BACKSTITCH BEAD BEAD KNITTING CHAIN STITCH

techniquesLOOMWORKFollow the manufacturer’s instructionsfor warping your bead loom. Note thatyou will need one more warp threadthan you have number of beads in arow. Tie a thread to an outside warp (tieonto the left warp if you are righthanded or the right warp if you are lefthanded). Use a needle to string the firstrow of beads and slide them down tothe knot. Bring the beaded weft threadunder the warp threads and push thebeads up so that there is one beadbetween each two warp threads. Holdthe beads in place and pass backthrough all the beads, making sure thatthe needle passes over the warpthreads. End the threads by weavingback through the beadwork, tyingknots between beads.NETTINGString a base row of 13 beads. String5 beads and pass back through the fifthbead from the end of the base row.String another 5 beads, skip 3 beads ofthe base row, and pass back throughthe next bead; repeat to the end of therow. To turn, pass back through the last3 beads (one leg of the last net). String5 beads, pass back through the centerbead of the next net, and continue.of the nearest net in the previousround. Repeat five times, then step upfor the next round by passing throughthe first 3 beads of this round. Workeach round the same way, increasingthe number of A beads as necessary tokeep the work flat, and stepping up bypassing through the first half of thefirst net.For tubular netting, string {1A and 1B}six times; pass through the beads againto form the foundation round. *String1A, 1B, and 1A; skip 1B and pass throughthe following 1B in the previous roundto form a “net.” Repeat from * twice,then step up for the next round bypassing through the first 2 beads of thisround. **String 1A, 1B, and 1A; passthrough the middle bead of the nearestnet in the previous round. Repeat from** twice, then step up as before. Workeach round the same way.OXIDIZING SILVERWITH LIVER OF SULFURAlways wear vinyl or latex gloves, workin a well-ventilated area (liver of sulfurhas an unpleasant odor that quickly dissipates), and carefully read manufacturer’s directions when using chemicals.Wash all silver to be colored with soapand water. Mix liver of sulfur nuggets inhot (not boiling) water according tomanufacturer’s directions in a disposable container. Most suggest mixing1 pea-size nugget for every 1 cup ofwater. A weaker solution will produce alighter patina with warm hues; a stronger solution will produce a darkerpatina.For ease of dipping your silver into thesolution, use 12" of beading or sewingthread to string the bead(s), chain, orfinding(s) you wish to oxidize; tie theends in an overhand knot. If coloringsmall items that cannot be strung (suchas crimp covers), you will need to dropthem in the solution and then quicklyscoop them out with a utensil(fig. a).Store all used solution in the disposablecontainer. After about a week, it willdegrade enough to be washed down asink (preferably a utility sink) with a lotof water. Contact your local hazardouswaste facility for more information ondisposing of the liquid safely.Pass through means to move the needlein the same direction that the beadshave been strung. Pass back throughmeans to move the needle in the opposite direction.PEARL KNOTTINGfig. aOVERHAND KNOTThis is the basic knot for tying offthread. Make a loop with the stringingmaterial. Pass the cord that lies behindthe loop over the front cord andthrough the loop; pull snug.Dip the silver in the solution as manytimes as necessary to achieve thedesired patina. If the silver becomesdarker than desired, it can always belightened later by buffing or polishing.fig. b3   WWW.INTERWEAVE.COMfig. cPASS THROUGHVS PASS BACK THROUGHOr, place small items on a paper toweland brush them with the solution; thismethod, however, often results inuneven coloring.For circular netting, string {1A and 1B}six times; pass through the beads againto form a circle for the foundationround and pass through the next 1A.*String 1A, 1B, and 1A; skip 1 bead andpass through the following bead in theprevious round to form a “net.” Repeatfrom * five times, then step up for thenext round by passing through the first2 beads of the first net. String 2A, 1B,and 2A; pass through the middle beadRinse the silver in cold water (fig. b). Tofurther stop oxidation, dip the silver in aweak solution (1:4) of baking soda andwater. Remove any threads you used tosuspend the metal. Allow the silvertodry, then, if desired, use a polishingcloth or #0000 (extra fine) steel wool tobuff and polish it (fig. c).Pearl knotting is traditionally workedwith silk cord. Generally packaged witha needle attached at one end, silk cordcan be prestretched by pulling it inchby inch through the thumb and forefinger. Use the needle to string a bead,then form a loose overhand knot. Placea needle (or an awl, tweezers, or knotting tool) in the knot and hold it next tothe bead. Gently pull the cord totighten the knot around the needleand snug to the bead. Pull the needleback out of the knot and string thenext bead.

techniquesPEYOTE STITCHFor one-drop even-count flat peyotestitch, string an even number of beadsto create the first two rows. Begin thethird row by stringing 1 bead and passing back through the second-to-lastbead of the previous row. Stringanother bead and pass back throughthe fourth-to-last bead of the previousrow. Continue adding 1 bead at a time,passing over every other bead of theprevious row.Two-drop peyote stitch is worked thesame as one-drop peyote stitch, butwith 2 beads at a time instead of 1 bead.For odd-count flat peyote stitch,string an uneven number of beads tocreate Rows 1 and 2. String 1 bead, skipthe last bead strung, and pass throughthe next bead. Repeat across the row(this is Row 3). To add the last bead,string 1 bead and knot the tail andworking threads, clicking all beads intoplace. Start the next row (Row 4) bypassing back through the last beadadded. Continue in peyote stitch, turning as for even-count at the end of thisand all even-numbered rows. At theend of all odd-numbered rows, add thelast bead, pass under the thread loop atthe edge of the previous rows, and passback through the last bead added.Begin a midproject peyote-stitchincrease by working a stitch with 2beads in one row. In the next row, work1 bead in each stitch, splitting the pairof beads in the previous row. For asmooth increase, use very narrow beadsfor both the two-drop and the onedrop between.To make a midproject peyote-stitchdecrease, simply pass the threadthrough 2 beads without adding a beadin the “gap.” In the next row, work regular one-drop peyote stitch over thedecrease. Work with tight tension toavoid holes.For circular peyote stitch, string3 beads and knot the tail and workingthreads to form the first round; passthrough the first bead strung. For thesecond round, string2 beads and pass through the nextbead of the previous round; repeattwice. To step up to the third round,pass through the first bead of the current round. For the third round, string 1bead and pass through the next beadof the previous round; repeat around,then step up at the end of the round.Continue in this manner, alternating thetwo previous rounds. It may be necessary to adjust the bead count, depending on the relative size of the beads, tokeep the circle flat.For even-count tubular peyote stitch,string an even number of beads andknot the tail and working threads toform the first 2 rounds; pass throughthe first 2 beads strung. To workRound 3, string 1 bead, skip 1 bead, andpass through the next bead; repeataround until you have added half thenumber of beads in the first round.Step up through the first bead added inthis round. For the following rounds,string 1 bead and pass through the nextbead of the previous round; repeat,stepping up at the end of each round.Work odd-count tubular peyote stitchthe same as even-count tubular peyotestitch; however, it isn’t necessary to stepup at the end of each round.4   WWW.INTERWEAVE.COMPICOTA picot is a decorative net, most oftenmade with 3 beads, used to embellish abeadwork surface.to string 2 beads; pass the left needlethrough the next bead on the previousrow and back through the last beadstrung.RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVEFor one-needle right-angle weave,string 4 beads and pass through thefirst 3 beads again to form the first unit.For the rest of the row, string 3 beadsand pass through the last bead exitedin the previous unit and the first2 beads just strung; the thread path willresemble a series of figure eights, alternating direction with each unit. Tobegin the next row, pass through beadsto exit from the top bead of the lastunit. String 3 beads and pass throughthe last bead exited and the first beadjust strung. *String 2 beads; pass backthrough the next top bead of the previous row, the last bead exited in the previous unit, and the 2 beads just strung.Pass through the next top bead of theprevious row. String 2 beads; passthrough the last bead of the previousunit, the top bead just exited, and thefirst bead just strung. Repeat from * tocomplete the row, then begin a newrow as before.To begin two-needle right-angleweave, add a needle to each end of thethread. Use one needle to string3 beads and slide them to the center ofthe thread. *Use one needle to string 1bead, then pass the other needle backthrough it. String 1 bead on each needle, then repeat from * to form a chainof right-angle-weave units. To turn atthe end of the row, use the left needleto string 3 beads, then cross the rightneedle back through the last beadstrung. Use the left needle to string3 beads, then cross the right needleback through the last bead strung. Tocontinue the row, use the right needleFor cubic right-angle weave, string4 beads, leaving a 3" tail. Pass throughthe beads again to form a tight circle;use the working and tail threads to tie asquare knot and pass through the firstbead strung. For the first face of thecube, string 3 beads and pass throughthe last bead exited at the bottom ofthe cube, then pass through the firstbead just added. For the second face ofthe cube, string 2 beads and pass backthrough the next bead at the bottom ofthe cube, then pass up through thenearest bead on the side of the firstface, pass through the 2 beads justadded, and pass through the next beadat the bottom of the cube. For the thirdface of the cube, string 2 beads; passdown through the nearest side beadon face 2, pass through the next beadat the bottom of the cube, and pass upthrough the first bead just added. Forthe fourth face of the cube, string 1bead; pass down through the nearestside bead on face 1, pass back throughthe next bead at the bottom of thecube, pass up through the nearest sidebead of face 3, and pass through thefirst bead just added. Pass through the4 beads at the top to complete thecube. For subsequent cubes, the beadsat the top of the previous cube will actas the bottom of the new cube.

techniquesSIMPLE LOOPFor a simple loop, use flat-nose pliersto make a 90 bend at least½" from the end of the wire.Use round-nose pliers tograsp the wire at the tip; rollthe pliers toward the bend,but not past it, to preservethe 90 bend. Adjust the pliers as needed to continuethe wrap around the nose of the pliers.Trim the wire next to the bend. Open asimple loop by grasping each side of itsopening with a pair of pliers. Don’t pullapart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close itwithout distorting the loop’s shape.SQUARE KNOTSLIPKNOTWith the tail end of the thread in yourpalm, wrap the working thread aroundyour index and middle fingers, and laythe working thread across the tail end,forming an X. Spread your fingersslightly and push the working threadthrough your fingers from the back ofyour hand. Pull this loop up slightlywhile holding the tail end of the threadto form a knot. Place the loop onto thecrochet hook and pull working threadto adjust the tension.SPIRALThis knot also works for creating adjustable closures for jewelry.Place the left and right cordsparallel to one another withthe ends in opposite directions. Fold one of the cordsback onto itself about 3inches. This is your workingcord. Wrap the working cordaround the other cord threetimes. Insert the workingcord through the wraps, exiting the folded end. Tighten.Turn the necklace or braceletover and repeat entire stepfor the other side.SPIRAL ROPEThe basic formula for a spiral rope haslarger beads as the center core, withsmaller and more beads in the outerloops. String 4A (core) and 5B (loop).Pass through the 4A again, forming a Dshape. *String 1A and 5B; pass throughthe top 3A and the 1A just strung.Repeat from *.A stop bead (or tension bead) holdsyour work in place. To make one, stringa bead larger than those you are working with, then pass through the beadone or more times, making sure not tosplit the thread.STRINGINGStringing is a technique that uses beading wire, needle and thread, or othermaterial to gather beads into a strand.This knot is a secure way to connecttwo threads: Wrap the two ends aroundeach other two or more times, thenwrap one end around the other in theother direction once; pull snug.For circular square stitch, string thefirst round of beads and pass throughthem again to form a circle. Start a newround by stringing 2 beads; passthrough the last bead of the first roundand through the 2 beads just strung.Repeat around, passing through thenext bead of the previous round foreach 2 new beads strung. At the end ofthe round, pass through the wholeround again to tighten the beads. Starta new round by stringing 2 beads; passthrough the last bead of the previousround and through the 2 beads juststrung. String 1 bead and pass throughthe next bead of the previous roundand the bead just strung. Repeataround, stitching 1 or 2 beads to eachbead of the previous round, adjustingthe count as necessary to keep the workflat.SLIP STITCH*Insert crochet hook in stitch, yarn overand draw loop through stitch and loopon hook; repeat from *.For tubular square stitch, string thefirst round of beads and pass throughthem again to form a circle. Start a newround by stringing 1 bead; passthrough the last bead of the first roundand through the bead just strung.Repeat around, passing through thenext bead of the previous round for5   WWW.INTERWEAVE.COMSTOP BEADSURGEON’S KNOTTo start a spiral (or scroll), make a smallloop at the end of a wire with roundnose pliers. Enlarge the piece by holding on to the spiral with chain-nosepliers and pushing the wire over theprevious spiral with your fingers for asmany revolutions as desired.SLIDE KNOTSeach new bead strung. At the end of theround, pass through the whole roundagain to tighten the beads.SQUARE STITCHString a row of beads. For the secondrow, string 2 beads; pass through thesecond-to-last bead of the first row andthrough the second bead just strung.Continue by stringing 1 bead, passingthrough the third-to-last bead of thefirst row, and passing through the beadjust strung. Repeat this looping technique to the end of the row.SINGLE-STITCH BEADEMBROIDERYTie a knot at one end of the thread. Passup through the foundation from backto front. String 1 bead and pass the needle back down through the foundationright next to the bead. Note: If usingbugle beads, string them with a seedbead on each end to protect the threadfrom the bugle’s sharp edges; stitch all3 beads as 1 bead.This knot is the classic sturdy knot suitable for most stringing materials. Makean overhand knot, passing the right endover the left end. Make another overhand knot, this time passing the leftend over the right end; pull snug.TRIANGLE WEAVEString 3 beads and tie them into a circleto form a triangle, then pass throughthe first bead to form the first unit.String 2 beads; pass through the beadjust exited and the 2 beads just added.Continue adding 2 beads at a time tomake a series of triangles. To form thesecond row, exit from the first bead ofthe last unit added. String 2 beads; passthrough the last bead exited and the2 beads just added. String 2 beads; passthrough the second bead of the lastunit and the first bead just added.String 1 bead; pass through the edgebead of the adjacent unit from the previous row. String 2 beads; pass throughthe bead added in the last unit and thefirst bead just added. Repeat across therow, creating units by alternating1-bead and 2-bead additions.

techniquesTUBULAR NETTINGWHIPSTITCH EDGINGString 1A and 1B six times; pass throughthem again to form the foundationround. *String 1A, 1B, and 1A; skip 1Band pass through the following 1B inthe previous round to form a “net”.Repeat from * twice, then step up forthe next round by passing through thefirst 2 beads of this round. **String 1A,1B, and 1A; pass through the middlebead of the nearest net in theprevious round. Repeat from ** twice,then step up as before. Work eachround the same way.To add a low-profile edging, start byexiting away from the beadwork from1 edge bead. String 1 bead and passthe needle under the nearest threadloop on the side of the beadwork. Pullthe thread to snug the bead against theedge of the beadwork. Repeat alongthe edge (blue thread). As with brickstitch, this edging allows you to use anysize bead because you can change thenumber of stitches attached to thethread loops (red thread).WIREGUARDSTWO-NEEDLE APPLIQUÉ FLATBEADWORKFor two-needle appliqué flat beadwork, tie a knot at the end of thethread. Pass up through the templateand foundation from back to front.String your desired number of beadsonto this needle and set it aside.Thread a second needle and tie a knotat the end the thread. Hold the work inyour non-dominant hand, keeping tension on the first thread by wrappingthe thread around a finger. Use the second needle to pass up through thetemplate and foundation from back tofront, 2 or 3 beads from the start, following the design on the template.Pass down through the foundation andtemplate from front to back on theother side of the beads, forming acouching stitch over the first thread.Repeat until your pattern ends, couching every 2–3 beads, keeping tensionon the first thread taut and addingbeads as needed. Tie off your threadson the back of the beadwork.6   WWW.INTERWEAVE.COMWireguards provide a smooth metalchannel to protect the stringing material from chafingagainst a connector.String a crimp tube,then pass up throughone half of the guardand down the otherhalf. Pass the guardand wire through theloop of the connector, pass the wireback through the crimp tube, snug thetube up to the guard, then crimp.For a simple loop, use flat-nose pliersto make a 90 bend at least½" from the end of the wire.Use round-nose pliers tograsp the wire at the tip; rollthe pliers toward the bend,but not past it, to preservethe 90 bend. Adjust the pliers as needed to continuethe wrap around the nose of the pliers.Trim the wire next to the bend. Open asimple loop by grasping each side of itsopening with a pair of pliers. Don’t pullapart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close itwithout distorting the loop’s shape.To form a double simple loop, makethe 90º bend at least 1" fromthe end of the wire. Make asimple loop and continuewrapping the wire aroundthe round-nose pliers toform two complete loops.To form a wrapped loop, begin with a90 bend at least 2" from the end of thewire. Use round-nose pliers to form asimple loop with a tail overlapping thebend. Wrap the tail tightly down theneck of the wire two or three times.Trim the excess wire to finish. Make athicker, heavierlooking wrapped loop by wrapping thewire back up over the coils, toward theloop, and trimming at the loop.WIREWORKINGTo open a jump ring, grasp each sideof its opening with a pair of pliers.Don’t pull apart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can openand close it without distorting thering’s shape.For a wrapped-loop bail, center abead on a 3" or longer piece of wire.Bend both ends of the wire up the sidesand across the top of the bead. Bendone end straight up at the center of thebead, thenwrap theother wirearound ittwo or threetimes. Forma wrappedloop withthe straightup wire,wrapping it back down over thealready-formed coils. Trim theexcess wire.For wrapped-loop links,link a wrapped loop to another loop bypassing the wire through the previousloop before wrapping the tail downthe neck of thewire.For a coil, use onehand to hold theend of the wireagainst a mandrel.With the otherhand, wrap thewire around themandrel in tightloops. T

EMBROIDERY Tie a knot at the end of the thread. Pass up through the foundation from back . 1 bead in each stitch. Join the stitches into a ring by inserting . FRINGE Exit from the foundation row of beads or fabric. String a length of beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass