Volume 7 Fall Winter 2016-17 Number 2 John Tarpley, Editor
PageVolume 7Fall—Winter 2016-17Fall—Winter 2016-17Number 2John Tarpley, EditorA Letter From DavidIt was good to see so many of you at the OTI Symposium last fall. It gave me great pleasure to see so manypieces on display that had been made on the LRE. There were great pieces displayed from all sorts of differentmachines, and I feel the quality and number of pieces displayed exceeded anything I've seen at previoussymposia. Anyone who attended went home inspired. The presentations added to that inspiration, and I can'twait to see the projects that come about from that inspiration.This year will afford several opportunities to get together for instruction. I will be at the AAW Symposiumagain this year presenting four rotations. The Chicago Woodturners Association has committed to having ahands on meeting with proposed dates of July 21-23 where we will cover the curvilinear slide and making thefish pattern. We are trying to put together a hands on meeting in Louisiana this fall where we now have anadequate meeting place with plenty of space. More information will come soon. That meeting will probably bein October. If you're interested please let me know.I am excited to once again to have had the opportunity to teach guilloché at Memoria Technica in March. Wehave done these classes before and are honing our approach and have also reduced the class size. The shopthere is exceptionally well suited for the task and is equipped not only with a rose engine and straight linemachine, but also with all the support machinery which makes for a very broad and illuminating experience.Brittany Cox will be offering introductory courses, and if there is interest she is likely to have me return foranother round in the future.I am glad to see the instructions for the "fish" box published in a newsletter. Brian Clarry wrote theseinstructions and they have been tested by several individuals. The testing has allowed the instructions to behoned and improved. The project teaches a variety of techniques which will have broad applications. Perhapsone of the most useful things is that he re-wrote Walshaw's instruction for the "fish" specifically for the LRE.The “fish” has been thought of by many as a "rite of passage" for the ornamental turner to go from a beginnerto an accomplished turner. While it's actually not technically difficult, the recipe requires a lot of repetition andsome cuts that are much deeper than we're typically used to making. I wouldn't recommend doing the “fish”while texting or listening to a book on tape because it takes concentration. I don't believe it's above the skills ofanyone who desires to create the pattern. It may, however, test your perseverance and require more than onetry. If successful, or should I say when successful, I believe your confidence will be greatly boosted. It alsolooks exceptionally nice on the top of a box. The use of the dome chuck in the project will introduce it to someand remind others of just what a tool it can be.John has once again put together a newsletter that not only informs us of what's going on but stretches ourminds. I can't thank him enough. He has certainly driven me to my machine more than I would have otherwisebeen at it.
Page 2Fall—Winter 2016-17Ed. Note: The Fish pattern is a classic design that has long been used as a standard of development amongornamental turners. In his book, Ornamental Turning TD Walshaw says, “ its [the Fish] successfulexecution is generally taken to mark the transition from beginner to improver in O. T. circles!” Walshaw givesinstructions for producing this pattern using an ornamental lathe and David Lindow gave information onproducing this pattern on a rose engine which we published in vol. 2: no. 1, p 17. Brian has used this patternfor the insert in the box which he has created and he has written two complimentary, but independent articlesto describe the project. This article describes the box and the following article concentrates on creating TheFish pattern on our Lindow Rose Engines. Brian also introduces a different background for The Fish. The boxlends itself to many possibilities. If you do not wish to use the fish insert you could use an insert of abeautifully figured wood, a cabochon, engine turning, any type of ornamental pattern, or the top could be leftunornamented. We hope that you will take this box and make it uniquely your own to reflect your tastes anddesign perspective. Similarly the accompanying article on the fish insert can also be used in many ways toproduce this pattern or a variant on many types of pieces of ornamental turning.—JTFish Scale Box With A Screw LidBrian ClarryThe following document describes the steps in making a small box that has a fish scale pattern on the outsideand has a fluted lid which screws into the base. ‘The Fish’ ornament is inserted in the top of the lid. The roseengine used in this project is a Lindow Rose Engine using its Double Eccentric Dome Chuck with theSegment Stop, the Drilling Frame fitted with the eccentric cutter head or an end mill, and the ThreadingAttachment.Because the fish scale design requires three separate settings that need to be coordinated together, i.e. the typeof sine rosette, the radius of the cutter, and the position of the sliderest; it is suggested that test cuts be madeto determine that the correct fish scale required is achieved.This document also refers to the Lindow Rose Engine Alignment Procedures (LREAP) and Lindow RoseEngine Project Procedures (LREPP) documents both documents are available on the web at https://lindowmachineworks.com/.The steps in making the box are:a. Prepare the wood blank for the box, and part the blank into the base and the lid.b. Base—remove the inside and cut a female thread.c. Lid—cut a tenon, and cut a male thread to match the female thread cut in b. above. Ornament theinside of the lid.d. Make a threaded waste holding block with the same size female thread.e. Screw the lid and base together and ornament the side and bottom of the base.f. Screw the waste holding block onto the lid. Cut a recess for inserting ‘The Fish’ ornament. Cut 18flutes on the outside of the lid.1. Preparing the blank.a. Preparing the wood.Cut a piece of wood approximately 3 1/8" square and 3 1/4" long. Round the wood to its largestdiameter, which will be about 3". Cut a 1 ¾" diameter by 1 /4" wide tenon at each end that will fit intoa holding chuck.
Page 3Fall—Winter 2016-17LidBaseThe lid portion of the blankwill be 1" long using 3/8"for the threaded tenon, and5/8" for lid.The base will be 1 1/2"long.1/8" of the wood is used for parting thebase and lid. Both pieces of the blank have1/4" tenons on their outer ends.b. Ensure the outside of the blank is smooth. At this point your blank should look like the followingphoto.c. Use either the lathe, or a bandsaw to separate the lid from the base. Note: It is very dangerous to cutround objects on a bandsaw since they can be grabbed and rotated into the blade. This can cause injuryto the user, damage to the piece, and/or damage to the bandsaw if the work is not properly secured. Useeither a v-block or clamps to hold the piece and keep your fingers well away from the blade. If you areuncertain how to make this cut safely, then either part the blank on the lathe or use a handsaw.2. Aligning the sliderestMove the sliderest inline with the holding chuck and use a square to ensure the sliderest is 90 to the RE base.Lock the headstock at top dead center so the spindle does not rock. Refer to LREAP document Section—1 1.1.Hint: Every time the sliderest is moved it is important to use a square to ensure it’s aligned correctly.3. Hollowing and threading the baseStep 1—Hollowing the inside of the basea. Install the base in a holding chuck.b. Use a dial indicator against the base and check the blank both axiallyand radially. Refer to LREAP document Section 1—1.5.c. Install the Drilling Frame on the sliderest. Install a ¼" 4 flute singleended end mill in an end mill holder, and screw the end mill holderinto the Drilling Frame.d. Place the bottom of the end mill on the top surface of the rim andsmooth the surface. Cut the length of the base to 1 1/2".e. Using the end mill bore a hole in the wood blank approximately 1 1/4" deep with a 1/4" sidewall forthe box base.f. Slow the RE down for the final, finishing cuts so the sidewall has a better finish.g. Leave the bottom of the hole flat for an insert, if required.Step 2 Installing the threading componentsa. Select the 8 tpi threading bobbin and indexer. Ensure the threading bobbin is correctly attached to theindexer, and is set at the 1 2 3 4 marked on the edge of the indexer.b. Install components of the threading attachment to the rear end of the spindle. First, install themounting block with the lever to the right. Second, install the 8 tpi brass chaser into the holderleaving the chaser a loose fit, and slide the indexer/threading bobbin on the spindle. Finally, use the
Fall—Winter 2016-17Page 4lever to gently lift the brass chaser up so that its threads just engage with the threads of the threadingbobbin.c. Tighten the indexer against the spindle. Install a 1/8" or 3/16" cutter with a 60 cutting angle in a flycutter holder and insert in the Drilling Frame.d. I use a two lead thread for this box so each lead must be cut separately.Step 3 Threading the base, First Leada. To determine depth of the thread for an internal thread refer to LREPP document Section—1 1.2.b. For 16 tpi the depth of the cut for an internal thread is 0.038" (70% of Sharp V for internal thread).Use this depth even though 8 tpi is being used because this is a two lead thread.c. Move the cutter in from the rim about 1/8". Move the cutter slowly towards the far side, or to theright of the hole so that the point of the cutter is nearly touching the side. Move the drilling framespindle by hand slightly up and down and adjust the sliderest so the point of the cutter is barelyscraping the side of the base. Set the dial on the sliderest to 0.d. The base is threaded from the inside of the base to the rim. This is known as a climb cut, where thecutter is going in the same direction as the base.e. Turn the sliderest handle to move the cutter just outside the rim. It is important not to move thisadjustment again. Rotate the spindle by hand to move the cutter into the base where the threading willstart i.e. about 3 to 4 threads, which is approximately 1/2".f. As a trial run turn the spindle so that the cutter moves towards the rim. Ensure the cutter stops justoutside of the base. Move the spindle back to where it started.g. Move the cutter towards the side by 0.038", turn on the drilling frame and start cutting the thread.When the cutter is outside of the base move the cutter away from the side, and turn off the drillingframe.h. This completes the first lead.Step 4 Threading the base, Second Leada. Return the cutter back to where the first lead started.b. Rotate the spindle until the marking 1 2 3 4 appears on the indexer.c. Remove the shoulder bolt holding the threading bobbin to the outer metal ring. Do not loosen theouter metal ring.d. Turn the threading bobbin clockwise until the shoulder bolt hole appears next to the 2 4 marking.Screw the shoulder bolt back into the threading bobbin.e. Cut the second thread at the same depth of 0.038". The second thread will be cut in between the firstthread.f. This completes the second lead of the base.Step 5 Finishing the basea. Replace the Threading Attachment with the spindle collar. Use afly cutter holder with a 1/8" flat cutter to cut a groove about 0.050"deep at the lower part of the thread.b. Use a fly cutter holder with the 3/16" 90 cutter to cut a 45 chamfer on the inside of the rim.4. Preparing, and threading the lidStep 1 Threading and ornamenting the lid
Page 5Fall—Winter 2016-17a. Install the top in the holding chuck.b. Use a dial indicator against the lid and check the blank both axially and radially. Refer to LREAPdocument Section—1 1.5.c. Install the Drilling Frame with the ¼" 4 flute single ended end mill.d. Place the bottom of the end mill on the top surface of the rim and smooth the surface. Cut the lid to alength of 1".e. To calculate the final diameter for the tenon that will be used for the external thread refer to LREPPdocument Section—1 1.2. Again, 16 tpi is used.f. Using a digital caliper measure the diameter inside the base of the box from thread to thread.g. The calculation of the diameter for the external thread is:Internal diameter of the female thread (2 x 70% of Sharp V for Internal Thread) which isInternal diameter of the female thread (2 x 0.038")In this project:Internal diameter 2.430" and the Threads Per Inch 1670% of Sharp V for Internal Thread 0.038"Diameter for External Thread 2.430" (2 x 0.038") 2.430" 0.076" 2.506".h. Using the end mill cut a shoulder diameter of 2.506" and 3/8" deep.i. Use a fly cutter holder with a 1/8" flat cutter to cut a groove about 0.070" deep by the shoulder.j. Use a fly cutter holder with a 3/16" 90 cutter to cut a 45 chamfer on the inside of the rim.Step 2 Threading the tenon, first leada. To determine depth of the thread for an external thread refer to LREPP document Section—1 1.1.b. For 16 tpi the depth of the cut for an external thread (Depth Of Sharp V Thread) is 0.055". Use thisdepth even though 8 tpi is being used.c. Move the cutter in from the rim about 1/8". Move the cutter slowly towards the tenon so that thepoint of the cutter is nearly touching the side. Move the drilling frame spindle by hand slightly upand down and adjust the sliderest so the point of the cutter is barely scraping the side. Set the dial onthe sliderest to 0.d. Move the cutter out so that it is just not touching the tenon. It is important not to move thisadjustment again.e. As a trial run move the spindle by hand so that the cutter moves along the tenon until it reaches thegroove. Move the spindle back to where it started.f. Move the cutter in towards the tenon by 0.055". Turn on the drilling frame and start cutting thethread. When the cutter moves into the groove set the depth back to 0 and stop the cutter. Return thecutter to the beginning of the first lead.g. This completes the first lead.Step 3 Threading the tenon, second leada. Rotate the spindle until the marking 2 4 appears on the indexer.b. Remove the shoulder bolt holding the threaded bobbin to the outer metal ring. Do not loosen theouter metal ring.c. Turn the threaded bobbin clockwise until the shoulder bolt hole appears next to the 1 2 3 4 marking.Screw the shoulder bolt back into the threaded bobbin.d. Rotate the spindle until the cutter is again not touching the end of the tenon. Cut the second thread at
Fall—Winter 2016-17Page 6the same depth of 0.055".e. Cut a thread along the tenon until the cutter reaches the groove. The secondthread will be cut in between the first thread.f. Return the spindle to the beginning of the movement.g. This completes the second lead.Step 4 Fitting the lida. Screw the base on the lid without moving the sliderest dial that determinesthe start of the thread. If the threads are too tight or the base does not screwon all the way it may be possible to lightly sand both threads. If the threadsare still too tight, cut the male threads again to a slightly greater depth.b. If the lid and base do not close fully, check that the length of the tenon is shorter than the depth to thegroove in the base.Step 5 Ornamenting the lidHint: To make the lid lighter, interior wood can be removed and then the lid can be ornamented on theremaining surface, or an ornamented insert can be fitted. In this case anexpansion chuck can be used to hold the lid and not a threaded waste block.a. Return the spindle to the beginning of the movement, and replace theThreading Attachment with the spindle collar.b. Install the Universal Cutting Frame with the triangular carbide cutters andalign the cutting head to the center of the mandrel. Refer to LREAPdocument Section—2 2.2.c. Lock the headstock at top dead center, and check the base both axiallyand radially. Refer to LREAP document Section—1 1.1 and Section—11.5 respectively.d. Select a rosette and rubber, and ornament the base of the tenon.5.Preparing threaded waste blocksNote: A threaded waste block will be used to hold the lid whilst ornamenting. This waste block can bemade of either wood or plastic. To determine depth of the thread for an internal thread refer to LREPPdocument Section—1 1.2.Step 1 Preparing wood for the waste blocksa. Cut a piece of wood approximately 3 1/8" square and 1 1/2" long. Round the wood to its largestdiameter. Cut a 1 ¾" diameter 3/16" wide tenon at one end of each waste block. First, cut a ¾" x 16thread through the middle of the waste block to thread on the Phasing Chuck.Step 2 Threading the waste blocka. On the waste block for the lid cut a female thread as follows:i. To calculate the final diameter for the bore that will be used for the internal thread refer toLREPP document Section—1 1.2. Again, 16 tpi is used.ii. Using a digital caliper, measure the outside diameter of the lid tenon from thread to thread.iii. The calculation of the diameter for the internal thread is:External diameter of the male thread—(2 x 70% of Sharp V for Internal Thread)External diameter of the male thread—(2 x 0.038")In this project:External diameter 2.506" Threads Per Inch 16 70% for Internal Thread 0.038"Diameter for External Thread 2.506" - (2 x 0.038") 2.506" - 0.076" 2.43"
Page 7Fall—Winter 2016-17iv. Using an end mill cut a hole 2.43" diameter and 3/4" in depth.b. Cut a thread in the waste block as described in Section 4.6. Ornamenting the outside of the base.Step 1 Cutting the bead, half cove, and straight cut.a. Screw and tighten the lid into the base and install the lid into the holding chuck.b. Lock the headstock at top dead center, and check the base both axially and radially. Refer toLREAP document Section—1 1.1 and Section—1 1.5 respectively.c. Move the sliderest 90 perpendicular to the base. Install a 3/16" bead cutter in the UCF.d. Move the bead cutter about 1/8" from the bottom of the base and cut a bead around the base.Ensure the cutter and base are rotating in the correct direction so the base does not come loosefrom the lid.e. Replace the cutter with a 3/16" half cove cutter and cut a half cove around the base about 1/16" infrom the bead.f. Replace the half cove cutter with a 1/8" flat cutter and cut a flatnext to the half cove around the base. This depth will be used insection h. below.g. Install the UCF with the triangle cutters and turn the cutting head tovertical. Cut a groove in the middle of the 1/8" wide flat at thebottom of the base, and on the lower side of the ½ cove.h. Replace the UCF with the Drilling Frame and an end mill. Rotatethe base and use the end mill to cut the side to the depth of the flatcut in section f. above. Slowly move the end mill towards the top ofthe lid. Sand this area before ornamenting the box side with fish scales.Step 2 Ornamenting the side with fish scalesa. Replace the end mill with the eccentric cutter head.To determine the pitch necessary for the cutter:i. Measure the diameter at the middle of the base.ii. Use the calculation to find the circumference of the base:circumference π x diameter (3.142 x diameter)In the project the diameter was 2.635", therefore the circumference was 8.279".iii. Divide the circumference by the number of bumps on the rosette being used.In this project the rosette used was 24 sine.iv. The circumference 8.279" 24 0.344" (pitch).v. Set the eccentric cutter head to 0.469" i.e. 0.344" 0.125" to guarantee the circles meet.Refer to LREAP document Section—2 2.5 on setting the eccentric cutter head radius.Note: The larger the radius to which the tool is set, the shorter the fish scale will be. Thelongest fish scale possible is a radius of one half of the pitch.b. Lock the headstock at top dead center, and check the base radially. Refer to LREAP documentSection—1 1.5 respectively.c. Check the correct height of the eccentric cutter head to ensure a consistent pattern. Refer toLREAP document Section 2—2.3.d. Move the bottom slide to be perpendicular to the headstock (base is parallel with the spindle),and using the sliderest protractor, set the top slide to an angle of 10 .e. The eccentric cutter head will cut a partial circle on its right hand side. Install a ½" radius rubber
Fall—Winter 2016-17Page 8against a 24 sine rosette so that when the rubber is in the valleyof the rosette the headstock is at top dead center.Hint: To guarantee the lowest part of the valley is used at thestart of each row, set a dial indicator against the headstock anduse the dial and not the rosette to indicate the valley.f. Move the eccentric cutter head close to the side, but nottouching the ½ cove. Set the sliderest dial to 0.g. To set up the fish scale for the first row:i. Set the Crossing Wheel phasing to the 24 mark.ii. Move the rubber into the valley of the rosette, andmanually move the cutter in until it starts cutting a smallpartial circle. Set the depth sliderest dial to 0.iii. Turn the cutter on and move to the next valley of the rosette so another partial circle is cut.iv. If the two partial circles touch the depth is correct. If they donot touch, move the cutter in moving between the two valleysuntil the circles touch. Note the depth of cut.In this project the depth was 0.020".v. At this time move the cutter out slightly and rotate the basecutting the fish pattern around the base. Move the cutter inuntil the noted depth of cut is made.vi. Move the cutter out and turn it off.Hint: For the best results cut the fish scales by manually turningthe spindle, and moving the eccentric cutter head in each time tocut the fish scale.To set up the for the second row:h. On the Index Wheel or Crossing Wheel move the phasing by50%.i. Move the rubber into the valley of the rosette.Note: It is very important to complete this step at the start ofeach row. If not, you will ruin your pattern.j. Initially move the cutter along the base by 1 turn i.e. 0.10".k. Move the cutter in by hand so that it just touches the surface.The cutter should just touch the intersection of the two partialcircles in the first row. If it does not, move the cutter so that itdoes. Note the new measurement and use this measurement foreach row of fish scales.l. Rotate the base cutting the fish pattern around the base. Movethe cutter in until the noted depth of cut is made from f. IVabove.m. Repeat as many rows as possible using the process in g. above.Step 3 Finish ornamenting the side.a. Remove the rubber, and ensure the headstock is locked at topdead center so it does not rock.b. Use an indicator against the base to check the base radially.Refer to LREAP document Section—1 1.5.c. Install the UCF with the triangle cutters and turn the cuttinghead to vertical. Cut a groove against the last fish scale at the
Page 97.Fall—Winter 2016-17depth used previously.Ornamenting the bottom of the base.Step 1 Preparing the base.a. Leave the lid, which is attached to the base, in the holding chuck.b. Move the sliderest inline with the holding chuck and install the Drilling Frame with an end mill.c. Remove the tenon from the base, and move the end mill across the bottom ensuring a smoothsurface.Step 2 Ornamenting the base.a. Set the headstock at top dead center, and check the baseblank both axially and radially. Refer to LREAP documentSection—1 1.1 and Section—1 1.5 respectively.b. Remove the end mill and install the eccentric cutter head.Adjust the radius of the eccentric cutter head to fit the base.c. Place the spring loaded lever on the Crossing Wheel (theBird) in the 24 slot.d. Using a ½" round rubber and a 24 sine rosette cut 24 circlesaround the base.e. Move the Bird to the next slot (phased by 50%) and repeatcutting the 24 circles.f. The final step is to remove the rubber away from the rosette and lock the headstock to top deadcenter. Use an end mill to smooth out the center for a space to sign thebox.8. Ornamenting the lid.Step 1 Preparing the lid of box for an insert.a. Install the threaded waste block in the holding chuck and screw on thelid.b. Lock the headstock at top dead center, and check the lid blank bothaxially and radially. Refer to LREAP document Section—1 1.1 andSection—1 1.5 respectively.c. Install the Drilling Frame on the sliderest. Install a ¼" 4 flute singleended end mill in an end mill holder, and screw the end mill holderinto the Drilling Frame.d. Remove the tenon, and move the end mill across the surfaceensuring a smooth surface.e. Measure the diameter of the fish insert and use the end mill to boreout a hole of the same diameter and depth to receive the insert. If aninsert is not available this can be left to the end of the project.f. At this time a rim around the bore can be cut.Step 2 Setting up the RE for fluting.a. Ensure the headstock is locked at top dead center so it does not rock. Refer to LREAP document
Fall—Winter 2016-17Page 10Section—1 1.1.b. Install the Double Eccentric Dome Chuck on the RE.Adjust both slides so that they are lined up centralwith the spindle. Ensure the Double Eccentric Chuckis aligned correctly. Refer to LREAP documentSection—3 3.2a.c. Screw the ¾"-16 threaded waste block with the toponto the Phasing Chuck, and set the index wheel to0 .Hint: Always tighten the index wheel wheninstalling or removing work hold attachments suchas the waste block from the Phasing Chuck. If not,the teeth on the aluminum index wheel inside the Phasing Chuck will be stripped.d. Position the sliderest perpendicular to the top and install the Universal Cutting Frame with thetriangle cutters. Adjust and align the cutting head to the center height of the spindle. The cuttingframe must be truly horizontal, on center to the RE spindle, and centered to the Phasing Chuckspindle on the dome chuck.Step 3 Installing and positioning the Segment Stop.a. Place a level on the horizontal slide and rotate the slide until it is level. Lock the spindle.b. Move the top up and down, using the red adjustment wheel, to determine the thickness of the rim.This adjustment will not be touched again.c. Install the Segment Stop on the RE base and install the arm with the screw adjusters.d. Install the top metal stop in the Index Wheel and adjust the upper adjustment bolt to touch the metalstop. Unlock the spindle and swing the lid to ensure the top stops at the horizontal position. Makefine adjustments to the upper adjustment bolt.e. Install the lower metal stop and adjust the lower adjustment bolt so that the cutter stops before therim of the insert.f. Move the top backwards and forwards to ensure it stops at theFlutecorrect place.Step 4 Calculating the offset.a. To calculate the offset draw a side view of the top with the holefor the fish insert. Determine the shape of the flute and use acompass to draw the shape. If the point of the compass is on thecenterline there is no offset.b. However, if the point of the compass is not on the centerline thenthe offset should be calculated. Refer to Attachment A foradditional shapes that require the offset to be calculated.c. Swing the top from the top to the bottom ensuring thecutting frame head follows the planned contour of the flute,and the Index Wheel stops are working correctly. Use thesame red adjustment wheel and/or the sliderest to make anyfine adjustment. Set the Hardinge sliderest dial to 0.Step 5 Cutting the flutes.a. This particular top will have 18 flutes set 20 apart. To startcutting the flutes first set the Phasing Chuck to 0 .b. Turn on the Universal Cutting Frame and bring the cutterhead in slowly until a flute is cut. Note the depth of cutCenter Point
Page 11Fall—Winter 2016-17c.d.e.f.g.used.Turn off and retract the cutting head.Carefully move the index by 20 counter-clockwise and make another cut to the same depth.If the sides between the first and second flutes are not sharp or have flats between them it will benecessary to deepen the cut and repeat steps b. thru d.Hint: After a flute is cut a good technique is to increase the depth of cut by just a few thousandthsof an inch to produce a polished surface.Once the depth has been established repeat b. thru d. until all 18 flutes have been cut.This completes the outside of the lid.9.Completed BoxQuick TipJim Bodman does a lot of engine turning,and his hands got sore from the sharp edgesof the slide rest top. Jim screwed a softblock to the end of his slide for comforteliminating the problem.
Page 12Fall—Winter 2016-17Attachment A.Note: For the correct offset from centerline of the spindle of the Double Eccentric Dome Chuck move the lidAWAY from the cutter by the amount of the offset. Move the other slide until the cutter lines up with theplane of the radius point.ECH is the eccentric cutter headSliderest at 30 ECH radius 0.590—0.600"3/4"ECH radius mustcome from centerline1/2"Sliderest at 45 ECH radius of 0.625".Radius 3/8"Offset 1.050" fromcenter1/2"Lip at bottom offluteOffset 3/8" fromcenterlineRadius 0.938 or 11/16"3/4"
Page 13Fall—Winter 2016-17Ornamenting the Fish DesignBrian ClarryThe following document describes the steps in making ‘The Fish’ as described on page 99 of TD Walshaw’sbook, Ornamental Turning. These instructions for ornamenting the fish follow closely the measurements asdetailed in the book. However, removing the surplus wood around the fish is done differently.The rose engine used in this project is a Lindow Rose Engine (LRE) using the following equipment:1. Leveling Chuck2. Dial Indicator3. Holding Chuck4. Drilling Frame with the eccentric cutting head5. Drilling Frame with end mill6. Segment Stop and detent7. Digital Calipers8. 1/8” half-angle 50 cutter for fish pattern. (not 45 as suggested in TD Walshaw’s book)Note: Cutting occurs on both sides, therefore the long side of the cutter as well as the half-angle part of thecut
John Tarpley, Editor Volume 7 Fall—Winter 2016-17 Number 2 A Letter From David . Cut a piece of wood approximately 3 1/8" square and 3 1/4" long. Round the wood to its largest diameter, which will be about 3". Cut a 1 ¾" diameter by 1 /4" wide tenon at each end that will fit into . cutter is going in the same direction as the base.
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