LAKE TAHOE BASIN - Tahoe Living With Fire

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SP-14-05LAKE TAHOE BASINA partnership of Nevada Counties; University of Nevada, Reno; and the U.S. Department of Agriculture

Do You Know What It Takes To Survive Wildfire?Fire Adapted Community:A community located in a fire-prone area that requireslittle assistance from firefighters during a wildfire.Residents of these communities accept responsibilityfor living in a high fire-hazard area. They possess theknowledge and skills to Prepare their homes and property tosurvive wildfire. Evacuate early, safely and effectively. Survive, if trapped by wildfire.Lake Tahoe Basin at RiskThere is more wildfire in our future and for many areas, it is not a matterof “if” a wildfire is going to occur, but “when.” Unfortunately, manyresidents in the Lake Tahoe Basin and their homes are not prepared tosurvive wildfire. Faced with the growing potential for loss of human lifeand property due to wildfire, the Lake Tahoe Basin’s firefighting agencies,Tahoe Resource Conservation District, and University of NevadaCooperative Extension have come together to promote the Fire AdaptedCommunity concept and support the Tahoe Network of Fire AdaptedCommunities. They believe this is the best opportunity to decrease thewildfire threat.There are proven steps that homeowners can take to improve personalsafety and home survival during wildfire. The purpose of this publicationis to present these steps and encourage neighbors to work togetherand with their local fire firefighting agency to take action. Onceimplemented at the neighborhood level, these recommendations willassist communities in becoming fire adapted.Element of a Fire Adapted Community: A high-intensity wildfire was burningthrough tree crowns (black area in the upper half of photograph) during theLake Tahoe Basin’s Angora Fire. The orange arrow shows the direction the firewas burning. When it reached a fuelbreak where the trees had been thinned, thefire changed from a crown fire to a lower-intensity surface fire (area of browntrees) that reduced the threat to nearby homes. Community fuelbreaks are oftena key element of becoming a Fire Adapted Community. Photograph from “AnAssessment of Fuel Treatment Effects on Fire Behavior, Suppression Effectiveness,and Structure Ignition on the Angora Fire,” R5-TP-025, USDA Forest Service.Who Wins, Who LosesWhy do some houses survive a wildfire, while others are destroyed? Research findings prove thathouse survival during wildfire is not random, miraculous or dumb luck. Rather, it is the features ofthe house, the characteristics of the adjacent vegetation and other fuels, and routine maintenancethat often determine which homes burn and which survive. These types of actions are calledprefire activities. Prefire activities are actions completed before a wildfire occurs that improve thesurvivability of people and the home. The winners will be the people who implement prefire activities. When everyone in the neighborhood completes their prefire activities, they start becoming aFire Adapted Community.“The more coordinated actions we take as a community toprepare for the wildfire battleground, the more we tip theodds in our favor. The best preparation doesn’t start at thefire house or at the Governor’s Mansion, it starts right athome in our own backyard and with our neighbors.”Tim Alameda, Fire ChiefLake Valley Fire Protection DistrictSurviving a Wildfire pg.2

The Elements of a Fire Adapted CommunityDefensibleSpaceCommunityProtectionProper managementof vegetation surrounding thehome reduces thewildfire threat.Well-designed fuelbreaksand safe areas protectthe community.BuiltEnvironmentAccessGood access helpsemergency respondersarrive in a timely manner.EvacuationAppropriate homeconstruction andmaintenance resistsignition.Prepared communitiescan evacuate safely andeffectively.pg.3 Surviving a Wildfire

Fire is Natural to the Lake Tahoe Basin’s EnvironmentFire has been a natural part of Tahoe’s environment for thousands of years. These historic fires werefrequent, of low intensity and a major influence on the appearance of Tahoe’s forests. Beginning inthe 1870s, Tahoe’s forests and the occurrence of fire started to change.Much of the Lake Tahoe Basin is considered a “fire environment.” It contains flammablevegetation and a climate to support fire. Fire is a natural process in the Lake Tahoe Basin, andmany of the plants growing here have adaptations to survive and thrive in the presence offrequent fires. In fact, it is unnatural for fire to be absent for very long in many areas of the LakeTahoe Basin.Low-intensity FireSome Tahoe Basinplants, such as Jeffreyand ponderosa pine,require the conditionspresent after a fire togerminate and grow.The map presented at right (Page 5) shows the occurrence of fire in the Tahoe Basin prior toEuropean-American settlement. During this period, much of the Lake Tahoe Basin burned, onaverage, every five to 18 years. These areas are shown as pale yellow on the map. Because theseareas burned so often, large amounts of wildfire fuels could not build up. Consequently, thesefires were usually of low intensity.The frequency and intensity of fire influences the type and health of Tahoe’s forests. The frequent,low-intensity fires prior to European-American settlement created an open, park-like forest. Thephoto at the bottom left corner is of Emerald Bay, taken in the 1890s. Experts feel this is a goodexample of what Tahoe’s original (prior to European-American settlement) forest looked like.The low-intensity fires thinned out young trees and shrubs and also reduced the buildup ofdeep layers of pine needles, leaves and twigs. The older, thick-barked trees survived this type offire. As a result, the forest consisted of a variety of age classes of trees, including large, maturetrees with a sparse understory.This is no longer the case for Tahoe’s forest.Original ForestLogging EraThe New ForestPrior to 1870, low-intensity fires burned routinelyin the Tahoe Basin. These fires created an open,patchy forest dominated by large trees. Theraging, high-intensity wildfires reported intoday’s newspaper headlines were uncommon.During the 1870s to 1890s, much of the TahoeBasin was logged. E.B. Scott in “The Saga ofLake Tahoe” states, “By the fall of 1897 nothingremained at Incline but stripped forest land.”A new forest establishes in the aftermath of thelogging era. But now, fire has been effectivelyeliminated as a natural influence. Withoutfrequent, low-intensity fires to thin dense stands oftrees, the forest becomes overcrowded.1870Tahoe’s Forest Timeline19002000Emerald Bay - 1990sEmerald Bay - 1890sSurviving a Wildfire pg.4

Tahoe’s HistoricFire OccurrenceTahoe’s Current Forest and Fire Threat.Today’s forest is much different thanthe forest that existed prior to 1870. Thelow-elevation mixed-conifer forest of theLake Tahoe Basin, where most homes arelocated, has four times more understorytrees today than it did prior to 1870. Inaddition, there has been a substantialincrease in the amount of shrubs present.The photographs of Emerald Bay at thebottom of Page 4 are of the same location,but taken 100 years apart. Notice that largetrees in the 1890s photograph are stillpresent in the more recent photograph.However, there has been a considerableincrease in the density of trees and shrubsin the understory. A major cause of theincrease in woody plants has been thelack of frequent, low-intensity fires. WithEuropean-American settlement, these fireswere effectively suppressed.Mean Fire ReturnInterval (years)Source: Lake Tahoe Watershed Assessment: Volume I.General Technical Report PSW GTR-175. Pacific SouthwestResearch Station. USDA Forest Service.Under these unnatural conditions,uncontrollable, high-intensity fires are muchmore likely. The Emerald Fire is a recentexample of this type of fire in the LakeTahoe Basin. Furthermore, the forest is lesshealthy and more susceptible to diseaseand insects, particularly during drought.The result has been a high rate of treemortality throughout the region.High-intensity FireDense stands of trees are more likely to be stressedduring drought and are often more vulnerable todisease and insects.Tahoe Today.Today’s ForestTahoe’s current forest is typically thick with trees, brush anddead vegetation. In many areas, fire has been absent for overa hundred years. As a result, there has been a great buildupof wildfire fuel. Homes have now been added to Tahoe’swildfire fuel mix.The likelihood foruncontrollable,high-intensitywildfire that impactswatersheds, destroysneighborhoods,and takes human lifeis high in many areasof the Lake TahoeBasin.The aftermath of Lake Tahoe Basin’s high-intensityEmerald Fire from 2016. Photograph courtesy of CALFIRE.pg.5 Surviving a Wildfire

Community ProtectionFuelbreak: A fuelbreak is a strip of land where highlyflammable vegetation is modified to reduce the wildfirethreat. Fuelbreaks change fire behavior by slowing itdown, reducing the length of flames and preventingthe fire from reaching tree canopies. Fuelbreaks canimprove the success of fire retardant dropped from theair, provide a safer area for firefighters to operate, andallow for easier creation of firelines (a strip of bare groundestablished during a wildfire). A shaded fuelbreak iscreated on forested lands when trees are thinned, treecanopies are raised by removing lower branches, andthe understory vegetation is managed to reduce the firethreat. Community fuelbreaks are particularly effectivewhen integrated with the defensible space of adjacenthomes. They can be manmade or naturally occurring(rock outcrops, rivers and meadows).Community Protection pg.6Shaded FuelbreakShaded Fuelbreak

Safe Area: A safe area is a designated locationwithin a community where people can go towait out the wildfire. Often, ballparks, golfcourses, parks and parking lots can serve assafe areas.Prescribed Fire: In some areas of the Lake Tahoe Basin,prescribed fire is used by agencies to reduce wildfire fuels nearhomes. Prescribed fire is the intentional use of fire to managevegetation. A prescribed fire project is well-planned, carefullyorchestrated and involves the disciplines of fire ecology, firesuppression, forestry and public safety. The important parts of aprescribed fire project are: Training - Personnel have received extensive training andhave been certified in prescribed fire. Preburn Activities - Each winter a multidisciplinary teamdevelops the “Burn Plan” for the upcoming fall burn season.During the summer months work crews start preparing theburn sites by creating firebreaks, clearing around high valuetrees and thinning dense pockets of brush. Burn Day - The specific date of a proposed fire cannot bedetermined very far in advance. A “Go/No-go Checklist”is used to decide if a prescribed fire can be safely andeffectively conducted. If the necessary conditions are notoptimal, the fire will be postponed until conditions “comeinto prescription.” The illustration presented at left portrays atypical prescribed fire. Tending the Burn - Prescribed fires are managed to minimizesmoke production and maximize fuel consumption.Personnel closely monitor the site until the project iscompleted.pg.7 Community Protection

AccessAddress: The home address shouldbe readily visible from the street.The address sign should be made ofreflective, noncombustible materialwith characters at least 6 inches high.Gated Driveways: Electronicallyoperated driveway gates require keyaccess for local fire departments anddistricts. They may require a permitand have additional requirements.Contact your local fire agency priorto installing a gated driveway.Turnarounds: Homes locatedat the end of long driveways ordead-end roads should haveturnaround areas suitable for largefire equipment. Turnarounds can bea cul-de-sac with at least a 45-footradius or a location suitable for a3-point turn. Contact your localfire agency for specific turnaroundrequirements.Access pg.8

Driveway Clearance: Remove flammablevegetation extending at least 10 feet from bothsides of the driveway. Overhead obstructions(overhanging branches and power lines)should be removed or raised to provide atleast a 13½-foot vertical clearance.Secondary Road: When communitiesonly have one way in and out, evacuation ofresidents while emergency responders arearriving can result in traffic congestion andpotentially dangerous driving conditions. Asecond access road, even one only used foremergency purposes, can improve traffic flowduring a wildfire and provide an alternateescape route.Street Signs: Street signsshould be posted at eachintersection leading to yourhome. Each sign shouldfeature characters that areat least 4 inches high andshould be made of reflective,noncombustible material.Bridges and Culverts: Inadequatelybuilt bridges and culverts may preventfirefighting equipment from reachingyour home. Do not use plastic culverts.Ask your local fire marshal about properbridge and culvert design for your area.Road Width and Grade: Roadsshould be at least 20 feet wide andlong driveways should be at least12 feet wide with a steepness gradeof less than 12 percent.Turnouts: Homes located at theend of long, narrow streets anddead ends can deter firefightersand complicate evacuation. Ifpossible, create turnouts in thedriveway and access roads thatwill allow two-way traffic.pg.9 Access

Defensible SpaceWildland Fuel Reduction Area: This areausually lies beyond the residential landscapeand often consists of naturally occurringplants, such as pine trees, manzanita,sagebrush, etc. Within this area: Remove all dead vegetation, includingdead shrubs, dried grass, fallen branches,thick accumulations of needles andleaves, etc. Thin out thick shrubs and trees to createa separation between them. Removingtrees more than 14 inches in diameterrequires a permit from your local fireagency. Prevent ladder fuels by removing low treebranches and shrubs under the tree.Noncombustible Area: Create a Noncombustible Area at least 5 feet wide around thebase of your home. This area needs to have a very low potential for ignition from flyingembers. Use irrigated herbaceous plants such as lawn, ground cover and flowers that arerecommended for the Lake Tahoe Basin; rock mulches; or hard surfaces, such as brick andpavers, in this area. Keep it free of woodpiles, wood mulches, dead plants, dried leaves andneedles, flammable shrubs (such as juniper), and debris.Defensible Space pg.10

Lean, Clean and Green Area: For a distance of at least 30 feet from thehome, there should be a Lean, Clean and Green Area. Lean indicatesthat only a small amount of flammable vegetation, if any, is presentwithin 30 feet of the house. Clean means there is no accumulation ofdead vegetation or flammable debris within the area. Green denotesthat plants located within this area are kept healthy, green and irrigatedduring fire season. For most homeowners, the Lean, Clean and GreenArea is the residential landscape. This area often has irrigation, containsornamental plants and is routinely maintained.See Page 14, Five Steps to Creating an Effective Defensible Spacepg.11 Defensible Space

Built EnvironmentEaves: Embers can accumulate under openeaves and enter the attic through gaps inconstruction materials. Covering the undersideof the eaves with a soffit, or boxing in theeaves, reduces the ember threat. Enclose eaveswith fiber cement board or 5/8-inch-thick,high-grade plywood. If enclosing eaves is notpossible, fill gaps under open eaves with caulk.Exterior Siding: Wood products (boards, panels andshingles) are common siding materials. However, theyare combustible and not good choices for fire-proneareas. Noncombustible siding materials (stucco, brick,cement board and steel) are better choices. Log homesthat utilize fire-rated chinking or notched logs are alsogood choices. If using noncombustible siding materialsis not feasible, keep siding in good condition and replacematerials in poor condition.Windows and Skylights: Windows areone of the weakest parts of a homeand usually break before the structureignites. This allows burning embersand heat to enter the home, whichmay lead to internal ignition. Singlepane windows and large windows areparticularly vulnerable. In high firehazard areas, install windows that areat least double-glazed and that utilizetempered glass for the exterior pane.The type of window frame (wood,aluminum or vinyl) is not as critical.However, vinyl frames should havemetal reinforcements. Closable, solidexterior shutters can provide additionalwindow protection. Keep skylights freeof pine needles leaves and other debris,and remove overhanging branches. Ifskylights are to be placed on steeppitched roofs that face large amountsof nearby fuels (a mature pine tree oranother house), consider using flat onesconstructed of double-pane glass.Built Environment pg.12Vents: Attic, eave and foundation ventsare potential entry points for embers. Allvent openings should be covered with1/8-inch or smaller wire mesh. Consulta design professional to ensure thatadequate ventilation is maintained.Another option is to install emberresistant vents. Do not permanentlycover vents, as they play a critical role inpreventing wood rot.Rain Gutters: Rain gutters trap flying embers. Always keeprain gutters free of leaves, needles and debris. Check andclean them several times during fire season. In some instances,rain gutters can be removed as long as roof runoff water canbe carried away without damaging the house exterior orfoundation, or without causing erosion. Gutter removal mayalso affect erosion control Best Management Practices (BMPs).

Chimneys: Chimney and stovepipeopenings should be screened withan approved spark arrestor cap.Roof: Homes with wood-shake or shingleroofs are much more likely to be destroyedduring a wildfire than homes with fire-resistantroofs. Consider replacing wood-shake orshingle roofs with a Class-A fire-resistanttype (composition, metal or tile). Openingsin roofing materials, such as the open endsof barrel tiles, should be plugged to preventember entry and debris accumulation.Regardless of the type of roof, keep it freeof fallen leaves, needles and branches.Firewood: Firewood stacks should be locatedat least 30 feet from the home. If the stacks arestored uphill from the house, make sure thatburning firewood cannot roll downhill and ignitethe home. Consider using an ember-resistantfirewood cover.Decks: Decks using wood and wood-plastic materialsare often combustible. Keep all deck materials in goodcondition. As an option, consider using fire-resistantrated materials. Routinely remove combustibledebris (pine needles, leaves, twigs and weeds) fromthe gaps between deck boards and under the deck.Enclosing the sides of the deck may reduce this type ofmaintenance, but may result in increased land coveragefor your property and may require a permit. As analternative, enclose the deck sides with 1/4-inch orsmaller wire mesh to prevent debris from accumulatingunderneath. Do not store combustible materials underthe deck.Flammable Items: Keep the porch, deck andother areas of the home free of easily combustiblematerials (baskets, dried flower arrangements,newspapers, pine needles and debris).Property owners. new construction must use approved, fire-resistant materials.For more information, contact your local fire agency.pg.13 Built Environment

Five Steps to Creating an Effective Defensible SpaceThe term defensible space refers to the area between a house and anoncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been managed to reducethe wildfire threat and allow firefighters to safely defend the house.In the event that firefighters are not available, defensible space alsoimproves the likelihood of a home surviving without assistance.Recommended Defensible Space DistanceFortunately for Lake Tahoe Basin homeowners, there are a variety ofresources available to assist them in creating defensible space. Local firedistricts and departments will conduct free defensible space inspections.Advice on integrating defensible space practices with Best ManagementPractices (BMPs) and other landscape management topics can beprovided by the Conservation Districts and Cooperative Extension inconjunction with the Tahoe Regional Planning Agency (TRPA) and fireprofessionals. See Pages 17 and 23 for contact information.Photo courtesy of John CoburnFlat To GentlySloping0-20%ModeratelySteep21-40%Very Steep 40%GrassDry grass andweeds100 feet100 feet100 feetShrubs andWoodlandSagebrush, manzanita and mountainmahogany100 feet200 feet200 feetForest TreesFir and pine. Ifthere’s a substantialshrub understory,use those valuesstated above.100 feet100 feet200 feetStep TwoWithin the recommended Defensible SpaceZone, remove: Dead and dying trees. Dead native and ornamental shrubs.Through proper planning, an effective defensible space can be attractive and controlsoil erosion.REMOVETHEDEADStep OneKNOWYOURDISTANCEThe size of the defensible space is usuallyexpressed as a distance extending outwardfrom the house in all directions. Therecommended distance is not the same forevery home. It varies depending on thedominant vegetation surrounding the homeand steepness of slope. Use the RecommendedDefensible Space Distance table to determinethe right space for your home.Once the recommended distance for defensible space is known, markit by tying strips of cloth or flagging to shrubs. This becomes theDefensible Space Zone.If the Defensible Space Zone exceeds your property boundaries, seekpermission from adjacent landowners before doing work on theirproperty. It is important to note that the effectiveness of the DefensibleSpace Zone improves when entire neighborhoods implement defensiblespace practices. Dead branches. Dried grass, weeds and flowers. Exposed branches from fallen trees that areembedded into the ground and locatedmore than 30 feet from the house. Theembedded tree can be left in place.Regarding fallen needles and leaves: Within 5 feet of the house, remove routinely throughout fire season. From 5 feet to 30 feet of the house, remove every spring by May1. Needles and leaves that fall after the spring removal period canaccumulate on the ground as long as they do not create a firehazard. More than 30 feet from the house, do not allow fallen needles andleaves to exceed a depth of 3 inches.RemoveroutinelyRemove everyspring5 feetMaintain atless than3 inches30 feetNeedle and Leaf RemovalDefensible Space pg.14

Step ThreeCREATESEPARATIONWithin 30 feet of the house, the canopies of individual or smallgroups of several trees should be separated by 10 feet to 30 feet.A continuous tree canopy maintained as previously described isalso an option for this area. Contact your local fire professionals(see Page 23) or TRPA to have your trees evaluated and marked forremoval.Within the Defensible Space Zone, nativetrees and shrubs, (Jeffrey pine, white fir andmanzanita) should not occur in dense stands.Dense stands of trees and shrubs pose asignificant wildfire threat. Thin dense tree andshrub stands to create more space betweenthem.Step Four2xxSagebrush, Manzanita, Huckleberry Oak andOther ShrubsOn flat to gently sloping terrain more than 30 feet from the house,individual shrubs or small clumps of shrubs within the Defensible SpaceZone should be separated from one another by at least twice the heightof the average shrub. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separationdistance should be greater. For example, if the typical shrub height is 2feet, then there should be a separation between shrub branches of atleast 4 feet. For homes located on steeper slopes, the separation distanceshould be greater. Remove shrubs or prune to reduce their height and/ordiameter. See Step Five for shrub management recommendations within30 feet of the house.Forest TreesOn flat to gently sloping terrain more than 30 feet from the house,individual trees or small groups of several trees should be thinned toprovide an average separation between canopies of at least 10 feet. Forhomes located on steeper slopes, the separation distance should begreater.Vegetation that can carry a fire from low-growing plants totaller plants is called ladder fuel. In areas where trees havebeen thinned as per Step Three, lower tree branches should beremoved to a height of at least 10 feet. Shrubsand trees growing under the drip line shouldalso be removed. Irrigated, well-maintainedlawns and flower beds, as well as lowgrowing ground covers can bepresent under the tree’s drip lineas long as they would not allow afire to ignite the tree. Removal oftree branches should not exceedone third of the total tree height.Removing more than this can bedetrimental to tree health. For tipson proper tree pruning, contactyour Cooperative Extension office.Drip line10feetDrip line10 feetLower tree branches should be removed to a height of at least 10 feet.pg.15 Defensible Space

Step FiveMAKE ITLEAN, CLEANAND GREENThere are two goals for the Lean, Clean andGreen Area. The first goal is to eliminate easilyignitable fuels, or kindling, near the house. Thiswill help prevent embers from starting a firein your yard. The second goal is to keep fireintensity low if it does ignite near the house.By proper management of the fuels near thehouse, a fire would not be able to generateenough heat to ignite the home.For most homeowners, the Lean, Cleanand Green Area is also the residential landscape. This area often hasirrigation, is planted with ornamental vegetation and is regularlymaintained. The landscape should be arranged so that vegetationwould not allow a fire to travel rapidly across the area.Lean, Clean and GreenArea TipsWithin the Lean, Clean and Green Area: Remove dead shrubs and trees; dried grass, flowers andweeds; dead branches; and firewood. Remove fallen needles and leaves every spring by May 1. Wood and bark mulches can be used, but not in awidespread manner. If used, these areas should beseparated by ignition-resistant materials, such as irrigatedlawn, clover and flowers or noncombustible materials suchas gravel and rock. Native shrubs should be substantially reduced. Individualspecimens or small groups can be retained as long asthey are kept healthy and vigorous, and pruned to reduceheight and amount. When removing shrubs, leave theroot systems in place. Low-growing native shrubs, such aspinemat manzanita and Mahala mat, can be retained. Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated, activelygrowing herbaceous plants that are recommended forthe Lake Tahoe Basin, such as lawn, clover, flowers, someground covers and succulents. Plant materials that arecured out for the season should be removed. Ornamental evergreen shrubs and trees, such as juniper,mugo pine, Austrian pine and others, should not be usedin this area. Clear all flammable vegetation from within 10 feet of thepropane tank. Remove tree limbs that are within 10 feet of the chimney,house, deck or roof. Remove limbs that are encroaching onpower lines. Create a noncombustible area at least 5 feet widearound the perimeter of the house and any combustibleattachments (decks). See Noncombustible Area Tips in theadjacent column.Defensible Space pg.16The area immediately adjacent to a house is of critical importance tohouse survival during a wildfire. It should consist of noncombustiblelandscape materials and ignition-resistant, low-volume plants. Withinthis area: Remove dead shrubs and trees; dried grass, flowers and weeds;dead branches; and firewood. Remove fallen needles and leaves. Do not use wood and bark mulches. Do not use wood landscape timbers or boards. Remove flammable shrubs and trees. This includes native plants(big sagebrush, bitterbrush, greenleaf manzanita, snowbrush,rabbitbrush, huckleberry oak, pine and fir) and ornamental plants(juniper, mugo pine, arborvitae, scotch broom and large exoticgrasses). When removing plants, leave their root systems in place. Noncombustible landscape materials, such as gravel, rock andbrick, are acceptable. Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated, herbaceousplants that are recommended for the Lake Tahoe Basin, such aslawn, clover, flowers, some ground covers and succulents. Use low-growing (less than 18 inches tall), irrigated deciduousshrubs recommended for the Lake Tahoe Basin as individualspecimens or in small groups. Prune these shrubs to removebranches in contact with the ground and sides of the house. Do not plant shrubs under first-story windows, under soffit vents,in front of foundation vents, or in corners. Trellises used in this area should be made of noncombustiblematerials.MaintenanceMaintaining a defensible space is an ongoing activity. Plants grow back,and flammable vegetation needs to be routinely removed and disposedof properly. Before each fire season, re-evaluate your property usingthe previous five steps and implement the necessary defensible spacerecommendations.Photo courtesy of University of Nevada Cooperative Extension Ornamental, deciduous trees and shrubs can be used asspecimens or in small groups. They should be irrigated,kept healthy and vigorous, and free of dead leaves andwood. Deciduous trees should be placed so that theirmature canopy can be easily maintained at a distance ofat least 10 feet from other trees and the house. Shorterdeciduous shrubs are preferred.Noncombustible Area TipsLittle Green Gas CansFirefighters often refer to ornamentaljunipers as little green gas cans. Duringa wildfire involving homes, embers cansmolder undetected under ornamentaljunipers. The junipers can then igniteand burn intensely after firefightershave left the area. Planting ornamentaljunipers next to your house is never agood idea. Keep these little green gascans at least 30 feet from the house orreplace them with low-growing deciduous shrubs, herbaceous flowers, rockmulches and hard surfaces.

TRPA Promotes Defensible SpaceThere are some popular myths about TRPA and wildfire safety. Defen

the 1870s, Tahoe's forests and the occurrence of fire started to change. Much of the Lake Tahoe Basin is considered a "fire environment." It contains flammable vegetation and a climate to support fire. Fire is a natural process in the Lake Tahoe Basin, and many of the plants growing here have adaptations to survive and thrive in the .

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