A Magazine About Acadia National Park And Surrounding .
Summer 2006Volume 11 No. 1A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities
Purchase Your Park Pass!Whether walking, driving, or skiing through the park, all must pay the entrance fee.The Acadia National Park 20 weekly pass ( 10 in the shoulderseasons) and 40 annual pass are available at the followinglocations in Maine:Nicole TaliaferroYEAR-ROUNDACADIA NATIONAL PARK HEADQUARTERS(on the Eagle Lake Road/Rte. 233 in Bar Harbor)MAY – NOVEMBERHULLS COVE VISITOR CENTERSAND BEACH ENTRANCE STATIONISLAND EXPLORER/ACADIA NATIONAL PARKINFORMATION CENTERSEAWALL CAMPGROUNDBLACKWOODS CAMPGROUNDPark pass fees make possible vital maintenance projects in Acadia.
Chairman’s LetterINTRODUCING OUR NEW PRESIDENTIt is always a pleasure to report to you,the members of Friends of Acadia, onimportant changes and progress in ourorganization. I have something notable toshare with you, now—good news aboutFOA’s new president.On February 28, Ken Olson stepped downas president. Ken set a very high standard ofperformance during his decade at the FOAhelm. With his standard of excellence inmind, the executive committee and the searchcommittee are pleased to announce the selection of John C. Courtin as the next presidentof Friends of Acadia.John begins his work with FOA on June1st. He brings a wealth of talent and diverseexperience to the president’s role along witha special love of Acadia. We feel very fortunate that he is joining us at FOA and lookforward to his expert leadership of this verydynamic organization. Since February, whilewrapping up his other projects, John has beenassisting FOA as a part-time consultant andworking in concert with Acting Director andlong-time Stewardship Director MarlaO’Bryrne. We certainly feel that he is alreadyan integral part of our team.Outdoorsman, mountain climber, lawyer,educator, preservationist, and devoted familyman, John is a proven nonprofit executive. Hehas led two nonprofit organizations as CEO inhis career, most recently serving as executivedirector of one of America’s most notable FrankLloyd Wright restoration projects.In 1992, John led a group of other preservation-minded citizens to form the MartinHouse Restoration Corporation. Its missionhas been to restore Frank Lloyd Wright’s mostimportant early career masterpiece—theDarwin Martin House in Buffalo, New York.After laboring on this project for six years asa founding board member, John gave up hislaw practice in 1998 to serve as full-time CEOof the organization. Under John’s leadership, more than 30 million was raised torestore this long neglected National HistoricLandmark. In addition to acquiring andrestoring the three Wright-designed residences that are part of the D.D. Martin estateand reassembling its historic grounds, John’sproject also included reconstruction of threeFriends of Acadia Journalother major Wright-designed buildings thatwere demolished on the site decades ago.In connection with the Martin House project, John has worked closely with elected officials at all levels and with state and federalrepresentatives, including National ParkService officials in Washington and across thecountry. He has also interacted with thousandsof donors and community-minded citizens.Before his children were born, John wasdeeply committed to work at the NationalOutdoor Leadership School, headquarteredin Lander, Wyoming. He became involvedin NOLS first as a student and later as aNOLS trustee and secretary. While a trustee,he was the organizer of NOLS’ first annualfund. This project led a few years later to avery successful multi-million dollar capitalcampaign. Those campaign dollars underpin NOLS’ core mission of serving as thenation’s premier teacher of outdoor wilderness skills and leadership.John served as executive director of theGeorgetown University Alumni Associationfrom 1984 to 1990. He earned both his B.S.and J.D. degrees from Georgetown, where hewas also varsity rowing coach in the 1970s.John practiced law in Washington, D.C. andBuffalo between eras heading nonprofitorganizations. In addition, he has been anactive fundraiser for Phillips Exeter Academy.John and his wife, Sharon, have three children—a son who heads to Princeton this falland two daughters, 15 and 14, who are students at Phillips Exeter Academy. Like John,his family members have a deep love of theoutdoors. Among many other family adventures, they have climbed 31 of the 46 HighPeaks of the Adirondacks. The Courtins havealready begun their exploration of Acadia’smountains, trails, and carriage roads. Weenthusiastically welcome them to Friends ofAcadia and look forward to sharing newadventures and our love of the park with eachof them. Dianna Emory, John C. Courtin, and Ken Olson atAcadia National Park Headquarters.“Ken Olson set a very highstandard of performanceduring his decade at FOA.With his standard of excellence in mind, we are pleasedto announce the selection ofJohn C. Courtin as the nextpresident of Friends ofAcadia.”— Dianna K. EmorySummer 20061
BOARD OF DIRECTORSDianna K. Emory, ChairJoseph Murphy, Vice ChairEdward L. Samek, TreasurerJeannine Ross, SecretaryJeff CharlandGail CookJohn FassakSheldon F. Goldthwait Jr.H. Lee JuddDeborah LashLinda W. LewisEdward LipkinH. Stanley MacDonaldElizabeth MartinezJulia MerckHeather MitchellLili PewMichael SiklosiHoward SolomonSherry StreeterEleanor SullivanAnn Staples WaldronDick WolfBill ZoellickSummer 2006Volume 11 No. 1A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding CommunitiesHONORARY TRUSTEESEleanor AmesRobert and Anne BassEdward McCormick BlairCurtis and Patricia BlakeRobert and Sylvia BlakeFrederic A. Bourke Jr.Tristram and Ruth ColketShelby and Gale DavisNathaniel R. FentonFrances FitzgeraldNeva GoodwinEileen and Paul GrowaldPolly and John GuthPaul HaertelBurnham LitchfieldGerrish and Phoebe MillikenGeorge J. MitchellJanneke NeilsonNancy NimickJack PerkinsNancy PyneLouis RabineauNathaniel P. ReedDavid RockefellerPatricia ScullErwin SouleDiana Davis SpencerDonald and Beth StrausTRUSTEE EMERITUSW. Kent OlsonCharles R. Tyson Jr.FRIENDS OF ACADIA STAFFMike Alley, Senior Field Crew LeaderTheresa Begley, Development AssociateSharon Broom, Development OfficerSheree Castonguay, Secretary to the PresidentStephanie Clement, Conservation DirectorJohn C. Courtin, PresidentLisa Horsch, Director of DevelopmentDiana R. McDowell, Director of OperationsMarla Stellpflug O’Byrne, Stewardship DirectorCliff Olson, Field Crew LeaderMike Staggs, Administrative Assistant2Summer 2006FEATURE ARTICLES7 The Most Beautiful Island in AmericaNed JohnstonAn explorer finds world-class adventures—and paradise—at home.11 Opportunities in AcadiaGinny ReamsA field day for hardy volunteers, and more.12 I Biked 18.9 Miles in Acadia National ParkNina DavenportA nine-year-old bicyclist hits the heights in Acadia.13 John D. Rockefeller Jr.Lisa HorschA brief history of the legacy of this Acadia founder.ACTIVITIES/HIGHLIGHTS17 Family Fun at Little Long Pond18 Updates22 Book ReviewsDEPARTMENTS1 Chairman’s Letter Introducing Our New PresidentDianna K. Emory3 President’s Column Looking ForwardJohn C. Courtin5 Superintendent’s View Three Years and ChangeSheridan Steele6 Poem Map Lichen8 Special People Barbara Cole, Anne Kozak, and Sue Leiter14 Poem Michigan Landscape23 Friends of Schoodic Artists in ResidencePhilip Dane LevinLisa HorschJane OlmstedGarry Levin
President’s ColumnIt is a distinct honor to have the opportunity to serve as the new president ofFriends of Acadia. As you—our members—and I commence our conversationacross time and place through this venerableFriends of Acadia Journal, I can’t help but beginby speaking from the heart—Acadia NationalPark is a stunningly beautiful place. It takesmy breath away, every time. Acadia is worthy of our very best efforts to protect it.If you care deeply about Acadia and areconcerned about its future, then I look forward to meeting you and to knowing you. Iwant to listen to your ideas and to understand your concerns for the park and itssurround. I welcome your advice, andencourage you to write to me. For I seek yourgood ideas and your thoughtful advice onwhat you regard as the key challenges, needs,and priorities that should shape the futureaction agenda for Friends.Friends of Acadia is dedicated to preserving and protecting the outstanding natural beauty, ecological vitality, and culturaldistinctiveness of Acadia National Park andits surrounding communities. And that is allthat we do. We are narrowly and intentlyfocused on our core mission.If Acadia is your special place in theworld, then Friends of Acadia should rankvery high among the organizations you support, for it exists to serve as a vehicle that youcan join with other similarly minded citizensto help effect positive change in and aroundthis magnificent park. Friends of Acadia isthe voice of the friends and keepers of Acadia.And a strong, steady voice can make a greatdifference.Yes, it is true that Acadia belongs toAmerica. But in many ways, Acadia especiallybelongs to those who care deeply about it,to those who know it best. They know itsneeds and are its most effective defenders. Allof America depends on those who know itbest to provide direct support to enhance thepark and to take forceful action as needed.That happens every day through Friends ofAcadia, this year celebrating its 20th anniversary in service to Acadia National Park.Simply put, in the years to come, I shallbe honored to know you and honored towork side by side with you and with otherPeter TraversLOOKING FORWARDfriends of Acadia National Park to help securethe best possible future for this stunninglybeautiful place. Thank you. —John C. CourtinA SUCCESSOR’S EARLY REFLECTIONS It’s not so easy to walk in the footstepsof a “living legend.” Everywhere I gothere is tangible evidence of Ken Olson’sinnumerable accomplishments in andaround Acadia National Park.Everyone with whom I speak seems towant to share a “Ken Olson story”—at theheart of each are many generous words ofprofound respect for all that Ken has donefor Acadia over the last decade. Especially,there is unbounded praise for the way hedid his job, for the ethos Ken engenderedaround himself through his labors, an ethoshe inspired in all those who worked withhim to care deeply about the outdoors.Folks tell me how passionate Ken wasabout the natural environment and this glo-Friends of Acadia Journalrious national park. They tell me how committed Ken was to the unique mission ofFriends of Acadia and of his unwaveringdedication to Acadia. I’ve witnessed this pronounced attribute first hand.Ken Olson was like a force of nature—rolling in from the sea, sweeping down fromthe high hills and across the meadows, shaping and sculpting the place for the better,leaving a visible legacy—and even howlinga bit from time to time in response to threatsto the park or its federal funding. FOAshould provide “the margin of excellence”for the park, Ken would say. He was focusedon that noble goal.When I make the journey north into thisbeautiful region of Maine, often startingfrom New Hampshire or other moresoutherly places, I always smile when I passthe first warning sign along the highway thatsays, “Moose Crossing.” You know you’regetting close!Maybe there should be another sign,near Thompson Island, warning potentialpark-despoilers to stay away, saying that“You’re Entering ‘Ken Olson Country’.”Thank you, Ken, for being an effective protector, for leaving Friends of Acadia in suchgreat good shape, and for all that you havedone for Acadia National Park.—John Courtin,president of Friends of AcadiaSummer 20063
Notes from FriendsFinding CynthiaThanks to your Journal article [“SmallWorlds of Glory,” Fall 2005], I becamefamiliar with Cynthia Thayer’s work.Read all three of her novels inJanuary.can’t wait for more.—Linda PackardBangor, MaineLiving by BusI am 82 years old. I stopped driving inJanuary [2005] after an unfortunate accident when I skidded on black ice, totaling my car. Thanks to DowneastTransportation and the Island Explorerbus I have been able to manage my lifevery well without a car. I take control ofnecessities like food shopping. I walk andhike and get into the park with ease. Ihave particularly used and enjoyed theIsland Explorer because it has allowedme to get into the park where I can walk,swim, hike, and climb the mountains asI always have in the past so essentialto keeping fit with my Golden Retriever,Sophie. The drivers are wonderful tous .I would hope [the Island Explorer]could warrant an extended or even yearround system—even if there were to bea fee .Many thanks to Friends of Acadiaand of course L.L. Bean.—Dorothy Zucker and SophieBar Harbor, MaineFourth Graders in AcadiaWe received thank you letters from the 4thgrade students at Trenton ElementarySchool, who took a field trip last Novemberto volunteer in Acadia, raking along thecarriage roads. If we had room, every letterwould be printed here, but following are acouple of the letters and one of manydrawings from the day. —EdThank you for helping us with raking and cleaning out the carriageroads. It was so fun. The leaves werescattered all over the roads .I hada fantastic time.—BrockThank you for letting us help on thecarriage roads. I had a great time,especially when I got to jump in theleaf piles. It didn’t seem likework .I even found a salamander.—Anna AshmoreThank you for letting us come andclean Acadia National Park. I had asuperb time, especially when I heldthe salamander and when everyonedumped all the leaves on me!—Meghan CataneseThank you so much for inviting usto come to Acadia National Park toclean up. My favorite part wasjumping in the leaves. Jenna measured the whole length that weraked, 903 feet long. I had a lot offun. I loved raking and dumping allof those leaves. I would gladly loveto come back again and rake leavesand pick up the litter.—Brooke MarshallSummer 2006Volume 11 No.1A Magazine about Acadia National Parkand Surrounding CommunitiesFriends of Acadia is a private, nonprofitorganization dedicated to preservingand protecting the outstanding naturalbeauty, ecological vitality, and culturaldistinctiveness of Acadia National Parkand the surrounding communities, andthereby ensuring a high quality experiencefor visitors and residents.The Journal is published three times a year.Submissions are welcome.Opinions expressed are the authors’.You may write us at43 Cottage Street / PO Box 45Bar Harbor, Maine 04609or contact us at207 288-33401 800 625-0321www.friendsofacadia.orgemail: info@friendsofacadia.orgEDITORMarla Stellpflug O’ByrnePOETRY EDITORPhilip Dane LevinDESIGNPackard Judd KayePRINTINGPenmor LithographersPUBLISHERFriends of AcadiaSkidoo TrailCover photographs by Tom BlagdenJenna, Brooke, Kristen, and Todd at work in Acadia. (Artist, Brooke Marshall.)4Summer 2006This Journal is printed on chlorine-process free, recycled,and recyclable stock using soy-based ink.Friends of Acadia Journal
Superintendent’s ViewIt seems impossible that it has been morethan three years now since Barb and Iarrived in Bar Harbor and Acadia NationalPark. It is interesting to think about the manythings that have changed during the past,very fast, three years—some for the betterand some not.Just in that short time period, I have seenmany new houses, subdivisions, and roadsbuilt on Mount Desert Island. Although realestate price increases have recently slowedon the island, the long-range trend is stillupward, and development pressures continue to mount. Early in my tenure as superintendent, I identified land protection insideAcadia’s boundaries as my highest prioritybecause land is the very essence of anynational park. It is the land that contains thenatural and cultural resources that peoplecome to enjoy. Over the last year or so,Acadia has entered into a unique new partnership with Friends of Acadia, Maine CoastHeritage Trust, and private donors to actively buy available properties within the parkand “fill in the holes.” Already, several keytracts of nearly 200 acres have been protected. Much more remains to be done, butthis is solid progress despite a significantdownward trend in Congressional appropriations for this purpose. Once again, private individuals are stepping up to continue the long-standing role of private philanthropy here at Acadia.Also of concern are 3,500 acres on theSchoodic Peninsula immediately adjacent toAcadia. During the past two years, the owners have hired consultants and started theprocess to develop this very significant pieceof land. A short hike to the overlook onSchoodic Head affords a spectacular view ofthe land involved and makes clear that weneed to work hard to save this area fromincompatible development. Partners areworking to help protect the park experience from negative impacts caused by thebiggest single threat to Acadia.Many changes are occurring at the formernavy base, now called the SchoodicEducation and Research Center. The number of participants in park programs at SERCFriends of Acadia Journalis increasing. With Acadia Partners forScience and Learning, we are about to beginconstruction that will convert the commissary into a state-of-the-art auditorium andclassroom building. We are also convertingthe former bowling alley into an overnight“hostel.” In addition, we are makingimprovements to the Schooner Club and tothe apartments. These changes will greatlyimprove the marketability of SERC and helpus advance science and resource educationrelated to Acadia and the entire National ParkSystem.For the past three years, budget pressurehas continued to present big challenges to allof us here at Acadia. Even with increasingbudgets, we are not able to provide the samelevel of service as we have in preceding years.As cost increases rise faster than budgets, thisloss of buying power accumulates more eachyear, resulting in eleven vacant permanentpositions at Acadia. Thanks to volunteers,the carriage road and hiking trail endowments, and our dedicated employees, wehave been able to maintain most seasonaloperations, but further erosion will likelyforce us into making even harder choices inthe years ahead.As I approach my fourth summer atAcadia, I must deal with another bigchange—Ken Olson’s retirement. Ken provided outstanding leadership, makingFriends of Acadia one of the best park“friends” groups in the nation. We will all misshim, but we are also eager to welcome JohnCourtin as the new president. I am confidentthat John will be another great leader and takeFriends of Acadia to new heights of success.Despite all of these changes, our missionremains the same: to protect the many natural and cultural resources contained in Acadiaand make them available for public use andenjoyment. Thanks to the park staff, ourmany volunteers, and key partners likeFriends of Acadia, Acadia Partners for Scienceand Learning, Maine Coast Heritage Trust,and our outstanding private donors, we aredetermined to achieve our mission and maintain a high-quality visitor experience for allwho come to enjoy this very special place. Peter TraversTHREE YEARS AND CHANGE“A short hike to the overlookon Schoodic Head affords aspectacular view and makes itclear that we need to workhard to save this area fromincompatible development.”— Sheridan SteeleSummer 20065
PoemIN MEMORIAMmap lichenWe gratefully acknowledge giftsreceived in memory of:Shirley AllisonDavid and Kitzi CrofootMichael Curlutusnow lichen can frostwhole patches of a mountainsidein the heat of augustand reindeer mosspropel the herds of caribouacross the northern tundraDonald P. DoolittleMichelle DunbarCordelia GabbCarol Ann KatzJoseph W. KelleyFrieda Klopfensteinit is map lichenthat causes us to slipin the mountainsafter a rainreminding us of the thirstit too has for waterSally LutyensChristopher MaierBobby MickschutzBetty MeiklejohnFrancis ParkmanDavid L. RabascaGordon SmithIN NOMINEat the narrowing of choices therebetween a point of graniteand the skyit spreads its chartsgray-green on blackand we
An explorer finds world-class adventures—and paradise—at home. 11 Opportunities in Acadia Ginny Reams A field day for hardy volunteers, and more. 12 I Biked 18.9 Miles in Acadia National Park Nina Davenport A nine-year-old bicyclist hits the heights in Acadia. 13 John D. Rockefeller
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