere andrestrictive period in history. To preserve the health and beauty ofthe skin, women used beauty masks and packs made from honey,eggs, milk, oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients.Victorian women are said to have pinched their cheeks and bitten theirlips to induce natural color rather than use cosmetics, such as rouge orlip color (Figure 1–5).LO1The Twentieth CenturyIn the early twentieth century, the invention of motion picturescoincided with an abrupt shift in American attitudes. As viewers sawpictures of celebrities with flawless complexions, beautiful hairstyles,and manicured nails, standards of feminine beauty began to change.This era also signaled the spread of industrialization, which broughta new prosperity to the United States. Beauty applications began tofollow the trends set by celebrities and society figures (Figure 1–6).Figure 1–5During the Victorian period, makeup andshowy clothing were discouraged exceptin the theater.On October 8, 1906, Charles Nessler invented a heavily wired machinethat supplied electrical current to metal rods around which hair strandswere wrapped. These heavy units were heated during the wavingprocess. They were kept away from the scalp by a complex systemof counterbalancing weights that were suspended from an overheadchandelier mounted on a stand. Two methods were used to wind hair16Chapter 1 History and Career OpportunitiesPart I: OrientationCopyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. 1901-1910In 1904, Max Faktor emigrated from Lodz, Poland, to the UnitedStates. By 1908, he had Americanized his name to Max Factor andmoved to Los Angeles, where he began making and selling makeup. Hismakeup was popular with movie stars because it wouldn’t cake or crack,even under hot studio lights.
strands around the metal units. Long hair was wound from thescalp to the ends in a technique called spiral wrapping. AfterWorld War I, when women cut their hair into the short bobbedstyle, the croquignole (KROH-ken-yohl) wrapping techniquewas introduced. In this method, shorter hair was wound fromthe ends toward the scalp. The hair was then styled into deepwaves with loose end-curls. Figure 1–6Dramatic changes in beauty andfashion occured through the decadesof the twentieth century.One of the most notable success stories of the cosmetologyindustry is that of Sarah Breedlove. She was the daughter offormer slaves and was orphaned at age seven when she wentto work in the cotton fields of the Mississippi delta. In 1906,Sarah married her third husband, C. J. Walker, and becameknown as Madame C. J. Walker. Sarah suffered from a scalp conditionand began to lose her hair, which caused her to experiment with storebought products and homemade remedies. She began to sell her scalpconditioning and healing treatment called “Madam Walker’s WonderfulHair Grower.” She devised sophisticated sales and marketing strategiesand traveled extensively to give product demonstrations. In 1910, shemoved her company to Indianapolis where she built a factory, hairsalon, and training school. As she developed new products, her empiregrew. She devoted much time and money to a variety of causes inIndianapolis, including the National Association for the Advancementof Colored People (NAACP) and the Young Men’s Christian Association(YMCA). In 1917, she organized a convention for her Madam C. J.Walker Hair Culturists Union of America. This was one of the firstnational meetings for businesswomen ever held. By the time of herdeath, she had established herself as a pioneer in the modern AfricanAmerican hair care and cosmetics industry.In 1872, Marcel Grateau (AKA Francois Marcel) invented the firstcurling iron—tongs heated by a gas burner. Later, around 1923, hecreated an electric version. Because he introduced several electricversions, the actual date of the invention remains in dispute. Grateauwent on to develop a permanent wave machine, barbers clippers, asafety razor, and other devices. Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.1920sThe cosmetics industry grew rapidly during the 1920s. Advertisingexpenditures in radio alone went from 390,000 in 1927 to 3.2 millionin 1930. At first, many women’s magazines deemed cosmetics improperand refused to print cosmetic advertisements, but by the end of the 1920s,cosmetics provided one of their largest sources of advertising revenue.1930sIn 1931, the preheat-perm method was introduced. First, hair waswrapped using the croquignole method. Then, clamps that had beenpreheated by a separate electrical unit were placed over the woundcurls. An alternative to the machine perm was introduced in 1932Part I: OrientationChapter 1 History and Career Opportunities7Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.1
Up until the nineteenth century,many barbers also performedminor surgeries and practiceddentistry. In fact, the barberpole, a symbol of the barber–surgeon, has its roots in a medicalprocedure called bloodletting thatwas once thought to strengthenthe immune system. The pole isbelieved to represent the staffthat patients held tightly to makethe veins in their arms standout during the procedure. Thebottom cap represents the basinused to catch the blood. Thered and white stripes representthe bandages that stopped thebleeding and were then hung onthe pole to dry. As the wind blew,these bandages would becometwisted around the pole, forminga red-and-white pattern.The modern barber pole, then,was originally the symbol of thebarber–surgeon, and is believedto represent the bandages(white), blood (red), and veins(blue) involved in bloodletting(Figure 1–7).Up until the end of thenineteenth century, evenin the United States, bothmen and women worewigs. Today wigs aremaking a resurgence asa fashion item, riding thepopularity wave of hairextensions.Figure 1–7A traditional barber pole.18when chemists Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough pioneereda method that used heat generated by chemical reaction: small flexiblepads containing a chemical mixture were wound around hair strands.When the pads were moistened with water, a chemical heat was releasedthat created long-lasting curls. Thus the first machineless permanentwave was born. Salon clients were no longer subjected to the dangersand discomforts of the Nessler machine.In 1932, nearly 4,000 years after the first recorded nail-color craze,Charles Revson of Revlon fame marketed the first nail polish—asopposed to a nail stain—using formulas that were borrowed from theautomobile paint industry. This milestone marked a dramatic shift innail cosmetics as women finally had an array of nail lacquers availableto them. The early screen sirens Jean Harlow and Gloria Swansonglamorized this hip new nail fashion in silent pictures and early talkiesby appearing in films wearing matching polish on their fingers and toes.Also in 1932, Lawrence Gelb, a New York Chemist, introduced the firstpermanent haircolor product and founded a company called Clairol. In1935, Max Factor created pancake makeup to make actors’ skin looknatural on color film. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wavethat used no machines or heat. The cold wave is considered to be theprecursor to the modern perm.1940sIn 1941, scientists developed another method of permanent wavingthat used waving lotion. Because this perm did not use heat, it wasalso called a cold wave. Cold waves replaced virtually all predecessorsand competitors. In fact, the terms cold waving and permanent wavingbecame practically synonymous. Modern versions of cold waves,usually referred to as alkaline perms, are very popular today. Theterm texture services is used today to refer to the variety of permanentwaving and straightening services available for various hair typesand conditions.1951–2000The second half of the twentieth century saw the introduction oftube mascara, improved hair care and nail products, and the boomand then death of the weekly salon appointment. In the late 1960s,Vidal Sassoon turned the hairstyling world on its ear with hisrevolutionary geometric cuts. The 1970s saw a new era in highlightingwhen French hairdressers introduced the art of hair weaving usingaluminum foil. In the 1980s, makeup went full circle, from barelythere to heavily made-up “cat-eyes” and the heavy use of eye shadowsand blush. In the 1990s, haircolor became gentler, allowing allethnicities to enjoy being blonds, brunettes, or redheads. In 1998,Creative Nail Design introduced the first spa pedicure system to theprofessional beauty industry.Chapter 1 History and Career OpportunitiesPart I: OrientationCopyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. Corbis.did you know?
The Twenty-First CenturyToday, hairstylists have far gentler, no-fade haircolor. Estheticians cannoticeably rejuvenate the skin, as well as keep disorders such as sunspotsand mild acne at bay. The beauty industry has also entered the age ofspecialization. Now cosmetologists frequently specialize either in haircoloror in haircutting; estheticians specialize in esthetic or medical-aestheticservices; and nail technicians either offer a full array of services or specializein artificial nail enhancements, natural nail care, or even pedicures.Since the late 1980s, the salon industry has evolved to include day spas,a name that was first coined by beauty legend Noel DeCaprio. Day spasnow represent an excellent employment opportunity for beautypractitioners (Figure 1–8).Men-only specialty spas and barber spas have also grown in popularity.These spas provide exciting new opportunities for men’s hair, nail, andskin-care specialists. Figure 1–9 on page 10 is a timeline of sign
Ancient people around the world used coloring matter on their hair, skin, and nails, and they practiced tattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colorants are still used today. Why Study Cosmetology History and Career Opportunities? Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding of the .
Part One: Heir of Ash Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Chapter 25 Chapter 26 Chapter 27 Chapter 28 Chapter 29 Chapter 30 .
TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD. Contents Dedication Epigraph Part One Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Part Two Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18. Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Chapter 25 Chapter 26
DEDICATION PART ONE Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 PART TWO Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 .
About the husband’s secret. Dedication Epigraph Pandora Monday Chapter One Chapter Two Chapter Three Chapter Four Chapter Five Tuesday Chapter Six Chapter Seven. Chapter Eight Chapter Nine Chapter Ten Chapter Eleven Chapter Twelve Chapter Thirteen Chapter Fourteen Chapter Fifteen Chapter Sixteen Chapter Seventeen Chapter Eighteen
18.4 35 18.5 35 I Solutions to Applying the Concepts Questions II Answers to End-of-chapter Conceptual Questions Chapter 1 37 Chapter 2 38 Chapter 3 39 Chapter 4 40 Chapter 5 43 Chapter 6 45 Chapter 7 46 Chapter 8 47 Chapter 9 50 Chapter 10 52 Chapter 11 55 Chapter 12 56 Chapter 13 57 Chapter 14 61 Chapter 15 62 Chapter 16 63 Chapter 17 65 .
HUNTER. Special thanks to Kate Cary. Contents Cover Title Page Prologue Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter
Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 . Within was a room as familiar to her as her home back in Oparium. A large desk was situated i
API 617, 8TH EDITION. About Kazancompressormash Kazancompressormash (Kazan Compressor- Building Plant, Russia) is a leading Russian manufacturer of compressor equipment and provider of integrated compressor-based solutions for various industries. Key Facts and Figures More than 60 years of successful work in the compressor equipment market A wide range of sophisticated compressor systems for .
