ESSENTIAL GUIDE - L’Oréal Professionnel Education

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Acolour for every client Ammonia free permanent colour. No odour, optimum scalp comfort.Result: Fashionable & multidimensional.Perfect for: Women who want permanent colour with a modern result.Also available - Inoa Carmilane, Inoa Blond Resist & Inoa Brown Resist.Secret weapon for 70% white hair coverage.Ammonia free permanent colour.Result: Luminous reflects and added volume.Perfect for: Women who want a multi-dimensional result and white hair coverage.Classic, rich permanent colour that treats the hair while colouring.Result: Intense and long lasting colour.Perfect for: Women who want the ultimate radiant colour results with absolute confidence.Also available - Majirel Cool Cover, Majirel High Lift, Majirel Mix, Majicontrast, Majirouge.Tone on tone rich colour.Result: Long lasting and deep reflects.Perfect for: Women who want incredible softness and rich reflects.Also available - Dia Richesse Hi-Visibility, Dia Richesse Milkshakes.Tone on tone luminous colour.Result: Natural and long lasting shine.Perfect for: Women who want natural, glossy colour with little commitment.Also available - Dia Light Milkshakes.3

Numbering SystemNumbering systemReading a number10 levels and 7 8Lightest BlondeVery Light BlondeLight BlondeBlondeDark BlondeLight BrownBrownDark BrownVery Dark icMochaAll colours have a number that gives the followinginformation:7 . 4Level opper Golden Copper BlondeReflect intensityThe strength of a reflect is indicatedby its number.The following scale shows the intensityof a copper reflect:The first number indicates the level of colour.The first number after the point indicates theprimary reflect.The second number after the point indicates thesecondary reflect.04COPPER COPPERNATURALSOFTEST4.4.44.40TRUEINTENSECOPPER COPPERSTRONGEST

.8 MochaBlue.1 AshViolet.2 IridescentGreen.7 MetallicRed.6 RedLevel 4Mahogany.5 MahoganyYellow.3 GoldOrange.4 CopperLevel 9Note : Mocha .8Association of cool and warm reflects. A cool reflect formulation adapted to each level. .8 Mocha is a unique calibration of:Mahogany, iridescent, ash, green and gold, ranging from level 4 to 9.Darker shades are a combination of .5, .2, .1.Lighter shades are a combination of .1, .7, .3.Colour Selection GuideStep-by-step selection:5. If the answer is:1. Determine thenatural level.Yes, supports – Use the dreamshade to achieve the end result.2. Select the dream shade.3. Determine the levels oflightening.This tells you which strengthof Oxydant you need to use toachieve the dream result.4. Determine which undercoatwill be achieved.Will the undercoat blend with andsupport the dream shade to achievethe ideal result or will it interferewith it?Remember: The end colouris a combination of the shadeapplied the undercoatobtained.No, interferes with the dreamshade – You may need to neutraliseor subdue the undercoat and use adifferent shade to achieve the endresult.Examples:1. Natural level: 5 Light Brown.2. Dream shade: 7.45.3. Levels of lightening: 2 20 volume (6%)4. Undercoat: Yellow/orange.5. Result: The yellow/orangeundercoat will support thedream shade. Use 7.45 20volume (6%) Oxydant.1. Natural level: 6 Dark Blonde.2. Dream shade: 8 Light Blonde.3. Levels of lightening: 2 20 volume (6%)4. Undercoat: Yellow.5. Result: The yellow undercoatwill interfere with the dreamshade and will need to beneutralised. Use 8.2 20volume (6%) Oxydant.5


SMARTBONDSMARTBOND Bond strengthening system to use with lightener, prelightener, colour, perm and straightening. Protects hair from damage or breakage, and strengthensduring technical services. Makes hair softer, stronger and shinier. For use with straightening and perm solutions see page 73.TECHNOLOGYSmartbond limits the oxidative stress inside the hair fibre to preserve the strong bonds and captures ions to allow weakerbonds to rebuild during technical services. The hero ingredient, Maelic Acid, protects strong bonds and restores weakbonds. Smartbond is a 3 step process with steps 1 and 2 used in the salon and step 3 at home.Step 1: Additive Mixed into all colours, lightening pastes and powders. Bond protecting and strengthening action during technical services.Step 2: Pre-Shampoo Applied on hair after rinsing colour, lightening pastes or powders. Finishing action after the service to help rinse off all chemical residues breaking weak bonds.Step 3: Conditioner Used once a week after Smartbond in salon service. Step 3 continuously strengthens the fibre week after week. Client keeps same salon result at home.MIXINGADDITIVEMIXED INTO ALL COLOURS,LIGHTENING PASTES ORPOWDERSProductAdditiveEfassor with water orOxydant8ml for 1 packetColour, High Lift or Tone onTone.4ml for 1 tube (50g or 60gtube)Lightening Oil2ml for 30ml of oilMajimèches4ml for 1 packetLightening powder or paste4ml for 15-30gm of powder.8ml for 30-60gm of powder.Stand alone service15ml for 90ml water1ml 1 GramPRE-SHAMPOOTO BE APPLIED ON THEHAIR AFTER RINSINGCOLOUR, LIGHTENINGPASTES OR POWDERSPre-ShampooAT HOME CARETO BE USED ONCE A WEEKAFTER THE SMARTBONDIN SALON SERVICE.ConditionerDepending on length andtexture of the hair.4-8 pumps depending onhair length and texture.Use once a week,leave on for1-3 minutes.1 pump 4 Grams7

MIXINGColour and Pre-Lightening Smartbond Step 1: Additive Prepare product and Oxydant as usual. Add Step 1 additive by using the dosage dispenser and scales. 1 colour tube 4ml. 30g Pre-Lightener 8ml. Apply onto the hair following usual development times. Rinse-out and towel dry. Do not shampoo.Colour and Pre-Lightening Smartbond Step 2: Pre-Shampoo Apply pre-shampoo from roots to lengths and leave in for 10 minutes. 4-8 pumps depending on length and texture of the hair. Rinse out. Apply usual shampoo and care.As a Stand Alone Service Mix Smartbond 15ml of Step 1 and 90ml of water in applicator bottle. Apply on dry hair, saturate and comb through. Leave on for 5 minutes. Without rinsing apply step 2. 4-8 pumps depending on hair length and texture. Leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse through. Apply usual shampoo and care.Colour Cleanse: Step 1 and 2 with Efassor. Prepare Efassor mix as normal. Add Step 1 Smartbond, 1 sachet 8ml. Once desired level of cleanse is achieved, rinse well and towel dry. Apply Step 2 Smartbond, 4-8 pumps depending on hair length. Leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse well. If colouring on the same day, proceed with normal colour routine, adding Smartbond to the colourmix to protect the hair. Apply usual shampoo and care.8C1 - Internal use


UNPRECEDENTED COMFORTThe ultimate in-salon experience foryour clients.Extra benefits for hairdressers.Rapid self-emulsifying mixture.Velvety, skincare-like texture.Odourless, ammonia free.Optimised scalp comfort.Lipids on the surface of the hairFriction Force (measures smoothness)OPTIMISED RESPECT FOR THE HAIR *NaturalhairODS1 applicationODS5 applicationsThe hair fibre is better protected,application after application.NaturalhairClassiccolourationODS5 applicationsHair as smooth as before colouration**, for asofter touch.After each application of INOA ODS, the lipidson the surface of the hair are maintained andcomparable to natural hair.After each application the smoothness of the hairsurface is maintained when compared to classiccolouration.Lipids within the cortex of the hair are alsomaintained and comparable to natural hair.After 5 applications tests show that hair colouredwith INOA ODS is as smooth as natural hair**.*Helps maintain the hair’s natural level of lipids and essential amino acids**Instrumental test after 5 applicationsUNLIMITED COLOUR RESULTSTrue and predictable shades: neutralising coolshades, vibrant and luminous warm shades.Exceptionally even colour from roots to ends.100% coverage of white hair.Lightens up to 3 levels in 35 minutes.10NaturalbasicWarm brown/Warm beigeGoldCool brown/Cool ic

INOA ODSTECHNOLOGYINOA COLOURING ODS TECHNOLOGY(OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM)New ‘Bi-Captiv’ Agent with innovative structure binds the oil phases together.The combination of aqueous and oily phase is stabilised for more performance,simpler and faster application.INSIDE THE HAIROily PhaseAqueous PhaseColourantAlkaline Agent MEA(monoethanolamine)Bi-Captiv AgentIONÈNE G protects and reinforces the hair whilst a surface protecting agent offers nutrition and shine to the hair’s fibre.ACACTIVE CARE IONÈNEG Brings shine, protects theSurface (Zone A) of the hair.ACTIVE CARE IONÈNE G Treats the Cortex in depth(Zone C), heart of the hair.Rubilane :The RubilaneTM signature is pure, intense, powerful copper to copper red shades.1st innovation:Infini – A colour molecule with a unique structure.Offers more saturation and intense reflects with clarity and vividness.2nd innovation:Rheo - Control Polymer.Offers a supple and creamy mixture.Carmilane :The CarmilaneTM signature is intense, deep and bright red shades.Innovation:An intense red molecule infused with a droplet of blue to give a cool, yet rich, deep colour.The Carmilane technology ensures a vibrant red result and unmatched fade resistance when comparedto reds without the Carmilane technology.Note: Rubilane and Carmilane shades can only be used alone. Do not use them in combination with any other INOAshades.11

MIXINGWear suitable single use gloves. MIX 1:11 tube (60gm)60mls Riche Oxydant (10, 20 or 30 volume)Mix with the INOA whip until a smooth creamy texture is achieved. Add 4mls Smartbond Step 1 and mix.WHICH OXYDANT TO USE?INOA ODS Riche Oxydant10 VOLUME (3%)20 VOLUME (6%)30 VOLUME (9%) Darken natural hair. Lightening up to 2 levels. Lightening up to 3 levels. Colour level on level. White hair coverage. Lengths and ends techniques.WHITE HAIR COVERAGE0- 70% White hair:Use desired shade.70%-100% White hair:Mix ½ tube (30gm) dream shade ½ tube (30gm) natural fundamental on the same level 60mls 20 volume Riche OxydantONLY (1:1 ratio).Deeper/more opaque coverage:Mix with a fundamental shade one level darker than the dream shade.e.g. ½ tube (30gm) 6.45 ½ tube (30gm) of 5.3More subtle coverage:Use only ¼ tube (15gm) of fundamental shade.e.g. ¾ tube (45gm) 6.45 ¼ tube (15gm) of 6.3Resistant white hair:Use white hair rules for 50% or more white hair.Note: When using Rubilane or Carmilane shades for white coverage, no natural basic shade is required and intense results will be achieved.Grey coverage chart:COOLSHADESWARMSHADESRESULTSNATURAL BASICReinforced coverage, accurate cool or warm reflect.DEEP NATURAL BASIC (.0)Deep and intense coverage. Perfect for thick, difficult hair.GOLD BASIC (.3)Ensure excellent coverage, accurate result withoutcompromising the visibility of the warm reflect.APPLICATIONStep 1: Apply to the root area.12Step 2: Begin development time afterapplication to the roots.Fade levelLengths and EndsColour hardly altered or the sameStep 3: Take through using theappropriate lengths & ends technique.Colour moderately alteredNote: Do not add warm water to mid-lengths andends mixture.Very altered colour or colour changeLengths & endsCondition: Slightly SensitisedTake the colour through 5 minutes beforethe end of development timeTake the colour through 20 minutesbefore the end of development timeTake the colour through immediately

INOA ODSDEVELOPMENT TIME35 minutes.EMULSIFICATION AND RINSINGGently emulsify to remove the colour from the scalp.Add a few drops of warm water and keep on emulsifying.Rinse until water runs clear and towel dry.Apply Smartbond Step 2 and leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse well.Shampoo with INOA Post Shampoo.ADVANCEDVirgin hair:Step 1: Apply your chosen dream shade 2cm away from the scalp through to the lengths and ends.Step 2: Immediately apply to the 2cm root area and blend through the original application.Develop for 35 minutes.21Long regrowth:Step 1: Apply your dream shade to the long regrowth 2cm away from the scalp through to the regrowth line.Step 2: Immediately apply to the 2cm root area and blend through the original application. Develop for 35 minutes.Step 3: Apply dream shade to the lengths and ends using the appropriate lengths and ends technique.See chart page 12213Colour In:When you are changing your clients hair colour and going darker it is important to replace the missing undercoat to ensurea beautiful and even colour result.Use the chart below to determine the best colour in technique for your client.Depth on lengths and endsSlightly sentisised1 LevelTake through immediately2 LevelColour balance in3 LevelColour balance in3 olourationTake Through Immediately:Step 1: Apply dream shade to the root area.Step 2: Begin development time after application to the roots, 35 minutes.Step 3: Take through immediately.13


Secret weapon for 70% white hair coverage. Ammonia freepermanent colour. Result: Luminous reflects and added volume. Perfect for: Women who want a multi-dimensional result and white hair coverage. Classic, rich permanent colour that treats the hair while colouring. Result: Intense and long lasting colour. Perfect for: Women who want the ultimate radiant colour results with absolute confidence .

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